All posts by bpheasant

Canada, family, friends, national park, snow

The first week in a lot of snow – Canmore, Canada

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At last – after just over a week in Canada, as chance to sit down on the couch & sort many photos & to remember all that I’ve done in the last ten days. The biggest accomplishment of the early part of the trip was just making it to Heathrow on time. London had got a couple of inches of snow the day before my flight & of course it was wreaking havoc with London’s transport system. As my flight wasn’t until 1330, I gave myself four and a half hours to get across London & check-in (what should be a two hour trip). It was quite novel walking to the station pulling my case through a fair bit of snow. What wasn’t novel was there being no trains through Sidcup to London due to a shortage of drivers. So it was back walking the way I came to catch a bus to Eltham station (on a different branch). By the time I got there, the platforms were full & there were no trains for twenty minutes – when one did arrive it was packed & no one could get on; seeing my chances of getting to Heathrow disappearing with London’s ability to run public transport in a little bit of snow, it was a walk back up the hill to Eltham to see if I might get a bus towards London. I could – but it was painfully slow & it was about now I was pretty sure I would miss a plane for the first time. After a painfully slow DLR ride, I was on the much quicker Jubilee through to Central London & on the slower Picadilly line out to the airport – my chances were improving all the time. I made it with twenty minutes to spare & Air Canada check-in was a breeze (c.f. Virgin Atlantic last time in T3). As the day was quite clear, flying out over a completely snow-covered Britain was absolutely stunning. The flight passed very quickly chatting to the guy next to me, playing cards & watching District 9; Air Canada exceeded my expectations – but that was probably because they were low. Naturally, flying over Canada & Hudson Bay it was just as white as Britain & quite spectacular. Alex kindly picked me up from Calgary (returning the favour of Trish & I dropping him at Gatwick very early in the morning a few months ago). It was cool being in a place where there a few feet of snow everywhere & the roads were still working well. It was just over an hour to Canmore (home for five weeks – about twenty minutes from Banff) & I could just make out the Rockies standing in the darkness. The rest of the night was spent catching up with Megan & Alex & discussing plans for the next few weeks.

Friday, Megan & Alex were both at work so I had a nice relaxing day getting organised, braving the cold & walking in to the big smoke of Canmore – it was a wonderfully clear day & a little bit colder than I was used to London (about -5°C). It took about forty minutes to walk down the side of the Bow Valley, cross the Bow River

– I managed not to slide over or get run over by looking the wrong way when crossing the road (Canadians out here seem to be very courteous to pedestrians & will stop for you if you show the slightest signs of attempting to cross the road). Don’t think I did much except wander around getting my bearings & head back to the grocery-store & buy a few supplies; I’m getting used to London prices, but even so groceries here seemed a tad expensive. Another fair chunk of my day was spent catching up on all the recent third season episodes of The Big Bang Theory – after a couple of self-aware episodes, the hilarity was back.

Megan had Saturday off work, so we went out trying to get a few essentials for Sunday on the skifield (Sunshine). In gear shops in Canmore & Banff we caught up with Adele’s friends James & Craig and later on we met James’s wife, Becca (& I hired skis from her too). Adele had organised to stay with James & Becca when she arrived on Monday & as the furnace in Alex & Megan’s place was driving me mad by waking me up at 0330 & then keeping me awake, I didn’t need much persuasion to join her later the next week. On the way back we stopped at the first big frozen lake that I had seen – Lake Minnewanka, there were people fishing through the ice, others writing big letters by walking through the fresh(ish) snow;

