Higashiyoshino to Tokushima

A very grey morning, often misty and rain gear on and off fairly often. But still so much to see has we headed down valley all day to Wakayama.

Pleased to see our campground in the daylight – our shelter kept us dry, even if few of our wet clothes dried out.

Found the most important Japanese shrine to a water god shortly after departing.

Beautiful clear rivers, as so often.

One of the most-modified kei trucks I spotted on our trip.

Through another town not hiding the decay.

We then hit a lot of wood processing towns and mills – some small, some not-so.

Impressive number of slabs.

Often very quiet riding on the other side of the river from the main road.

We supposed these lengths were supposed to be drying, but probably not much in this humidity. Better than in the forest though.

Baited bear trap – thankfully didn’t see any bears, having given our bear spray away some days before.

Wee carport for a wee car.

Just quick enough to snap one of the deer bounding across the road – hadn’t seen any for a while, but Rachel had heard some in the night.

Considering all the mills we saw, this was the only log yard we noticed – didn’t look big enough to keep all the mills supplied.

So neat!

Probably took this video for my nephew:

Radioactive?

A factory open to the street was busy making disposable chopsticks using a variety of machines. Fascinating to watch the process, and we were given a pair each. I’ve kept mine, somewhere, as a good reminder of the scores of similar ones we were given at konbinis and eateries.

Cycle route, and later trail, most of the way into Wakayama – the most organised one yet.

Even the garbage trucks are pleasant – finally captured one of the many chimed ones driving past.

Surprised to see this, having visited a fair few of the outdoor gear stores – hadn’t heard there was a guest house, maybe more than one.

The old town of Gojo was nice, despite not having banished the utility cables as towns on the Nakasendo have; a difference here being that the upper stories were plastered, rather than wooden.

Kept seeing Mitsubishi Jeeps today, hadn’t seen any until this day, didn’t see any more. Odd.

We had a look around a doctor’s house, preserved as it was in the 1960s – before finding local refreshments down the street.

Unsure what was going on here.

Whatever it was, was mildly alarming.

Having booked a ferry from Wakayam over to Shikoku (our next island, very much anticipated!), we had to make faster time on the cycle trail than our usual pace. Not having to deal with traffic certainly helped.

Typical driving range.

Couple of months early, but one assumes we could have stayed here if we wanted the experience.

But all the Santas were a little offputting.

Most concerted effort to tame rampant spring growth that we saw – impressive remote controlled squat lawn mowers.

They certainly tidied things up.

Big hairpins on the trail; alas our pace wasn’t such to make them too exciting.

From the other side of the river, Wakayama looked a nice city and I’d have liked to spend some time there – but we had a ferry to catch.

I spied a blast furnace or two, and got distracted.

That bridge was surprisingly steep on a loaded bike.

But it gave good views of a chemical plant!

A different style ferry to the usual monohull.

Bikes first on again.

Inadvertently we upgraded our tickets to the lounge at the bow. Thankfully we had it to ourselves, as after a couple of damp days our socks were ripe.

Goodbye to Honshu, for now, a thoroughly enjoyable four weeks where I appreciated older Japanese history and buildings. Arriving in Tokushima after dark, we had an easy five kilometres to ride to a hotel – a good chance to dry some things out.

Ise

A morning to linger in our refuge from last night’s downpour. Waiting for things to dry out a bit, both our clothes and the outside world, it seems we had time to make French toast.

Nice change from camp museli and yoghurt.

It sounded like Ise was quite a historic town with enough to keep us busy on a rainy day – so we booked a hostel in the centre, so that we could walk, rather than lug loaded bikes, around in the rain. Eventually we got outside and took an indirect route to the hostel – first heading for the coast and one of the most sacred sites of Shintu.

But I spied a big woodworking workshop on the way, so got a bit distracted.

Covers showing the signs of the continuing rain.

There seemed to be some large formal event going on here,

but mostly I liked the trees.

We found the sacred wedded rocks,

joined by a hand-woven ten centimetre rope.

Frogs seemed to be a common theme among many of the numerous shrines.

Giant clam shells!

Along the sea wall we turned and rode for city centre, eventually having to negotiate some large tsunami-blocking gates to get off it and head through the suburbs a damp and measly six kilometres to the hostel in the historic part of the the city, another Kawasaki.

Starting in the sixteenth century, due to its useful location on both land and sea routes, the area became an important trading location – having the sacred shrine of Ise Jungu in town also helped. Becoming “Ise’s kitchen”, rice, sugar, salt, liquor were the main foodstuffs traded. Pleasingly, a lot of the old trading warehouses and premises along the Setagawa river still stand, an enjoyable outing – especially looking at the various embellishments on the tile roofs.

Our hostel as a starter for ten.

Ise is also famous for its udon dishes; once again we found a restaurant (somewhat stuck in the Showa era, as often) run by an elderly couple and were not disappointed.

Our wanderings in the drizzle continued.

Not so old, but rusted out corrugated steel…

Again.

Away from the Kawasaki area of town, things looked a little drab.

We made our way to the Ise Jungu area. No cameras, or even walking through, allowed at the main buildings – so a more hushed and serene – a nice change.

At the museum, in the same general area, we happened across a large crowd watching an enthusiastic drumming routine  – somewhat invigorating on a fairly low energy day.

Unsure if this is a stage and if so, how performers get to it with dry feet.

After some time chilling at the hostel, we headed out for dinner. Rachel, being far more versed in Japanese dishes from her multiple previous visits, wanted a good okonomiyaki meal. Having little idea what that was, I was happy to go along and find out. We ended up in a small otherwise deserted restaurant in a small otherwise deserted alley.

