Category Archives: GPS

bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Thomsons Gorge to ride Lake Dunstan Trail finally

2 Comments

Somehow involved in the planning for a group to ride the GSB21 route (mosty), it seemed rude not to make an appearance as I was in the area. An addition to the route was the new Lake Dunstan Trail – which I’d not managed to ride in the six months since it had opened – so that was the obvious part to tag along on. The Knobby Range shortly after was my favourite part of GSB21, I’d ride that too and then rush back to next venesection.

Rail trail to the end would have been too monotonous, so after a nice fifty kilometre warm-up in cool summer conditions, and a big first-lunch in Omakau, I struck north for Thomsons Gorge.

Out of Oturehua on the Otago Central Rail Trail.

Having remembered the wind and heat of previous rides through here, I was unsure how I’d do in my current lower-fitness state. Especially up the steep first pitch – I thought there would be some walking involved. There began a curious internal monologue as the climbing began – one voice telling me that I was ill, walked last time and would be walking soon; the other voice just getting me to pedal a little bit further. Before I knew it, the steep section was completed – on the bike (except for opening and closing some of the twenty-two gates).

Starting the climb, over the Manuherikia Valley to the Raggedy Range.

I love riding through this gorge for the challenge (usually in the form of crazy wind, and not insubstantial heat) and the views. This day was the most benign I’d ever had the conditions – not that hot, patchy sun, occasional cloud cover and not a breath of wind. It made a nice change from being blown off my bike, which is more usual.

For once I had the time and inclination to make the small detour and check out this wee old hut. A pleasant spot for second-lunch.

Thomsons Saddle.

Headwaters of Thomsons Creek, the stone hut just around the corner.

One day, hopefully soon, I’ll go up there. Now I’m in the area, there are many little side trips to be found and explored.

Knowing I’d be well early to the Cromwell rendezvous, I took the opportunity to check out some of the mining relics. All those times I’d ridden down that hill and I had no idea there was a sizeable mineshaft stretching under the road – I didn’t have to stoop that much as it went deeper into the hillside.

The restored Come In Time Battery.

Over the Lindis River.

An easy twenty-odd kilometres into Cromwell along the highway was not too unpleasant with traffic only of the holiday and multi-sport varieties, nothing heavy – makes a nice change from logging trucks. Hours early, I rode around the outskirts, popped out to Bannockburn and had first-dinner waiting for the group to arrive. Their arrival prompted many stories of the trail, and second-dinner.

A big breakfast done and it was a leisurely start after seven the next day. Cutting across to the road out to Bannockburn, soon over the Kawarau arm of Lake Dunstan and onto trail new to me. It’s an easy trail, and would be fast – but for its popularity. Even at that time of the morning, there were plenty of people out enjoying it. The engineering along the edge where the Cairnmuirs now suddenly drop into the hydroelectric lake is an incredible feat on an excellent trail that links Clyde and Cromwell without using the highway or the big, steep Hawksburn Road climb. The platforms bolted on to and cantilevered out from the cliff edge are most notable, but there are sizeable bridges too.

Heading to Cornish Point.

There’s the occasional climb, but nothing significant on a loaded bike.

Most memorable event of the trail was courtesy of a large merino ram. Thankfully we came across it while on a moderate downhill. Four of us got past it chased, but unscathed. Tom, however, stopped further up the trail to watch the happenings. The territorial ram noticed and trotted up the track. His bike between him and the ram, repeated charges and bunting were not completely avoided. If it wasn’t so comical, we may have been more concerned. With no bears, moose, snakes, and cougars I guess we have to make do with temperamental rams. Mirth contained enough, I eventually ventured back up the trail a bit to try and provide enough distraction for Tom to get on his bike. My help was not needed as he finally got away unscathed – physically at least, time will tell about mental scars. Unfortunately the front wheel and brake disc were not so lucky, requiring some attention at the next bike shop.

As well as the scenery, which was probably not helped by the gloomy day, I enjoyed having the time to read all the signs detailing history and engineering in the area.

Out at the Clyde Rowing Club, I was most surprised when one of runners we chatted to ended up being Steve, a guy I happened to ride most of the last day of my Tour Aotearoa with six years earlier! I always wondered what happened to him after he rode off into the crazy headwind that left me struggling for eighty minutes to move eight kilometres alongside a flat highway. Curiosity satisfied.