Dinner with Craig & his flatmate, Kelly – enjoyed sharing USA roadtrip photos & my Kenyan ones. Sunday, we were all up early as Alex started work at 0700 (he works at Sunshine) & Megan & I were going to hit the slopes for the day. Alex had organised for me to have a lesson as I had only once previously been skiing & that was a few years ago when Adele was living in Queenstown. Coming from NZ, Sunshine was a huge skifield (www.skibanff.com) which really encompasses three mountains & has twelve lifts – & there was so much snow. As we had a bit of time before my lesson started, Megan took me up the beginner’s lift & sent my down an easy run. It turned out my balance was much better than I thought, which is just as well as my stopping was non-existent & I spent most of the time going side to side down the small valley trying to scrub speed. The lesson (turned out to be a private lesson as I was the only one on it) was great, there was a lot to take in as such sports (or any sports really) don’t come naturally – by 1400 I was knackered & struggling to keep my arms in the right place. I had a few little crashes, nothing too serious but I was surprised that when I fell on my left shoulder (supposedly the good one) it hurt quite a bit – thankfully not another dislocation. I was a lot better by the end of the day (not that that is any measure of ability), very tired, but keen to get up the mountain again.

Lazy Monday morning before James & Becca picked me up for the trip to Calgary to pick up Adele. We had most of the afternoon to spend before Adele arrived – we spent driving around in circles & at a mall. The (ice) hockey store was immense & quite overwhelming; the most amusing shop was the Western shop – I have never seen so many cowboy boots & some of them are just outrageous. Apparently, walking around Calgary can make one feel that you have fallen in to the set of a Western. After a bit of a wait for a late plane, it fantastic to see Adele again – we had a bit of extra time catching up in the car due to me instigating a rather circuitous trip around the NW corner of Calgary, we made it home eventually.

Tuesday was another easy day – a chance for Adele to hopefully get over all the flights, the eight night shifts previous & a bit of sickness. Becca had a split shift day at work, so after we finished the first half we hired skates & went down to the local ice-rink (just a small, shallow frozen pond) – James joined us in his lunch break & I tried to relearn ice-skating.

I made even slower progress than normal – I attribute that to the skates being hockey skates (blades curve up at both ends), as well as me being rather uncoordinated. By now the weather had become positively balmy – well in positives (perhaps as far as 5ºC) & a lot of the snow that I had a seen around town the first few days of my visit had melted. After a couple of hours around town when everyone else had gone back to work, Adele & I went out for a beautiful night skate.

Up at Sunshine on Wednesday, we (Becca, Adele & I, later joined by Alex) found some nice new powder – which the girls quite enjoyed; I found it a bit hard to get used to as it was different to what I had learnt on.

We had a great day on the snow & after the others took me on a few blue runs (one up from the green runs I had been doing) & I had a few inconsequential backward falls, I was more confident to hit the green runs by myself & practise my turns, balance, stopping & let the others go off & try some black runs. I had a blast that day & really enjoyed the progress – another lesson might be in order after another day or two on the slopes. Becca found her favourite patch of powder near the end of the day, so the girls hit that a few times & I eventually got around to it – bit steeper than I was used to, in the end I got halfway down turning before I just gave up & headed straight down towards the big powdery run out. Adele’s exhilaration & amazement of all the snow was very enjoyable to hear. I think we will be back up there quite a bit.

A few different plans were kicked around for Thursday – in the end the weather was sufficiently good enough for James, Becca, Adele & I to head out on a road-trip to the Columbia Icefield (this contains the glacier that James & Becca guided on last summer). We took the TransCanadian Highway past Banff & at Lake Louise (after calling in on a friend working at yet another gear shop) turned off towards the icefield & towards Jasper. We stopped at anything along the way that caught our interest. It was great to be back on snowy roads & Adele & I were amazed by the scenery of the Rockies.

The next stop was at the frozen Bow Lake – we tried to walk the few hundred metres to see the lake in our boots, but stopped half way after getting sick of wading through waist deep powder.

We will be back this way next week for a back-country skiing overnight trip to Bow Hut. Off in the distance we could see the (frozen) Bow Falls that James & Craig have recently climbed. With a few more photos stops we were in to the summer playground of Becca & James – they were intrigued to see rock faces that they climbed during the summer completely covered in ice. Unfortunately, we couldn’t see their glacier as it was covered in cloud – but the wind was fierce & the snow so dry it was drift in quite a large way. After watching a couple of climbers start off on the Weeping Wall,

we continued on to Tangle Falls & the others spent an hour or two climbing up there. I’m still a bit dubious on ice-climbing & what all that work will do to my shoulders, so I was content to take pictures & admire the scenery.

