All posts by bpheasant

Mangatutu Two Hot Springs S24O

In what may become a December tradition, I was keen to repeat my Mangatutu Hot Springs overnight ride of last year. With all that’s been going on and an upcoming week on call for work & then Christmas – last weekend was the only one left. The forecast looked fair (just a few showers later afternoon Saturday) and I managed to get all packed in an hour, with some encouragement, in the morning. However I got a bit sidetracked(ed) early afternoon, which was OK as it was so hot, and didn’t leave until after two o’clock.

I rode the same route as last year, so will try not to repeat myself too much. As I knew how long it should take me, I figured I had plenty of time; I was also in a photo-taking mood. The northerly was strong and very warm.

Looking north-east as I climb before reaching Glengarry Road.

Shortly after, looking towards the Kawekas and bit of cloud.

There seem to be a few stud farms up near Rissington – these Charolais.

Climbing more, it’s proper humid – this looking south.

Looking back east, back down the road I’m following – the hills are getting bigger. Much climbing, slightly less descent.

Nearing Patoka, the light rain I’d been enjoying got heavier. I sheltered in a small bus shelter trying to work out if it would pass. It didn’t. Putting on my rain gear I carried on.

Through Puketitiri the rain eased & then stopped. I was only half-heartedly pursued by the same fox terrier that harassed me with such speed last year. I was rewarded with a glorious rainbow.

More glorious green hills – it really is wonderful up there.

Passing Ball’s Clearing, the gravel finally started. I was starting to get concerned that the sky was darkening and I’d spent so long taking photos, that I might be a bit later than intended. Thankfully I’d stashed a bacon and egg pie in my frame bag on my way through Napier. I had that for first dinner, needing the energy – but not feeling that hungry. I was sitting around 600 m of elevation, climbing in general, when the rain came back as a light mist. It set in, so all the rain gear went back on. It was still rather hot as I was riding straight into the northerly.

The views were a bit different to last year – but I was still in high spirits, if not thoroughly wet – not for the first time that day.

I reached the top of a large descent that took me into another valley before turning off to Makahu Rd and the hot springs.

There’s only eleven kilometres left to ride, out of seventy-nine, but three significant hills to climb. The first is so steep the gravel has been sealed.

I paused near the first crest to see how all the livestock were coping – completely unperturbed would be the answer.

The rain continued as I plunged down to the only ford that must be negotiated – I got wetter feet, but at least the river was warm. Next was the longest steep climb of the day – now in dusk, it was so hot I rode up there (it goes on & on) without my helmet or hood on. A couple of cars heading for the pools passed me. Through the private farmland down to the last bridge and there stood another steep climb. That surpassed it was downhill to the campsite at around sunset.

I quickly put my tent up and somehow managed to light my small meths burner in the rain and cook dinner. I crawled into my tent, trying to keep all my dry things as dry as possible and ate dinner there. Now dry, the thought of going out in the rain to the hot springs didn’t appeal – so I listened to wonderful podcasts and was pleased at how this little adventure turned out. I remembered the delight my grandfather took in, as explained in his short autobiography, overcoming the elements when on a bike. This was hardly English cold or rain – but it felt good all the same. The rain continued to fall as I drifted to sleep.

After one of the better night’s sleep I’d had recently, I was up and about early enough under a clear blue sky. Having not been able to finish dinner the previous night, I had the strange taste of freeze-dried chicken curry for breakfast (not for the first time I must admit – Kiwi Brevet Day Two comes to mind). I had the hot springs to myself as I soaked aching muscles and cares away.

A peak of the Mohaka River from the pools – it’s not a bad spot, at all.

I faffed around a bit waiting for the sun to dry out some of my soaked gear – that worked a bit, but eventually I admitted defeat and packed away a lot of wet gear. Setting off before nine o’clock, it was straight into the steep climbs on the gravel.

Looking back towards the northern end of the Kawekas.

Back onto the main road, I went back up yesterday’s plunge – a little bit of a contrast to five photos above.

