Otama to Lake Inawashiro

Just a half-day of riding on leaving Seiko’s house, as a little ahead of schedule to meet Rachel’s brother for the upcoming long weekend. Not even fifty kilometres and only four hundred metres of climbing – far more restful than our day off bikepacking yesterday!

Bye to Seiko’s home.

Bit of flora on the covers for a change.

This house must have caught my eye early on as we endured a rat-run for morning commuters.

Birds starting to reappear.

Halfway through the climb to Lake Inawashiro we got back out to the countryside, plenty of harvesting of rice – which was a nice change from the traffic on the secondary highway earlier.

Short detour to find a konbini for lunch and overnight supplies. The 7-Eleven was unusually lacking fresh produce, so we ended up with frozen meals and veges – bound to thaw in the afternoon heat. Around the lake we went, passing a few free campsites – suitable besides being still morning and too early to stop.

Still a wee way to go; very flat though, as why go over when you can go through a hill.

At camp by one o’clock made for a relaxing afternoon in the shade of the campground trees, right on the edge of the lake. After making camp, tea, and a nap it was time for a wander around the quiet village.

Appearing from the cover above.

Kiwifruit!

Bell for the fire station.

Grain store with roof elevated off walls.

Back to camp to see how our now-thawed frozen meals would work out – quite alright. Although a cat found the milk carton in the porch of Rachel’s tent overnight, pierced it and stole our milk!

Mt Adatara

Could have been a nice rest day, especially as it was hot again. But seems we couldn’t resist clear blue skies and going up a mountain. Rest later I guess. But first a leisurely breakfast with Seiko – even had some Vegemite, different treat to those we were used to in Japan.

Couldn’t believe we’d found a microwave even older than Rachel’s back in NZ.

Loving the old appliances, still going strong.

Top cover.

After nine o’clock was enough of a late start, especially as it was soon over thirty degrees – back across the end of yesterday’s route before turning into the mountains.

Still a little way to go.

Seems squirrels like hot springs too.

Didn’t stop for long, except to get cold drinks and supplies at the konbini.

750 metres of climbing took us close to two hours all up, at least it was shaded in parts and we were unloaded. We had to stop for more cold drinks before catching the ropeway (cable car) another 400 metres higher up the mountain.

Back where we came from.

Wasn’t expecting to see these animals up here.

What this doesn’t show is the 400 m more to climb…

Bit of a plod up the mountain due to the heat and residual tiredness (did I mention a rest day would be nice?). But beautiful walking and we finally got clear skies and views from a summit! The crater was particularly impressive, with a good whiff of sulfur. To the south we could see Lake Inawashiro – tomorrow’s destination.

(Rachel’s photo)

(Rachel’s photo)

It was an amble down, while ensuring we did not miss the last cable car.

A fun whizz down the hill, besides returning to the cauldron of the valley. We passed some of the same people working the same rice fields as earlier in the day – much to their bemusement.

Back to Seiko’s house for a tasty homemade chicken curry with rice from her own fields. It was interesting to learn a bit more of what it was like for Seiko growing up here and spending time in a good example of the type of house we’d been passing so often. Thanks for having us, Seiko.

(Rachel’s photo)

Togatta Onsen to Otama

A clagged in morning, with little chance of clearing, scuppered the plan to climb 1300 m up the Zao Mountains. Although Rachel’s friend, Seiko, had recommended them as very beautiful, I wasn’t displeased to not be climbing for hours to see cloud. We headed south towards Seiko’s house on the hottest and most humid day we’d had since the early days of the trip in Hokkaido – back into the mid-thirties. It was a day of castles, punchy and lumpy hills, and tenuous links trying to avoid shikansen, expressway, highway and rail corridors in a narrowing valley.

Plenty of space to share with one other group at a typically deserted post-summer campground.

Checking out the foot spa in town after resupplying. (Rachel’s photo.)

In Shiroishi we found a large restored castle, good to wander and be impressed with the carpentry, as well as an elevated view of the town.

I quite like the tiles too.

On the edge of town, we found this temple – but were perplexed as to why the statues had little red hats on.

About the time our tenuous connections started getting tested, mostly we made it through – if somewhat covered in the big, yellow, sticky webs again.

More small local, distributed solar farms.

Heading down there…

At one stage our track seemed to take us right through someone’s orchard. Thankfully the owner was there and he was happy to lead us the correct way in his kei truck; no questions asked as to why we suddenly appeared.

Crossing into Fukishima prefecture, we had a descent to the valley floor through apple orchards.

But first lunch in the shade while our tents dried in the midday heat.

Apples growing in protective paper bags again.

We mostly avoided the busy areas continuing to ride through orchards, rice fields and market gardens – did start to see plenty of different covers, including new-to-us colourful hydrant covers.

Beside the Abukuma River as we left Fukushima City we stopped at a preserved bank-manager’s house, that was mostly Japanese but had some post-war American occupation influences. Mostly it was a good way to get out of the heat for a bit.

Out of the city, some well kept grain stores amongst rice fields; things got a bit more lumpy again, which wasn’t fantastic in the heat.

Seems they have giant firefighters around here, or they use kei trucks as fire engines.

We found another castle, but mostly it was a really big wooded park. Didn’t hang around too long, places to be.

Six or so kilometres of cutting through rice fields on the outskirts of Otama, gently climbing to Seiko’s home in a small village.

Like a good twilight riding shadow on a field – reminds me of riding in the Saarland eleven years before.

After getting the wrong house in the village, Seiko came and found us. Rachel used to work with Seiko in Hokitika, so they had a lot of catching up to do after Seiko returned to Japan a year earlier. Nice to stay in a home, especially a tepid shower after a hot day. Seiko took us into the bright lights of Koriyama city – the brightest lights we’d seen for a while. Gyoza for dinner went down a treat, as did the Mister Donut dessert.

Unsure why there is an orange on the windscreen, but I was well-pleased to finally get to ride in a kei car.

Misato to Togatta Onsen

We appreciated a later start after farewelling our hosts, but were even more pleased to see blue sky and the sun out again after yesterday’s all-day rain. Stopbank trails to start took us out of town and then across a wide valley with a shinkansen viaduct in the distance. Plenty more flood protection work ongoing.

Thirty kilometres of rural riding was pleasant before we hit the suburbs of and then skirted Sendai, a city of a million, as best we could.

Into the suburbs…

From a distance, understandably, we spotted a prominent white statue. Our route down a busy arterial road took us right past it – a giant buddha, one of the largest statues in the world at over a hundred metres tall.

Midday by now, our search for lunch inadvertently took us into a large pachinko. We didn’t find food in here, but interesting and depressing to finally see inside one of the many machine gambling parlours.

Amusingly lunch was in another of the family restaurants of the same chain as we ate in last night. At least we knew the drill with limitless free tea and the menu. Out of the city we were quickly onto small rural roads, climbing slightly.

One road to keep us off a highway was closed to cars in part, but thankfully we got through gates and so forth without having to back track around this lake.

I finally saw a live Japanese racoon dog, tanuki, run across the road – they look quite different to how the popular folklore figure is portrayed on many small statues (think garden gnome sized, but far less disturbing). Saw one on a stormwater cover too.

I was impressed first by this rural house, but then more so by the topiary and the obvious effort involved.

Town signs returned for a bit (not nearly as many in Honshu as Hokkaido) as we found a busier road between Kawazaki and Zao.

Stocking up with fresh veges at a large roadside produce shop, just a short climb to an onsen town and a camp ground where at least there was at least some other people camping – a Japanese family.

Biking to go places, going places to bike.