Bit of a slow drive back to Lake Louise, but we quickly had our skates on & were skating around a rather bumpy rink that is in the corner of the lake. The facade of a castle had been built out of ice on the rink, that was quite beautiful – along with all the fairy lights still on the trees in front of the hotel. Dinner with said friend & late home.

Banff called yesterday & we caught a ride in with Craig for the day. A lot of time was spent in various gear shops as Adele ended up buying a touring ski set up. It snowed pretty heavily all day & we enjoyed wandering around in that & checking out various parts of the town – it wasn’t very cold. In some souvenir shop there were some very impressive stuffed animals – bears, moose, wolves, bison & even a couple of pheasants amongst a lot of others. After Adele had successfully given her credit card a thrashing & a couple of lunches, we took Craig’s van up the hill in the snow to the hot pools. It was nice to be driving again & I was surprised at how easy it was to be back on the right hand side. It was some what surreal sitting in a 39ºC pool with big snow flakes falling & melting on one’s head.

around home, bikes, family, friends, London, MTB, national park, UK

Walks, Christmas, a ride & New Year’s

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I’m mildly disturbed that all my bags are packed for a month long trip & my bike is firmly in the garden shed. If the small amount of snow that has fallen today, & whatever falls tonight, doesn’t bring London’s public transport to a standstill before noon I’ll be back at Heathrow & then on to Calgary. It seems ages since I’ve been on a train or the tube – so it’s more than two weeks since I did my last bit of walking around London. That particular time I met up with my NZ cousin Chris & we followed the walking tour from Soho down to Trafalgar Square. Unlike in NYC, the origin of the name Soho is an old hunting cry – Soho Square was once part of a royal hunting ground.This walk wound around quite a bit & went down lots of small old alleys that we would have missed otherwise. Of relevance to NZ was a house that the botanist Joseph Banks used to live in & of most interest to me was the site of the Broad Street pump. In 1854, 37 of the 49 occupants of the street died of cholera & Dr John Snow was the one who worked out that the common factor was the water pump that they drunk from. The handle was removed & the death rate fell immediately – this work was perhaps one of the most important in the study of disease. Walking through Chinatown brought on a very interesting discussion with Chris on their family being in, & then evacuated from, Beijing in 1989 amongst the Tienanmen Square chaos. It wasn’t long before we were at NZ House, Pall Mall & then Trafalgar Square, where Chris left me & I went on up to Regent’s Park.

There was still a fair amount of snow & ice lying around on this particular Sunday, so it was a bit of a careful climb to the top of Primrose Hill. But as it was another nice crisp clear day, it was well worth it – good views of the city with London Zoo & Regent’s Park in the foreground – & some clowns playing touch in the snow. Crossing over Regent’s Canal & past the zoo I seemed to walk around most of Regent’s Park. With all the snow & frozen lakes it was quite beautiful & there were a surprisingly large number of people out & about.

I think it was the Tuesday before Christmas that I popped out to Hammersmith to take a quick look at a small photographic exhibition of Kenyan wildlife. The photos were quite good & mostly scenes at Nakuru & the Mara – so it was nice to see them. However, I wasn’t that enamoured with them to shell out nearly three hundred pounds for each small print. Up the Piccadilly line to drop off a couple of presents for Andrew & Shelley’s girls & then I was off to check out the Christmas Fair in Hyde Park. With all the German stalls, great smelling food & amusements it was a very Christmasy experience.