It’s shearing time, I watched for some time the ebbs and flows of this mob of sheep being herded. It was a strangely relaxing sight as the dogs and shepherds worked away. Sheep in yards and the buzz of shears were a regular occurrence for the rest of the ride back to town.

The setting may have helped some.

Back through Puketitiri, I stopped at the local Par 3 golf course for water and was a little sad about declining rural communities.

I was eager to get home and somehow managed the return trip on half of last night’s dinner and few handfuls of scroggin/trail mix. The sou-wester was even stronger than the northerly of the day before, but my legs were up to it – even if my poor stomach had no idea what it was feeling. Home easily in less than twenty-four hours, I was thankful for the escape of micro-adventures as I set about washing and drying everything. An excellent little trip – I think making that a regular December trip is a good idea; although perhaps I should check the Kaweka forecast more carefully in the future.

Australia Daze

Hardly having recovered from a great four days of riding the Geyserland Gravel Grind, on came the sudden but ultimately unsurprising news of the passing of my last surviving grandparent. Thus set in progress a few weeks of excessive traveling (compared to my now low level), tiredness and turmoil that I’ve not recovered from yet. My grandfather had emigrated to Sydney in 1964 with his family (that being my mother’s family) and never left. So a whirlwind trip ensued with late-flight bookings, all a week before I was due to go to Victoria for a week of visiting best-friends-from-Canada – who were back all too briefly.

So we Pheasants from NZ congregated at the family home, of over fifty years, near Parramatta with my uncle and aunt and prepared for the funeral. It was very hot, as it usually was when visiting my grandparents. There were plenty of photos to go through and stories to share. Somehow I’d been nominated as Pheasant speaker, so I really had to sort out my memories and impressions of a man I didn’t really spend that much time with – having grown up so far away. But I managed and the cycling connection & inspiration were particularly meaningful to me. Friday was hot again and we Kiwis wilted; however, the funeral went as well as could be expected and I managed to deliver my speech more fluently than writing and practicing it.

Suddenly, I was back in NZ – overnighting in Auckland at dear friends’ house again – and home to get through a week of work. It was a tough week and I was in no mood to drive to Wellington and fly to Melbourne very early Saturday morning. I don’t remember much of that week and within an hour of starting the drive I had to pull over for a micro-nap. All was well after that and I was well looked after, slept deeply and then got up at 3.30 am for the early morning flight.

Reunited with best-sister at Melbourne airport, we loaded all our gear (my bike and Adele’s climbing gear – heavier than my bike bag!) into the rental car (brand new – ten kilometres on the odometer) and headed west. Tired and hungry, we stopped in Ballarat for an early pancake lunch – yum! Although the extravagant amounts of whipped butter were disturbing. Some time mid-afternoon we arrived at the Arapiles – I’m told the best place for trad. rock-climbing in Australia and a small mecca for climbers the world over. When Adele found out, eventually – communication and knowledge of my exact plans were not strong – that I was coming here for a week, there was no way she was missing out. We met her friends Claire & Reg at the campground. They went for a little climb, I slept in the tent.

Rocks – a little part of Mt Arapiles (it’s more of a hill) rising out of the surrounding plains.

Sunday was a miserable day of weather, some time was spent in the shelter avoiding the rain and mist – I assembled my bike for something to do, and it needed doing of course. We popped into the closest town, Natimuk, for something else to do. We wandered, there was a fair bit of the town’s history displayed on signs around the place – so that was interesting.

A rather burnt out, roofless old shop.

Ready for launch. Oh, about thirty years ago.

Things cleared a little by Monday morning, although it was very windy overnight – or just seemed that way in the tent. The others climbed and Reg left to return to NZ. I’d heard of the Arapiles Big Sky Trail, so set out to explore that. I had a pretty easy run into town, mostly downhill and then flat past plenty of fields.

