I must have been to close to some water, as there were enough mosquitos buzzing around through the warm night to keep me from deep sleep. Still, the main road was quiet and, despite the broken sleep, I felt good setting off before six o’clock. A warm-up and a few little hills later and I was crossing the river into Ruatoria for breakfast.

Early morning over the Waiapu.

The pub had seen better days.

A couple of stores opened at seven, so that was worth waiting for. The Ruatoria pies, even more so; so started a cruisy day of riding between food stops and more outstanding bays. This East Coast road is notorious among touring cyclists for logging trucks – but thanks to the coronavirus and the region’s log exports grinding to a sudden halt, I didn’t see a single one on the road.

With a norwester blowing, there was a gently helping hand as I tackled only the occasional climb – much of the day being pretty flat and easy. There were plenty of hills to be seen, but the region being so refreshingly undeveloped there are few roads to explore those hills. It was an easy first half of the commute home; after the previous week, that sat just fine with me.

Enjoying a Coastie Toastie at Tokomaru Bay.

Following a big lunch at Tolaga Bay, there were finally some more wee hills to summit before joining a lot of holiday and beach traffic into Gisborne.

Can’t imagine why people find this place appealing for a relaxed holiday.

Seeing the coast stretch to the Mahia Peninsula, I again chastised myself for taking four and a half years to get up here. I just keep finding more places to explore close to home. It was nice to get off the road for the first time that day on a cycle path into Gisborne. As it took me so long to get there, perhaps I should have had a better look around – but an early dinner called before heading west out of town.

Late in the afternoon, the wind had got up and was really whipping across the plains – that twenty kilometres with increased traffic was tough. On the quieter road to Tiniroto, I started to climb. The first real one of the day was another Gentle Annie – mercifully smaller than the one on the first day of the trip. Steepening, I spied a lot of blackberries on the side of the road – those could not be easily passed and provided a little boost to get up and over to Waerengaokuri

Gisborne just visible on the coast.

Long since closed.

Way back when I was looking for a good way to get home from East Cape and I spied what looked like a gravel alternative to a section of the sealed Tiniroto Rd that I’d ridden a couple of times before. I was eager to check it out, my only concerns were that I might drop a lot of altitude and have to grovel back up to Tiniroto, or worse yet – the road might not go through for some reason.

Always pleasing to see decades old sign styles surviving.

That was far from the case, it began to climb straight away and was interestingly steep in parts. Absolutely deserted in the early evening, every couple of kilometres I’d be surprised to see a house. Short stretches of seal indicated it was a bit steeper, but mostly it was good gravel. Soon after the turn off I was following the ridge line up, so there were views in both directions.

These got better as dusk approached. I thought the climbing was done for a while at six hundred metres elevation, but after a steep descent it wound its way back up again. The road was challenging in parts, but my – with the views, solitude and challenge at the end of a long day of sealed road – it was one of the standouts of the entire trip. I loved it and am very much looking forward to riding it again this weekend, only three weeks later. I shouldn’t go on, so here’s a few of the photos I took over the two hours and twenty-five kilometres.

Looking west, wondering what it’ll be like when the sun drops a little lower.

Getting some idea as the sun dips; looking north.

Breath taken from me looking towards Waikaremoana, marvelling at all the folds in the hills.

Sometimes it’s a bit easier to imagine where the gravel might go next.

Whakapunake.

My evening companion for the week made another sudden appearance. About this time, I also saw a vehicle and shortly after, a wild boar – both I was surprised to see.

Back on Tiniroto Rd, it was time to drop down to the settlement and see if the pub was still open. Buzzing from such a fantastic find, a little climb hardly dampened my spirits as the sun finally set on the eighth day of my little tour. The last few hours made it one of the more memorable for a while; that the pub and its kitchen were still open were an unexpected bonus as the fifth meal of the day was savoured before laying my head for the night in the community hall.

The ditch provided an excellent night’s sleep and it was still warm as we rolled down to the highway.

Crossing the Motu first up.

I must explore more of this river, it takes such a winding route from the headwaters I’ve ridden past a few times now.

A very pleasant morning of riding to the eastern end of the Bay of Plenty – plenty of cracking views, little traffic, little hills and big food stops at Te Kaha and Waihau Bay.

The road has been sealed for decades, which to me doesn’t stack up with the Forgotten World Highway – but I guess it was easier, so the riding surface was straightforward and not particularly interesting. But the day and the sights were more than engaging enough. Cutting across the top of the east of the North Island, we lost the sea views and gained a swirling, strong wind. Also, there were a few more hills – but nothing much compared to the central part of the island.