Thankfully it didn’t snow on Christmas Eve, so the drive down to Trish’s sister’s house just north of Dover was very easy. Jan cooked up a storm & it was a great day spent with family. As it was a gorgeous day I couldn’t help but go for an explore – so a short drive later I was at the top of the famous cliffs. It was a little strange seeing eight ferries sitting in the port doing nothing. But much more impressive was the sunset – I stuck around a good half hour to see it go all the way down. Back home very early on Boxing Day; later that day we went around to Trish’s brother’s for another great dinner.

After a couple days relaxing & getting the bike ready, I was off driving to Taunton to stay with John & Anna the night before what promised to be a very wintery ride on Exmoor on Wednesday. Since I last saw them, the Lambert family has doubled in size with the arrival of twin girls three months ago & their house has much more than doubled in size with the move from an apartment to a two-storey house. It was great to see John & Anna again & meet the girls – a little sick, but thankfully they seem to sleep well (one night is hardly a representative sample, but I was impressed). With a leisurely two breakfasts & getting organised, John & I drove an hour through very close fog to Withymoor – where we eventually met up with four others. Well wrapped up against the cold (we would have been lucky if it got to three degrees Celsius), mud & rain we set off through the village trying to follow a route that Dave had plotted on his Garmin GPS. Mr Garmin was to provide us with much amusement in the rain as he sent us all around the National Park on the most unlikely trails (or non-trails). A nice gentle & reasonable climb to start before we got off the road & on to the grass & tracks – with all the rain the day before, we were quickly soaked by all the standing water.

We had some good fun, but thankfully gentle, & slippery downhills.

In all we were out about three or so hours & I had a complete blast – it was at least six weeks since I had been on my bike & therefore six weeks since I did my shoulder, I was very pleased with how it stood up to the ride.

Unfortunately, by the time we got to the pub they had finished serving lunch. Back to John & Anna’s for a much needed bike, clothes & body clean; a quick dinner then it was driving through the night & rain to get back to Andrew & Shelley’s before they all went to bed. I’m always surprised at how well I manage to sleep on the floor of their lounge.

New Year’s Eve – spent a delightful four or five hours babysitting (two year old) Vittoria – reading books, pretend cooking, chasing her around the house & (the best game of all) pretending to be asleep. After Andrew & Shelley returned I was rather worn out – mostly from babysitting, but perhaps a little for the driving & riding the previous two days. A quick escape for another exploratory walk – this time to the rather delightful little centre of Pinner. We were joined for a quiet New Year’s Eve by a friend of the Patricks & we enjoyed a good meal, a strange game of Settlers (never seen so many long roads with four people playing), slight excitement when the new year ticked over, more excitement when Andrew touched the cork on the champagne & it went flying & champagne went all over Shelley & the Settlers set.

New Year’s Day was a gorgeous one, if very chilly – and also Andrew’s birthday. The six of us went out for a walk around a rather frozen in part lake & Vittoria amused us all by skating on the ice in her wellies whilst hanging on to the safety net of Dad’s hand. Lazy afternoon & then I babysat the girls again while Andrew & Shelley escaped for a birthday dinner. A nice cross London drive after they returned & I was back in Sidcup by eleven, ready for a sleep in my own bed & facing another drive – this time north. Trish & I spent the weekend staying with another of cousin of Mum’s – very pleasant weekend it was too. A little bike riding around the village, dropped in on my great-uncle Alan (who for almost ninety, is doing remarkably well living on his own & looking after himself). For dinner we met yet another cousin of Mum’s (three cousins, but no brothers or sisters present) & also my second cousin, Catherine & her boyfriend, Chris. Catherine & Chris have recently been to NZ & Australia, so it was great to hear their stories. That’s about it really for the last few weeks – the last few days have been spent recovering from the week before & mostly preparing for Canada.

Asia, bikes, family, MTB, travel

From the archive – Thailand & Nepal – IV

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[The diary that I compiled during our visit to Adele in Nepal in January & February 2008 came up in conversation the other day. As far as I know only Mum & I have ever read it – so here is part of it for posterity, the photos are complimentary – yeah, they are for free.]

