All posts by bpheasant

Geyserland Gravel Grind: Day Three

The previous day must have been somewhat tiring as I slept unusually well in a small tent. Packed-up we cycled off – that was the last we saw of most of group, as they were doing the three-day option and taking an entirely different route to us four-dayers. In a contrast to Day Two, the day started gently with the easiest section of the day. It was reasonably flat along Te Kopia Rd for a while as we watched the geothermal steam languidly rise.

The climbing started in earnest, and so began a day which felt like we were constantly going up or down. It probably wasn’t quite like that, but that is how I remember it. As we neared the Waikato River (the longest in the country) the land use turned to forestry again, the road became shingle and turned sharply south-east. With a few more rises and falls, going past some beautifully remote-feeling spots we reached an intersection and were shortly stopping to snack and look as we crossed the river. I thought it remarkably still.

Turning onto State Highway One I was surprised to see we were only twenty-two kilometres from Taupo! And we were about to get closer as we were dumped beside a passing lane with little shoulder and holiday weekend traffic. Thankfully that was over soon enough as we passed our highest point of the day. On the back road to Kinloch we passed plenty of lifestyle blocks before heading through more forestry and dairy farms; of note was a sprawling complex of tomato glasshouses heated geothermally, a new diary factory and geothermal power generation.

There was some respite from the climbing before a prolonged descent towards the river again and catching up to Colin as he was standing perplexed by an irregularity in the GPS route, much as I had been. We didn’t quite get to the river, but did pass this conspicuous formation that one usually sees from the other side driving past on the highway.

Once again we rode beside a horrid passing lane on the highway – thankfully only three kilometres of rushing traffic before turning off, climbing once more before stopping on the grass of Ohakuri Dam for a very long lunch watching the activity on the lake.

Admittedly, there is not much activity to be seen in this picture.

Maleme Road provided the only other stretch of gravel for the day, unfortunately. Or perhaps fortunately, as although it was a beauty it climbed a couple of hundred metres. Coming off the hill, we ended back down at the level of Lake Ohakuri, and about six kilometres from where we had been at the start of the day. Psychologically this was difficult – to have ridden 110 km just to end up basically where we’d started, with an awful lot of climbing in between time and not really any particularly unique scenery. I tried to keep this frustration quiet as I think Steve was struggling with so many hours in the saddle over consecutive days – at least he couldn’t see the GPS track and its seeming futility.

Things flattened out, relatively speaking, as we headed back to Rotorua to skirt its edges. We reached the first shop of the day in Springfield, resupplied and chatted to Colin again. With a decent cup of tea downed, we set off to finish the last twenty kilometres of the day around the back of Mt Ngongataha. The climb up to the saddle wasn’t as long or high as it looked and the change in scenery, from the farms and forests, around the back of the mountain made everything wonderful again and I was happy to be out riding bikes in the gathering gloom.

We found the campground easily enough, got a different view of Lake Rotorua and made camp. With recommendations for the best takeaway shop on the main street, we set off to collect rather large bowls of Chinese food. Eventually Erik rolled into camp having taken a twenty-four kilometre detour in the middle of the day for a cafe. I was a bit tired, so settled into my sleeping bag for what was to be a rather rainy night.

Lake Rotorua looking a little gloomy as a strong wind whips off the lake towards our tents.

Geyserland Gravel Grind: Day Two

Some people seemed eager to get on the trail, so campsite noise began early. Apparently the wind had really got up in the night, but I’d missed that – so my night maybe wasn’t as sleepless as I’d thought. Breaking camp it was down to the store to find breakfast – hot meat pies are fine for breakfast, right? Retracing our path a little along the highway we were soon climbing up in front of the cliff faces to the valley that Herepuru Road lies in.

Gaining that little bit of elevation quickly confirmed that it was another glorious day in the Bay. That’s White Island puffing away on the horizon – I really should visit one day.

While the more magnificient Tarawera Falls were near to our route, this would be the largest waterfall we saw on our trip.

Gaining four hundred metres in altitude was a little bit of a shock first thing in the morning, but it was a lovely climb up through quiet farmland and then onto another stretch of the gravel Manawahe Rd. A fast, loose and thrilling ride ensued on the gravel as we quickly returned to the plains, which were basically at sea level.

Looking toward Kawerau and Mt Edgecumbe partway down the descent back to the plains.

