Pippu to Asahikawa

Ninety minutes of riding to and then sidling the foothills of the volcanic mountains took us to Higashikawa in plenty of time to work out the bus timetable, eat at the farmers market inside the bus station, browse the Mont Bell store and work out where to leave our bikes in town for hours. Broad daylight in a public thoroughfare should be fine…

Very poor timing out here.

Nice to see little rail cars still trundling around the countryside.

I dived off the road seeing a sign for Canmore Ski Village. Canmore being the town in the Canadian Rockies I lived in for a year – what is going on here?

Not the Canmore I was used to.

Amused by the replacement of the maple leaf in the flag.

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Curious.

Curiouser.

Turns out Canmore, Alberta, is twinned with Higashikawa. Makes some sort of sense.

The bus to the ropeway was fair packed, but it beat riding up the narrow mountain road in the heat. The ropeway took us to 1600 m, we had four hours to get back before the ropeway closed. Only 700 m left to climb to the summit of Mt Asahidake – the highest mountain in Hokkaido. Surely that would be enough, it was only three-ish kilometres.

At least it was cooler up here. (That’s the summit elevation, bit misleading.)

Path flat for a little before beginning the climb. Plenty to look at though, misty peak, nice lake and some geothermal activity.

Up we go. Pretty rocky and loose, but easily walkable.

This section was better underfoot!

Pausing to look around most worthwhile.

Volcanic colours starting to show. Also, typically well-covered Japanese hiker.

We, on the other hand, not as nearly protected from the sun in our bike gear.

I do like fumarole fotos.

Misty clouds continually blowing through as we ascended; occasional views.

Fair bit of traffic, but not overwhelming.

Made it to the top to find we were only three hours’ walk from Kurodake – where we’d been two days before.

Not much of a view down the way we came.

But summit lunch wasn’t bad – some views in the opposite direction.

Bit clearer on the way down.

The descent was good fun, trying to stride, or jump, between large stepping stones and avoid the scree. Back to the flatter section, we still had two hours to spare – it was excellent to have the time to wander around the lower paths as the sky was clearer and it was absolutely gorgeous. So stunning in fact, I’m just going to put all these photos here and not write anything for a bit (!).

Easily making the last gondola, we hitched a ride back to town with an Australian couple – nice to avoid the crowded bus and fun to hear their experiences driving around Hokkaido. Six hours later, our bikes and all our gear were still where we left them against a shop wall in the busiest part of town. Touring in Japan so easy on many counts. An easy cruise down to Asahikawa on cycle trail alongside the Chubetsu River.

A bit neglected early on it soon became a top-notch piece of trail and then very well used.

A free campground in a big city park was home for the night – its point of difference in my mind was the absurdly loud music that played in the toilet block when one entered! After bathing at the largest public onsen of our trip, it was up the street for a barbecue dinner. Excellent day, still remains one of the highlights, if not the highlight, of my time in Japan.

Sounyko to Pippu

Heavy rain overnight eased slightly, but not enough to entice us outside the hostel until after numerous cups of tea had been consumed. A bit of walking around to waterfalls cascading out of slot canyons above the gorge.

Giving the climbing legs another work out trying to get a better view of the falls.

On the bikes well after noon for a long ride down the valley beside the Ishikarigawa River. Bit of a headwind most of the day, but a lot of cycle trail and trees helped to make it even more pleasant.

Lack of traffic meant being able to stare more at the impressive canyon walls surrounding us.

A path on the outside of a galleria – more pleasant.

Out of the canyon, the valley opened up to rice farming land. We detoured to have second lunch in Kamikawa town – following a recommendation of hostel staff. Town quiet in the middle of a Saturday, but the melted cheese on pasta hot plate dish did not disappoint.

Getting back to our route gave the only climb of the day – all of fifty metres. The remaining twenty-five kilometres spent trying to find quiet gravel routes, but they didn’t always work out. Picturesque riding through the golden rice fields sped by; finding ourselves on stop bank cycling road near the end of the day, the elevated vantage point was appreciated.

Don’t think that bridge is going to get us across; backtracking involved.

River still looking dirty through these flood control gates.

Bypassing Aibetsu we thought we’d try to find somewhere a bit further downstream to camp. We found one of the most elaborate toilet block and gardens with picnic shelter we’d seen yet – away from all other people and roads. It was excellent. On the river side of the stop bank there was a small air strip. Investigation later showed that this strip hosts a large annual model aircraft meet – the toilet block just for that, as no other facilities around. Brilliant place to camp.

It was my turn to bike into town to get supplies. Less than five kilometres into Pippu I was treated to some beautiful evening light, as well as a quick ride on smooth trail with little load on the bike.

As if our little find of a camp spot couldn’t get any better, as we had our last cups of tea of the day we were treated to a large fireworks display beyond Pippu. Fantastic.

Nukabira to Sounkyo

Must have been cooler overnight, as first night in the sleeping bags (by now they’d come out of their bags and I tended to use mine as a duvet only). But soon another hot and humid day…

Another camp visitor at breakfast time. Well, we were the visitors – this one probably a local.