9/2/8 Pokhara

Large breakfast at Mike’s, tried to sort out our huge amounts of gear for the trip home – it is one big mess on our floor at the moment, and that is without my bike. Cleaned mud & my blood off my bike. Dad & I & random Belgian girl from Blue Planet went to International Mountaineering museum – a quiet day all round.

10/2/8 Pokhara

Up for ride up to World Peace Stupa/Pagoda on the hill opposite Lakeside. Nice clear morning with good views of the mountains. An hour riding to almost the summit (the stupa is below the summit) – half an hour up main road to Tanseng, then half an hour up rocky track through one or two villages. On the way down great views of the Annapurnas & Pokhara & the lake – a few photo stops. A nice mixture of gravel track, rocky technical singletrack, stone steps & flowy singletrack through forest. Six kilometres down in all – good fun.

Not much else for the rest of the day – a farewell lunch for Adele with her INF mates, Skyped Mum in Sydney & dinner at Monsoon.

11/2/8 Pokhara

Breakfast at Mike’s again as everyone is busy at Blue Planet getting ready for Madu’s wedding. Repacking bike for third time in three weeks. Adele dressed up in kurta for the wedding. As I hadn’t shaved since before trekking, I popped down to the barbers for a shave & haircut. The first five minutes of my haircut, I could have been in a Python sketch – the guy was snip-snip-snipping away merrily but I could feel nothing & see no hair coming off my head in the mirror. The only thing missing (I think) was the homicidal maniac resisting the urge to cut my head off.

Dad & I tried to catch a taxi to the temple on the other side of town. The driver had to get directions from someone else before we left & then managed to drop us at a Buddhist monastery (incidentally, I finished reading “Seven Years in Tibet” this morning). Never mind, ten minutes walk & a few turns later we were at the bottom of a large flight of stairs that led up a large forested hill – at the top of which sat the temple. There wasn’t one large temple at the top; rather, there were a few small temple buildings & a fair amount of open paved ground.

It took Dad & I a while to find which wedding to go to as it was like a common wedding ground. Perhaps there were seven to ten separate weddings today – as it is the last good day of the Nepali/Hindu month to get married. Eventually we saw some badeshis (foreigners – one of the few Nepalese words I know) we recognised & headed over to see what was the go. The bride was beautifully dressed in red with a lot of sequins sparkling in the sun waiting with her friends & family for the groom to turn up (c.f. Western wedding).

After we had spent some time looking at all that was going on & sussed out some of the other weddings in progress, the food started. Somewhat sceptical of the Nepali food prepared en masse & served outside, I only had half a plate for a change & Dad only really had rice.

As we finished eating the first part of the ceremony started with some ritual of the bride sitting on the ground in front of a small fire surrounded by plates of food & her father & uncles doing I don’t know what. Eventually the groom appeared & the priest (I assume he was) started the ceremony proper. It was all very solemn & the priest sounded like he was arguing (that would be the five minute argument, please) with others around him. It was all very strange as there was only a small throng around the bride & groom (mostly us curious westerners), while every one chowed down on the feast some distance away or talked on their cellphones. I still have no understanding of what happened. The bride & groom ate (after everyone else already had) & then there was more ceremony, still no smiles & much putting of red dye on the ‘happy’ couple’s foreheads. Dad & I left about here & went back to the important task of cleaning & packing up my bike.

When Adele arrived back exhausted, we went for a paddle on a hired boat on a very still Phewa Tal. Then our best dinner yet in Nepal at Bistro Caroline with a Dutch friend of Adele’s.

12/2/8 Pokhara – Kathmandu

All packed up, goodbyes to all at Blue Planet & Shyam took us on our final taxi ride to Pokhara airport. True to form, the flight was due to be at least an hour late to bad weather in Kathmandu, or perhaps they had sent the planes elsewhere – I never really worked out which one. After an exhaustive manual search of our luggage (no X-Ray machine) – in which it was determined that my bike, was in fact a bike – we waited out the weather on the rooftop balcony in the sun. As we were drinking yet another pot of Nepali milk tea, who should turn up but some of Adele’s INF friends? Al was flying to Kathmandu, then somewhere else & her husband Phil & daughter Evie were seeing her off.

