The one downside of the otherwise excellent little park we camped in was that the fishing boats started up and went out from about two o’clock in the morning! So not a lot of sleep, again; the boats were coming back with their catch as we were going about our morning eating and packing routines.
Rather incongruous windmill.
Don’t know what that was either, except I don’t think it tracks the moon.
Returning fishing boat – the early morning ones all looked like this.
A fairly long and flat day in the heat was in store for us. The northeast coast looked more prosperous than the northwest – many scallop processing plants, shown by the mountains of discarded shells. Also a lot of dairy farms – not that we saw any cows of course, but very tidy fields and large barn complexes. Rachel and Orlaith found a few curiosities to stop and look at…
A fairly large pedestrian route under the quiet highway.
Turned out to be anything but pedestrian.
Certainly brightened up the concrete a bit.
We detoured from the highway to a renowned very straight and long road running parallel to the dunes. A particular favourite of motorcyclists, we soon had our own cheer squad – all seemed ridiculously excited to be on this famous road! Orlaith found it an excellent place to practice riding no-hands.
Eight kilometres is quite a straight in this generally hilly and built-up country.
Leaving the straight, it was back to the farms – with a bonus cycle trail on the map, if only we could get there.
Tracks through farms soon degenerated to a bit of bush bashing.
Soon we were on a lovely tree-lined rail trail, although when we started spying old bear scat the trees started to feel a little close. Unfortunately, as we approached town we came across a bridge that was falling to pieces and very much fenced off. A bit of backtracking (most of the way) past the, hopefully imagined, bears until we could find another farm track to get back to the highway. A pleasant, if unfruitful, diversion.
Still too early for lunch, we took another detour off the other side of the highway to a nature reserve back behind the dunes. Alas, we were a bit late for all the flowers that bloom there. Walking still a struggle it seemed, descending from the observation tower particularly slow!
Must get quite marshy in here.
A good spot for birdwatching too, one imagines. An impressively large tower for a pretty small reserve.
We found that track beyond the roadend did take us all the way to town, past some heavy machinery operating but we didn’t get munched.
Into town for a normal lunch time, and what was now a normal lunch – konbini offerings, can’t go too wrong.
Back on the highway – so often there’s a large path next to them. Sometimes worth riding on, if one can find a way over the curb or be bothered stopping and lifting; joining such a path to be weighed up with the risk it suddenly stops or is quite old and either overgrown or very corrugated from roots pushing up the surface.
The last thirty kilometres of coastal riding for the day got more interesting as it became sandwiched between the coast and big rocky hills and outcrops. If they got too close to the sea, there would often be a tunnel. Sometimes the old coastal road would still be present – nice to take that, but at the risk that it might no longer go through.
We crossed the 45th parallel again – the 45th Parallel International Park was a non-event.
With conflicting information online, we weren’t sure what we’d find where we wanted to camp that night. Turned out the campground was closed, but there was camping nearby in and around a parking lot a short distance from an information centre on the highway – so long as one stayed out of the bear habitat! Tents up, we had enough time to go down to the beach for a drink and a swim.
Highlight of the day was grand hospitality from, and fun conversation with, Yumi and Ken from greater-Tokyo who were travelling in their little camper and cooked an excellent dinner. Thankfully we had been shopping in the last town so were able to contribute a little.
Back south along the east coast for a bit (Rachel’s photo).
The first of a lot of kelp we saw drying today.
A good example of a tsunami escape staircase, don’t remember there being a lot of houses or people around here though.
One of the longer gallerias we saw and rode through.
(Rachel’s photo)
Not a cat.
(Rachel’s photo)
A popular spot, hadn’t seen so many people in one place on these islands.
Back through the tunnel, alarming to be passed by the high-pitched whine of this scooter.
Back to join the motorbikes.
Bit busier than last time (Rachel’s photo).
Around Wakkanai’s port again.
Funny, coming from the kiwifruit capital of the world, to see them right at the top of Japan. Would realise during the trip that Zespri is the NZ brand that one sees most in Japan.
The stock, and low cost, of RTDs (ready-to-drink alcoholic drinks in NZ vernacular) in konbinis was always alarming; of the few I tried, I didn’t find a gin-based one I really liked. Nice change at the end of a hot day though, as a contrast to all the soft drinks.
Very much crushed shells; at least some use for the piles we’d see at various processing plants. 
Sakhalin Island in the distance.
Rishiri to the left, Rebun on the right (Rachel’s photo).
(Rachel’s photo)
The little bridge to the shrine is still bigger than the shrine.
Earlier we’d noticed small boats returning, wondering what their catch was.
Stopping at this garage on the side of the main road, we found out as we watched this family processing the morning’s haul.
Quite the hive of industry on a Sunday morning. But not so busy that we didn’t try to communicate and find out what each other was doing.
Sea urchins, uni – spiky!
Very tasty too, can see why they’re a delicacy – both from the work involved and the taste.
Off we continued on the very quiet road, the peak now starting to cloud over.
But there were plenty of big butterflies and irises to catch the eye. Expensive scallops cooked in the shell satisfied the taste buds too.
Not a better day to climb the mountain.
Rachel’s photo as we headed up the east coast, pretty sure we’d make the ferry in time.
Nice cycle trail through forest as we approached port, over those bridges spied each of the previous two days.
Ferry docking, Rebun on the horizon.
With plenty of time to spare, Orlaith and Rachel went and climbed this – my legs were not interested after Mt Rishiri descent.
Never found out if the takeout was that good.
Those bridges again; still not completely sure how such bridges became part of a cycle trail. Some narrow gauge railway (but why would there be one here?) vibes in part, but I can’t find anything about the history of them.
Goodbye Rishiri – a fun island stay, pity we didn’t quite get the views for the price my legs paid on the hike descent!
Was not a busy sailing.
Yet another island it turned out!
And some impressive cliffs.
Old fields fading away, another sign these places used to support far more people than nowadays.
Hopefully as charming as this.
Very easy going to start.
Starting to steepen and become less paved.
Beautiful forest lower – spruces, various pines, silver birch were some of the trees we recognised.
Soon out of the forest, confirmation unfortunately that the cloud had rolled in.
It was easy to see just how much water must come down this track; the level of upkeep done to keep it serviceable obvious and impressive (Rachel’s photo).
Occasional glimpses of the top possible.
As the vegetation got shorter, it and the heat started to remind me of being in tea fields.
Three-quarters of the way up there was some respite from the otherwise relentless climbing – my legs were not looking forward to the descent.
It still looks a fair way off.
Back in the mist.
Plastic pipes filled with rocks made for an interesting staircase and erosion control option on this particularly steep section.
Although they started to feel like they would be ideal for people twice as tall as us.
Greeted by rain near the summit shrine.
Made it (two hours and twenty); we didn’t stick around for long on account of rain and no view, alas (Orlaith’s photo).
Curious number of boat propellors lugged up here.
Ferry leaving for Rebun, as we would tomorrow.
Rebun, not so far away as Hokkaido; spot the ferry.
That rather distinctive bridge that we saw yesterday, and would ride over tomorrow.
These cicadas were unbelievably loud; if I’d have had ear plugs on me, I’d have used them.
Back in the forest; legs jelly-like by now.
Still can’t see the top as we biked back to camp, after an ice cream at a konbini.
There it is.
Still a bit of the afternoon left; there may have been some swimming in the fishing cove – but not for me, onsen later on was most welcome.
Dinner at an izakaya, where we sat at the bar watching the action.
Happy with the tempura, and to be sitting down (Rachel’s photo).
Nice to see the lanterns lit tonight…
and a big moon come to join us, mountain finally clear of cloud.