I eventually found the house where Megan, Alex & Finn were staying. Reunited finally after over three and a half years – excitement! Finn was an awful lot bigger, not unexpected, and had developed quite a Canadian accent; Megan & Alex didn’t seem to have grown much or changed their accents. Making plans for a bit of climbing in the afternoon, I left too soon and headed back on the trail to camp for lunch. The northern side of the loop was much less well-maintained and I slowed. Recent rain had both damaged the surface and really got the grass growing.

Watch for snakes. Yeah right, I could hardly even see the trail – let alone a snake.

Mt Arapiles off over the fields.

The trail actually went up a little hill. There is Mitre Lake – with water in it, a most unusual sight I’m told. The trail around the edge of the lake was extremely muddy and I struggled to push my bike through it as my shoes picked up a thick layer of mud, as did my tyres – so much so that the wheels would not turn.

I rode past Mitre Rock and back to camp. The “Canadians” turned up and we all went back to Mitre Rock to join Lincoln & Al (they’d arrived from Canberra, very excited they have an international airport now #canberrainternational; they’d also stayed for six-ish weeks in the house I was living in in Canada in 2011 – so good to see them again) for some easy climbing.

Adele was pleased to lead me up an easy route.

It was enjoyable, until I subluxed my shoulder (the one that hasn’t had surgery). In some discomfort, I did somehow get to the top of the first pitch without popping it completely. Claire followed me up.

You can just see Natimuk in this picture. I rested my shoulder a bit, swore off rock-climbing for ever (not much of a hardship for me) and we decided I’d abseil down using my good arm.

I was a bit glum and sore from almost wrecking my other shoulder, so returned to camp. The discomfort took a few days to disappear, but all is well now.

Some of the locals hopped through camp.

Tuesday morning was miserable again, so we headed into the larger town of Horsham to resupply and swim & shower. It cleared markedly in the afternoon. Megan was excited to get her hands on a bike, so we headed up the summit road to check out the view of the surrounds.

Past not completely harvested fields….

Up the hill; staged shot you say? Nonsense.

At the top, I looked at things.

This is one of the things I saw, damn Mitre Lake and all its mud again. Not to mention Mitre Rock in front of it, that almost ruined my shoulder. Not bitter at all.

After so long, there was some catching-up to be done – especially after Grandad’s passing (Megan & I only know each other because our grandparents were great friends, having been in the same cycling club in London in the 1940s). So the summit was a good spot for that, it was mostly free of the flies & mosquitoes lower down at the campground.

A perfect little ride down – interesting scenery, warmth but not the heat that was to come, no wind, no traffic…

We rejoined the others climbing at a smaller crag partway down the road.

Alex found a rather placid stumpy-tailed lizard; Finn was keen to take it back to Canada as a pet. Consensus was it wouldn’t survive the winters.

Wednesday I got up as the sun rose on the rock; I had a grand adventure in the Grampians. A hundred kilometre gravel ride, during which I didn’t see a soul for four or five hours.

Thursday morning Alex borrowed my bike; in exchange I was schooled in the ways of Pokemon-something. But there were other rewards, the best/only strong cup of tea I had all week for one.

Adele & Claire kept climbing things.

Spot the climber/sister – it gets progressively more difficult.

Thursday was the hottest day of the week, 34ÂșC, so we Kiwis went into Horsham again for respite in the afternoon.

I remembered the concept of sundowners from being on safari. I stashed a large bottle of stout in my frame bag and it was back up to the summit again – I almost expired in the heat. There were a lot of clouds, and possibly even more mosquitoes – I was eaten, some of the bites still show. So memorable for reasons unexpected. A kangaroo leapt right in front of me as I rode back to camp in the dark – quite a fright, especially after the deer the previous day.

Friday the weather was a bit pants again. After mooching around in the local cafe – we took a drive out to Little Desert National Park to have a look. We did some sort of nature walk looking at varieties of eucalypts. There were a lot of trees for a desert, in fact it wasn’t very deserty at all. #rubbishdesert

Now that the cafe was finally open (short week – Friday, Saturday & Sunday) there was a bit of a crowd of extended friends for dinner.