Their company somewhat helped to pass the time as we saw microlights land & take off & the Jonsom flight leave, return & leave again. Eventually, three flights from Kathmandu arrived at once & we were in the air one and a half hours later. Yet another pleasant twenty-five minute Yeti flight with great views of the Himalayas to the north.

Once we arrived in Kathmandu, Adele was keen to head out to Bhaktapur. Due to various reasons, we didn’t leave until after 1500 – a forty-five minute drive – but was worth it to arrive in the old city with some places having no vehicles – & therefore no horns, bliss!

Had a good wander around & I took Adele & Dad through some small back street before we met our driver at 1800.

The Kathmandu traffic back was diabolical – for no other reason that there are insufficient roads, no road rules observed & no enforcement if there were any rules. We got back after a hundred minutes.

Great steak dinner & surprisingly quick meals at the Everest Steak House.

13/2/8 Kathmandu – Bangkok

Adele’s final Nepali shopping in Thamel, then off to Kathmandu airport for quick check-in & then long wait for flight to Bangkok. Pleasant enough flight back in to the heat of Bangkok. Adele marvelled at every item of food at the buffet after three months in Nepal – much to my amusement. Nice to be away from Kathmandu – the powercuts had got to eight hours per day.

14/2/8 Bangkok

Wandered around getting Adele orientated with Bangkok & shopping/browsing at the same time. Adele & I booked a day trip for tomorrow – a bus ride out into the country, look at the royal summer palace & temples (some ruined, some not).

15/2/8 Bangkok

Up before 0600 for breakfast & tour. A minivan picked us up & drove us around town for half an hour until we rendezvoused with our coach at some other hotel. Quickly on to motorway out of town west & leaving Bangkok behind eventually. Past large flat paddies (c.f. with the small, stepped rice paddies in Nepal).

We first visited the summer palace at Bang Pa In – lots of magnificent buildings for all the royals to stay in – one donated by the Chinese, one with a distinctly European style.

Adele particularly like the animal shaped topiaries (especially the elephants).

Next on to one of Thailand’s four capitals – Ayuthaya (1350-1767). This was all in ruins as the Burmese invaded in 1767 & destroyed a lot of it. Still some very large ruins of brick temples & stupas remain. Most of the many Buddhas are sitting down without any heads. On to other temples where we saw a greenstone Buddha, a gold Buddha & the third largest reclining Buddha.

Finally made it to the boat after 1300 (sick of getting in & out of coach by now), where we had a large buffet lunch & a pleasant three hour cruise in to the city.

16/2/8 Bangkok

Down to the tailors to get Adele’s pants – she was most pleased with them. Adele was keen to get a tuk-tuk on the way back, but there weren’t many around & every one we approached wanted to take us somewhere else except our hotel. We gave up & got at $2 (equivalent) taxi instead.

Lunch at hotel & then me Alex & Sarah van Meygaarden in lobby. Alex was my metalwork teacher in my first year at high school. They are now missionaries here in Bangkok with Rahab (as are the MacGregors – who unfortunately are back in NZ now; it turns out that they only live about 500m from our hotel). It was good to catch up with the Vans & hear some of their stories of Bangkok & Nepal. Alex told of a mega computer mall just around the corner, so I had to check it out. It was crazy – six storeys of computers, ripped software & DVDs, components & of course people everywhere! Home tomorrow!

17/2/8 Bangkok – Auckland

There must have been some of the famed Australian wine Shateau de Chunder on the menu last night – it really opens up the sluices at both ends. So we are not so sure Adele will make the 12 hour flight home. Not much happening, Adele bunged herself up with med’s & we made the flight home.

18/2/8 Auckland

Home – with little sleep!

