Heavy rain overnight eased slightly, but not enough to entice us outside the hostel until after numerous cups of tea had been consumed. A bit of walking around to waterfalls cascading out of slot canyons above the gorge.
Giving the climbing legs another work out trying to get a better view of the falls.
On the bikes well after noon for a long ride down the valley beside the Ishikarigawa River. Bit of a headwind most of the day, but a lot of cycle trail and trees helped to make it even more pleasant.
Lack of traffic meant being able to stare more at the impressive canyon walls surrounding us.
A path on the outside of a galleria – more pleasant.
Out of the canyon, the valley opened up to rice farming land. We detoured to have second lunch in Kamikawa town – following a recommendation of hostel staff. Town quiet in the middle of a Saturday, but the melted cheese on pasta hot plate dish did not disappoint.
Getting back to our route gave the only climb of the day – all of fifty metres. The remaining twenty-five kilometres spent trying to find quiet gravel routes, but they didn’t always work out. Picturesque riding through the golden rice fields sped by; finding ourselves on stop bank cycling road near the end of the day, the elevated vantage point was appreciated.
Don’t think that bridge is going to get us across; backtracking involved.
River still looking dirty through these flood control gates.
Bypassing Aibetsu we thought we’d try to find somewhere a bit further downstream to camp. We found one of the most elaborate toilet block and gardens with picnic shelter we’d seen yet – away from all other people and roads. It was excellent. On the river side of the stop bank there was a small air strip. Investigation later showed that this strip hosts a large annual model aircraft meet – the toilet block just for that, as no other facilities around. Brilliant place to camp.
It was my turn to bike into town to get supplies. Less than five kilometres into Pippu I was treated to some beautiful evening light, as well as a quick ride on smooth trail with little load on the bike.
As if our little find of a camp spot couldn’t get any better, as we had our last cups of tea of the day we were treated to a large fireworks display beyond Pippu. Fantastic.
Another camp visitor at breakfast time. Well, we were the visitors – this one probably a local.
We soon spotted it from afar.
Rachel towering over me as I muck around taking photos.
Looks a prime candidate for a rail trail.
Very tempting to ride along it, but previous experience reminds us that it might be blocked or a bridge out quite soon. Alas.
Back to the highway to find we may have entered a Mad Max world. What is this?!
Many deer around happy doing their thing next to passing cars and cyclists.
Oh, it’s a mower; even we could pass this.
Except one poor young deer got a little close to the traffic; Rachel showing her veterinary side and helping it off the road – little else to be done for it unfortunately. 
Rachel’s photo.
Very cute outside and in. 
Coffee art was also top-notch, I’m told.
Recommended for hungry cyclists, or in general. I’m still disappointed I didn’t find a similarly excellent jug to buy and bring home.
To the tunnel! Relatively short, but cut out over a hundred metres more climbing.
Spotted a lot of these fake-trees – we assumed for avalanche control.
Flattening out a bit.
Water levels definitely low.
Rolling into the small alpine village of Sounkyo – only a few steep streets and some big empty waterways, we certainly wouldn’t be seeing any flash floods.
Typical flood control weir, barrier that we saw all over the country.
After the long cable car, a short walk to a long chairlift – starting to cool down exposed up here.
Village visible just, route of the chairlift obvious.
Suddenly up in the sub-alpine.
And with a bit of walking on the rocky trail, into the alpine.
The cloud kept blowing through, so at times we got a bit of a view of the plateau and then volcanic peaks and craters.
Heading for those buildings, a small lodge and even smaller store (!).
A good little base for further exploring; but we only had a few hours – so return to Sounkyo we must.
From the roof of the ropeway top station.
Most of Sounkyo village.
Jian recommended a ramen restaurant for dinner.
Morning visitor; better outside the tent, as with all other creatures.
This stretch first up another highlight of the Japan riding, following a creek down to a sealed road by which time it had become more of a river.
Used to sunflowers being tall…
But rawan buki was a new one. A large field, with a pleasant path through it, of these single stem plants with a broad leaf on top towered over us.
Roadside cheer squad?
Still finding some nice gravel.
Starting to see some old rail infrastructure.
More campground companions, about eight centimetres long.
Farewell to the Ezo Rider house, a great spot a day off the bike. (Learnt much later that Ezo is an old word for Hokkaido.)
That’s a different way of loading logs on a truck, don’t think I’d ever see the like in NZ
Occasional peaks of mountains off in the distance. The closest one being Mt Oakan, the volcano which formed the caldera lake Akan.
Another abandoned building, just past the road summit – an old roadhouse, or visitor centre? Nice to stop for a bit.
Long galleria to break up the arboreal view.
