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To and from Great Southern Brevet 2021

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When Guy casually asked when riding down his way two months ago if I was doing the Great Southern Brevet (of course I was, I’ve been waiting two years to repeat the toughest, and arguably best, bikepacking event I’ve done), little did I expect the offer of transport direct to Tekapo. With commercial flights already booked and paid for, I wasn’t about to turn down the opportunity for my first flight in a light plane – not to mention the convenience of not having hours of driving between airports and Tekapo. As it happens, it’s much easier to get flights refunded these days. Yet another bonus was not having to disassemble and pack my bike up – such a time and effort saver!
So that is how I came to be waiting for Guy one Friday afternoon, at the very airfield where Dad learnt to fly forty-plus years ago (we later worked out that the same instructor taught both of them, thirty-odd years apart). I had plenty of time to wander around and pose my bike against one of its more unusual backdrops. It was not hard to work out which plane was Guy’s – it already had a bikepacking stead in the back, and had a bit of genuine farm coating on the wings.

Two classic Cessna 185s, Guy’s at front (1964).

Having spent most of its life around Mt Cook, ZK-CHL was well recognised around the southern airstrips we landed at.

Guy arrived, my bike was loaded, lifejackets were alarmingly donned (water, what?!) and in no time we were in the air heading southwest.

So much to see out the window and observe in the cockpit as Guy went about routines – endlessly fascinating. Suddenly handed the controls as Guy ate and we approached the Tararuas, I was hardly a natural. But we didn’t hit the ranges, so I’m taking that. Over the course of the flights, I had a few more attempts at handling the plane, which often just flew itself in calm conditions, and enjoyed getting a bit more of a feel for it.

Tararua District

Kapiti Island

Down south now, Molesworth.

Castle Hill area.

A bit of aerial Tour Te Waipounamu scouting.

Lake Tekapo

Two hours and forty minutes later, we were landing at Tekapo, clearing a bit of junk away and tying the plane down out of the wind. Just a few kilometres to roll down the hill to dinner and we were there for the Great Southern Brevet.

After a fantastic week bikepacking all over lands south, the return trip carried on south for a night in Alexandra before the three hours back north.

Different bikepacking bike-packing.

We did see a lot of Mt Cook from a distance on the trip home, on consecutive days.

A different perspective on parts of the GSB route was also fun – Flanagan’s Pass looking much easier here than the long hike-a-bike, although I do note the lack of a visible track.

We rode around the bottom of Lake Ohau a week previously, from right to left and back.

Sunday’s campsite beside the Lindis.

The route down from Thompson’s Gorge. A lot less windy this day.

Heading towards the Clyde Dam down Lake Dunstan, all the while checking out the new cycle trail on the true right that will connect Clyde and Cromwell.

The last section to be connected, the engineering going into the trail is quite remarkable and I look forward to riding it the next time I’m in Central Otago for a holiday.

The drop off the tough Hawksburn Rd to Clyde.

A trying view while spending the night at Mark and Paula’s house – thanks.

Time to go again.

Over the Ida Valley to the Hawkduns.

The climb up Thompsons Gorge, Ida Valley behind.

Little Omarama Saddle, and Mt Cook again.

Manuherika River and the Hawkduns again, on the left.

Hawkduns, St Marys and Kakanuis (distant).

Flying itself on a calm day.

Lake Benmore, Benmore Dam, Otematata and beyond.

No prizes.

Canterbury Plains patchwork.

Suddenly, puppies. Labraspoodles I’m told. We stopped for lunch at Guy’s sister’s in Rangiora.

Fetching lifejackets, I must say! I could get used to Hawke’s Bay Bikepacking trips like this.

Crossing the coastline at Kaikoura, Guy explained some of the earthquake damage (gosh, that’s over four years ago now). You’d think it would be Kaikoura, but it was just off the coast of Wairarapa in Cook Strait, that Guy spotted a big sperm whale. Suddenly we were banking down steeply (in my limited experience) to two hundred feet to get a closer look. I think that is the first whale I’ve seen in the wild; an unexpected bonus to memorable and engaging trips to and from the GSB.

Drying off down the bottom of the North Island by now.

