Category Archives: bikes

Renegades Muster 2021 – Day 2 – Ruatiti to Ohura

The manuka did an average job of keeping overnight showers off me, but I was warm and comfortable enough in my bivy bag. Despite the broken night’s sleep, I arose feeling well – which was a vast improvement on the previous day’s riding. A leisurely seven o’clock start and we hit the gravel heading up the Ruatiti Valley – delayed slightly by a big yarn to the neighbouring farmer. Pleasant riding, there were a couple of minor ascents that I was pleased we’d not tackled the night before – the Ruatiti Domain being a most suitable overnight stop.

Back on the Mangapurua Track for the second time in six months, I did at least remember the climb is steady and not too bad. The soft gravel I certainly could not remember – it having only been laid the day before, apparently just as the front runners went through! Thankfully there was usually a line on the edge of the trail which meant one needn’t spend much time wasting energy wallowing in the fresh gravel.

Ooh, new signs – doing a far better job of explaining the fascinating history of the area than the simple wooden markers denoting the name of the settlers of each unforgiving plot of land.

It had turned into a fine, clear and beautiful morning.

The three volcanoes were mostly capped with clouds, so here’s an idea of the country we were travelling through.

I was keen to see how the Kaiwhakauka Track rode downhill – my only previous experience on it some six years before I remember for an unwise attempt to ride up it in the dark. Much more of a hiking than a bike trail, there was a lot of pushing and it was exposed to some decent drops – I was most relieved to find the Mosley Campsite shelter and give up for the night.

This time, the downhill section to the intermediate farm was much fun and pretty fast. Down closer to Kaiwhakauka Stream, the trail deteriorated into plenty of deep puddles and bogs – particularly either side of each wee bridge. Nowadays there is extensive fencing along the edge, confirming that I was right to be concerned of falling into the abyss all those years ago. All that said, I thoroughly enjoyed the technical nature of it and the challenge to ride as much as possible. Eventually the energy required to muscle and balance a loaded bike was not worth expending, and I walked more as I waited for Brent. The final section, more gravel doubletrack, to Whakahoro (only two weeks before I’d been here setting off on the excellent paddle down the Whanganui, odd to be back in this remote place so soon) was in far better condition and we were soon delighted to find the cafe at Blue Duck Lodge was open.

The morning had really warmed and a big piece of bacon and egg pie with a pot of tea was in order; alas, no ice creams. As we lingered and covered ourselves with sunscreen for the afternoon, Rachel, Gina and Happy arrived. We lingered before departing together. It promptly clouded over, which was quite pleasant for the forty kilometre, mostly gravel, climb towards Owhango.

Oio Rd was excellent and not as much of a climb as I expected from riding down it in 2016.

Plenty of papa cliffs to wonder how they were still standing.

Kawautahi Road kicked up and the rain turned from drizzle to a decent shower – which helped cool us a little from the muggy afternoon. The gravel wetted, things slowed further – at the back of the field enjoying ourselves, we were hardly setting things alight. The reward for such a climb to the plateau was to promptly give up all the elevation with the long, remote and rural descent to Taumaranui – unfortunately it’s mostly sealed and therefore less interesting, but that does make it faster.

Time for a resupply; as another shower rolled through, the accommodation option that Gina and Rachel had gone for was once again tempting. But it wasn’t even four o’clock and knocking off the forty-five kilometres to another good overnight option made sense as there was plenty of day left and, while hilly, it was easily achievable.

Dinner and B&B booked with Michelle, who has been so supportive of bikepackers rolling through sleepy Ohura for years, into the rain Brent and I went. Past the hospital, it’s soon into a three-hundred metre climb on quiet Kururau Road – a favourite. The rain soon lessened and jackets were stowed for the rest of the day, actually – the rest of the trip for me.

The gravel was wet and slow, but soon steaming as the rain passed and the afternoon warmed again.

Past Otunui, we climbed again and as I tired from the day and the energy-sucking surface we seemed to reach the extent of the afternoon storm (we missed the thunder and lightning, others reported they were not so fortunate) as the road dried out and sped up.

Top of the descent to the brief section on the Forgotten World Highway.

Had to stop on the way down to bask in the evening light.