Out of Nukabira to spend the day getting deeper into Daisetsuzan National Park. First riding around Lake Nukabira reasonably flat and surrounded by lush forest. Rail remnants on both sides of the lake, old bridges the most visible. We’d heard all about the famed Phantom Bridge – a large viaduct on the other side of the lake that can only been seen when the lake is really low, usually later in the winter and early spring before the snow melt. But climate being what it is and the summer being really hot and dry…

We soon spotted it from afar.

Rachel towering over me as I muck around taking photos.

Further down the highway, we found a small walking path into the woods for a better view of the bridge. Crossing the former rail bed, it wasn’t far to the lake edge (well, what is normally the edge of the lake).

Looks a prime candidate for a rail trail.

Very tempting to ride along it, but previous experience reminds us that it might be blocked or a bridge out quite soon. Alas.

Back to the highway to find we may have entered a Mad Max world. What is this?!

Many deer around happy doing their thing next to passing cars and cyclists.

Oh, it’s a mower; even we could pass this.

Except one poor young deer got a little close to the traffic; Rachel showing her veterinary side and helping it off the road – little else to be done for it unfortunately.

Leaving the lake behind, an hour’s pleasant, forested, gradual climbing along the valley floor took us to the foot of the climb to Mizuyna Pass – the highest paved road in Hokkaido. Beautiful climbing and views back over the wild caldera. The civil engineering was striking too as we rode over some large viaducts to get to the top. Well, top of the road – of course there was a tunnel to avoid the last bit of the terrain.

Rachel’s photo.

But before the tunnel, a bonus – an unexpected, and open, cafe!

Very cute outside and in.

Coffee art was also top-notch, I’m told.

Also our introduction to cheese-on-doorstep-toast.

Recommended for hungry cyclists, or in general. I’m still disappointed I didn’t find a similarly excellent jug to buy and bring home.

To the tunnel! Relatively short, but cut out over a hundred metres more climbing.

Thirty kilometres mostly descending flew by.

Spotted a lot of these fake-trees – we assumed for avalanche control.

Flattening out a bit.

Water levels definitely low.

Rolling into the small alpine village of Sounkyo – only a few steep streets and some big empty waterways, we certainly wouldn’t be seeing any flash floods.

Jian, who we’d met a few days ago, told us of a hostel that offered half-price for long distance cyclists – couldn’t turn that down with the weather that was around. Having checked in and had lunch, we rushed off to the ropeway (cable car) to ascend out of the gorge to hike around a little in the cloud.

Typical flood control weir, barrier that we saw all over the country.

After the long cable car, a short walk to a long chairlift – starting to cool down exposed up here.

Village visible just, route of the chairlift obvious.

Suddenly up in the sub-alpine.

And with a bit of walking on the rocky trail, into the alpine.

The cloud kept blowing through, so at times we got a bit of a view of the plateau and then volcanic peaks and craters.

Heading for those buildings, a small lodge and even smaller store (!).

A good little base for further exploring; but we only had a few hours – so return to Sounkyo we must.

From the roof of the ropeway top station.

Most of Sounkyo village.

Jian recommended a ramen restaurant for dinner.

That was an excellent day with the varied riding, lifts and hiking taking us to great places.

Lake Onneto to Nukabira

Morning visitor; better outside the tent, as with all other creatures.

Long gravel descent to start, extra layer on as a strangely cool start. Few light showers through the day too, but mostly the standard hot and humid.

This stretch first up another highlight of the Japan riding, following a creek down to a sealed road by which time it had become more of a river.

Used to sunflowers being tall…

But rawan buki was a new one. A large field, with a pleasant path through it, of these single stem plants with a broad leaf on top towered over us.

Roadside cheer squad?

Our forty-odd kilometre descent finished in the town of Ashoro, where we lingered for a couple of hours. Found some rawan buki on soft serve ice cream – yum! Pleasantly, not overly, sweet green jelly. The town really leaning into the plant, the manhole covers pictured it and there were plenty of banners around – with a cartoon creature of the plant. The visitor centre used to be the station, but the railway long since closed – pleasingly there was a bit of a display to show some of the history. It looked like we might be following some of the old line later in the day.

With about four hundred metres to gain to Nukabira, we mostly avoided the (admittedly quiet) highways. Steeper in parts than the gentle valley we’d descended earlier, there were enough down sections to get our climbing legs working again later to regain the lost elevation.

Still finding some nice gravel.

Starting to see some old rail infrastructure.

Nukabira is a small town at the end of an inlet at the foot of the lake its named after, sloping up a few streets towards a couple of ski lifts. Very quiet it was, unsure if it still sees much activity in the snow season. Not even a Seicomart, we scrabbled together enough ingredients for an interesting dinner. We had a huge campground all to ourselves; well, as far as other humans went:

More campground companions, about eight centimetres long.

I found a small rail museum in the tiny old station and enjoyed poking around that just before it closed – lots of old maintenance and operational items. Seemed the rail line was mostly there to service forestry. There was a bit of walking to be done from the campground – down to the lake, more old rail bridges and we found another public foot spa in an open area.

Biking to go places, going places to bike.