Category Archives: bikes

Six Corners Challenge – The Western Half

The framework of the Six Corners Challenge is different to any other bikepacking event I’ve ever done and is what finally drew me to the north west and upper west of the South Island on my bike. Instead of following a set route as quickly as one could, riders were to visit the so-called Six Corners of Golden Bay in any order they chose over the thirty-six hours of the weekend – as quickly as they could. The west is very flat, while the east is very hilly. I planned to ride the hills on the Saturday and explore the west on Sunday.

Weather was in the headlines beforehand with the claim of a soon approaching storm with the biggest measured pressure differential between the north and the south of our small country. Clearly that meant wind, and a lot of it – I revised my ideas and decided to head to the exposed western part of the course first.

Arriving at quarter to six, I was starting to get concerned I’d not correctly found the village square.

Gradually other riders congregated, all new faces to me, some with familiar names. I lost count at about twenty, I think there were twenty-five – the largest turn-out yet, despite the deteriorating forecast. After a quick briefing we were off, the field splitting east and west.

A lot of seal first, the riding was easy as the sun rose. With little traffic it was pleasant enough to chat away as people came and went. A few were from Wellington, but most the upper South Island – I think I’d travelled the furthest. Having ditched half of my touring kit, I quickly found I was both over-biked for the easy terrain and carrying a little too much. Oh well, the weather was likely to turn and I still had two weeks of touring on this bike when it would not be enough of a mountain bike; a good compromise though, I thought – even if a gravel bike looked ideal for the Six Corners course.

Past Collingwood, I was tiring of the flat seal – why weren’t we going up that bulldozer track?

Certainly wasn’t any wind about yet!

I lagged behind a little, heading to Cape Farewell seemed logical to me – something about getting the top of the South Island for my first corner.

Huzzah, some gravel and a little climbing.

As I neared the end of the road, there weren’t many people coming back – most had chosen instead to turn west and head down the coast first.

Surprisingly still here, I enjoyed the ride back chatting to a local about his experiences televising big international cricket matches.

Turning west I lost my riding buddy as he went to Brown Hut; over a small hill the road turned to gravel and skirted around the surprisingly large Whanganui Inlet on a series of seventeen causeways. The clouds were scurrying through and rain threatened for some time.

Stopping here was a cue for the heavens to open for ten minutes.

By the time I got up here, the rain gear had to go.

The Tasman Sea is just behind those hills, as my route continued left.

Bridging from the inlet to the coast past farmland (I guess the only reason the road is there?), riders returning from the Anatori River corner began to appear. The ten kilometre section to the river paralleling the coast had more than enough little pinch climbs to keep the legs honest.

That’s Corner Two, just out of shot a rather makeshift campground filled with hunting, fishing and whitebaiting types.

Retracing my tyre tracks was not as unpleasant as it might have been – it gave an opportunity to see somewhere I’d, until very recently, never been from a different angle.

A most excellent late-lunch and large pot of tea at the Old School set me up to ride south to Brown Hut, at the northern end of the Heaphy Track. It was still incredibly windless and the riding was still easy going – I was enjoying looking around, even if by then I’d lost all company.

This place wasn’t open late on a Saturday afternoon, more’s the pity.

Hitting the gravel for the last stretch to the hut, a short flurry of riders appeared – I was only ninety-odd minutes behind. What had I been doing all day? Slow because I’m looking around too much or looking around so much because I’m slow? Whatever, it had been a good day out and I was pleased to take the required photo at another corner.

The last day of standard time for the year, the sky simultaneously darkened with the sun setting (not that I could see it) and the clouds thickening. With forty easy kilometres to go back to Takaka, the rain started. Before long I was in all my rain gear and the heavens opened. Fortunately it was not cold or too windy, as it was a downpour all the way back. Any downhills had to be taken carefully lest the rain strip some skin off my face; the few vehicles there were gave me a wide berth, either out of pity or trying to avoid the crazy person on a bike.

Back in town to find all the kitchens shut, I was a walking puddle attempting to find some food. A large bowl of shoestring fries failed to appease my hunger, but the cup of tea was most welcome. With the storm having now arrived, I wasn’t going to see much so returned to my cabin, opted for a warm shower and snuggled into bed. It had been a while since I’d ridden so far, I was pleased to have seen many new places, that the weather was mostly good and I still had legs to keep riding. A long, flat and mostly sealed ride not exactly my forte or favourite, but hey ho – plenty more to come on this trip. The other corners could wait, it helped that I’d already seen one of them on my ride over Takaka Hill the previous day.

Getting to Takaka

To my surprise, my bike was assembled from its travel bag and I was ready to leave Nelson by half-eight Friday morning. I was well excited to be going on my first solo tour of more than a few days for over six years. A small bikepacking event over the weekend was drawing me finally to Golden Bay, and after that I was looking forward to a couple of weeks on the West Coast riding some of the long backcountry trails that the area is blessed with.

First, to Takaka; with a whole day, biking there was the logical choice – even with Takaka Hill in the way. Much easier than organising a bus anyway. Flat cycle trail took me out of town, skirting the estuary and past a large sawmill. I missed the reopening of the Mapua ferry by a day, so was left to find the quietest route west on the fly. The backroad to Motueka wasn’t that desolate, but it wasn’t a highway.

After a few spits of rain, the day cleared nicely.

Hitting Motueka for an early lunch, I made sure to fuel up for the 900 metre climb. I didn’t get far into it and found a complimentary/compulsory shuttle through a lot of roadworks, so that cut out a couple of hundred metres of climbing – which I was both pleased and disappointed by.

Almost at the top of the road, a short side trip for the view.

Yup, the hills certainly climb away from the coast very quickly.