That was a fun ride, I look forward to doing it again in clearer weather and maybe off-season (if it has one). The day warmed as we rode the twelve or so shaded kilometres into Alexandra. I found a burst of energy and didn’t stop until the end – there having to wait quite some time before rolling into town for a large early lunch, and for Tom to get his wheel fixed. Somewhere along the way, others had had enough of hills and quit on the Knobby Range plan – opting for Clutha Gold and a ridiculously expensive jet boat ride instead. Ditching the best bit of the GSB course for a disjointed, low trail held no appeal, especially when it’d be even more of an effort to make my venesection appointment on time – I said my goodbyes and cruised the ninety kilometres back home on the rail trail.

Saying goodbyes.

Actually stopping to read the interesting displays at Lauder.

Nice to get out and stretch the legs for a couple of days, ride a new trail, enjoy the company of other riders and take a bit more time absorbing some of the history of the area.

bikepacking, bikes, friends, GPS, NZ

Wairoa, Ohuka loop with long awaited dead-ends

2 Comments

Getting back to northern Hawke’s Bay for one last weekend of bikepacking seemed a fitting farewell to this region I’ve been fortunate to call home for six years. It also gave the opportunity to add a couple of long dead-end roads that I’ve long been curious about, but never quite got to explore, to an already hilly 175 km loop of previously seen roads. This time there was all weekend available, across two days there was a bit more slack in the plan for any interesting diversions. Also fittingly, the only person I could convince that this potentially-mad route was worth setting out on was Pete – who’s made the most appearances in my more ambitious rides around the central North Island (notably both HBATs, HBOP, his excellent Cape to Cape (half of my double North Island traverse), and his Megas).

Catching up while watching the clear lunar eclipse, our bikes were ready for the leisurely start the next morning – straight to the bakery. Out of town on quiet highway, we were soon on Cricklewood Road. A favourite of mine, it seems to be a bit more infamous with others who have struck it at the end of a long, hot day of hills. From the top, it’s easy to see the sea thirty-odd kilometres distant and 500 metres below and think it’s all downhill – it’s really not! This was my first time climbing it and in the cool of a spring morning, it was very pleasant – almost as good as the other direction. The views soon opened up and already I was enjoying being back here and picking out various ranges in the distance, even Cape Kidnappers, and recalling other rides.

Remarkably green for this time of year.

Snaking up the ridge.

Mid-morning now, the first climb done; following a snack we hit Putere Road and descended towards the Waiau.

Catches my eye every time I pass.

Instead of continuing all the way down to the river, we set off on the first dead-end. Getting to the end of Putere Road would provided two significant climbs and a descent before finally dropping to the river further upstream – before turning around and doing it all in reverse. What we’d find along the way would soon be revealed.

First, a well-kept country school – water, shade, bathrooms and a very tempting pool.

Partway up the first climb, Pukakaramea keeps an eye on Rotongaio.

Many of the hillsides had been logged since I’d last looked upon the area from afar – this really opened up the views.

Logging still ongoing – I’ve never seen a tidier skid site!

Grovelling back up to crest before the long drop to the river, we could just hear forestry machinery making even slower progress toward us. We paused in the shade to see what it was and let it pass.

Good thing too, that claw was big – it swung a bit closer than I would have liked as it turned off along the ridge.

Panekiri Range on the right, I enjoyed seeing it again – this time from yet another angle. Off towards Huiarau Range in the distance, out Whirinaki Forest Park way. The road drops towards that pasture centre-frame.

A long, winding, gentle, freewheeling descent ensued. I was briefly fascinated watching logging operations in progress. Six years working for a forest products company and this was the most I’d ever seen of such things.

Spot the log moving up the hill.

End of the road, with this mostly amusing, slightly threatening sign.

Turning for the long climb back up, I dunked my hat in a stream as it was getting hot – I’d repeat this twice more at culverts on this stretch alone. A steady climb, it was not too bad; the second one steeper, it required a rest or two in the shade. Only seventy kilometres in, we’d already managed a couple of thousand metres of climbing – this did not bode well as the mercury climbed.