Climbing above Hicks Bay did bring the views back again.

Towards Te Araroa; the end of the traverse, East Cape, off to the left of shot.

The toughest wind of the entire trip was saved for the twenty kilometres of road that goes out to the cape. With the second half poorly maintained gravel, it was an hour and a half of toil. But an period of toil that we knew would reward us with a big tail wind on the way back.

Reaching the end of the ride, we had but 800 steps to climb to get to the lighthouse and complete our trip from Cape to Cape. Comfortably sneaking in under our goal of four days, what a great route it was and how amazing the weather had been. Hardly a drop of rain, warm but not hot temperatures, kind winds, plenty of food and good company sure did make it more of a holiday than 200 km/day of bikepacking during the hottest week of the summer (back home) would suggest.

The lighthouse does have a top and light to it, but unimportant detail.

Looking south from East Cape.

Blown back to Te Araroa in much less than an hour, the gravel wasn’t nearly as bad. The local cafe was still open, though they seemed less than pleased about it – never mind, eventually we were well fed. I bid Pete farewell as he headed back to Rotorua and I began a two day ride home.

With a full stomach, it was straight into the largest climbs of the day as the evening got very dark all of a sudden. The rain never came, and it was more great riding on a quiet road as the day drew to an end.

Wasn’t quite needing this by that stage.

Up and over the biggest hill of the day (a whopping two hundred metres, it really was an easy day of climbing) and down to Tikitiki (Tauranga; golly, that’s an old advert) I started looking for somewhere to bivy. Although not with too much enthusiasm as the more I could ride that evening, the sooner I’d get home. Most of an hour later, I was settling down for the night in a forest – pleased with the Bay of Plenty sights and what was a pretty easy and flat final day (headwind for last part excepted) of Pete’s excellent and well-varied North Island traverse.

The sun was just up by the time we got away from a bivy spot that proved very conducive to sleep. All morning was spent on roads and trail I was familiar with from many past rides – in more recent years the Geyserland Gravel Grinds, and further back my first bike tours when I was fourteen and fifteen years old.

Highlights were some nice early morning gravel, quiet roads, ascending Waikite hill for the first time since I was a teenager (and finding my climbing legs), a big refuel at the excellent Benny Bee cafe, discovering the short section of trail around the base of Rainbow Mountain is better in this direction (SW to NE), clear views of Mt Tarawera, the one-lane bridge at Rerewhakaaitu is finally open again and losing all our altitude to sea level – easy riding with another kind wind.

Down on the coastal plains, the public holiday traffic was tolerable; the big resupply and ice cream at Awakeri, more than tolerable. It was definitely warmer down at low elevation, we had another refuel at Taneatua as there was some decent climbing coming up. Half an hour up on rough gravel through forest certainly had us sweating – there were numerous pauses in the shade, and helping some people who were rather hopelessly lost. Back to Ohiwa Harbour-level, Pete had found a way to shorten our time on the highway to Opotiki.

Through farmland and orchards, on a real mixture of connecting roads (some sealed, some fast gravel, some very slow gravel) – this way was far slower, but pretty much deserted, compared to the highway option.

Our arrival in town coincided nicely with dinner hours, we found a great spot where we could wheel our bikes around the back to the outdoor eating area – I promptly tucked into a large meal, one of the better of the trip. Resupply done, it was off for three hours of evening riding which would be one of the stand-outs of the entire NITT.

Other bikepacking trips through the area had not afforded me the opportunity to ride the short Dunes Trail that parallels the beach east out of town. Finally I had the chance; a balmy evening with the sun setting and wind behind us was just the ticket.

The waxing moon, as it was for the week I was away, made its appearance for the night.

Looking around the eastern reaches of the Bay of Plenty – that evening’s and the following day’s riding.

Not a bad evening to be out for a ride at all.

Onto the quiet highway after the trail ended, a glorious evening darkened into a spectacular night for riding – one of the best I’ve had. Still, warm, the sun slowly setting allowed the moon to brighten and reflect off the Pacific stretching in front of us.

Mostly dead flat, there were a couple of lumps until a decent two hundred metre climb – approaching ten o’clock and still in short sleeves we were. As much I was enjoying the night ride, as the light faded I was wondering what sights I was missing – we started looking for a bivy site. None forthcoming, we dove off the road up a forestry road. When I say “up”, it was fifteen minutes of pushing up a steep hill before we found a spot remotely flat to camp. A few minutes later, I’d decided the dug out bit to the side looked the most level, smoothest and least rocky part of the clearing; that is how we both came to tick off that bikepacking badge of “sleeping in a ditch”. On such a warm and clear night, it was a fantastic place to sleep.