Asia, family, hiking, national park

From the archive – Thailand & Nepal – III

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[The diary that I compiled during our visit to Adele in Nepal in January & February 2008 came up in conversation the other day. As far as I know only Mum & I have ever read it – so here is part of it for posterity, the photos are complimentary – yeah, they are for free.]

3/2/8 Trekking

Up at 0600 to catch plane to Jonsom with our guide, KB. Too much cloud, so we can’t go to Jonsom. Mum leaves us today – one night in Kathmandu & then on to see the Hinds in Sydney.

So a eighty to ninety minute taxi ride with Shyam deposited us at the start of our circuit (modified a lot as we can’t go to Jonsom). The first couple of hours were spent walking up a river valley from about 1000m altitude. After a long lunch, the climbing really started, but the path was well made using lots of stone – quite incredible how good it was.

Walked through many fields & the tiering of the fields was amazing. By 1630 we were at Ghandruk – after many steps & a few rests. We have climbed almost 1000m to 1950m. This was quite a shock for us all, especially Dad, as we were expecting to walk down from Muktinah after a jeep ride from Jonsom!

Pleasant guesthouse – great hot shower & dinner – part with KB. He spent eleven years from age eight washing dishes at a Kathmandu guesthouse before he started guiding. He has also spend two and a half years in France – his French & English are very good.

4/2/8 Monday Trekking

Forgot to mention that while paragliding on Friday, Pierre & I saw an occidental rainbow when were up in the clouds. This is a circular rainbow viewed from above, apparently they are not seen by many.

Awoke in Ghandruk (actually awoke numerous time due to barking dogs in the night) to find that the clouds had finally cleared & we could see the mountains! A nice clear crisp morning & we could see all the way to Annapurna South & Fishtail (I may be able to say its real name – but I sure can’t spell it). A leisurely breakfast, then set off at 0845 for a comparatively short & easy walk to Tadapani (a climb of only about 600m today).

We quickly left the immaculate stone path & steps of yesterday & the path devolved in to something much more like what we would find in NZ – steps made out of wood & held by stakes.

As we were walking through forest/bush (c.f. with fields of yesterday) we saw far fewer Nepalis & houses. At our first stop we saw a family from Lake Hayes (back home). There were five of them – three boys, the youngest in a backpack. Next we saw an inordinate number of porters, but no trekkers. Eventually we find a very large group of Japanese trekkers sprawled over one of the few clearings. By now we are seeing patches of snow on the ground.

Our next stop was at the top of a very steep staircase. Here the Cokes were most welcome & we met a medical student from Perth – she is doing a similar thing to what Adele has just finished.

During the last hour to Tadapani the snow got more & more prevalent & it was quite fresh & nice & powdery. At times it was difficult to negotiate the slippery downs – but there were not so many of them! As we were behind a ridge, our view of the mountains had disappeared & when we emerged from the forest the clouds had covered our view again.

Tadapani is a pretty little settlement of mainly guesthouses (about six). There is no water here at the moment – except if you cook up a pot of snow. There are more trekkers staying here than at Ghandruk last night (most people seem to be going the opposite way to us). Some have come down from Poon Hill – they had good views this morning.

5/2/8 The Day We Almost Killed Dad

Up at 0645 after broken sleep – Nepali singing to start with & then too warm. Did not mention that we spent most of yesterday afternoon in the dining room as underneath the table (that was cloaked with think blankets) were steel buckets of hot coals – very toasty. Another beautiful morning – fewer clouds than yesterday & once again great views – many photos taken.

Started walking at 0830 & were immediately into a steep snowy, & therefore slippery, descent. Once we reached a stream it was back into a steep slippery ascent. By now, both Dad & I had taken small falls & all three of us were walking with sticks. Still there is a lot of snow around & I generally find it easier to walk on the powder than the icy steps.