Near the summit of the main road, I turned off north and continued to climb before eventually dropping to Canaan Downs. So many rocks everywhere in the paddocks, and a little native bush to ride through. It looked a sweet place to camp as the downs opened up, and I found a cheeky bit of singletrack to ride, confusing the sheep and avoiding orienteer scouts, before the Rameka Track started.

A very old track, as far as NZ European history goes, that’s been revitalised – it was great to work my way down to sea level. A loaded rigid bikepacking bike may not the best stead for it, but I was thrilled with the descent through the bush. Occasionally the views opened up, but I was having too much fun to stop much.

Before long I’d lost all the altitude and was rolling into my Airbnb on the outskirts of town; a top day getting to Takaka and moving the legs a little before the weekend’s challenge.

Whirinaki weekend

For the third time in a year, a most excellent stay at the Rec. Camp in Whirinaki Forest Park. This time, a more relaxed visit introducing friends to the superb example of native North Island podocarp forest – teeming with birdlife too. Bike trips have brought me here before, but this time I packed not only bike shoes (and a bike), but walking shoes, hiking boots and running shoes. Pleasingly, all were used.

Home for the weekend.

Unexpectedly cold when we arrived Friday night, fireplaces in the cabins sure helped on a brilliantly clear and starry night. It clouded overnight, so more mild waking Saturday; after an early breakfast I wandered down to check out the Whirinaki River just below camp. I was thrilled to hear a vocal pair of whio, and more so to see them. Also known as blue duck, these are a threatened species (far rarer than kiwi, for instance) that live in fast flowing rivers and streams.


How they manage to find and feed on small invertebrates in such quick water still amazes me.

The short loop on the Whirinaki mountain bike track was under the canopy of towering giants, and the downhill on a rough and ready, rutted track was the most fun I’ve had on a mountain bike in a long time. It was a nice change to let go and know that the bike would soak up all but the biggest hits – rather different to a loaded, fully-rigid bikepacking rig!

The rest of the weekend was spent on foot, walking to waterfalls, the ephemeral Arohaki Lagoon and running back, gazing in wonder up at the mind-blowingly numerous giants of the forest, listening to the birdlife and most of all learning more about it all. So good to take people knowledgeable about such things along – the enthusiasm was infectious, hopefully some of the knowledge was too.

Wheki-ponga may have been the word of the weekend.

Kahikatea line the lagoon on a misty Sunday morning.

Some marshmallows may have been harmed in the making of s’mores.

North and south family visits

With a big bikepacking trip cancelled, a pandemic did at least leave me with masses of annual leave and substantial flight credit. Internal travel restrictions eased, it was high-time to pop down and see family in Central Otago. For mid-winter, it wasn’t as cold as one would expect in Naseby and we managed plenty of time outside.

Flying into Dunedin, Naseby nestled over yonder in front of the Ida Range.

First up, a walk around Sutton Salt Lake – NZ’s only inland salt lake apparently. A pleasant little walk around the geographical curiosity.

The Rock and Pillars completely devoid of snow – glad I didn’t bother to bring my skis down.

Plenty of rocks to negotiate; smoke from a burn-off drifting lazily down the Taieri Valley.

For a change, I’d not travelled with a bike and hadn’t really planned on doing any riding. James had other ideas…
Forgoing a bike my size due to lack of front brakes, I tried to remember how to mountain-bike on a bike two sizes too large and in shoes too small. I ended up riding it on five consecutive days, much fun was had – especially when a pedal became near impossible to unclip from.

Naseby Forest.

Adele didn’t have to expend much effort in getting me to join her on a rogaine. She was looking well forward to her first athletic event after over a year of baby-related layoff. We realised it was the first event we’ve ever done together – All Pheasant and Correct turned up, ran a little, got slightly lost, walked a lot, and found as many checkpoints as we could in the three allotted hours. Much fun traipsing over the hills just out of Alexandra – even if the singletrack had me wishing for a bike, and the briar roses and matagouri thorns tore us to shreds. Impressive to see so many families and children out running around every which way

The Clutha flowing through Alexandra.

Such an unusual landscape for NZ; all those trails…

Already further west in Central, it was a good opportunity to meet online friends, catch up with old friends and stay with family in Wanaka.

We may have snuck in a Sticky Forest ride too. Superb; not much snow over here either.

The rest of the time in Naseby was spent riding, walking around, discussing house-build plans, short doses of nephew-entertaining/minding and working on depleting the gin stock. All too soon twas time to return north.

But one week later, Mum visited for a week (a trip planned pre-lockdown). Conveniently, many of us were sent to work from home for three days – so that was timed well. Such a visit deserved another long weekend; I was keen to show off Mahia Peninsula, so that way we headed for a few days of walking, gravel roads and even a little caving.

Couldn’t believe I was up here without a bike!

The peninsula’s scenic reserve has a great technical walk through thick native bush. With plenty of stream crossings, we managed to keep our feet dry – just, and generally avoid the mud.

We explored to the end of Kinikini Rd, if only I could find a link through to make a loop…

Another place to add to the list of where one might find horses freely roaming the roads.

Sunday was time to take in another favourite gravel road before checking out the short walk behind Morere Hot Springs – things one doesn’t do while bikepacking. Well worth a visit if you’re going past.

Tunanui Rd is still fantastic.

The grove of nikau palms is startlingly large – I was quite taken aback.

Monday was for retracing part of a scouting ride from last year – I thought Mum would like the cave I’ve not heard anyone else mention, but I think is pretty neat hidden away in a paddock at the top of a sizeable hill.

There’s a steep climb up through some limestone bluffs to begin with.

We enjoyed scampering around Mangaone Cave for a short time.

There ended a fun little weekend away around Mahia with Mum. After what is now an unusual flurry of travel, some normalcy is returning to life as attention turns to sorting HBAT details – as that pandemic allows.