Can’t thank Guy enough for the flights, so enjoyable – near perfect flying weather certainly helped! What bookends to an exceptional week – it’s hard to determine whether the riding or flying comes out on top, twas all that spectacular!

around home, bikepacking, bikes, event, GPS, NZ

HBAT20 shortened

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Ten days between returning from the excellent West Coast bikepacking tour and setting off for the 2020 edition of the Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour was always going to be a bit rushed for sorting out the last minute details. Still all the things were done: farm inductions, finalising the tracking, answering the emails and questions, assembling my bike, getting overly excited and following up a last minute section through stunning private land, adding said section to the route and so on. From a few days out I noticed my hours of sleep gradually decrease to about three hours per night and the telltale tic of tiredness return for the first time in some years.

Twas all worth it though to have fourteen riders assemble at Ranui Farm Park the Thursday night before the four day long weekend. That worked really well (save an annoying miscommunication with room bookings), getting to see everyone for some hours before the ride started at dawn the following morning. So good to have half the field returning riders and get to meet for the first time other people I’d only exchanged emails with.

Friday morning and ready to go before sunrise.

Finally, I could challenge myself on the course I’d designed to be as such, and interesting to me. Turns out more time should have been paid to my pedals, as one promptly fell to pieces and slid off the spindle still attached to my foot. Bit of a showstopper, but as far as a place to have such things happen – one kilometre from the start is about as good as any on a remote course. Sad to see everyone else go, I turned and hoped Greg hadn’t left for Napier already. Phew, he was still there and we were soon heading home – where I swapped in pedals from another bike and made the drive back. The crazy amount of fog from just north of the start all the way to Napier persisted for the drive’s entirety, but strangely was not on the course at all.

Three hours later I was back on the route and wondering if I’d still make my goal of being back in Napier that night. A nice gentle start, in this crazy year it was a privilege to be out riding such a ride with or without the group ahead. Seeing many tyre tracks in the gravel reminded me of this and brought a smile to my face – some of it may have been a touch of pride that I’d somehow convinced people to get out and spend their long weekend on a course I’d designed. They may or may not trust me in such a way again.

Still flat, not for long.

A three hour delay wasn’t really that frustrating, after all I was soon out riding in the sun drenched countryside.

Diverting from last year’s course, the hills quickly began on a section I love. But first, a long moment to pause on the the very spot where a couple of months before I’d met a fantastic farmer who generously allowed us to ride through his farm. Tragically he’s gone far too young after a freak accident on the farm; I only chatted to Harry for quarter of an hour, yet it’s had quite an impact – part of it, another reason to savour being able to get out and make the most of opportunities presented. Eventually back riding – a dead-end road, a hilly farm crossing and then a blissful section with twenty kilometres of gravel, views of the ocean and surrounding farmland, grass up the middle of the little used road and then the long descent to sea level…

After noon by now, the store and excellent coffee cart at Porangahau was most welcome for chatting and refuelling before the steep climb up Old Hill Rd. Was a little mean putting that on the course, but the gradual downhill from the top is, I think, worth it. With over twenty kilometres to go to the beach, the tide would be mostly out by the time I arrived. Along the coastal section of Blackhead Rd, I was entertained by a stunt plane practising – a spectacular show which seemed just for me. The climb at the end of the road was not far from my mind, but conquered as I began to slow a hundred kilometres in.

The tide was still heading out, the sand not yet firm and for the first time that day a headwind – toughest trip on this beach yet.

It was encouraging to see so many people out on the beaches – camping, fishing, diving, walking, on motorbikes. Far more than we saw last year, mostly I expect because the weather was far better. Finding a hose to rinse my bike was a chance to chat to a local and top up water bottles before the big climb out of Pourerere. It’s a good one and I found my first other HBATer of the day at the top – another good opportunity for a chat. I thought I was just going to be on time to cross the second farm before night fell – when riding through was not allowed.

More wonderful, deserted gravel back down to sea level and Kairakau. A lovely evening it was shaping up to be. Stopping at the shearers quarters I found four other riders preparing to make use of the generous offer of accommodation from the farmer – alas the water supply was down. Time was tight for me to get up the big hill, but I, and the others, thought I could do it. Thankfully I know the route well enough, so I was not slowed by route finding difficulties; but I was starting to fade and on the steep, rugged grass farm track pushing my bike became more efficient than trying to ride.

