Category Archives: around home

around home, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Five Beaches

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With vague notions of meeting others for some long-weekend bikepacking not eventuating, when Gill posted about riding Five Beaches I was keen – it promised to be a leisurely ride and I didn’t have to drive far. Based on the first hundred kilometres of the inaugural Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour, it had somehow made it into last year’s Bikepacking Aotearoa – to my delight. Having not ridden the whole loop in one trip, it seemed a good use of a couple of days.

Mild autumn weather greeted us as I met Gill and Bernard in Waipukurau. Bikes assembled and cars stashed, we were off along very familiar roads. The backroads were typically quiet and I very much enjoyed seeing the area in a different season – still looking generally very dry, there was at least some colour remaining in the trees. With only sixty kilometres on the plan for the day, it was nice to take our time – plenty of food stops and general rests. Riding with Bernard a bit it was most gratifying to see his face light up with the delight of ever changing rural views – much how I felt the first time riding through here.

Old Hill Road ridge riding always a favourite.

In Porangahau before half-two, the day’s riding was pretty much done! Plenty of time for an ice cream and chat with Orlando at Flotsam and Jetsam – slowly possibilities for this year’s HBAT are interesting me. Bernard was keen to see the world’s longest place name, so we duly obliged with a short detour before heading for the campground at the beach.

Camp made, there was so much time to spare. Into the westerly, we returned to town for dinner at the pub. Outside the diary we found two more bikepackers (also from Wellington) with fish and chips. Turned out we’d spied them removing bikes from their van as we started off; more delight to learn that they were also following the Five Beaches route and thoroughly enjoying it. We ditched the pub idea and went for burgers and chips – tasty.

Barely dark returning to camp, after showering and a cup of tea I was unsure what to do with all the extra time. Nine o’clock wasn’t too early to snuggle into my tent for a good night’s sleep? I hope not, as that’s what I did – on a very mild night, despite the clear skies. With good company it had been a fantastic relaxing day, after finally breaking nineteen minutes at Park Run with some effort.

An even more glorious day dawned for us Sunday, a bit of breeze overnight keeping our little tent collection pretty dry. Not having two days to spare to ride the remaining hundred-plus kilometres, I bid farewell to the Wellington crew and set off for the rest of the beaches and Waipukurau – a gentle breeze behind me.

The hills seemed smaller than previously, the wind must have been stronger than I thought. A strange amount of traffic passed me on Blackhead Rd, but that hardly slowed me in reaching the Blackhead to Pourerere beach section just before low tide. With few people around and that wind, it was far easier on the hard packed sand than my previous visit. A beautiful morning to soak in the sun and scenery.

With so much space, I got to practice snapping photos while riding in the opposite direction.

First of the two hills of note dealt with, Clareinch Rd is always a delight. Finally I made the short detour to see a sixth beach – Mangakura. With far fewer houses, it was for many years a private beach on a farm – but over time a small number of sections were divided amongst the family and some then sold on. I learnt all this from a friendly family that farm back on Ugly Hill Rd (which forms part of the start of the route) and they were happy to share some history, and top up my water bottle.

Just up the road was the fifth of the five beaches, Kairakau; it was easy to pop down there and see it again. Not so easy turning back into the wind. Up the other hill of note for the day, the wind didn’t make the drop down to the Tukituki that fast – but the Patangata Tavern appeared for lunch sooner than I was expecting.

With the last of the rural scenes still showing autumn colours, I was back in Waipawa and soon Waipukurau having had a thoroughly enjoyable day and a bit on the wee Five Beaches route. It’s like someone knew the type of riding I like.


around home, bikepacking, bikes, family, friends, NZ, shoulder

Christmas Letter 2020

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2020 certainly was a year to remember, or perhaps forget on the other side of the coin. I can’t add much more to what has already been covered, except the personal note. Now home in NZ for longer than I was overseas, I’m well pleased to have chosen to return to a wee country isolated at the bottom of the world that is just that little bit behind the times – a positive boon when a pandemic rears its head. Seven weeks of isolation, working from home, was plenty – I managed just enough riding and running locally to stay relatively sane, but working was not the most productive as I found that difficult to adjust to. Still, we’ve had it far better here than many places and that’s fairly easy to remember as I think of friends and family on distant shores.

Despite the interruption, it was another cracking year of riding bikes. An optimistic weekend loop around Waikaremoana and Whirinaki Forest Park with Pete got things off to a suitable start, the Moerangi Track always a highlight.

