Category Archives: bikepacking

bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

NITT 2 – Mataroa to Tokirima

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A day utterly dominated by the North Island Main Trunk (NIMT). It started by the night being dominated so, at least half a dozen trains thundering past kept me from sustained sleep – but I was rested enough to have fed the school cat again, packed up and got riding before dawn.

Heading out of town, the road briefly followed the tracks – but they soon headed north as I went west.

Quiet country roads had the expected serving of climbs and descents as I warmed. Short, pleasant sections of gravel came, went, came again and eventually disappeared.

Turning north, I was heading straight for Ruapehu – it far closer than the previous day.

Crossing the rails again, I joined the service road that is listed as an alternative for riding on the highway. It started out mild enough, I enjoyed passing motor vehicles as they carefully negotiated the large potholes. At times ballast had subsided from the railway, making for some deep chunky gravel. Approaching halfway to Ohakune, it got worse: there was a deep, swift stream crossing I wasn’t keen on, so that forced me onto a narrow rail bridge; then the service road had been freshly laid with uncompacted gravel for kilometres. Eventually I tired of that and bailed through a farm to the highway – I suggest the service road is avoided on a bike.

In Ohakune for a big, long breakfast I managed to avoid the draw of all things carrot-themed. The Old Coach Road trail held a far stronger attraction. Based on the old coach road (rather obviously) that for some years in the early twentieth century linked the two unconnected ends of the NIMT, it had clearly been well built. Over a hundred years later, the stone laid to bench the track and weatherproof it was still obvious. Routing of railways being even more dependent than bike trails on making the best use of the topography, the interpretative panels were a fascinating study in history, geography, engineering and perseverance in trying conditions.

A more recent, straighter, viaduct built to cater for increased speed of new trains.

The old viaduct had been restored to allow human-powered passage.

I was surprised at just how short the trains were; I expect, and hope, there’s some technical reason for that.

The riding was most pleasant too, the green cover keeping the heat away.

Another closed viaduct.

This sign gets the day’s “bleedingly obvious” prize.

The northern trailhead deposits one in Horopito, home to a car wrecker’s yard since the forties it’s quite the juxtaposition with all the surrounds.

Another Ruapehu shot, this time with decaying transport relics.

One of the more well known of such establishments in NZ, it’s been used as a location for quintessential Kiwi films such as Smash Palace, Goodbye Pork Pie and Hunt for the Wilderpeople (not majestical, however).

Twenty kilometres of undulating highway took me north to National Park, a late lunch and resupply for the next eighty kilometres to Taumaranui. Alongside the NIMT line again, the tourist train (Auckland – Wellington) rolled past, I must do that trip one day.

For a change, Ngauruhoe

For the second time in the day, I was excited to get to ride for the first time a trail that I’ve known of for years – but never had occasion to explore. Fisher’s Track would, in quick fashion, drop through all the elevation I’d been gradually gaining over the day and much of the previous day’s too. A paper road through native bush and then scrubby farmland, it was also well formed and, in the dry weather, easy riding. After all the climbing, a fast and effortless way to cover twenty-five kilometres – even if I had to earn half of it back soon.

Seems legit.

Farming around here didn’t look particularly profitable.

Easy gravel riding down the Retaruke River valley took me to a decision point. I could retrace a gravel section I’d done on Tour Aotearoa or see what the alternative sealed option up to Owhango looked like.

First I paused at the Kaitieke war memorial.

Seeing new places won out over even gravel riding, so up Oio Rd it was. It started mildly enough, before kicking steeply to quickly give three hundred metres gain. After a day of middling temperature, a high smoke layer had helped, at five in the afternoon I was sweltering on that climb. The gloves were off, along with the helmet and skullcap. No need to stop at Owhango, it was straight into what I remember as an exceptionally long, hot and scenic climb on the TA. In this direction, I was looking forward to the drop to Taumaranui.

I’d conveniently forgotten the lumpiness at the top, and the little climb. But then it was mostly downhill, and still scenic – this time in evening light. Down Hikumutu Rd and through the village, the community swimming pool was tempting.

Crossing the Whanganui for the first time on this trip, I was once again taken with wonder pondering how this already large river makes such a long circuitous journey to the sea through so many hills with little elevation to lose. Finding dinner may have also taken a fair chunk of my attention. My favourite cafe from previous bikepacking trips was long since closed that day, but Thai cuisine was a nice change from the usual fare.