Off the “highway” for the last hour of easy and most-pleasant valley floor riding along Roto and Huia Roads, there was one last hill to crest before rolling into town with plenty of daylight left before catching up with Michelle, cleaning up and devouring a big plate of always-tasty Mexican food. A most excellent day riding with good company through some lumpy and remote terrain. I was pleased to be feeling pretty normal, albeit less fit and energetic, being out and exploring; while missing time with the friends I’d ordinarily be riding with mid-pack, I was happy just to be riding. Sleep came easily, after Happy turned up around ten o’clock and some astonishingly loud fireworks later (I assume those two were unrelated).

Renegades Muster 2021 – Day 1 – Whanganui to Ruatiti

Forty riders gathered at the Durie Hill Memorial Tower after sun-up. While there had been some rain overnight, none fell as the usual chatter and checking-out of bike set-ups ensued. Pleasingly, there had been the chance to catch-up with many familiar faces, and some new ones, the previous night – the morning of was a bit more subdued. Shortly after quarter-to-seven we were off east.

Start photo from Fay – the reason we had such an exciting ride to look forward to.

In what now seems to be my standard approach, I waited until the mad rush had subsided and pootled off. Feeling pretty flat, I was in no hurry across this section – which I’d ridden last on the TA, seemingly an age ago. I was soon riding by myself into the nagging wind for the hour before we turned north up the Whangaehu Valley. This section was new to me and I enjoyed the gradual ascent on quiet rural roads. Brent and I eventually caught up to Rachel and Gina, and our little group bimbled on. I was feeling pretty rough all day, so I was pleased for the company. As my body worked to replace the bag of blood taken the previous day, it was all I could do to keep supplying it with much food and many fluids – not much of a hardship really, but a bit of a time-suck. It was manageable, but I was hardly bursting with energy and just felt off all day.

The Burma Hill provided a steep challenge as the morning warmed. Satisfyingly, I could still climb – albeit slowly.

Big snack, sunscreen and regrouping stop at the top. The signs say it all.

Dropping back to the river, the steady gradient increased as we got up on the plateau. Things started to look more familiar as we soon joined the route I took across the island on my double traverse last year. The fifteen kilometre run into Ohakune was fast (half highway, half backroad) as we turned with the sou-easter.

Rangataua provided some surprise.

Serendipitous.

I was adamant I needed to go all the way into town, the five extra kilometres worth it for a big refuel and replacing all the snacks I’d devoured. The kebab was huge, and maybe not the best option – sitting rather heavily – but the berry smoothie went down a treat, as it was warm out.

Perhaps we’re doing gear-carrying wrong.

We four regrouped somewhere on the Old Coach Road; perhaps in a sign of how out of sorts I was, details are hazy. But I do remember we all suffered with full bellies on the the bumpy, practically-cobbled trail with big lumpy rocks. The third time in the last two years, it’s still a fascinating trail with the native bush and some significant NZ engineering history too.

Maybe it was because I’d seen much of the day’s route before, but another sure sign that the whole day had been a struggle was that I’d taken very few photos. Just focussing on keeping on was enough – I was confident that I’d be back to some sort of normal the following day, I just had to make it that far and not pull out of the ride before then. Decision time loomed at Horopito, where Gina and Rachel had a B&B organised. As tempting as calling it a day there was, it was only 135 kilometres in – a bit short to keep on our five-day plan. Thankfully, the next thirty kilometres were basically free – a big downhill and a very helpful tailwind.

Another big snack break and topping up of bottles before saying goodbyes, we rolled out for a lovely evening’s ride to Ruatiti Domain. The road predominantly sealed, it was easy going. A sudden cloudburst had me sheltering in the porch of an abandoned house, but that didn’t last long and it was warm enough that riding in the resulting drizzle didn’t require a jacket. I was pleased we were not thirty kilometres ahead dealing with rain on the notoriously sloppy Kaiwhakauka Trail.

Crossing the Maunganuioteao at the end of the day.

The domain was a delight by the river (sweet swimming hole!) – we scoped it top out and found it basically empty. Further down we found a lone Renegade – Happy had set up his tent in a stand of manuka, we made camp nearby and shared stories of the day. It had been a tough one for me – I don’t think I’ve felt so rubbish for a whole day on a bike. Sure, there are usually highs and lows – I’d certainly had lower lows, but not consistently like this. Thankfully the riding was kind and not very hilly, I’d put in a reasonable day, not blown up and in the morning would see how I felt about tackling a more remote and tougher section of the route.

