Mystery Lake

Schedules, weather and acceptance of long driving distances finally coincided for a well overdue catch-up and even more overdue overnight outing. From the Potts River trailhead, we set off up and across the river as a hot, sunny and still afternoon began.

Car park view not shabby.

Hudson inspecting the Potts while I try to remember which valley is the Havelock and which is the Clyde at the top of the Rangitata.

Katie soaking Hudson’s cooling jacket – hard work being an active black dog on such days.

After crossing the river a couple of times, we climbed up the gully right of centre (above) and followed the plateau upstream (right to left).

Occasionally Hudson wasn’t off covering far more ground than we were; looking back down to the Rangitata.

One of the bigger scour outs down to the Potts.

Hot going, so the occasional swamp provided cooling opportunities for some.

Having climbed to the high point, we turned east away from the Potts and Mystery Lake came into view – so named, one assumes, as it’s hidden from across the valley by some small hills.

Less mysterious when you’re right next to it.

Only mid-afternoon and still rather hot, once the tents were up there was plenty of time for a dip in the cool water. With yet more time up our sleeves we headed up through the large tussocks and some swampy slopes (these never make much sense) to see what’s at the top of the Dogs Range; a dog, on this occasion.

Spot the tents.

Our exit route for the following day.

Down to Boundary Creek – on the other side of the range from Mystery Lake.

East to Mt Somers Range.

Heading back to camp for dinner, the hills that obscure Mystery Lake obvious here. Behind that, in the shade, the other side of the Potts – roughly showing our route up.

The wind at camp was fickle, but occasionally it dropped – conveniently at sunset.

Arrowsmith Range was a regular point of interest on the horizon throughout the weekend.

Preparing for another sunny day.

But pleasingly we were in the shade of some steep hills for the first five kilometres out, before we joined the Te Araroa trail and turned south-east.

Heading for the nearest extent of the gravel river bed, unfortunately not directly.

I’d ridden this section of the Te Araroa trail four years before and was pleased be walking down the switchbacks instead of pushing or carrying a lightly loaded bike up it.

Over to Lake Clearwater and its curious village of off-grid holiday homes. Mt Harper on left.

We had near ten kilometres of rather flat walking, while still hot and sunny a stiff headwind did take the edge off the temperature. This section was much fun to ride, not quite so on foot. Not bad, but not correspondingly exhilirating.

Hudson ever hopeful, little did he know that I’d only just brought enough food for myself.

Back above the Potts again. Getting close now, thankfully as my feet starting to let me know it’s a long time since I’ve walked seventeen kilometres in a day, and over thirty in a twenty-four-ish hours.

Thanks Katie for an excellent little outing, and the photos that I’m in.

Gillane Hot Springs to Bat-Ulzii

A cool morning greeted us outside our tents, the long wildflowers still sodden from overnight rain. Pretty wet by the time we’d packed up and negotiated the bog below the hot springs.

Did manage to not get any wetter negotiating these slippery little bridges.

Having backtracked to the stupa we visited, down the left of the river we went trying to find a suitable crossing point.

We did get safely across, but even then the best route up to the next pass was not as apparent as earlier in the trip. Normal transmission resumed and the last part of the climb over this pass got steep enough to have us pushing and warming up a little – but the warmth quickly disappeared on the ride down to the next river.

I even stopped to put some thicker gloves and extra layers on, but that was somewhat negated by falling in a rocky creek as we started to parallel the river!

Over that river, the initial gradual climb and cloud breaking up did help to warm us as lunch approached. The group of Malaysian tourists in a large convoy of new LandCruisers found us quite the spectacle – to my bemusement.

This is completely normal, surely?

Pushing again from here as the surface got slippy and steep.

No pushing down there.

Having crossed that basin, the exit was strangely twisty and not just straight up.

More walking though.

Probably our last time through two thousand metres altitude on the trip, soon dropping to the Orkhon Valley.

A fun descent it was too, strange to see a permanent building out in these parts.

Starting to look for a campsite before the Orkhon, we didn’t really have quite enough supplies so headed for the bridge (no fording this river).

Milling around a small ger collection on a busy road over the bridge, we were kindly gifted some beers by a passing motorist – somehow they survived the bumpy lava strewn ride into town ten kilometres away. Town, Bat-Ulzii, seemed a bit quiet but we found food at a place that doubled as one of the many Kapoake (replace the p) places we’d seen. While we were too early for a spot of singing, somehow this turned out to be one of the, if not the, best meals we had on the road – I’m still unsure what exactly it was though.

While we ate, an intense dust storm blew up from the north. Lingering over our meals longer, it finally eased and a nice campsite south of town was found to end one of our longer days.

Tsetserleg to Gillane Hot Springs

A later start doing chores before leaving town for another week in the hills. A kind family paid for our stove petrol at a gas station, as well as loading us up with candy. Some curious old factories on the way out, before crossing a river and up a short pass – where we met some 4WD overlanders from Fairfield that had hired bikes for the day.

Strangely the climb out of the next valley was both deserted (no gers or grazing animals) and a mellow gradient that didn’t kick at the pass. Free of herds, the wildflowers were plentiful.

Did get some lunch time spectators though, later over the pass two boys on a motorbike were looking for these horses.

Winter stock shelter and yards.

Getting to the pass, briefly back at 2000 m.

Off the pass, the gradient became steeper. With the trees, wildflowers and lovely stretch of singletrack it was feeling a bit like the Canadian Rockies.

It had been a while since we’d had a boggy little push…

We sidled above the valley floor trying to find the best path for the route that had been described to us.

Small diversion, from our overnight diversion, to a highpoint with views of three rivers meeting.

Power lines going in.

We headed up that way to try and find the little visited hot springs Murray from Fairfield had told us about.

Twas only seven kilometres off our route to the Orkhon Valley to find the hot springs. Another boggy section guarded a nice sheltered campsite. Well, we still got wet from the afternoon thunderstorm – but we had our tents up by then and it passed quickly enough.

A family camping for a couple of weeks came to visit for a bit; communication somewhat easier than usual.

Fairly standard Mongolian camping dinner – fried onions, carrots and capsicum with noodles and some sort of unknown meat.

Tsetserleg

A quiet rest day in Tsetserleg. Morning walk to and up an impressive staircase to some statues and a small temple. I was more interested in the view of streets and various buildings – still enjoying the colourful Mongolia palette for houses. Few ruins from Soviet times too. I left the others to check out a museum while I sought a beard and haircut – cheapest one I’ve ever paid for, before a luxurious nap.

Fun times continuing to discuss route options with proprietor Murray and quite a few other cycle tourists at Fairfield Guesthouse; some bike maintenance done too. Bit of time also spent trying to find various things – sunscreen lip balm (very difficult to find), a foam mattress so I no longer had to sleep on the ground (wasn’t looking hopeful, a yoga mat the only option for a while; but that went to Ian to cut up as a lunch seat when Rachel found a closed cell foam mat – bulky but light enough to carry) and a powerbank – amongst the normal supplies.

More sweet yak milk treats, yum!

Typical rest day gear explosion.

After Ian went to see the hairdresser I’d found, Rachel must have deemed us a bit more presentable – strangely we went out for a beer. That was easily topped by roast beef and Yorkshire puddings for dinner back at Fairfield. A good break from the bikes.

Biking to go places, going places to bike.