Asahikawa to Hakuginso

Late start after a big cooked breakfast in our wee studio apartment. Not only farewelling the pleasant city of Asahikawa, but Orlaith too – great touring buddy who found plenty of interesting things to see, and kept us on our toes with each morning’s “question of the day”. Back out of town the way we came in – cycle trail up the Chubetsu River. That only lasted five kilometres as we left the river to head through farmland on the slightest of climbs. Another rice area, difference in this one being a staggering amount of earthworks for new, larger rice fields.

Asahidake in cloud again.

Oh, there’s the airport – didn’t see Orlaith but.

Surprised, but pleased, to see a few Massey Fergusons in this lot.

Rice growing gave way to extensive onion and potato crops around the trendy little town of Biei. Seems bus loads of tourists come to see the flowers and gardens, before heading up to the Blue Pool – where we were also going, after lunch and getting supplies for overnight.

Gently climbing, cycle trail ran beside the Biei River pretty much all the way to the pool. The water was so clear, and unsurprisingly looked pretty blue – apparently from aluminium coming out of a volcanic area.

Many more of those flood control weirs up this way.

The Blue Pool wasn’t all that exciting. As indicated earlier, many bus loads of people – so decent people watching.

Seemed the pool was artificial.

Looked pretty green to me, the Biei River was bluer.

I still can’t work this map out, and I was there. Usually they make some sense.

A short distance up the valley from the pool is the Shirahige Falls, with some good viewpoints. It started to rain heavily enough to curtail our viewing. What we did see looked pretty.

Climbing a bit more to finish the day, it stayed wet enough that choosing a hostel bed over camping was the attractive option. The adjoining onsen was notably excellent too. Cooking in a proper kitchen also far better than over a gas stove in the rain. To our amusement, we were complimented on the meal we cooked by some of our Japanese hostel buddies.

Seems I also remembered to take a couple of photos to show what a typical Japanese hostel dormitory room is like. Not dissimilar to others, so long as proper slipper etiquette was observed.

Asahikawa

A day off touring in Asahikawa, Hokkaido’s second city – main objective was to find a bike box for Orlaith’s departure the following day. For a change, it seems I bothered to take some campground pictures.

Twas a very nice park in the city, and a free campground too – we did find a lot of those in Japan.

Typical cooking shelter at campgrounds – well used to those long concrete sinks.

Squirrels were a different addition to this place.

Just as we were leaving, this one showed they’re quite used to people.

Hello there.

Crossing the river, we returned to where we came into town previous evening – but headed upstream for twenty kilometres on riverside cycle trail.

A few kilometres from the river was the rice art we’d come to see.

Various varieties of rice had been planted to make a picture.

This year it was honouring a local javelin hero.

This is what it looked like at ground level.

Unfortunately, the viewing tower was closed so we couldn’t appreciate it properly from height. There was a lot of activity, packing down after some event. Eventually it clicked that the weekend’s festival was where the fireworks we’d seen two nights before had come from – we’d only camped five or six kilometres away on the other side of Pippu.

Got a view of Asahidake in the distance though.

Back to the city we headed, aiming for a bike shop on that side of Asahikawa.

Finally snapped a photo of these curious rice field half-tracks for my nephew.

A promising entrance to a bike shop.

New bar ends anyone?

Orlaith had some success getting a bike box, Rachel not so much trying to get a replacement SRAM chain. Next stop was a sake park. I’m not much of a fan of the drink, but went along. Pleasingly there was a small process and associated equipment to study. I know of only one reader who will appreciate this (there may be others, but seems unlikely) – these photos for you Liz.

I lingered with the process equipment and history display before eventually getting to the free tasting and gift shop. To my amusement and much to Rachel and Orlaith’s chagrin, they were denied sake to taste as we’d biked there and zero tolerance for drinking and driving seems to extend to bicycling too!

Weird to be somewhere with bigger streets and many big signs.

After a little shopping in a sports store it was time for lunch – at the Asahikawa ramen village.

Worth a short queue outside in the heat.

Eventually it was getting close to being able to check into our studio apartment – it’s much easier to pack everything up for a flight home if you’re not camping for the night. Back to the park to decamp and move a little across the city. Somehow we’d ended up doing well over fifty kilometres on the bikes on what I thought was going to be a rest day!

Rest of the afternoon spent doing errands and wandering the streets.

Furrito Alley for dinner at an izakaya.

Many small dishes – fish, pork, asparagus and potatoes most noteworthy.

Rachel and Orlaith did get their sake in the end.

Quite a large bottle. We were amused to see the glasses filled to overflow into the small dish beneath.

Required some method not to spill it everywhere.