With an hour of daylight left, I still had riding time to spare – so I left the NIMT for the last time that day. While night riding is fine, one of the most important motivators for me on such trips is seeing things – that doesn’t happen so much following a small beam of light through the night. This end of the Forgotten World Highway being relatively flat, I assumed I had sufficient legs left to potter on into the fine evening. As dark gathered, I popped into the Ohinepane campsite – it was strangely busy, and also had quite a few mosquitos; I continued. Nearing ten, I found another country school and settled in for the night in the tiny vestibule of a small historic-listed building. The chief purpose of the room seemed to be to house the community’s AED and scores of spiders.

Off to sleep with no mosquitos for company, I was once again pleased with all the new things I’d seen, new trails and roads covered, good food and pulling the average up towards the two hundred kilometres per day that I was counting on to get home in time. Only the slightest of niggles appeared, but I’ve long since learnt generally something will hurt a little bit and it’ll move around.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

NITT 1 – Napier to Mataroa via Gentle Annie and Taihape

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Inspired by, but ultimately unable to ride the Kopiko Aotearoa at the end of February (a 1100 km bikepacking event between Cape Egmont and East Cape with about a hundred people riding each way), I hatched my own little plan to steal away and ride a more direct route that had far more sections I was unfamiliar with (thanks for the route, Pete). This shorter route meant that I, optimistically, had enough time to ride from home across the North Island to Cape Egmont, meet Pete and ride to East Cape with him, before riding home solo. So with a week off work I set off to traverse the North Island twice and then back to Napier – the NITT was born.

The first day was expected to be the toughest – the notoriously hilly route from Napier to Taihape. It’s all sealed, but I’d found a gravel alternate to make the last third to Taihape new and more interesting – not to mention slower. Similar to the start of last year’s Easter Escapade, I was confident I’d get this big day done and therefore meet Pete as planned on Monday evening.

Early morning, I also worked in a roadies’ favourite that I’d not ridden before.

Gradually I climbed above the Ngaruroro and headed to join Napier-Taihape Rd.

After sixty-five kilometres the climbing began in earnest as the sun really started to beat down, there was a gentle westerly which cooled things a little. With no resupply until Taihape, I was well loaded with food and being particularly careful not to succumb yet again to some level of heat stroke. One big climb and descent done, I figured I had the time and need for a break off route at Kuripapango.

It certainly was tranquil back down at the Ngaruroro.

Refreshingly cool water, I soaked my legs for some time before climbing back up to the road.

The Gentle Annie climb to the highest point of the day done by early afternoon, it was again clear enough to see Ruapehu – in fact, the mountain would keep popping into view rather pleasingly throughout the afternoon. Then, my turn-off to the unknown. I’d not found any intel of people biking this road, just one report online of a motorbike ride through – at least I knew the road went.

I was about to drop a lot of height – but the sealed road does that too.

It was a big descent, as expected – but very corrugated, it wasn’t exactly fast. Treating some water from a stream, I then happened across a big sheep station complex of buildings – there is a convenient tap on the outside of the Otupae Station office.

Alongside the Mangaohane Stream, things flattened nicely.

I enjoyed this 150 m climb.

The descent to and then climb away from the Rangitikei is far gentler than on the main road and really quite nice.

Thirty kilometres of gravel over, I was pleased to find a school and more water at Pukeokahu. The hills got smaller and much more shaded for the eighty minutes remaining to Taihape; I started to salivate thinking of a large steak dinner.

After such a clear day, over here I was surprised that there was a fair bit of smoke sitting around having drifted again over the Tasman.

Into town after twelve hours in the sun and plenty of hills, my search of the main street for a decent feed was fruitless. I filled up on an ordinary burger and good chocolate milkshake, resupplied for the next section to Ohakune and rode north out of town. Whereupon, I promptly found a recently opened steakhouse. I couldn’t go past that, so quickly settled in for second dinner. Such friendly service, it was disappointing I couldn’t fit much of the steak in – but I did leave holding a box full of steak cut into small pieces (someone wasn’t carrying a knife) for ten leisurely kilometres to Mataroa, where I figured I’d bivy at the school for the night.

Suddenly, Ruapehu again.