Renegades Muster

Short: It’s been a while, but it’s time for another one of these rides. Dotwatching here – https://renegadesmuster2021.maprogress.com/

Long: Riding new places and the chance to see plenty of good friends, such opportunities are not to be missed while they are there. Whether I should be embarking on such a multi-day ride at the moment, I’m unsure as I learn more about what a recent haemochromatosis (iron overload) diagnosis means. I’d not previously heard of it, and I’m unaware of anyone else in my family having it, but mine is hereditary.

Excessive absorption of iron so far manifests itself in getting very tired, achy joints, abdominal aches, and just not feeling well. Thought I was just getting old. I’m hopeful that it’s been diagnosed early enough that with the simple treatment (venesection), damage to organs from iron deposits can be avoided. Therapeutic venesection (blood-giving) is initially done weekly to purge the excess iron and reduce levels suitably, and then less-frequently to keep them there. My first venesection last week went well, but completely wiped me out for the rest of the day. The second session today may not be ideal preparation for days bikepacking, but it went ok and I haven’t been as exhausted, yet…

Oddly, I feel best and most myself when active (although motivation to get out and do things is far more difficult to find with the lethargy) – so at least the first day’s riding should go ok. After that, I guess there’s only one way to find out… I suspect I’ll be even slower than normal, but as always – seeing new places by bike is the main motivation. Clearly this has been building my whole life, only just reaching the point where the effects became noticeable and a diagnosis was made – so I’m optimistic that bringing my iron level down will get me back to some sort of normal that I’ve long forgotten. Remains to be seen though.

In the meantime, there’s the opportunity to get outside on a bike with friends somewhere new – I can’t miss that.

Flat Point to Waimeha

Up with the light after a reasonably good sleep, off down the coast shortly after seven we went. The first half hour down the coastal flats (apparently uplift resulting from an earthquake some hundred-plus years ago) was notable, besides the morning views, for the large stands of cabbage trees – with plenty standing solitarily too.

Half an hour in, we reached the first farm for the day – Glenburn. The extensive number of buildings (once a 16,000 acre station, now closer to 7,000 acres) were all immaculately presented; we were impressed. After an enjoyable chat with the owners, there was much delight in poking around the old (but still in use) woolshed and stables.

Drying dags, I’m told.

Fergus checking accuracy; spot on he reckons.

Hard to fathom just how many people have worked in here over many decades shearing who knows how many sheep!

A once familiar sight, I’ve not seen a Zip like this for a while; never have I seen an apparently internet-enabled one.

Definitely the native timber look in here.

Belt driven and still in service.

Into another farm, the fourth I think – I stopped bothering to count shortly after.

Not a lot of rider colour to work with, but I like to think the scenery is the main attraction anyway.

Fergus, Andrew’s son, just playing on a rock. A casual trackstand, his lightly loaded trail bike looked a lot more fun…most of the time. This time I wasn’t the youngest!

Suddenly, the beach turned to smooth, dense white rocks for a short time. We lingered as paua were collected.

The hills closing in on the coast, the riding became noticeably less flat.

Windswept – always like to see trees growing like that, even if it can make for challenging riding (not this time).

Fascinating layers in the uplift and a sweet spot for a little bach with its own little harbour and boat ramp.

Out of Glendhu Station, we headed upstream to find the large bridge over the Pahaoa River before entering the eponymous farm. Unfortunately a large landslide had taken out part of the coastal track, so inland we headed again. For the only time on this trip, up a big climb. Topping out at three hundred metres above the sea, it was mostly very steep. There was some respite near the top as we contoured around and the views opened up.

West, looking past Rerewhakaaitu, over Martinborough and there is still snow on the Rimutakas from the previous week’s weather.

Gerard, Fergus and I scouted for a lunch spot, found this spectacular place – and then decided it was too early for lunch.

Instead we had a lot of fun dropping all our altitude in a hurry to cross the Rerewhakaaitu River a number of times.

Another push to get up onto the track seen two photos above. With our lingering, the rest of the group wasn’t too far behind – spot two of them here.

The necessity of the reroute became obvious here.

Still scouting for a lunch spot.

Found one!

Couldn’t complain about those views as we all perched on the side of the track refuelling. With such an interesting morning and so much to look at it was little wonder we’d not even managed forty kilometres in five hours. Considering the riding had not been particular difficult, just with plenty of worthy distractions, I was mindful we had over sixty kilometres to go – most of it on unknown terrain (I’d ridden the White Rock to Ngawi section a few years back, it wasn’t particularly fast – but I was pretty worn out by the Aorangi Forest Park by then). But we’d done the only hills of note, so we should be ok. Even so, I made an effort to keep setting off and hopefully we’d keep moving.

