Returning to the mainland on a different ferry, from the south of Sado, cut out a fair chunk of riding we’d have had to do from Niigata to fit into our plans to be in Tokyo area in a few days’ time. It also meant that we’d get to see a bit more of Sado, and an early decamp and departure to ensure we had plenty of time to get tickets (can’t rely on that being an easy process).

Flat and coastal initially we had some fun route finding and ended up on a big sea wall and tracks around an industrial complex. That put us back on quiet highway through some coastal towns before a little climbing.

The hills showed us some extensive orchards, some persimmon again and maybe nashi – hard to tell as the paper bags protecting the fruit returned.

At the top of a climb we found these old distance markers from centuries ago.

And also some nice views across the countryside.

Arriving at the ferry terminal with hours to spare, we found it pretty much deserted. Eventually we found an attendant who told us that there were no spaces left for bikes. This seemed unlikely, given the general lack of activity and the size of all the other ferries we’d previously been on. It was recommended we buy tickets anyway and see if we’d get on. Which we did, before going to find somewhere to sit down and have second breakfast.

Crossing the strait in a traditional tub boat did not appeal.

Successfully found a interesting cafe, hot cocoa for a change (along with second breakfast).

Eventually it was time to try our luck at getting on the ferry; not getting across would rather put a tightening implement in the machinery. We queued with a Japanese cycle tourist – still using the same bike after forty-odd years! Kudos to him. The marshals waved us on board first with no problems whatsoever, which was a relief.

Seems unlikely they’d run out of space for bikes.

Now getting used to this level of care.

After a shorter voyage than the one to Sado, we were first off the boat in Joetsu. Hot again, time to find a 7-Eleven lunch before twenty cruisy kilometres of stopbank riding south. An unexpected cathedral and an expected castle, with moat, on the way.

After Myoko, gradual climbing into foothills began – with glimpses of the Japanese Alps in the distance. Very pleasant riding on quiet roads through rice fields.

Rejoining a main road through Sekiyama, half-four felt like a good time to resupply and find somewhere to camp. Dropping down a side road, over the rails took us to a large sports complex. Nowhere suitable to camp around the baseball diamond or athletics track, but on the other side of indoor arena and gym we found a beautiful little park out of sight.

Still able to roll out the door after another big hotel buffet breakfast, it was not far to go to the ferry terminal. We boarded the largest ferry we’d been on yet for our longest crossing to another island – Sado.

Again, very well secured.

Got to board first, and disembark first too.

More laying around for the voyage, good time to try and stretch some of the sore muscles.

Ready for Island #6, after a lumpy crossing.

Certainly bigger than all the other ferries.

Riding by noon, we had the afternoon around the north of the east shore of the island – before crossing back west over some hills to the central plains. The island looked prosperous and I saw none of the abandoned buildings that we’d become used to during our first seven weeks in Japan.

The northern tip of the eastern side of Sado.

The western side of the island extends further north.

(Rachel’s photo.)

Small islands like this close to shore usually have a shrine – this no exception. The arch under the island different though.

The predominant house style was brown board and batten.

More board and batten, with bonus onions drying. (Rachel’s photo.)

(Rachel’s photo.)

This was a great campsite, but too early in the day and Thomas wasn’t carrying camping gear.

Just about to discover a guy escaped from the city selling tasty donuts out a window of his house. (Rachel’s photo.)

Certainly worth stopping for.

A pleasant 300-odd metre climb took us through mostly forested land, with some rice fields, persimmon orchards and attempts at erosion control to then drop to the plains.

These were differnt statues to what we were used to seeing at temples.

Certainly were a lot of them.

The sea was a lot calmer when we came to check-in to the campground, conveniently next door to the hotel-onsen that Thomas was staying in.

Tasty dinner that night at a Taiwanese restaurant – little bit more spice than typical Japanese fare.