Pippu to Asahikawa

Ninety minutes of riding to and then sidling the foothills of the volcanic mountains took us to Higashikawa in plenty of time to work out the bus timetable, eat at the farmers market inside the bus station, browse the Mont Bell store and work out where to leave our bikes in town for hours. Broad daylight in a public thoroughfare should be fine…

Very poor timing out here.

Nice to see little rail cars still trundling around the countryside.

I dived off the road seeing a sign for Canmore Ski Village. Canmore being the town in the Canadian Rockies I lived in for a year – what is going on here?

Not the Canmore I was used to.

Amused by the replacement of the maple leaf in the flag.

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Curious.

Curiouser.

Turns out Canmore, Alberta, is twinned with Higashikawa. Makes some sort of sense.

The bus to the ropeway was fair packed, but it beat riding up the narrow mountain road in the heat. The ropeway took us to 1600 m, we had four hours to get back before the ropeway closed. Only 700 m left to climb to the summit of Mt Asahidake – the highest mountain in Hokkaido. Surely that would be enough, it was only three-ish kilometres.

At least it was cooler up here. (That’s the summit elevation, bit misleading.)

Path flat for a little before beginning the climb. Plenty to look at though, misty peak, nice lake and some geothermal activity.

Up we go. Pretty rocky and loose, but easily walkable.

This section was better underfoot!

Pausing to look around most worthwhile.

Volcanic colours starting to show. Also, typically well-covered Japanese hiker.

We, on the other hand, not as nearly protected from the sun in our bike gear.

I do like fumarole fotos.

Misty clouds continually blowing through as we ascended; occasional views.

Fair bit of traffic, but not overwhelming.

Made it to the top to find we were only three hours’ walk from Kurodake – where we’d been two days before.

Not much of a view down the way we came.

But summit lunch wasn’t bad – some views in the opposite direction.

Bit clearer on the way down.

The descent was good fun, trying to stride, or jump, between large stepping stones and avoid the scree. Back to the flatter section, we still had two hours to spare – it was excellent to have the time to wander around the lower paths as the sky was clearer and it was absolutely gorgeous. So stunning in fact, I’m just going to put all these photos here and not write anything for a bit (!).

Easily making the last gondola, we hitched a ride back to town with an Australian couple – nice to avoid the crowded bus and fun to hear their experiences driving around Hokkaido. Six hours later, our bikes and all our gear were still where we left them against a shop wall in the busiest part of town. Touring in Japan so easy on many counts. An easy cruise down to Asahikawa on cycle trail alongside the Chubetsu River.

A bit neglected early on it soon became a top-notch piece of trail and then very well used.

A free campground in a big city park was home for the night – its point of difference in my mind was the absurdly loud music that played in the toilet block when one entered! After bathing at the largest public onsen of our trip, it was up the street for a barbecue dinner. Excellent day, still remains one of the highlights, if not the highlight, of my time in Japan.

Sounyko to Pippu

Heavy rain overnight eased slightly, but not enough to entice us outside the hostel until after numerous cups of tea had been consumed. A bit of walking around to waterfalls cascading out of slot canyons above the gorge.

Giving the climbing legs another work out trying to get a better view of the falls.

On the bikes well after noon for a long ride down the valley beside the Ishikarigawa River. Bit of a headwind most of the day, but a lot of cycle trail and trees helped to make it even more pleasant.

Lack of traffic meant being able to stare more at the impressive canyon walls surrounding us.

A path on the outside of a galleria – more pleasant.

Out of the canyon, the valley opened up to rice farming land. We detoured to have second lunch in Kamikawa town – following a recommendation of hostel staff. Town quiet in the middle of a Saturday, but the melted cheese on pasta hot plate dish did not disappoint.

Getting back to our route gave the only climb of the day – all of fifty metres. The remaining twenty-five kilometres spent trying to find quiet gravel routes, but they didn’t always work out. Picturesque riding through the golden rice fields sped by; finding ourselves on stop bank cycling road near the end of the day, the elevated vantage point was appreciated.

Don’t think that bridge is going to get us across; backtracking involved.

River still looking dirty through these flood control gates.

Bypassing Aibetsu we thought we’d try to find somewhere a bit further downstream to camp. We found one of the most elaborate toilet block and gardens with picnic shelter we’d seen yet – away from all other people and roads. It was excellent. On the river side of the stop bank there was a small air strip. Investigation later showed that this strip hosts a large annual model aircraft meet – the toilet block just for that, as no other facilities around. Brilliant place to camp.

It was my turn to bike into town to get supplies. Less than five kilometres into Pippu I was treated to some beautiful evening light, as well as a quick ride on smooth trail with little load on the bike.

As if our little find of a camp spot couldn’t get any better, as we had our last cups of tea of the day we were treated to a large fireworks display beyond Pippu. Fantastic.

Biking to go places, going places to bike.