Adele & Claire climbed more things – I think they had a good week! Which was just as well, I was poor climbing company – no surprises there though.

Then Saturday came around, there were too-rushed goodbyes, promises of further bike adventures, the long drive back to Melbourne and arriving back in Wellington in the early hours of Sunday morning. Thankfully, good friends Elizabeth & Nigel had a spare comfy bed for me – I was over sleeping in a cold, and later hot, tent with all the wind. Big cooked breakfast too – thanks guys.

Sunday I took a detour via Martinborough for the Toast festival – a good excuse to spend excellent time with Pheasant family, eat plenty of interesting food, drink some local wine & enjoy the atmosphere.

Eventually, I made it home – rather pleased that all that travel was over. It turned out to be a physically and emotionally draining month. Great to see so much of family and dear friends, but tiring and left feeling that the distance to loved ones is still too great. I’m surprised to still be discovering just how strong my grandfather’s legacy is in my life and how that’s still influencing me now.
I was so over the travel, I’d have been quite happy not to go back to Australia for quite some time. But as it happens, first day back at work rather put the kibosh on that. Now I’m coming around to the idea, I hear one can fly Wellington direct to Canberra now.

Grampians Gravel – a late DirtyRat16

I was excited to have a reason to drag myself out of the tent at dawn. It turned out to be worth getting up just to see the sun rise on the rock – the best light I saw all week.

I drove into Horsham to breakfast and get supplies for the day. I was horrified to discover that the first two bakeries I went to weren’t even open at seven o’clock! What kind of country is this? I had to resort to a chain bakery, as such my subsistence for the day was bread-heavy with little in the way of tasty fillings or toppings.

It took about an hour to get to the parking lot at Reed Lookout in Grampians National Park. On the slow, narrow windy road (by Australian standards, not so much NZ) the bush thickened as I left the plains and climbed. Up a hill! A very large deer leapt from nowhere and thoroughly put the wind up me as I avoided narrowly, through no emergency action on my part, the biggest scare I’ve had on the road in a long time. The day continued to brighten as forecast, but I was beginning to notice a bank of cloud behind the approaching ridge – where I was going.

Megan had provided inspiration for this ride, noticing that some of her friends had been on a gravel ride the weekend before. Before departing NZ I managed to contact the organiser of DirtyRat16 and get the GPS file and useful trail beta. Unfortunately Megan couldn’t source a suitable bike (there was little interest in the hardtail I’d seen seemingly abandoned on the edge of the Arapiles Big Sky Trail), so it was left to me selflessly to go and have a big day in the saddle, exploring solitarily.

I’d chosen a different start point of the DirtyRat16 loop to cut down on the driving. This was Reed Lookout, the parking lot was strangely busy with tourists at eight-ish in the morning. There wasn’t much to see however, as the entire valley was filled with cloud.

Nothing to see hear folks, move along.

But that was where I was going, so I set off climbing a little more on the road before turning off onto a dirt road. It wasn’t long before I came across a road-closure sign, which reminded me that the park had had an awful lot of rain recently and there was much related damage. I figured as the event had run this route ten days previously, I’d be OK. The gravel dumped me down to the valley floor, very quickly losing four hundred metres of elevation. At speed, under the cloud it was very chilly – but I knew the cloud would burn off eventually, so enjoyed the freshness while it lasted.

The road widened for a while before I turned off.

Onto another closed track, which narrowed, I startled many a kangaroo. They, sensibly, all bounded off away from me.

I’d been warned that the roughed-up Henham Trail had nearly finished off a few of the riders on the event – but suspected that was because they did it near the end of a big day. As it was, it was all rideable bar ten or twenty metres. There was signs of storm damage, particularly at the many creek crossing – but they were all negotiable.

The roughest bit of the day & the only bit I ended up walking. There’s a bit of a climb there and the surface deteriorates half way up.