Whirinaki Forest Park

February kicked off with joining Pete for his North Island Traverse; I figured riding for three hilly days was the best way to get to the west of the North Island, and riding home from East Cape similarly the obvious solution. So a big triangular, double traverse of the island ensued in which I proved to myself that I could consistently ride two hundred kilometres a day for over a week and still thoroughly enjoy myself seeing new places; kind weather certainly helped.

First day heading west, a detour off the much less interesting Napier-Taihape Gentle Annie Road.

Cape Egmont, western most point.

Pete heading through the rural hills of Taranaki.

Approaching East Cape and a heinous headwind.

Looking towards Waikaremoana on the last night while heading for home.

That experience convinced me to finally bite the bullet and book tickets for a more ambitious bikepacking proposition abroad. Alas, that couldn’t have happened this year – but I found myself not at all disappointed. Instead, with five weeks of annual leave suddenly spare and much flight credit it’s been a perfect opportunity to make the most of being in NZ and being able to see family and friends that would have been neglected if Plan A had been possible.

Local exploration continued when allowed, this little province continuing to fascinate me – mostly with its hills and rivers.

Bike exploration out of the equation during lockdown, I finally took to running around the hill I live on. I gradually strung an optimised route together to link all of the thirty staircases and ramps – after a few weeks of working up to it, I was pleased to run between, and mostly walk up/down, them all on a fifteen kilometre course.

Nope, not a bad spot to be stuck for seven weeks; the weather was brill too.

Once allowed out again, I was itching to explore some of the local trails that I’d never got around to seeing as biking is not permitted there. There followed a series of small trail runs in quiet and isolated native forest. I was fascinated by getting yet another different perspective of areas I’ve biked through many times.

Bell Rock, only very windy and with enough snow around to make things interesting.

Park Run took a bit of a backseat for most of the year, but with much time away getting tiring I’m back into a bit more of a routine but struggling to find my former speed with only one sub-twenty minute five kilometre run for the year. I thought I’d reach my half-century mid-year, alas … I may just sneak in by year-end.

August had a hastily organised week down south visiting family – mostly so I didn’t completely miss all of the first year of my nephew’s life. I didn’t even take a bike (!), but with little snow around I managed daily mountain-biking rides with James and ran a prickly rogaine with Adele. Mum also visited for our birthdays late-August, we enjoyed a long weekend on Mahia Peninsula – a favourite place of mine in Hawke’s Bay that it took me too long to discover. Highlights were bush walks in unrideable places, the extensive nikau grove at Maruia and a week spot of caving. Planning for this year’s Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour late October was not nearly as involved as for the inaugural one last year, but still required some delightful rides in different parts of Hawke’s Bay.

Mahia Peninsula, mid-winter.

I was excited to share Whirinaki (the forest park, not the one where I work) with some workmates for a late-winter weekend of bushwalking and a little mountain-biking. I must get back there for longer – but where is the time?!

A small bikepacking event at the end of September finally got me to Golden Bay. The weather completely packed up after the first day of two, and I ended up sheltering from the storm for the second day – and the next two. As I had two weeks off work, it worked well sitting out the foul weather and making the most of the good weather as I toured around the West Coast – spending time with new friends, riding three world class trails and soaking in the stunning scenery.

The calm before the storm on Six Corners event, around Golden Bay.

Just an hour or so of pushing through the snow on the Heaphy.

Back to Waiuta – a favourite from Kiwi Brevet and Tour Aotearoa.

The second time on the Old Ghost Road in five days, this time an out and back to the high point, the first a big through ride starting and ending in Westport on the Monday. Great weather, big views and fabulous riding both times.

As relaxing as that tour was, in hindsight leaving two weeks between that and putting the finishing touches on HBAT was not enough. My HBAT ride didn’t go well, and it took me some weeks before I wanted to go bikepacking again – which was concerning as the summer approached, along with it two big rides early next year. However, the desire to ride all sorts of places and see new things did return after a few weeks of taking it easy and looking after myself a bit more.

An unexpected element of the year was being asked to contribute some of my Hawke’s Bay bikepacking knowledge to a guidebook of shorter (<500 km) routes all around the country. Long video calls with Jonathan ensued discussing route possibilities and bikepacking in general. Somehow two routes I described ended up with full write-ups and another gets in with a brief description. I'm quite honoured and pleased by that - some actual use to all my exploring around here.

I also managed to hurriedly proofread the whole thing just before it went to press – excited by all the places I haven’t yet ridden yet doesn’t begin to describe the feeling from reading a softcopy. Now that some actual copies have arrived wrapped and are under my little Christmas tree (got to put something under there!), I’m itching to get out and ride more new places. A little final scouting ride with a small group from Wellington just as the book was going to press was another highlight of the year. If you’ve any interest in Bikepacking Aotearoa, I suggest you get a copy quickly.