There were some good signs though.

Return of the tall, faded pink, coin phone.

A slightly modernised version of the typical menu display.

Turns out okonomiyaki is a savoury pancake dish cooked on the hot plate set in the table – very tasty and you get a little cooking show too.

Nice way to end a quiet day of sightseeing and little riding.

Kugawai to Ise

Away from our secluded campground to the outskirts of Kuwagai and some buildings that caught our eye before quiet lanes approaching and then skirting Toyokawa.

Not quite matching.

Colour! Always pleased to see some, especially missing the colourful buildings of Mongolia.

Poor, sweating telephone.

Seemed a proliferation of different covers to snap around Toyokawa – much pausing, more enjoyable than all the traffic lights.

Unsure how this creature fight fires…

Curious firefighting method.

Unfortunately we had to head into Toyohashi – still looking for a cursed SRAM chain for Rachel’s bike, this time at a bike shop recommended back in Matsumoto. But we were early, so had a chance to look around another restored castle – this one had an interesting historical display (that we could understand).

With still more time up our sleeves, we happened across a cafe with better tea service than we were used to! Any feelings of disgust at two smelly bikepackers were well disguised – as expected in Japan.

As interesting as the bike shop was, when it finally opened, it was another failure in replacing the pesky chain. We did however give our bear spray to the owner, nice to not need or carry that after two months.

Suburbia for a while until we finally broke through the chain of urbanisation and industrialisation and headed towards the Pacific.

Tens of kilometres of market gardens and glasshouses was a welcome change – mostly very quiet lanes amongst them.

At Akabane we joined the Pacific Cycling Road, after a michi no eki stop for some delicious local figs.

The cycle trail along the coast was mostly good, helped by a friendly easterly, spots were popular with surfers.

Some interesting clouds backed up the rain forecast for late in our day.

Sometimes the route would narrow and become overgrown, used to this by now.

Other times, it would inexplicably turn into steep staircases.

But still a cycling road, apparently.

Across the mouth of Ise Bay, as we approached the end of the spit and Irago – where we would board a ferry to Ise, avoiding Nagoya.

Approaching Irago, successfully avoiding the town – the port just behind the closest building.

Made it in plenty of time for the ferry, although we can’t claim to have ridden much of this PCR – interesting to see such a sign indicating a recognised route…

Quite a ferry for six cars and two bikes!

Needless to say, we had plenty of space to ourselves for the short (one hour) sailing.

Tumbleweeds – although I was more taken with the clouds than the parking lot.

Disembarking at dusk, there was light drizzle for the start of the short ride to the outskirts of Ise. In light of the forecast we’d booked an apartment. Our decision was vindicated as the rain got heavier and the night roads dicier, before long we were drenched in an absolute downpour and dealing with surface flooding. Thankfully it was still warm as only once did I get covered in excessive splashing from a passing truck. Very pleased to get dinner from a konbini and take it to our accommodation to dry off and eat. An entertaining end to an otherwise flat and easy day.

Nakatsugawa to Kuwagai

Business hotel buffet breakfast another unusual one, but plenty of fuel for cycling. Started off cooler as it took a while to clear the suburbs of the city, just small rice fields between the houses before eventually climbing on quiet forest roads.

Japanese bagpipes?

Through many municipalities today – so many different covers…

Was quite taken with this cutting’s mossy retaining wall – green and tessellations, two favourites.

Tiny deserted roads for a bit.

A roundabout!! The only one I remember for the trip. Welcome on this day as we stopped at far too many traffic lights trying to get through the sprawl towards the south coast.

Just the one completely charming, well-preserved village today.

A stone building, not quite as rare as a roundabout – but almost.

First generation Jimny, also a rare sight.

After the lumpy hills, we finally got a nice long downhill towards Toyota city – which we skirted.

Mildly alarming, long time since we’d thought about pulling the bear spray out.

Yet more tunnel building.

Followed a river for a fair while, pleasingly there was a quiet road on one side of the river for us to follow.

Due to power line work we had to follow a detour five kilometres further into the boonies.

Stopping for first lunch on a grassy bank of the river, we were entertained watching anglers wade across from the opposite bank.

Ninety minutes later on the edge of the city, time for second lunch at a cafe, once again run by an elderly couple.

Again, Rachel orders doorstop toast; or perhaps it’s jaw-dislocating toast.

Pleasant setting, although soon time for us to leave the river.

It got a bit lumpy as we did so, having to climb to the level of that bridge – or so it felt as the afternoon was by now in the thirties again. That took us as close as we got to the city centre – I’d have quite liked to pop in and see Toyota headquarters or a museum, but oh well.

In Okazaki we could no longer stay on the border between urban and rural, having to go through the city – getting a bit tiresome with all the stops at lights, but only an hour to go.

They did have vibrant covers to distract us though.

Hadn’t seen much bamboo at all, I had thought we’d see more.

Having got dinner supplies at a konbini on the edge of town, a hundred and fifty metre climb beside a reservoir took us to another deserted campground. Surrounded by trees and with hand pumps for the water, it was a bit different. Cooking and eating on big concrete steps above a field was reminiscent of camping on the shore way back in Hokkaido, but at least this time there was ample grass to pitch our tents. Quite a big day for this trip, both in distance and climbing – unsure how Rachel kept soldiering on suffering with the cold I’d kindly passed on.

Biking to go places, going places to bike.