Some of the creek crossing were fun to try and get across without dabbing. I soaked a foot in an earlier, deep, one – but as the cloud burned off this didn’t bother me.

The hills that had been in the distance, steadily got closer.

The nineteen kilometre track took me to the furtherest extremity of my loop, but only just over a third of the distance – the return took me west to the other side of the valley. I turned on to a road and it was much faster. I took to riding on the right side of the road to take advantage of the shade – and sometimes I like to pretend I’m in a country that drives on the right.

Easy gravel road riding. Smooth, wide – & red!

The route turned off the road to another 4WD track, to thread between two hills over a slight saddle. To no one’s surprise it was closed, but easily passable on a bike.

Just another sign to ride around.

I stopped for lunch where there was half a view, and finally decided it was warm enough to remove my gilet; sleeves stayed on as they are good sun protection and it still wasn’t hot. Perfect.

The road north up the western side of the valley was also fast & easy going. I hadn’t seen anyone since that sole car early on. I was having a blast, but thought it might be more fun with some company to remark at various animals, trees and other sights. Maybe they’d have been able to educate me on the types of eucalyptus trees I was seeing – they all look very similar to me and I saw thousands of them. The washboard surface of the road became a little tiresome, but that’s a very minor complaint in the scheme of how good a time I was having.

Even the swamp in the bottom of the valley, was looking good – I’m not sure if it had a castle or two lurking in the bottom.

Suddenly a water-logged airfield. The top of the hill on the left was my start and end point.

After crossing the valley floor, I passed where I’d originally turned off the big dirt road and headed north through a camping area. About this time I started to startle pairs of emus. This was alarming as they are big, fast, have big pointy beaks, fearsome feet – and seem to be rather skittish, preferring to run back in front of an opposing threat rather than away from it. I was hoping I was big enough on my bike that they’d leave me alone.

The only photo I managed to nab of an emu.

Through more closed track, where I actually had to lift my bike over a fallen tree – as opposed to riding around the dozens I’d encountered already – the only climb of the day began in earnest. Considering I had almost five hundred metres to gain, it was mostly gentle as the kilometres-to-go clicked down with moderate ascent.

I took a small side-trip to some falls, reasoning that they might have water over them.

There was only one kicker in the climb, where a track back to the road quickly gained metres and I sweated my way up. Then back to the road for a little seal to Reed Lookout. It was a ninety-five kilometre gravel section – fantastic riding and an excellent route by Will. I was looking forward to seeing where I’d been now that the cloud had burnt off. I was not disappointed.

I’d basically ridden from the bottom of the left of shot, towards the reservoir before continuing beyond it to the left, going between those two small hills and then heading back right on the other side of the reservoir.

Following that, I came back towards the camera in this shot before heading around the spur in the centre and finally back up to the lookout.

And there are even some rocks.

I took some time to cool down, admire the view and load the bike in the car. Getting word the others were down in Halls Gap, I made haste to be slightly social, and refuel on salt & vinegar crisps and gelato. While I’d taken plenty of water, I’d eaten all my food and was peckish.

It was most definitely worth bringing my bike all the way to western Victoria for a well good loop of gravel and exploring unfamiliar lands.

Geyserland Gravel Grind: Day Four

In typical fashion, Steve came up with a way to cram even more into the event. Getting up before five o’clock, he was off to an early start on the final day to meet some friends as they passed through Tokoroa riding the length of the country (tag-teaming it) in a week (!) fundraising. I was having none of that and stayed out of the rain until at least it was not dark. Eventually I decided I couldn’t justify staying warm & dry any longer and got up on a proper bleak morning. Colin pulled the pin, finding it even more difficult than I was to motivate himself to ride 150 km in the rain to end up back in the same place.