South to all the places I’d just been.

There were far more gates to open and close this year, and plenty of stock around (those two not unrelated). Light fading for the big downhill, I certainly was cutting it fine. Quite the trade-off to make the most of the available light, but not reckless on rough farm tracks in the gathering gloom. Just out before dark, phew, and towards Waimarama. Half-eight by now and completely dark, my plan for making it home hadn’t really changed. It probably should have as I walked anything remotely steep up the last big climb; very odd – I have never come close to walking up Maraetotara Rd, steep as it is, before. Strange thing, I was never in any doubt that I’d make it home – one just had to keep on going.

Suddenly rain on the downhill, it didn’t last long and there was but forty kilometres home. That was just over two hours, and I was pleased to see I’d missed much more rain. Bike in the garage and into my house to sneak around trying not to wake a houseful of fellow bikepackers. I think I managed it, but couldn’t bring myself to find too much food lest I disturb people that had had just as big a day of riding as me. My poor body probably needed the fuel to mend a bit.

Head racing, I hardly slept again and woke early when the house rose to head north for a much tougher day of riding. Completely shattered, I dragged myself up and deliberated whether I should continue the course. I’d at least not fallen into the trap of scratching at the end of the day, instead waiting to see what morning would bring. As it was, there was no energy and a deep fatigue from the previous day and week. Everyone having left, I had nothing and couldn’t rouse myself to a day of many hills that I couldn’t have a good shot at.

So I was left with the ignominy of pulling out of my own ride only a day and one-third in. Disappointing to say the least; and a fair amount of worry that I’d made a ridiculous course that no one would enjoy – funny how those voices materialise. But I knew I was dog-tired and resolved to look after myself and not beat myself up too much. I tried to remind myself that I ride such places for enjoyment; if it’s not fun on some level, there’s little point.

In the end, few made it past Napier and no one finished the 750 km route. Four did amazingly well to make it through the many hills inland of Wairoa and pulled out before the last hundred-odd kilometres back to Napier; I think I misstepped in ending the route in Napier to try and help people with travel logistics. Plenty of things learned again; they may be useful if I find the enthusiasm and energy to run another HBAT. In separating my own disheartening HBAT from the weekend in general: people got out riding bikes, seeing new places in good weather, being challenged and spending time with friends new and old – so I’m counting that as a win.

Since then, I took a couple of weeks doing comparatively little and dealing with the disappointment of my own ride and the tiredness. I was unsure if my excitement for doing big bikepacking rides would return, which was concerning with two big South Island adventures coming up late-summer. Unfortunately I could not get up for the Mega ten days ago, but with a couple of shorter and less ambitious bikepacking trips over the last two weekends, the keenness to ride far and see plenty of new things is slowly returning – huzzah!

bikepacking, bikes, event, GPS, NZ

Six Corners Challenge – The Western Half

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The framework of the Six Corners Challenge is different to any other bikepacking event I’ve ever done and is what finally drew me to the north west and upper west of the South Island on my bike. Instead of following a set route as quickly as one could, riders were to visit the so-called Six Corners of Golden Bay in any order they chose over the thirty-six hours of the weekend – as quickly as they could. The west is very flat, while the east is very hilly. I planned to ride the hills on the Saturday and explore the west on Sunday.

Weather was in the headlines beforehand with the claim of a soon approaching storm with the biggest measured pressure differential between the north and the south of our small country. Clearly that meant wind, and a lot of it – I revised my ideas and decided to head to the exposed western part of the course first.

Arriving at quarter to six, I was starting to get concerned I’d not correctly found the village square.

Gradually other riders congregated, all new faces to me, some with familiar names. I lost count at about twenty, I think there were twenty-five – the largest turn-out yet, despite the deteriorating forecast. After a quick briefing we were off, the field splitting east and west.