Through Te Awaiti Station, the riding on flat gravel farm track and then road was easy going and sped things up a bit. Joining public roads, we saw many Tora Coastal Walkers spread out along the edge of the road – more walkers than vehicles, that’s for sure.

Over the Awhea River bridge, I thought I had better stop and let the gap close – stopping for a snack is always a good idea too. Gerard arrived first and thought we could go a little further before waiting – no argument from me, I was happy to have riding company. Hopping another locked gate with all sorts of warning signs, we entered one of the last farm sections. The thirty-two year old wreck of the Magnet seemed as good a place as any to wait.

After a good snack and more chat, there was still no sign of the others despite regular apparitions on the rocky horizon – the Magnet demanded closer inspection. Having negotiated boggy surrounds and approached the rusting hulk, I was most surprised to see a head poke out of the small gap between hull and rocks that it had been its final resting place for decades. The teeth bared were not small and I beat a hasty retreat.

Not moving.

Quite large, these ones did disperse.

Time for a new scene, a little further along there was a good outcrop to perch on and find a different perspective. Slowly we could pick out riders afar.

Over to Cape Palliser, and the last significant off road section of the day.

Getting out of White Rock Station involved fording the Opouawe River. Most crossed where it branched into four distinct flows – all rideable, albeit hub deep.

Andrew heading for the end of White Rock Road (which for me is forever associated with fifty kilometres straight into a strong northerly) and the last farm section – Ngapotiki Station.

The locked gate at the road end was not nearly as formidable as my memory was telling me, pleasingly. The other gate had definitely been cut down in height and there was a stile – much easier to get the bike over solo. Or were my recollections of struggling to get a heavy bike over it playing tricks on me again? Straight into a short, but steep and loose, climb onto a large shingle slip – there was a bit of pushing involved.

Strung out approaching the gate of doom – no longer needs that moniker in my mind. White Rock visible across the bay. Te Kaukau Point on the right.

Quite a change, this bit too loose to ride.

Off the shingle slip was great fun, strange to see other bike tracks after the rest of the route.

Remembering my previous time along this stretch, I was not looking forward to the rough, tiring 4WD track to the lighthouse. But waiting for some company and then ripping along it with Gerard and Fergus was a blast as a mild contour, but many undulations, gave plenty of opportunity to move the bike around with enthusiasm. Plus there were numerous large puddles (small ponds?) to variously avoid or splash through with glee.

There it is. More than a speck now.

Happy with that section as it mellowed out!

Why not give the legs a different work out?

Back to gravel road.

I had it in my head that there was still thirty or so kilometres to go and rounding the cape, was expecting to turn into the strong northerly (that until this point had manifested as alternating head and tail winds as we approached and left each valley reaching the coast). I was hopeful that the food caravan of vague memory five kilometres up the road in Ngawi would be open to fuel what I was sure would be a struggle.

Sure enough, straight into a block headwind was pure toil and I wondered how we’d ever get to Lake Ferry before dark. Delight to find not one, but two caravans open. A big feed of fish, chips, milkshake and ice cream gave a chance to get out of the wind for a bit. By that time, Andrew arrived and corrected my misjudgement – we only had a few kilometres more to struggle into the wind before arriving at Waimeha Camping Village.

What a great day of seeing plenty of special sights that I wouldn’t have thought I’d ever get access to. The riding and views were well varied and always interesting. There were some pretty tired-looking people at the dinner table as large and tasty meals were devoured over tales of the day.

The wind didn’t let up overnight and with the forecast for gusts up to 120 kilometres per hour and rain, the plan to ride around Pencarrow Head, boat across Wellington Harbour (likely not to sail in such conditions) and train back to Masterton was abandoned. I wasn’t too disappointed, despite it being spectacular – on a good day – as I’d ridden that section six or so years before. Just as well plans were revised, as the thirty kilometres to the start of Cape Palliser Road straight into the wind was slow and sapping. Always memorable having to pedal down steep hills.

At least turning north-east to Martinborough took the gale off the nose a bit, even so it took me three hours and twenty minutes to grind out the sixty kilometres. Most unusually for me, I didn’t stop once – conditions were so inhospitable that I saw no point in it. At least I have a previous trip to remind me what it looks like on a kinder day. Over a long lunch at a local cafe everyone gradually arrived, concluding an excellent trip exploring the southern reaches of the North Island’s east coast – much to see, and we were fortunate to do so. Thanks Andrew!