The desire to try and make the most of the freedoms we are currently privileged to have lives on, spurred on not just by the global situation but also the sudden passing of two people only a matter of years younger than me in separate motorbike accidents a few days apart. In doing so, I realise I’ve had overnight trips away the last five weekends, and really am just scratching the surface of places I want to explore nearby. It’s just as well that painting and general house maintenance is now at the stage, after five years, where nothing is pressing enough to curtail weekend adventures.

At long last spending time in the Kawekas, instead of the the edge.

Airbnb for me went the way of much this year, stopping with lockdown and, with no large travel or house expenses looming, not returning yet; I’ve enjoyed the break from the work involved in having guests continually through – it served a purpose for a time, but a year off from it is grand. I still happily welcome fascinating and lovely cycle tourists, but they are few and far between now. Work continues to go well and having a good, stable employer through such a year is another reason to be thankful. I inadvertently had my role expanded and got, what I’m told was, a promotion as my manager moved up the ladder and, as the only one who has any idea what I’m supposed to be doing, dragged me up a bit too.

To my surprise (I’ll believe it when the house is full), my immediate family has decided Christmas is at my house this year – so that’ll be different and I’m looking forward to that, once I’ve caught up on the many neglected little jobs. It’ll be strange having so much time off work and staying at home, but good not to have to travel south as I’ll be doing that late January and late February for two bikepacking events. The first is the next iteration of the toughest one I’ve ever done (different route), but I’ll have to take it easy as only two weeks later is the inaugural Tour Te Waipounamu – which I’m sure will quickly take the mantle of hardest event I’ve attempted. With so much new country to see, it’s proper exciting.

Proofreading all that, it really hasn’t been that bad a year here – just a bit mad in parts. Even so, I’m looking forward to a better and more settled 2021 – I hope yours is too. Merry Christmas all, and thanks for reading this far.

Postscript: Fortunately, I found the time to write that above last week (typing is now difficult) – as life can change so quickly, which is all the more reason to make the most of whatever opportunities are available. Just about to start applying the second coat of deck stain yesterday morning, I too-enthusiastically reached for something, heard my poor shoulder tear apart and dislocate again. Thus started six hours of cycling through discomfort, pain, and agony – increasingly drug-addled for the time it took four doctors to attempt to get it back in. With a very busy Emergency Department, eventually they knocked me out completely and relocated it.

So now I’ve finished work a bit earlier for the year and, wonderfully, my parents arrived yesterday afternoon and I’m being well looked after. Hard to say where to from here, that’s six dislocations now – two in the last two years since surgery over eight years ago; I guess another round of MRIs and I might be more receptive to further surgery – because it really was a quite innocuous movement yesterday. So a more subdued Christmas is to be had, but that’s ok as the shoulder situation is only a little dip down (been here before) in my wee life c.f. this rather crazy and ever-changing world, plus I’ll get to spend a lot of time with my family over the next fortnight – although hugs and picking up my young nephew are and will be difficult.

around home, hiking, NZ

Te Puia and Makino

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Five years of hot springs bikepacking trips, and the one a fortnight ago was finally enough to motivate me to get into the Kaweka Forest Park properly – rather than just biking to the edge and sitting in a hot pool.

Instead I’d drive after lunch Saturday to the road end and make the short walk into Te Puia Lodge – the only serviced hut in the park and a good option for a quick, lightweight overnighter. Despite almost being hit by them, I was pleased to see the three full vans of a local high school were driving out; the hut may have been rather loud that night had they been going in.

Warmer than the forecast suggested, it was a lovely walk in. Having only really crossed it, by bike on each of the six bridges I know of, I was well pleased to spend much time walking beside the Mohaka River. Mostly dry, the track was easily walkable in the running shoes I’d opted for; often it climbed away from the river over or around a bluff – which helped with varying the walking and giving some views. I enjoyed each aspect of the scene unfolding, all new to me.

Fair flow after recent rain.

A hundred minutes in, the first signs of Te Puia appeared and then there on a clearing beside the river and opposite a waterfall, there it was. Chatting to three recent forestry grads (only slightly relevant as one had just started at my work – predictably in Forests), I claimed a bunk and ditched most of the little gear I’d carried in.

I thought there was enough daylight left to run/walk/scramble up and back down what looked a steep hill to another hut for a look-see. Surely it wasn’t two hours of walking to go two-ish kilometres and climb five hundred metres… Soon reaching at a jog, but not crossing, the bridge over the Makino the trail to Makino Hut suddenly got steep. Any semblance of running ceased and I was picking a path up, up and up trying to keep my footing. After the first hundred metres of gain, the trail got steeper again for the next two hundred.

