The shelter at Lyell provided a surprisingly good sleep, we were on our way shortly after eight.

But first, the obligatory photo.

The old path up from Lyell to long-ago mining settlements further above the Lyell Creek valley was as lovely as ever, and being a long-established trail, in good condition. No shortage of green to look at either. The climb is gradual and the riding mellow for the 800 m gain over fifteen kilometres. Some of the frequent stream crossings require dismounting, but many are rideable.

Taking the time to poke around a long abandoned hut.

The short deviation to Lyell Saddle Hut is under repair – easily the muddiest bit of the whole trail! We should have left our bikes and just taken our morning tea up – a long morning tea chatting with the only hiker we would see on the trail all day (we’d met at the shelter earlier and then passed him on the climb). Studying a map and trail guide in the hut, we’d made good progress (at the fast end of the range given for biking up), but adding the rest of the sections that we planned for the day it was clear we should get moving if we didn’t want too much night riding!

Unfortunately, the climb from Lyell Saddle through the bush (much newer trail) to the ridge-riding was in a right state. It had degraded markedly in the two years since I last rode it. Unlike the older trail below, it just couldn’t handle all the rain in the area (insufficient, and filled, drains that fail to get and keep the water off) – all the fine material had been washed away. This left a very chunky, rocky, loose climb that was far slower and harder going than previously. I was pleased for that replacement tyre I’d borrowed in Westport! Even so, I walked much more than I normally would on such an easy gradient.

Occasional view of the upper Mokihinui Valley.

Hurrah, out of the bush and off the slow surface.

That’s better, more to see too – not quite as clear as previous day, or rides here, alas.

Back west to where we were not twenty-four hours before.

Trying to spot just where we were, cloud not helping.

Ooh, it’s brighter east. Down to the lower Maruia River.

Still climbing, just.

Rocky Tor, which we’d spotted from Denniston Shortcut in clear weather the previous day.

Switching sides of the ridge for the precipitous traverse to Heaven’s Door and the high point.

Still mostly rideable, there are small parts it’s prudent to walk (especially with a loaded bike); also, there are far more fences than when I first rode this section in 2015. Pete’s story of a previous companion falling off the side, breaking a wrist and walking out, was reminder enough not to do so.

The view east from Heaven’s Door.

Now for the drop to Ghost Lake Hut, which soon goes into bush, and a late lunch.

Looking back from the bush to the ridge traverse.

The trail continuing below Ghost Lake Hut.

The drop from the hut to the lake is even more treacherous than previously, so a bit of walking – despite my best attempts.

Such a great place for a hut.

Last time I was here, work was starting on the many tight, heavily rutted switchbacks below the lake so I was wondering if there would be much less walking on a loaded bike this time. Huzzah, an improvement in the trail – barely had to get off my bike, a fair bit of dabbing on each corner though as they’re tight and steep on my bikepacking rig (a dropper post would be useful!).

The snow we could see from Denniston Shortcut now making an appearance.

Out of the switchbacks and looking back to the hut.

Quarter of an hour of climbing to gain Skyline Ridge and open views north to where we were heading.

Down to the Stern Valley, we had six hundred metres to drop in not long. We’d ride along the valley floor, before climbing right through the Boneyard under that mass of rocks that looks ready to let go at any moment and then exiting through the bush at the saddle on left of the centre ridge.

But first we had a ridge to ride along, and then down – more walking here as the track deteriorated again, steep, tight and rutted out.

Bit of a carry down scores of steep steps.

Ooh, trail building – perhaps a way around the Skyline Steps, and ridge (?), has been found…

The descent from the bottom of the steps five hundred metres to Stern Valley Hut was not nearly as fun and flowy as I remembered, but things definitely sped up from here – which was just as well as prevening approached. We didn’t even stop for a cuppa at the hut, just briefly chatting with some hikers and topping up bottles.

Climbing through the Boneyard is far more pleasant without direct sunlight!

Even knowing this time where the trail climbs through here, its exact path is almost as surprising and staggering as the route cut across the exposed ridge of the Lyell Range.

End of the climb through the rocks, back towards Stern Valley from the north end.

The gradient relented for the last little bit of the climb to Solemn Saddle.

Nice to be back in the bush.

Then for the riding highlight of the day, dropping from the saddle to Goat Creek was sublime. Far more flow through beautiful bush, it was quite the reward for all the effort throughout the day. Much fun.

A short detour to spot Goat Creek Hut, but we didn’t fancy fording the creek and getting wet feet just to get closer.

Only eight kilometres to go to Mokihinui Forks Hut, all alongside the south branch of the Mokihinui River. Overall it was flat, but still a few little rises to crest and coast down. Now late in the day, we did the last half of this section in the dark – pleased to get to a sweet little hut. Basic compared to the grand Old Ghost Road ones, it more than met our needs and we reflected on a great day – a bit slower than expected, but can’t go past the spectacular views and the audaciousness of a trail through such country.