We made good time against a slight wind on the highway before turning south at Te Teko – our last place for getting water and buying supplies for sixty kilometres. Buying more pies, we rolled out under the watchful eye of a local Mob emissary – much speculation was had as to whether he was checking out the patch of the Coastal Crew (a group from Kapiti with their own printed riding gear) or just generally impressed by the large twenty-nine inch wheels.

For the next seventy kilometres we followed quiet backroads through an awful lot of forest, much of it unsealed. I was surprised to see a rail line through here – I’d no idea, apparently it brings logs from Murupara to the mills at Kawerau. It was not unpleasant climbing up to five hundred metres, even if all the pine trees were somewhat similar. We found a trail angel just past the halfway point of the day and gladly accepted oat cookies and were happy to stop and chat for a while. Eventually things flattened out and the hills became undulating; it was time for lunch in the sun on a big grassy patch, and another pie. Stopping briefly in the shade at Rerewhakaaitu School to refill bottles, I looked across the road and saw the hall that we stayed in twenty years ago on aforementioned cycle tours. Those were the days where you could walk or ride up & down Tarawera for the princely sum of two dollars. Always so much fun running down into the crater and then blasting down the 4WD road off the mountain.

Here’s a view of what I consider the back of Mt Tarawera, and what is definitely Steve’s back.

Having skirted around Lake Rerewhakaaitu and passing the roads used to access the northern part of the lake, I recalled numerous days and nights camping beside the lake and finally learning to deep-water start on a single waterski. Gosh, it’s been years since I’ve been waterskiing. There’s a nice bit of new singletrack around the edge of Rainbow Mountain that gets bikes & riders off the highway for a bit. We took that before stocking up for the next day’s breakfast & lunch at Benny Bee cafe – and feeding ourselves for the present as well, naturally.

From there all that was left of the day’s riding was to ride the notorious Waikite Hill – albeit in reverse, we went down the near-twenty percent gradient hill before arriving at the campground. Well, Steve had somehow managed to lose his debit card on the way down – so he got to climb the hill properly; pleasingly, he did manage to find the lost card. The best thing about the campground was that admission to the site also included the adjacent hot pools. Pre- and post-dinner soaks in the pools? Don’t mind if I do. A close second to the pools was the huge plate of beef nachos I devoured. I could get used to bikepacking for the day and finishing at four-thirty – most excellent, especially with hot pools, large dinners & beer.

Geyserland Gravel Grind: Day One

Some months ago, I noticed talk online of a bikepacking event around Rotorua. As the plans developed and a date was set, I was excited for this – and not only because it would be my first bikepacking for the 16/17 summer. Having grown up and spent much time around the area, I was keen to get back and explore it a bit more from the different vantage point of a bike. Also, many of the place names were familiar to me only because Dad used to mention them in passing as places he would visit farms in the course of his work. It was only some time later that I realised the similarities between the route and that taken on my first cycle-touring experiences (two week-long school holiday camps named “Rotorua Lakes Cycle Tour” that I did aged fourteen and fifteen).

Erik had worked diligently to compile what looked a very interesting route, starting in the centre of Rotorua before heading to the coast past many lakes, then returning to the many hills south of Rotorua. A key difference for this event was that the daily distances were set – this meant that we all camped in the same campgrounds. This sounded a good idea in two ways: it would be much more social in the evening compared with wildcamping alone and with the distance set, there was no obligation to try and ride as much as possible. Interest was stronger Erik expected; twenty-six of us assembled Saturday morning, keen to see what the long-weekend would bring. Erik had even gone to the trouble of organising three courses: two, three and four days. Somehow I’d persuaded Steve that stepping up from the brace of two-day trips I’d dragged him on previously (Waikaremoana and a local one) to the full four days was a good idea.

Waiting for the off; once again Steve, as the accomplished & strong triathlete, had the pleasure of carrying our tent. I travelled lighter than in Tour Aotearoa.

With a group photo taken and last minute details explained, we were off into the sun with a brisk southerly chasing us to the shores of Lake Rotorua.

For an event called the Geyserland Gravel Grind, appropriately our first bit of off-road trail was through thermal flats beside the lake. One of my favourite smells, the rotten-eggs of hydrogen sulphide, hung heavy in the air – we must be in Rotovegas!

With over forty kilometres of fun mountain-biking the previous day making their presence known in my legs, I was happy to dawdle at the back as we made our way south through the forest where I’d been riding but twenty hours before. This time the gravel roads and singletrack were there to be enjoyed by taking in the atmosphere, rather than by attacking them. I was surprised to catch up to Steve. It turned out he’d had quite a luggage malfunction resulting in some apparently superficial to the rack he was using. As we attempted to satisfactorily rearrange the constituent parts the situation became all rather hilarious; eventually I managed to stop laughing and a solution was found (those were independent events).