The steepest part, thankfully not too wet, or dry, to reduce traction.

Strangely, the canopy got taller the higher I got. Topping out at around a thousand metres, the forest was most impressive for the last little undulating bit to the hut – unloaded it only took an hour to reach. Cripes, one could hardly miss it – an old NZ Forest Service hut from the sixties, its bright orange paint was still resplendent in the late afternoon sun. I soon found out why as three guys appeared and explained that they’d been there for three days waterblasting, prepping and painting the hut and outbuildings. I wasn’t expecting to find some many people up here, so it was nice to chat and hear about their voluntary work. They also pointed me down a small track to a viewpoint.

The Mohaka (Te Puia is just to the right of that little bit of whitewater) and the ranges north beyond.

Losing the sun, it was time to set off down to dinner. It certainly was cooler descending, and my poor quads got a hammering – which, as usual, they’ve taken two days to forcefully remind me of. Self-preservation slowed me some, but I was still down within two hours of leaving not having slipped or tripped – skin intact.

Back at the hut, there was time to prepare and enjoy dinner before heading upriver for the Mangatainoka hot springs with the large family group also staying. Yes, more hot springs. Somehow the chat turned from hiking to bikepacking on the forty minute walk – I may have had something to do with that.

Crossing the bridge over the Makino this time; the hut is up on that ridge somewhere clad in trees.

There’s a sweet campsite too at the track end, with a nice little sandy beach on the river edge. Might be a good option for next time… With a few buckets of cold water from the river, the tub was good for a long soak as dark gathered and we watched the river disappear.

Surprise, the hot springs have been flashed up.

Back by torchlight for tea, cards, wine and chocolate. Tough evening. With a dozen staying and the fire dying out during the night (unsure why it was lit, was almost unbearably warm through the evening), my lightest sleeping bag was enough for a good night’s sleep without. Breakfast down the hatch, it didn’t take long to pack my minimal gear up and bid goodbye to my hut buddies. It tried to rain on the way back, but never really got going enough to drag a jacket out.

Pleased to see the bush start to turn white as the manuka blossoms, reminding me of the bright hillsides of my first visit to the end of Makahu Road.

Soon back at the car and in the same time again I was back in town, a very successful twenty-four hours away complete. The guys at Makino Hut told me there are twenty-six huts and bivies in the park, that sounds an interesting little project over the coming seasons.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, event, GPS, NZ

HBAT20 shortened

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Ten days between returning from the excellent West Coast bikepacking tour and setting off for the 2020 edition of the Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour was always going to be a bit rushed for sorting out the last minute details. Still all the things were done: farm inductions, finalising the tracking, answering the emails and questions, assembling my bike, getting overly excited and following up a last minute section through stunning private land, adding said section to the route and so on. From a few days out I noticed my hours of sleep gradually decrease to about three hours per night and the telltale tic of tiredness return for the first time in some years.

Twas all worth it though to have fourteen riders assemble at Ranui Farm Park the Thursday night before the four day long weekend. That worked really well (save an annoying miscommunication with room bookings), getting to see everyone for some hours before the ride started at dawn the following morning. So good to have half the field returning riders and get to meet for the first time other people I’d only exchanged emails with.

Friday morning and ready to go before sunrise.

Finally, I could challenge myself on the course I’d designed to be as such, and interesting to me. Turns out more time should have been paid to my pedals, as one promptly fell to pieces and slid off the spindle still attached to my foot. Bit of a showstopper, but as far as a place to have such things happen – one kilometre from the start is about as good as any on a remote course. Sad to see everyone else go, I turned and hoped Greg hadn’t left for Napier already. Phew, he was still there and we were soon heading home – where I swapped in pedals from another bike and made the drive back. The crazy amount of fog from just north of the start all the way to Napier persisted for the drive’s entirety, but strangely was not on the course at all.

Three hours later I was back on the route and wondering if I’d still make my goal of being back in Napier that night. A nice gentle start, in this crazy year it was a privilege to be out riding such a ride with or without the group ahead. Seeing many tyre tracks in the gravel reminded me of this and brought a smile to my face – some of it may have been a touch of pride that I’d somehow convinced people to get out and spend their long weekend on a course I’d designed. They may or may not trust me in such a way again.

Still flat, not for long.

A three hour delay wasn’t really that frustrating, after all I was soon out riding in the sun drenched countryside.