A last little climb and descent, I found the school and settled in for the night – taking care to protect my takeout from the school cat. According to the chart on the window, it hadn’t been fed for a week – I found the biscuits, fed it and marked the chart; my breakfast was safe, I thought.

In my bivy bag to avoid the mosquitos, it was warm – but I tried to sleep satisfied with the first day going to plan. Plenty of hills, some new roads, all day in the sun and heat with no heat stroke and much more exploring to look forward to the following days.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

HBOP 3 – Whirinaki to Matahorua

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At lower elevation, sleeping in the proffered gazebo was far warmer than the previous night. Rampant mosquitoes were a drawback; eventually I succumbed and crawled inside my bivy bag. Neither of us got much sleep that night, with Pete being a little ill to add to the sleep-robbery of whining bugs. Astoundingly, two different people in our generous hosting party added a little extra to their respective pans – combining to satisfy even our hunger:

A more leisurely departure, we left around half-seven facing a similar distance day to that which took us to Whirinaki – a little less climbing, no singletrack and more sealed roads should see us finish earlier. First up, fifty-five kilometres of deserted forestry roads. The climbing began straight away to warm us up. Having driven through this easement through privately owned forest, I remembered more plantation – but was pleasantly surprised at how much native forest there was to cycle through.

The rain looked like it was just over the provincial border, so it was some time before we found it. As we climbed through five hundred metres of elevation, Pete was feeling the effects of a restless night – I had plenty of stops before it was suggested I ride on ahead.

Getting on towards noon, with a much better appreciation of the lay of the land I’ve now driven through four times, I was taken aback to see a pick-up just before exiting the forest. The first of the paper roads that I hoped would cut out kilometres of highway was a big jumble of locked gates, signs promising video surveillance, tracks that didn’t follow the legal corridor and six groups of beehives protecting the route that looked most likely. Not overly comfortable with that, I climbed up the old highway to join the traffic on the current one. We were later told that the current owners of the land are rather protective of their crop, of questionable legality, so I’m glad I didn’t find that out for myself.

Mixing it with the roaring traffic down a long hill in stinging rain was over soon enough, and I was through the Waipunga River gorge and stopping at the only store of the day – Tarawera Cafe is a busy little spot, with a fantastic display of local history and plenty of food. I enjoyed refuelling as I watched the constant rotation of squally showers blowing through and the sun reemerging; Pete arrived as I was finishing up, so I lingered a while longer. It promptly poured down, jacket on and a bit more highway until the next paper road. This one went through – I climbed a steady ten percent for half an hour, the jacket not lasting long as the afternoon warmed and the views opened out. Once more, my appreciation of the connectedness of many hills and valleys I’ve only previously glimpsed improved.

Northern Kawekas obscured – but the plateau in the centre is where Steve & I ended up on the Sunday morning of the last hot springs trip.

A little gentle ridge riding led to a big fast downhill, mostly on highway, to cross the Mohaka again before a short grovel up off the main road onto Waitara Rd. Past Glenfalls campground the seal ends and once again there was no traffic to speak of; but the rollers, oh the rollers. Every climb seemed to be followed immediately by an almost-equally large descent. A couple of sprinkles of rain came in on the now helpful wind.

I still haven’t done the Bell Rock hike, but I knew we had to climb to about the height of that ridge before the last long descent.

With just thirty kilometres to go, I promised myself a stop at five hundred metres elevation to eat most of my remaining food and enjoy the scenery before putting on some music and enjoying the remainder of the climb. The steepness soon abated and it really was most pleasant to ride up a road I’d only ever ridden down before.

At the junction with Pohokura Rd a little sun broke through to throw dappled light on yet another section of road to explore.

Most of the way up, one could look northwest over to hills we’d recently been riding through and around.

Clagged in again, but there was no rain on the long descent.

In fact, there was some evening light as favourite views of Darkys Spur and surrounds came back.