Past Green Lake we were next on the new-to-me highline trail around Blue Lake – that was cool & much better than the road option. Out of the forest and a bit of seal had us whizzing down to and around Lake Okareka.

I stopped to snap a different perspective of Mt Tarawera.

Said perspective, looking across Okareka.

Back onto gravel we soon found the start of the Western Okataina Walkway – which has been opened to bikes since I used to ride regularly around the area. Skirting the western edge of the lake, the seventeen kilometre trail through native bush fair owned us. It was fantastic, even if it took almost two and a half hours. Heavily rutted out in places, there was a fair bit of hike-a-bike and with the rough surface, a few stops were made to readjust Steve’s sleeping bag on the rack. Mercifully it was reasonably dry; the forest was lush and we stopped in a small clearing for a relaxed lunch and doze in the sun. Yet another trail discovered bikepacking that I’ve earmarked for returning to with an unladen (swallow) bike – such fun.

A nice smooth section of trail.

That done, we were on the shore of yet another lake – Rotoiti.

Passing many maraes, we joined a large contingent of GGG riders at the first store in ages – time to stock up on snacks and reapply sunscreen.  Refueled we followed the highway around the shore for a while, before turning off down Manawahe Rd – this road starts off between two more lakes, Rotoehu & Rotoma.  As we passed the top of Pongakawa Valley Rd I was really feeling close to growing up in Te Puke – I used to have classmates that lived up this way.  After having gravel crunching under the wheels for a while longer we were looking for unmarked track off the side of the road.  We managed to take a track fifty metres too early, quickly realising my mistake after a large puddle and a fun, but rough, descent.  Here we were joined by Colin, who I recognised from the Kiwi Brevet last year – I sure hope I’m still bikepacking while drawing a pension, what a guy.

It turns out that the turn was marked, somewhat; although the trail is not immediately apparent.

The two kilometres of overgrown and unmaintained paper road was much more rideable than expected. Soon we were at the top of Pikowai Rd, with three-hundred metres of elevation to lose to get to sea-level and twenty-five kilometres to get to the campsite at Matata. Needless to say, that quick blast downhill was most fun – even spooking a large deer along the way.

The buildings were about the only things watching us up here.

Looking west towards childhood homes – if you squint I’m sure you can see Te Puke there somewhere.

Snaking down to the coast between the cliffs that I was rather familiar with having driven past here many times when younger, we joined State Highway Two for the last ten kilometres of the day. As I had spent so much time on and around this highway growing up, it was weird to be riding along it – especially so as now I regularly ride to and from work on a completely different stretch of the same highway hundreds of kilometres away.

Naturally there was a fair crowd of us stopped outside a store scoffing food and ice creams, so we stopped in before making camp just behind the dunes.

We fair took over three or so sites (this being about half of our tents) – the campsite was busy with the long-weekend and the popularity of the spot.

Back on a Bay of Plenty beach with proper sand & all! There’s even Whale Island over there too.

Plenty of people out enjoying the late-afternoon sun and fishing.

While only a shade over a hundred kilometres, there was a fair bit of riding involved in a fantastic day. It was excellent that all the riders were in the same place at the end of the day sharing stories of the day, beers and copious amounts of fish and chips. But we’re hardly a rowdy bunch – I think most were tucked up in tents by half-eight.

Footnote: It is with some sadness that I know definitely that my uncle will not take this post with him on one of his regular visits to share with Granddad the cycling stories and pictures of his only grandson. Rather than writing stories of my own little rides, I should be preparing what I’m going to say at the funeral of the man whose cycling feats continually inspire and surpass my own. Cycling to Wales of a Friday night to escape the bleakness of London during WWII and then big tours of post-war Europe are some stories I’ll not hear firsthand again. Perhaps I got into this bikepacking/(off-road) cycle touring thing a little late – but hopefully he was able to appreciate and take a bit of pleasure in the fact that I was off seeing many places from the saddle of a bike.

Dobies Ode-ies

For the first time in over ten years, I phoned in sick to work at the start of the week – so this week has been even quieter than the last few months generally have. But with enforced rest (no riding a bike for a week, absurd), I’ve got time for a rather nostalgic post on this neglected platform.