Diverting from last year’s course, the hills quickly began on a section I love. But first, a long moment to pause on the the very spot where a couple of months before I’d met a fantastic farmer who generously allowed us to ride through his farm. Tragically he’s gone far too young after a freak accident on the farm; I only chatted to Harry for quarter of an hour, yet it’s had quite an impact – part of it, another reason to savour being able to get out and make the most of opportunities presented. Eventually back riding – a dead-end road, a hilly farm crossing and then a blissful section with twenty kilometres of gravel, views of the ocean and surrounding farmland, grass up the middle of the little used road and then the long descent to sea level…

After noon by now, the store and excellent coffee cart at Porangahau was most welcome for chatting and refuelling before the steep climb up Old Hill Rd. Was a little mean putting that on the course, but the gradual downhill from the top is, I think, worth it. With over twenty kilometres to go to the beach, the tide would be mostly out by the time I arrived. Along the coastal section of Blackhead Rd, I was entertained by a stunt plane practising – a spectacular show which seemed just for me. The climb at the end of the road was not far from my mind, but conquered as I began to slow a hundred kilometres in.

The tide was still heading out, the sand not yet firm and for the first time that day a headwind – toughest trip on this beach yet.

It was encouraging to see so many people out on the beaches – camping, fishing, diving, walking, on motorbikes. Far more than we saw last year, mostly I expect because the weather was far better. Finding a hose to rinse my bike was a chance to chat to a local and top up water bottles before the big climb out of Pourerere. It’s a good one and I found my first other HBATer of the day at the top – another good opportunity for a chat. I thought I was just going to be on time to cross the second farm before night fell – when riding through was not allowed.

More wonderful, deserted gravel back down to sea level and Kairakau. A lovely evening it was shaping up to be. Stopping at the shearers quarters I found four other riders preparing to make use of the generous offer of accommodation from the farmer – alas the water supply was down. Time was tight for me to get up the big hill, but I, and the others, thought I could do it. Thankfully I know the route well enough, so I was not slowed by route finding difficulties; but I was starting to fade and on the steep, rugged grass farm track pushing my bike became more efficient than trying to ride.

South to all the places I’d just been.

There were far more gates to open and close this year, and plenty of stock around (those two not unrelated). Light fading for the big downhill, I certainly was cutting it fine. Quite the trade-off to make the most of the available light, but not reckless on rough farm tracks in the gathering gloom. Just out before dark, phew, and towards Waimarama. Half-eight by now and completely dark, my plan for making it home hadn’t really changed. It probably should have as I walked anything remotely steep up the last big climb; very odd – I have never come close to walking up Maraetotara Rd, steep as it is, before. Strange thing, I was never in any doubt that I’d make it home – one just had to keep on going.

Suddenly rain on the downhill, it didn’t last long and there was but forty kilometres home. That was just over two hours, and I was pleased to see I’d missed much more rain. Bike in the garage and into my house to sneak around trying not to wake a houseful of fellow bikepackers. I think I managed it, but couldn’t bring myself to find too much food lest I disturb people that had had just as big a day of riding as me. My poor body probably needed the fuel to mend a bit.

Head racing, I hardly slept again and woke early when the house rose to head north for a much tougher day of riding. Completely shattered, I dragged myself up and deliberated whether I should continue the course. I’d at least not fallen into the trap of scratching at the end of the day, instead waiting to see what morning would bring. As it was, there was no energy and a deep fatigue from the previous day and week. Everyone having left, I had nothing and couldn’t rouse myself to a day of many hills that I couldn’t have a good shot at.

So I was left with the ignominy of pulling out of my own ride only a day and one-third in. Disappointing to say the least; and a fair amount of worry that I’d made a ridiculous course that no one would enjoy – funny how those voices materialise. But I knew I was dog-tired and resolved to look after myself and not beat myself up too much. I tried to remind myself that I ride such places for enjoyment; if it’s not fun on some level, there’s little point.

In the end, few made it past Napier and no one finished the 750 km route. Four did amazingly well to make it through the many hills inland of Wairoa and pulled out before the last hundred-odd kilometres back to Napier; I think I misstepped in ending the route in Napier to try and help people with travel logistics. Plenty of things learned again; they may be useful if I find the enthusiasm and energy to run another HBAT. In separating my own disheartening HBAT from the weekend in general: people got out riding bikes, seeing new places in good weather, being challenged and spending time with friends new and old – so I’m counting that as a win.

Since then, I took a couple of weeks doing comparatively little and dealing with the disappointment of my own ride and the tiredness. I was unsure if my excitement for doing big bikepacking rides would return, which was concerning with two big South Island adventures coming up late-summer. Unfortunately I could not get up for the Mega ten days ago, but with a couple of shorter and less ambitious bikepacking trips over the last two weekends, the keenness to ride far and see plenty of new things is slowly returning – huzzah!