Looking west from Matahorua Rd, almost there…

Ten kilometres of seal, some more rollers – kinder this time – and one last little climb later, I was rolling back to the car. It may have taken five months from conception to get to ride my little HBOP loop – but well worth the wait. What a fine and full weekend – fifty hours, 380 km and about 8500 m of climbing. But numbers alone hardly tell the story of all the deserted backroads, greenery and hills everywhere, great people and pleasant mid-summer riding weather (i.e. I didn’t cook). Bike in the car, I popped in to meet Graham and Sue – plied with cups of tea and slices of cake, conversation of bike adventures past and future, history of the local area and potentially arranging access to private land flowed. I could have stayed far longer; but Pete was still out there and there was the small matter of driving home, eating a lot and getting to work in the morning – so off I went suitably exhausted, but fizzing for the ride completed and more rides to come.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, GPS, national park, NZ

HBOP 2 – Waihi Rd to Whirinaki via Moerangi Track

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A brisk morning greeted us, thankfully there were some rollers to warm us up a tad before dropping down to cross the Waikaretakehe and head towards the lake. Clouding over as we reached Piripaua power station – the lower of three in the scheme. Surprised again to show Pete a new road, we got off the main road and climbed gravel up to the quaint dam town of Tuai.

Across Lake Whakamarino to the Tuai power station.

Remembering my first ride through here, I was sure we could avoid the sealed section of Lake Rd and ascend beside the penstocks.

Over twenty percent, it wasn’t the easy option – but it was quiet.

It flattened out ever so slightly.

Finding the upper power station, Kaitawa, I figured we’d done enough pushing – heading for the main road it was for the last climbing up to Lake Waikaremoana. The precipitation ranged from mist to mizzle to drizzle, we arrived at the average store well in time for mid-morning pies – even if we had to microwave them ourselves. Still a little surprised to be riding mid Hawke’s Bay summer in rain and 10ºC, we were making good time and should make it to cafe at Ruatahuna before the two o’clock closure.

The moisture did at least damp the dust on the long stretch of gravel – and keep the traffic volumes low. It really was quite pleasant, even if we didn’t see quite as much as usual – the sights were different.

Across Whanganui Inlet

Leaving the lake and heading north.

I wouldn’t have been too surprised if that sign proved correct.

A longer climb took us up to the watershed and deposited us in the other Bay – the Bay of my childhood, Bay of Plenty. As we hoped, dropping quickly we soon left the clouds behind and found some warmth – and an open cafe. The menu was a bit restricted due to illness, but the frybread fish burger went down very easily – along with a pot of tea.

Is that the fish or the frybread?

Heading for the Moerangi Track and perhaps a night in a backcountry hut, we stocked up a little at the store before a pleasant stretch alongside the upper Whakatane River. I do so enjoy riding this area and each time piecing a little bit more of the geography together in my mind. Disavowing some poor lost young fullas that they were on the way to Whakatane, they soon turned and passed us again. Another climb and descent over, we headed up Okahu Rd towards the trailhead. The sudden increase in gradient at the end of the road was not as long as I remembered and by three-thirty we were heading into thirty-five kilometres of Grade 4 singletrack. I was hopeful we’d get out by dark, but a lot would depend on trail condition.

Ever so slightly more rugged gravel road riding.

Not quite looking up in time…

At the top of the first climb, back in Hawke’s Bay and admiring the ferns.

A nice section led us over ever-skinnier bridges, some rideable, some not, and down to Skips Hut.

Where it promptly began to rain again.

Up and over another couple of ridges, it was nice to be out in the late afternoon sun at Roger’s Hut.

Pete emerging from the mature native forest.

The next section to Moerangi Hut climbed steadily, a bit more technical, most was rideable but at times it made more sense to push one’s bike a little. Another break in the sun, snacking, at the hut was called for before the concerted spin and push to the high point of the track. Enjoyable as the long, bumpy descent is – maybe one day I’ll do it on an unloaded full-suspension bike. Occasional breaks in the forest cover gave glimpses of more bush and forest stretching to distant landmarks as the light faded. Just lovely.

At the far trail end by eight o’clock, three and a half hours of riding time with a loaded bike seemed quite reasonable. I was hoping whoever was at the Recreation Camp ten kilometres down a gravel road would take kindly to two smelly bikepackers invading and requesting a small patch of the giant lawn to camp on. The group of five families were lovely and plied us with tea, marshmallows to toast on the fire and a gazebo to sleep in – all we had to offer were, astonishing to them, tales of our day’s ride.

What a day it was too – not an easy day by any stretch (there were a few hills), but with plenty to see and some good breaks in the weather most enjoyable to be out exploring.