I was mortified after a not-so-recent bike-commute that I’d worn a hole in my bike shorts. Usually, that wouldn’t be a big deal – but I just didn’t think it was possible with NZO Dobies. Roomy, comfortable and (almost, it turns out) indestructible, Dobies have been my go-to MTBing shorts for over ten years – my first pair was handed down to Adele and still have plenty of life left in them after a decade (maybe I should steal them back). I ordered two new pairs eight years ago before embarking on quite a few years of travel and much mountain-biking.

It is one of those pairs, the (once) black ones, that have finally worn through. I think that’s a pretty fantastic show of longevity as I’ve clocked up well over twenty-five thousand kilometres of mountain-biking in that time in all sorts of conditions. As I was thinking that over, I realised these shorts have been part of an awful lot of my bike adventures and it would be worth doing a quick search through my photos of me on bikes. So now I’ll reminisce for the joy of it; at least, I don’t think I’m mourning a pair of shorts.

Earliest picture of said Dobies, late 2008; fitting as on a trip with Roger & Mark to Whangamata – I really started to get into riding more once I met those two.  Notable also for the NZO socks, gloves, shirt & buff.

Queen Charlotte Walkway trip early 2009 – that three-day ride remains as a highlight of all riding trips. 

Living the dream – riding in western USA mid-2009; the start of my time away from NZ, the riding was fantastic. This must have been the ride I met Chip, a recurring riding buddy whose bike-over-the-head pose I’m trying for the first time here.

Black shorts may not have been the best idea on a day that reached 40ºC by nine in the morning – riding the Bootleg Canyon trails, near Boulder City, Nevada. The brewpub was welcome relief at eleven o’clock.

Having a blast on Just Outstanding somewhere in the Sierra Nevadas. A weekend spent camping with MTB randoms I met on mtbr.com – what could go wrong? Cannell Plunge is one of my all-time favourites – on which I completely cooked my brakes, they were never the same.

Black Dobies turn up in the teafields of Kenya – some excellent biking & exploring to be done, I was to return despite the dislocated shoulder incident.

Then a whole summer and fall of biking in the Canadian Rockies. Here Black Dobies are a late ring-in for a Calgarian team competing in the 24 Hours of Adrenaline. Suitable photos worthy of portraying what a fantabulous summer of biking it was are, sadly, lacking.

Black Dobies were on the excellent three-month west-USA road trip with Valerie; here just out of Grand Junction, Colorado.

Riding around the north rim of the Grand Canyon.

Wonderful riding just out of Sedona.

Tahoe Rim Trail!

The McKenzie River Trail, Oregon – a ride memorable for cool new friends.

Following all that there was a return to the UK and plenty of riding with great buddies in the south and south-west of England – alas, I seem to have few photos of myself on those pretty countryside rides.

But the shorts couldn’t be kept away from North America – here, arguably the best MTB holiday I’ve been on, in Moab, Utah. Excellent friends, sublime riding, good food and conditions combined for a memorable & often-remembered week.

Following that trip, it was a cracking summer in the UK during which it didn’t rain for months – I rode plenty in preparation for:

My first multi-day MTB event – the three-day Rift Valley Odyssey, I didn’t need much persuasion to visit East Africa again.

Then I was made redundant, so the Black Dobies & I set off biking across Western Europe. A couple of thousand kilometres took me from London to Italy, I was traveling light so the shorts were in constant use.

On a bridge between Germany & Belgium, it seemed I was constantly crossing borders – the shorts were often confused as to which country they were in.

Crossing the Alps into Italy.

Another month of constant Dobies wearing – working on a vineyard in Aosta Valley & hiking in the Alps. The pockets were never the same after I stuffed eighty walnuts in them while out for a siesta-replacing walk.

Just a little ride around Mt Kilimanjaro; another trip to Tanzania, perche no?

Then I was back in NZ, for good!  Dragging best-sister up steep hills on bikes happened a fair bit that summer.

My first bikepacking event seemed like a good idea. The Kiwi Brevet was a sublime 1150 km loop around the top half of the South Island – Black Dobies got punished again. 

From the same trip, this seems to be the last momentous photo I have of Black Dobies.

There was another year of riding – some bikepacking, much commuting, a little mountain-biking – before the horrid revelation that I’d actually worn them out, I still can’t quite believe it. Eight years – how is it possible to withstand all that biking and traveling? Never mind, I received a new pair as a Christmas gift. Probably I don’t to need steal my original pair back, that may have been why Adele got me the new pair.

You’ll be pleased to know the days are getting longer & warmer – soon I’ll have more tales of biking, exploring & bikepacking to tell and I’ll not need to resort to writing about shorts.