A lot of seal first, the riding was easy as the sun rose. With little traffic it was pleasant enough to chat away as people came and went. A few were from Wellington, but most the upper South Island – I think I’d travelled the furthest. Having ditched half of my touring kit, I quickly found I was both over-biked for the easy terrain and carrying a little too much. Oh well, the weather was likely to turn and I still had two weeks of touring on this bike when it would not be enough of a mountain bike; a good compromise though, I thought – even if a gravel bike looked ideal for the Six Corners course.

Past Collingwood, I was tiring of the flat seal – why weren’t we going up that bulldozer track?

Certainly wasn’t any wind about yet!

I lagged behind a little, heading to Cape Farewell seemed logical to me – something about getting the top of the South Island for my first corner.

Huzzah, some gravel and a little climbing.

As I neared the end of the road, there weren’t many people coming back – most had chosen instead to turn west and head down the coast first.

Surprisingly still here, I enjoyed the ride back chatting to a local about his experiences televising big international cricket matches.

Turning west I lost my riding buddy as he went to Brown Hut; over a small hill the road turned to gravel and skirted around the surprisingly large Whanganui Inlet on a series of seventeen causeways. The clouds were scurrying through and rain threatened for some time.

Stopping here was a cue for the heavens to open for ten minutes.

By the time I got up here, the rain gear had to go.

The Tasman Sea is just behind those hills, as my route continued left.

Bridging from the inlet to the coast past farmland (I guess the only reason the road is there?), riders returning from the Anatori River corner began to appear. The ten kilometre section to the river paralleling the coast had more than enough little pinch climbs to keep the legs honest.

That’s Corner Two, just out of shot a rather makeshift campground filled with hunting, fishing and whitebaiting types.

Retracing my tyre tracks was not as unpleasant as it might have been – it gave an opportunity to see somewhere I’d, until very recently, never been from a different angle.

A most excellent late-lunch and large pot of tea at the Old School set me up to ride south to Brown Hut, at the northern end of the Heaphy Track. It was still incredibly windless and the riding was still easy going – I was enjoying looking around, even if by then I’d lost all company.

This place wasn’t open late on a Saturday afternoon, more’s the pity.

Hitting the gravel for the last stretch to the hut, a short flurry of riders appeared – I was only ninety-odd minutes behind. What had I been doing all day? Slow because I’m looking around too much or looking around so much because I’m slow? Whatever, it had been a good day out and I was pleased to take the required photo at another corner.

The last day of standard time for the year, the sky simultaneously darkened with the sun setting (not that I could see it) and the clouds thickening. With forty easy kilometres to go back to Takaka, the rain started. Before long I was in all my rain gear and the heavens opened. Fortunately it was not cold or too windy, as it was a downpour all the way back. Any downhills had to be taken carefully lest the rain strip some skin off my face; the few vehicles there were gave me a wide berth, either out of pity or trying to avoid the crazy person on a bike.

Back in town to find all the kitchens shut, I was a walking puddle attempting to find some food. A large bowl of shoestring fries failed to appease my hunger, but the cup of tea was most welcome. With the storm having now arrived, I wasn’t going to see much so returned to my cabin, opted for a warm shower and snuggled into bed. It had been a while since I’d ridden so far, I was pleased to have seen many new places, that the weather was mostly good and I still had legs to keep riding. A long, flat and mostly sealed ride not exactly my forte or favourite, but hey ho – plenty more to come on this trip. The other corners could wait, it helped that I’d already seen one of them on my ride over Takaka Hill the previous day.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, event, MTB, NZ

The Christmas Letter 2019

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Catching some time as I fly south for Christmas, there’s a chance to sit, consider and write of the year. Naturally, there was much biking. Without any really big trips (longer than a week), I’m pleased to have consistently ridden all year and clocked up my biggest year yet – ticking over eleven thousand kilometres yesterday on my last commute of the year.

The longest ride of the year was way back in January, the Great Southern Brevet, which turned out to be the toughest one I’ve done yet. After being blown off my bike four days in a row, I’ve a new standard for windiness. Fantastic scenery and good company accompanied the challenge and it was a satisfying finish – I look forward to the next one, and more exploring around that area.

Day Two of the GSB, a short section of Otago Central Rail Trail – before we got up high and the wind hit.

A late evening ride up Danseys Pass.