Now into the fourth day of our traverse, we’d had another excellent one – not nearly as hilly or slow as the previous two – and were confident we’d knock this off within the planned four days. I might just make it back to work on time…

A leisurely start to the day with twenty-five kilometres of quiet backroads, with only the slightest of inclines as we followed the Ongarue River upstream and turned off to begin the Timber Trail.

There’s that railway again, for the last time on this trip.

Both Pete and I were looking forward to riding the Timber Trail in the reverse, south to north, direction to that which is normal. With a gentle southerly behind us, it didn’t disappoint. One of the reasons I prefer riding it in this direction is that the part of the trail that is in the worst condition (up to the Ongarue Spiral) is over and done with straightaway and one can forget about how poorly maintained and uninspiring that section is; going the other direction, it’s such a disappointment to finish an otherwise great day on.

Suspension bridges galore still delight – such vast gaps in terrain they bridge, with the native bush-clad valleys so far below. With both of us having ridden this trail plenty of times, photos are few and far between. One of the highlights was stopping in and checking out the new Camp Epic – and not just because the kettle was on and we got tea and coffee. All the tents spread around the big clearing and campfire, over a dozen, form part of quite the facility (cooking shelter, toilet and shower block, and plenty of room to pitch your own tent) – a worthy addition to the limited facilities on the trail. As always, maybe one day I’ll ride the trail more slowly and, therefore, get to stay here. I commented that the tents, not so much the surroundings, reminded me of being on safari – turns out all the tents were imported from South Africa, so that explains that.

Trail traffic increased later in the afternoon, as we came across a few bikepackers and many that were riding the trail over two days – either stopping at the lodge or Camp Epic. The views from the high point on Pureora over to Lake Taupo were some of the clearest we’ve both seen – often it’s either dark or clagged in when I’ve been up there. From there, the chief reason that I prefer the direction we were heading – a stonking great ten kilometre downhill to finish. Riding the last few kilometres, after it’s flattened out a bit, through pristine native bush, having to pedal a bit but able to hold a lot of speed, is my favourite piece of semi-technical mountain-biking on the trail; such fun to finish.

While that was a lot of the day’s climbing done, it was far warmer down a few hundred metres lower and out from underneath the canopy. As Pete educated me a bit more about the timing of when this forest was saved from logging and when various hiking trails were formed and huts built, we climbed up to the amusing “Centre of the North Island” (a piece of cardboard!). The notorious Arataki Swing Bridge had passed its load test a day or two before, so we didn’t have to take a large detour. Instead it was back past the place where I was overcome with heat stroke symptoms three months before, I’m unsure how I’d managed to climb up and get to Pureora – it sure was a long downhill to get to the spot.

Surviving the bridge, I only managed to jam my thumb between my handlebars and an upright once, there was a little pushing up to the road end before a quick sealed, descent to Whakamaru for fish, burgers, milkshakes, ice cream and resupply. While it hadn’t been a big day for distance, such a long trail can take it out of you. We planned to ride what I consider to be one of the easiest and most pleasant sections of the Waikato River Trails for twenty-five kilometres to a short stretch on State Highway One before finding somewhere to bivy overnight.

A glorious evening, the mighty Waikato was becalmed. Although I’d only ridden this section once, and enjoyed it so, and knew there was little elevation gain to be had – I’d long ago learnt that one underestimates this collection of trails at your own peril, especially on a loaded bike at the end of a long day. So it was, the tiny pinch climbs kept coming – hitting us one after the other for much of the first half of the section. But it was such a stunning evening, it could hardly have gotten to us. Things flattened out around some fields and we could hold some speed, eventually popping out on the highway a little after nine o’clock.

The end of the trail would come close to Pohaturoa, which was just over the river from the trailhead.

With Waitangi Day the following day, a Thursday, I was expecting the highway to be busy with traffic heading south from Auckland for a four-day weekend. It really wasn’t that bad, the four kilometres having ample shoulder. Ten more minutes and we’d dropped down to the river, crossed the Ohakuri Dam and found a very quiet and sheltered spot to camp the night. A shorter day for distance, there was much riding in that 173 km – over a hundred of them were trail; another pleasing day, we figured we’d completed the difficult half of our North Island Traverse and were well on schedule to finish within four days.