ACAL Day One – Kurow to Lindis River campsite

So excited by the chance to go on Andy’s Conservation Area Loop (what I’m calling it anyway) was I, that I cut short New Year’s riding to return home and prepare for it. Aiming to string together a number of parks and their tops using farm tracks to that have only relatively recently become accessible sounded a grand idea to me – this plan had been fermenting in Andy’s mind for a while. What’s more, the forecast steadily improved in the week before. We had five days to ride the 300+ kilometre route; knowing little of the country, except that it would be very hilly, four days seemed likely for a good touring, definitely not race, pace.

A big breakfast in a Kurow cabin and a civil seven-thirty start and we were away up the Alps2Ocean. I’d not ridden the longest cycle trail in the country in its entirety for many years, so was pleased to find that a lot of more of it has been taken off the Waitaki Valley highway. It was still early and warming well, we wondered if we’d gotten things completely wrong watching the pleasure boats on the hyrdo dams.

Across Lake Benmore from the dam remembering previous trips on that lumpy pylon access road.

Across the dam and there’s now a trail up there, instead of going through Otematata down at valley floor level.

Looking over Otematata Station to the Hawkduns brought back memories of stinking hot days climbing up there less than a year ago on the first Tour Te Waipounamu. Comparisons to and memories of our respective TTW races would be a regular topic, such was its significance in our bikepacking lives.

I was thrilled that this new section of A2O took us high above the lake to give views of parts I’d not seen before.

There was some steady climbing, but equally fun downhills, and the section to Sailors Cutting provided a good warm-up. It’s a popular trail and there were plenty of riders to greet as they rode the, preferred, opposite direction. I think it’s just as good as the more-hyped Lake Dunstan Trail – the views are less confined, and there’s no highway noise for starters.

Still surprised at just how green this normally barren area is looking this summer.

The standard big meal at Wrinkly Rams consumed, we were soon out into the afternoon for a hour of gradual highway climbing towards Lindis Pass. Holiday traffic wasn’t too bad, none of the big rigs I’m used too. We continued up the Ahuriri valley as the highway turned towards the pass.

Almost another hour up the wide valley, getting closer to the access easement.

Andy’s photo.

Stunner, hot afternoon.

We were advised to cross the Avon Burn as soon as possible and stick to the farm track, much easier going than the nearby poled route.

The track soon left the stream with some steep pinch climbs.

As we got into the hills, we constantly pondered just which track we would soon be ascending. Andy’s photo.

We found this sweet, old private hut just before the long push began.

Available to stay in for a small fee, it was a beaut. Around four o’clock, most of us were tempted to call it a day there. But we’d not even managed a hundred kilometres, and little climbing – it was well too early to waste such kind, calm conditions. There began two hours of mostly walking through six hundred metres of ascent. All on reasonable double-track, the pushing was easy enough – that is, wheels rolled and there was no carrying.

Looking up to the big switchback, that was almost halfway up the total climb.

The views changed constantly and they were staggering. Spotting all the similar tracks dozed across and up other hills was a favourite – I want to explore them all!

Back down Avon Burn, the hut near those yards.

I’d been a bit nervous about recent medical things, so forwent a comfortable tent for a bivy bag and a stove for dry, cold meals (the forecast was good) to save a bit of weight – this helped to keep my bike moving a little faster. Rachel and I both left backpacks behind, but both found adequate solutions to strapping our front packs to our back to lighten bikes further for prolonged pushes.

Looking south before switching back and crossing that face two pictures above.

Running out of words for a while.

I can see at least eight tracks there I want to explore!

Into Otago now and the start of the Lindis River, we’d be down there soon enough.

Waiting a bit, scoping out more tracks.

The trail changed for the last few kilometres to the summit, with a little dip around the corner to climb out of.

It was so unbelievably still at the top of the Melina Ridge track, I was more than happy to linger waiting for Andy and Rachel – soaking in the views all around and scheming further adventures now that my eyes helped me to grasp the possibilities that a friend had mentioned on my arrival to Otago.

Tough place for fenceposts.

Eventually we were able to draw ourselves away from the views and set off down.

Through the gate into our first conservation area, I was not stopping on the downhill that presented itself.

Screaming down through a five hundred metre drop in ten minutes of big switchbacks and plenty of bouncing around on my loaded, rigid bike was oh so much fun. So much fun that I have no photos. I’d apologise, but it was completely worth it! Much possibility to come back with a trail bike (not far off now, new one is in the country).

More waiting (eight minutes, which is not bad considering how much more media the others got) gave the chance to top up bottles at the creek and sit on a big rock in the sun looking down the valley.

Another climb from that stream did at least give a good view of the bottom part of the descent. One can see the Mt Melina track, that left the ridge track at its highpoint.

Now down in the Lindis valley floor and past the turn off to Mt Prospect (another riding possibility), nearing a twelve hour day, with the sublime Melina Ridge in there, seemed a reasonable time to look for a nice campsite before getting too close to the highway. We found a sheltered one on some river flats near a tributary that we would turn up the next day and set ourselves up for the night. What a fantastic day of brilliant weather, amazing new views, great company and excellent riding – the pushing wasn’t even that bad either.