All other bikepacking for the year was North Island focused – much close to home as I thoroughly enjoyed planning and scouting the first Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour. Through a mild and dry winter, much exploring of back roads led to a 550 km route from the south to the north of the province. I’d have happily done all that work so I could ride it solo, so I was thrilled that thirteen of us set off together and nine made it to the end on Mahia Peninsula over many hills. In the two months since then, a couple of low-key overnighters from Napier have been well attended and enjoyed; satisfying and such fun to share some local routes with others.

South from Te Apiti Station towards Kairakau.

HBAT departing Waipawa.

Heading to Waipatiki for the last and shortest overnighter of the year.

Strangely, I also entered a MTB race – the quintessential Hawke’s Bay event, Triple Peaks. For the first time since I’ve lived here, the forecast was good – meaning that all three summits would be included. For a MTB race, there was a lot of hike-a-bike and as the name suggests – plenty of climbing. That suited me well, and I was surprised with a top ten finish. Most enjoyable and pleasing to finally get up to the top of Mt Kahuranaki.

Nearing the top of Kahuranaki.

Unusually, biking took a bit of a back seat for three months when, after many years of being a non-runner and wondering if I had a marathon in me, I bit the bullet and entered the local one. Never having run more than ten kilometres, I settled into three months of run-specific training, with only Easter bikepacking distracting me near the end. I lined up on an unusually frigid morning quietly confident that I’d somehow run fifty percent further than I ever had before. It all went as expected and I was pleased to finish easily within my goal of four hours. I’m not sure I’ll ever train for another, it takes too much time away from riding – but more trail running and keeping run-fit that way appeals.

Since then, running has mostly been Saturday morning Park Runs – which I find a great way to get the weekend started. I’ve enjoyed a little bit of Park Run tourism, but mostly I’ve run my local one and it’s been good to get to know a few people there. It’s now regularly over a hundred people out running and walking the flat, smooth five kilometre course. With my attendance being somewhat sporadic (biking trips take precedence), I was well pleased with improving my best time a couple of times throughout the year; now down tantalisingly close to nineteen minutes, that leaves a good goal for 2020.

My first island holiday, in Niue, was great to have planned straight after the marathon. Completely different to any other vacation I’ve ever been on, I thoroughly enjoyed a relaxing week spent with Adele and James and McKirdys snorkelling, walking, exploring and eating our way around the small island. Managing to tack a weekend in Melbourne on to a work trip for my birthday and a long weekend visiting family in Sydney were worthwhile additions to make up my complement of overseas travel.

Closer to home, various volunteer opportunities come and go. Favourite ones are always helping out at different events – biking, triathlon, running and so on, so I look forward to more of those next year. A steady stream of guests have been through my home this year, some of which help to offset the cost of house maintenance. With a new roof, some building work and finally finishing painting the exterior of the house, it’s looking good and should be able to withstand the elements for many more years. Painting weatherboards while listening to books I find pleasantly relaxing, but there will be far less of that next year – so more time for exploring near and far on a bike. Cycle touring guests arrive with irregularity – they’re good fun and always happy to share stories of places toured and ideas for more rides.

Work this year has been fulfilling as I settle into the role of Process Safety Engineer. Pleasingly two projects that have been going for three years reached significant milestones – most notably our safety case was approved by the regulator, the inspection next year shall be an interesting gauge of how we’re doing embedding many new systems introduced over those years. A mid-year course had me sitting an exam for the first time since university; rather out of practice and with seventy-five percent required to pass, it was a bit of a shock to the system (especially four hours long), so I was pleased to pass and be able to add Functional Safety Engineer to my few qualifications – not that that helps much with riding bikes. 2020 will prove to be interesting as all those in the direct line above me are changing roles, and my role will continue to develop.

Not something I’ve done, but very exciting news nonetheless: there’s recently been a new arrival in the family and I have my first nibling. Many congratulations to Adele and James, I look forward to meeting young George shortly. Unexpectedly, he’s also my middle-namesake – quite the honour there. I’m down south for the holidays, there may be a little bit of riding and running between the festivities and time with family. I expect next year will develop further on that part – I’m particularly keen on a couple of riding routes this summer that have been on the list since I moved to Napier. Best wishes for all.