Decidedly uncomfortable for the first half hour pre-dawn, I may have gone numb for the second as the relatively flat valley floor riding continued. After seven I warmed as the sky lightened and the hills started. But I then climbed into a layer of fog and was chilled again. The stars disappeared from view as the increasing light revealed what I already knew – it was downright frosty.
It was probably warmer among the mob of sheep waiting to lose their fleeces. Until they lost their fleeces.
The level of fog was stark as the sun rose and slowly crept down the hills opposite.
No stopping at the Tiniroto Tavern this time, far too early. Realising I’d not ridden Ruakaka Rd from the south, I thought I’d better if I want to put it in this year’s HBAT. Ruakaka is very good and there were no vehicles to be seen; the most activity I saw was some farm-kids feeding their horses. The climb back up to Tiniroto was not as big as I remembered from bombing down it in February, that aided me in getting to the sea-level outskirts of Gisborne by noon. I’m glad I’ve found a couple of gravel alternatives through this way; the sealed Tiniroto Road has become rather boring to me now.
The gas station at Manutuke was the lunch stop, and a disappointing one at that. One thing in the pie warmer, and I had to ask what it was. Turns out a BBC is a Beef, Bacon & Cheese Roll – a glorified sausage roll that may have, to look at it, been kept warm for the best part of a week. The friendly roaming dog didn’t even show interest in it. An hour of lazy, flat valley floor riding with the sun on my back, no wind and no traffic was an easy start to the afternoon – before the lifestyle blocks turned to sheep and beef hill country, and pines started to appear.
Back on gravel, it was a bit of a mess. Strangely, there were work crews out on a Saturday fixing up the road from logging truck damage. I had quite a chat to one of them, trying to explain and counter their disbelief as to why I was riding a loaded bike up there. Ignoring roadsigns of questionable legality (the gates were open after all), deeper into the forest I climbed.
Pleased and surprised, I found swathes of native bush on the eastern side of the road. There was no-one to be found and I had the place and views to share only with wood pigeons. Glimpses of Hawke Bay to the south on occasion had me looking toward Mahia, where I hoped I’d make it before I ran out of energy. Ticking along casually, I was well aware I’d not ridden a loaded bike for six months and I may be out of gas before expected.
Dropping, I popped out in the middle of a section of highway I can’t remember ever being on – bit odd considering it’s only a hundred kilometres from home. A short section of that to Wharerata took me past a lookout I’d heard much mention of.
Poverty Bay with Gisborne on the left, and Young Nicks Head in the centre.
Turning south, gravel ridge riding didn’t provide much in the way of views as it was mostly pine-lined. After ten kilometres, the road slid closer and closer to the Unformed moniker in Unformed Legal Road. With a little hike-a-bike around and over treefall, the fast-approaching sunset loomed larger in my mind. Out of the forestry and over a gate, I was into the farmland that would take me down to Mahanga.
My, where did all this mud come from?! Confronted with vast patches of it, suddenly I was going to be out well after dark. Oh well. However, it seems this is quite different to the wheel-binding mud of southern Hawke’s Bay. It was hardly slippery, and not at all sticky. Not having rained for a couple of days, when one couldn’t ride around it on the grass, it was negotiable. Slowed, but not too much, my crossing to the eastern (coastal) side of the hills was a continual balance of risk and reward – slow through the mud, or riding the narrow grass verge on the edge of the hill.
As the sun sunk, I was pleased to find myself riding with this guy again.
Off the ridge line, the mud lessened markedly and riding down the track quickened.
Close to the coast now, looking north of Gisborne.
Dropping down to Mahanga as the sun sets on Mahia Peninsula – I was pretty sure I’d make it across the isthmus just before dark.
Indeed I did, and mightily pleased I’d not be spending the rapidly cooling night in a ditchbound bivy bag. I was pretty had it, and was surprised to find myself more than a little queasy – it hadn’t been at all hot, yet my classic end-of-a-long day symptoms appeared. Thankfully they are easily overcome and I rested well.
Closing the loop back to my car was a far simpler affair – only eighty-odd kilometres, all of which I knew, much of it lovely gravel backroads. Rest seemed more important than dragging myself up a big climb as the sun rose, so I slept in a little and watched the sun rise over the lagoon. Climbing Tunanui Road didn’t seem as steep from the east; even so, I was a little disappointed the Nuhaka store wasn’t open at nine – an ice cream would have gone down well.
Hereheretau Rd however had a far steeper climb riding it in the reverse direction. No matter, it was conquered and the cruise down alongside the Makaretu was sublime and the climb out of the valley was really quite nice.
Strange to be back at the car around midday, there was plenty of time for eating, driving home and even cleaning the mud off my bike. Seemed somewhat indulgent, a waste of good fine winter riding weather. Another successful HBAT scouting trip done, this year’s route is slowly coming together and I always love riding the hills of northern Hawke’s Bay.
Those hills on the coast became more familiar the following day.
The northern face of the Kawekas, with some rare snow.
North over the Mohaka and stretching towards Whirinaki.
Mahia Peninsula in the background, must get back there.
Yup, more hills.
Partway up the first climb, looking down on the farmhouse; Cape Kidnappers on the horizon.
My path was level, briefly – but still surrounded by hills.
Welcoming party to another farmhouse, now unused, and with no road access. Private beach is pretty good, but.
Fair warning of the start of the next climb.
I found myself atop cliffs earlier than expected.
They may have been subsiding a little; looking toward Wairoa.
That’s the way I was heading, after the summit.
Those twelve kilometres only took two hours. Eight hundred metres of climbing, with a fair bit of descent (some of that also hike-a-bike), was a solid start to the day’s loop. Napier just visible in the centre, the three peaks behind Havelock North also just there.
One of the reasons I love being up there.
A few more, littler, hills.
Bell Rock is up in the cloud covered hills.
Cape Kidnappers from the end of my street.
Guess I won’t be downtown for
Those three houses always catch my eye from afar.
Looking back towards my little corner of the hill.
There’s still a little bit of work for these tugs…
The cliffs I was on top of last week above the container ship.
Go get it!
Got it.
Over Ahuriri fuel storage, the estuary, and Poraiti towards the Kaweka Ranges.
Those cliffs.
A touch of the old sawtooth warehouses.
Indeed.
Starting to look like the season is changing on Waipunga Rd, looking west to the Maungaharuru Range and the saddle we rode over the previous weekend.
Down Darky’s Spur; twenty kilometres of gravel about to end, no vehicles to be seen on those.
The northern reaches of the bay, around to Mahia Peninsula. Pleased to have such clear views.
Across to Napier and around to Cape Kidnappers, not quite as clear.
East, to South America somewhere out there.
Across the Waikare and Mohaka River mouths north.
As good a place as any to turn and head to ride the same hills in the reverse direction, and more resupply at Tutira.
Part-way up the only more-concerted climb to get back to the highway.
More signs of autumn across the Esk Valley; funnily enough, the dry conditions haven’t been in the news as much recently.
Bonus sunset to top the day off.