After a brief stop for Coke & Fanta, the track levelled a bit & then went down for a while. Unfortunately for Dad, after this it went up & up a valley (quite steeply in places & very slippery) that never ended. Eventually we reached lunch & Dad was stuffed & Adele carrying his backpack as well as hers. We had lost our view of the mountains, but seen many waterfalls frozen in situ.

Shortly after our long lunch break the trail flattened out some & a few new peaks came in to view. The trail was now along a ridge – so undulating walking around 3300m, the highest I have ever been with my feet on the ground. By now we could see Annapurna I – the tallest of the Annapurnas at 8091m – behind & to the left of Annapurna South. Also visible a bit further away were the Dhaulagiris – the tallest of which, Dhaulagiri I is 8172m. Numerous stops to take photos & wait for Dad along the ~500m descent to Ghorepani.

There are many more guesthouses, & larger ones too, & for the princely sum of seventy rupees we have a view of Annapurna I & South & Dhaulagiri I from our room.

6/2/8 Trekking

Adele & I up at 0445 – along with most of the rest of the guesthouse (Dad & KB excepted) for the walk up to Poon Hill lookout for sunrise. All wrapped & out in to the dark & the not so cold before 0530. The climb was a good five or six hundred metres with many headlamps bobbing up the hillside – similar sight to doing the Moonride. Unfortunately, I had made the mistake of not having anything to eat. Part way up I started to feel clammy, devoid of energy & could not go on until I had dry wretched a few times, brought up some bile & then had half a muesli bar. Slowly my energy returned & we made it to the top. It was still dark, but starting slowly to get light. We were eventually joined by about fifty other sunrise pilgrims to see a great sunrise on some of the world’s tallest mountains.

Back down, we had a leisurely breakfast outside in the sun & left Ghorepani at 1000 for a gentle (mostly) walk down the valley toward Tatopani (tomorrow night’s stop). The stone pathway returned (not quite up to the same standard as the first day – but still pretty good) & it was only icy & snowy in parts for the first hour or so. Still good views of most of the mountains, but getting in to inhabited land with the odd village & more paddies.

We are staying in Shikha, which for a nice change is much more village than guesthouse destination. There are numerous stone houses & a school here. Adele & I had a small wander around the back roads (more alley ways). A great shower & we also had lunch on the rooftop in the sun looking at Dhaulagiri I. Mercifully, we are the only guests in the guesthouse – c.f. the last two nights.

7/2/8 Trekking

Up & away by 0830 – a nice walk down the valley from Shikha to Tatopani for three hours. We lost about a thousand metres in altitude. Nice to walk through the villages & past the children on the way to school – ten o’clock start. Our last glimpses of the Annapurnas as we get deeper in to the valley – still mostly the big stone steps & paths, although it is quite a dusty trail in places. Dad managed to get a few agricultural photos – piles of dung in fields that will be used for fertiliser & a cow & calf in a milking shed.

Down at the bottom of the valley we crossed the Ghar Khola river & then the much larger (unnamed on the map) river on swing bridges & walked up the valley a short way to Tatopani. This last bit was on the newly made & graded road. This is much less interesting & we are going to head back to Pokhara tomorrow, instead of Saturday. Soaked in hot springs/pool late in the afternoon.

8/2/8 Trekking – Pokhara

It’s our last day – up & left by 0820 (our earliest yet) after a good sleep. Walking down the new road down the valley the whole way. It was quite a deep gorge in places & would have been a spectacular walk on the old stone path.

The valley was still really spectacular when one remembered to look up from the road at the steep walls & behind us to Jonsom & the odd mountain still visible. The road is pretty wide in places & almost complete. We saw a group of about fifteen men breaking rocks in to gravel with small hammers. Also a twenty tonne excavator finishing off part of the road next to the river – quite a juxtaposition in technologies.

In places there were jeeps, motorbikes, taxis & quite a few people walking. In other places there was just us & a random stray dog that followed us for ages. By lunch we had all, especially Dad, had enough of walking on the boring road & got a jeep (an old Nissan Patrol) to Beni & then taxi ride of death back to Pokhara.