Thomsons Gorge to ride Lake Dunstan Trail finally

Somehow involved in the planning for a group to ride the GSB21 route (mosty), it seemed rude not to make an appearance as I was in the area. An addition to the route was the new Lake Dunstan Trail – which I’d not managed to ride in the six months since it had opened – so that was the obvious part to tag along on. The Knobby Range shortly after was my favourite part of GSB21, I’d ride that too and then rush back to next venesection.

Rail trail to the end would have been too monotonous, so after a nice fifty kilometre warm-up in cool summer conditions, and a big first-lunch in Omakau, I struck north for Thomsons Gorge.

Out of Oturehua on the Otago Central Rail Trail.

Having remembered the wind and heat of previous rides through here, I was unsure how I’d do in my current lower-fitness state. Especially up the steep first pitch – I thought there would be some walking involved. There began a curious internal monologue as the climbing began – one voice telling me that I was ill, walked last time and would be walking soon; the other voice just getting me to pedal a little bit further. Before I knew it, the steep section was completed – on the bike (except for opening and closing some of the twenty-two gates).

Starting the climb, over the Manuherikia Valley to the Raggedy Range.

I love riding through this gorge for the challenge (usually in the form of crazy wind, and not insubstantial heat) and the views. This day was the most benign I’d ever had the conditions – not that hot, patchy sun, occasional cloud cover and not a breath of wind. It made a nice change from being blown off my bike, which is more usual.

For once I had the time and inclination to make the small detour and check out this wee old hut. A pleasant spot for second-lunch.

Thomsons Saddle.

Headwaters of Thomsons Creek, the stone hut just around the corner.

One day, hopefully soon, I’ll go up there. Now I’m in the area, there are many little side trips to be found and explored.

Knowing I’d be well early to the Cromwell rendezvous, I took the opportunity to check out some of the mining relics. All those times I’d ridden down that hill and I had no idea there was a sizeable mineshaft stretching under the road – I didn’t have to stoop that much as it went deeper into the hillside.

The restored Come In Time Battery.

Over the Lindis River.

An easy twenty-odd kilometres into Cromwell along the highway was not too unpleasant with traffic only of the holiday and multi-sport varieties, nothing heavy – makes a nice change from logging trucks. Hours early, I rode around the outskirts, popped out to Bannockburn and had first-dinner waiting for the group to arrive. Their arrival prompted many stories of the trail, and second-dinner.

A big breakfast done and it was a leisurely start after seven the next day. Cutting across to the road out to Bannockburn, soon over the Kawarau arm of Lake Dunstan and onto trail new to me. It’s an easy trail, and would be fast – but for its popularity. Even at that time of the morning, there were plenty of people out enjoying it. The engineering along the edge where the Cairnmuirs now suddenly drop into the hydroelectric lake is an incredible feat on an excellent trail that links Clyde and Cromwell without using the highway or the big, steep Hawksburn Road climb. The platforms bolted on to and cantilevered out from the cliff edge are most notable, but there are sizeable bridges too.

Heading to Cornish Point.

There’s the occasional climb, but nothing significant on a loaded bike.

Most memorable event of the trail was courtesy of a large merino ram. Thankfully we came across it while on a moderate downhill. Four of us got past it chased, but unscathed. Tom, however, stopped further up the trail to watch the happenings. The territorial ram noticed and trotted up the track. His bike between him and the ram, repeated charges and bunting were not completely avoided. If it wasn’t so comical, we may have been more concerned. With no bears, moose, snakes, and cougars I guess we have to make do with temperamental rams. Mirth contained enough, I eventually ventured back up the trail a bit to try and provide enough distraction for Tom to get on his bike. My help was not needed as he finally got away unscathed – physically at least, time will tell about mental scars. Unfortunately the front wheel and brake disc were not so lucky, requiring some attention at the next bike shop.

As well as the scenery, which was probably not helped by the gloomy day, I enjoyed having the time to read all the signs detailing history and engineering in the area.

Out at the Clyde Rowing Club, I was most surprised when one of runners we chatted to ended up being Steve, a guy I happened to ride most of the last day of my Tour Aotearoa with six years earlier! I always wondered what happened to him after he rode off into the crazy headwind that left me struggling for eighty minutes to move eight kilometres alongside a flat highway. Curiosity satisfied.

That was a fun ride, I look forward to doing it again in clearer weather and maybe off-season (if it has one). The day warmed as we rode the twelve or so shaded kilometres into Alexandra. I found a burst of energy and didn’t stop until the end – there having to wait quite some time before rolling into town for a large early lunch, and for Tom to get his wheel fixed. Somewhere along the way, others had had enough of hills and quit on the Knobby Range plan – opting for Clutha Gold and a ridiculously expensive jet boat ride instead. Ditching the best bit of the GSB course for a disjointed, low trail held no appeal, especially when it’d be even more of an effort to make my venesection appointment on time – I said my goodbyes and cruised the ninety kilometres back home on the rail trail.

Saying goodbyes.

Actually stopping to read the interesting displays at Lauder.

Nice to get out and stretch the legs for a couple of days, ride a new trail, enjoy the company of other riders and take a bit more time absorbing some of the history of the area.