With the rain strengthening and a slight wind at my back, at least the bakery was open – best pie of the four days, & “I should know, I’ve followed a few”. This was the day of the route I had been most looking forward to as the Mamaku Ranges were a place I’d driven over many times, without exploring off the highway; also, I knew little of the South Waikato – which was where most of the middle portion of the day took us. The rain was consistently soaking me as I gained about three hundred metres in the morning traffic of school buses and trucks; I was dismayed at how much litter was on the side of this particular road – by far the worst I’d seen in quite some time. Even with the steady rain, I had to stop and remove some layers from under my jacket as it was hot work climbing.

Reaching the village of Mamaku, the route turned south and followed the ridge line as it climbed up to 700 metres altitude. Soon it was a fantastic gravel road with little traffic. There was a variety of farms, native bush and plantation forest. Unfortunately the views weren’t much in the gloom. The gravel surface slowly deteriorated, without getting too bad, and the potholes were now filled with water. Unusually for a gravel road, riding in the worn tracks was noticeably slower – it was the rough bits with jagged exposed rock that were faster, easier riding; these bits were somewhat jarring and uncomfortable though.

The rain eased the further I got from Rotorua, but it was still a rather bleak morning.

Turning off the ridge, it was a fast whizz down to Tokoroa, where Steve was waiting after having ridden an extra thirty kilometres at road bike pace down State Highway with the Pink Stripe (or whatever they were calling themselves). Sometimes I think I’m relatively sane.

Main Street Tokoroa was a, ahem, cultural experience. At least the food was cheap and the portions large – which may have been deduced without walking into the bakery.

Erik’s (that’s him sitting with a milkshake and a coffee above) route now took us on rural backroads north to Putaruru. There was one notable pinch climb, but generally it was rather pleasant going as the rain had long left us (or vice versa). Steve was starting to feel either the effects of four days in a row in a saddle or putting his little extra excursions on top of that; we continued at an agreeable pace (well, it was agreeable to me).

There was a strange prevalence of Series I Land Rovers around Lichfield.

Putaruru also added to our cultural learnings for the day as we stopped for a small lunch.

Leaving town and dropping to our lowest point of the day, we basically only had to cross back over the Mamakus, descend to Lake Rotorua and that would be the hard work over. Off the sealed road, it was a steady climb up a long gravel road. While surrounded by trees it was easy to feel as though we were making our way on to a big plateau – but occasional glimpses showed steep valleys dropping off the side of where the road threaded its way up.

Great gravel grinding.

Steve realised we’d not got a selfie yet. I think you can see a bit of a grimace there. After five hundred kilometres and four days, the place had been found where it hurts to sit on the saddle, yet it hurts just as much to stand up on the pedals. I never doubted he’d make it, but apparently that was a little naive.

Just as we neared the end of Leslie Road, there was a seven hundred metre stretch mired with huge puddles and masses of mud churned up by 4WDs. I negotiated most of it until decided I could ride through the edge of this one:

I couldn’t, much to Steve’s amusement when I ended up with rather wet & muddy feet.

Back surrounded by farmland, we got a good look at scores of these unusual formations. For some reason I thought them volcanic plugs, I’ve no idea if that’s correct.

Reaching the ridge again near Mamaku village, this time we turned north and rode into the wind along the ridge. Finally we had a big downhill back to lake level. We weren’t in too much of a rush to finish a great weekend’s riding, so stopped in at the bakery again for more pies.

And then fought off the local birdlife as pies were devoured.

The last ten kilometres to the finish was flat and appropriately it followed a new cycle path through Kuirau Park, past all the steaming pools. We didn’t crash through any of the barriers, thus avoiding become another newspaper story of being scalded to terminal demise.

The last little bit on this unusual cycle path – a little bit of frivolity snaking along the Green Corridor (although this bit is patently not green).

Just like that, four great days of 550 km riding, exploring, eating & hot pooling was over. Typically there was no fanfare or anyone to mark the occasion. Except, suddenly there was. Coincidentally, Colin strolled by and then Rob (who did the two-day event) rode past on his way home from work. That was a nice little finish. A most excellent long weekend, thank for all the hard work planning & organising it, Erik.