Rotongaio again, before dropping to the shade and water of the school once more.

The steep and big drop down Stairway to Heaven soon had us over the Waiau and inspecting the domain and hall for future reference. Neither of us had taken the Ruapapa-Otoi Rd option to where it connects to Waireka Rd. We found it much steeper and less pleasant going – there was much walking as it was well hot now. It wouldn’t have taken too much persuasion to get me to carry on down Ruapapa Rd – but that’s far less interesting (i.e. less hilly). An exercise in putting one foot in front of the other…

More hills and a different aspect of Panekiri.

Some pleasant ridge riding before dropping again as we got close to the range and then turned east to edge away from it. More walking and finding streams to cool off, the shack we bivied in early-2020 appeared far sooner than I expected – this was a good sign, as it was starting to look to me that this would be a very long day. The sealed climb to Ohuka being about the same again as the biggest we’d already done, it was very much in my mind. Resting in the shade at shearers’ quarters, we were really getting through our food – at least there were plenty of places to get water. The deep gravel, hills and heat were still taking it out of us.

Lake Rd, the main thoroughfare in the area, is not much better, some horrendous corrugations – but they didn’t last long. At least the road up and over to Ohuka is sealed – but that’s because it is so very steep. Still we rested in the shade, craving salt we finished the big bag of chips I’d somehow managed to squeeze/squash/crush into my feed bag and started the early-evening walk. I think we both had music blaring from our phones to get up that hill – a sign extra motivation was needed.

Panekiri Bluff now into view.

Spot the winding road going up the other side – at least that could be left to the following morning and fresh legs.

At last, the long descent to the school and the hunt for the key. I was relieved to find it – a kitchen was most welcome, as was the sick-bay bed; I’d lugged a sleeping bag and mattress all day for nothing, oh well – better to have it and not need it…

Nice surrounds for a school.

Another cracker day dawned, we eventually departed the excellent overnight facilities before seven and went straight into the biggest climb of the day. This gravel was kinder, the morning still cool and with rested legs the hour to the top was most pleasant.

Easy Sunday morning by this stage.

Before long we’d dropped a few hundred metres to cross the Ruakituri River at Erepeti; I was surprised at just how much of a river it is – where was all this water coming from? Apparently the largest catchment in the Ureweras, who knew? Our next dead-end would take us up the valley twenty kilometres to see a bit of that.

Back down to where we crossed the Ruakituri.

This quickly became the highlight of the weekend – what a valley! Climbing through a reserve as the valley narrowed into a gorge, the outlook across the river was spectacular before the road dropped through farmland to the valley floor. With the river rushing (renowned trout fishing we were told) through, fine examples of layering on a lot of continental uplift were readily apparent. Plenty of cliff features to catch our attention. The gravel was kinder again – graders and new metal don’t make it up here often.

At the entrance to Papuni Station we found a few graves dating from the NZ Wars – a skirmish between the constabulary and Te Kooti, this being not far as the crow flies from where he landed after escaping from the Chathams. Papuni looked very prosperous, we stopped for a yarn with a few of the workers, maybe a manager – I don’t think they see many cyclists. It was great to hear a bit more about the area and some of the tracks around – pity I’m moving away, there are definitely more opportunities to be investigated.

Behind the houses, a nice climb up to the woolshed, a boulder field and a lot of horses before dropping to the river. The headwind while descending was noticeable, but one could not complain – soon we would turn with it at our backs.

The gravel stopped at the base of the hill in the background.

Resting at the road-end, what food still remaining was depleted further as we speculated where one could get to from there. A DOC map board was much neglected and unreadable, shame. Back up the hill we went, eventually pushed up the last of the hill as the wind swirled around the valley.

Back down the valley past the Papuni buildings.

Enjoying the ride out of the valley, the hills were far easier than Saturday’s and, once we’d reclaimed our seat packs stashed in some willows, we hit the seal for the fifty clicks back to town. A wee bit of climbing, and one big hill after joining the Tiniroto Rd it was for the most part heading down to the coast with a helpful wind. Warm though, an ice cream at the store in Frasertown was the first priority – thankfully I got there right on closing. From there, a short sprint back to Wairoa to finish a fine weekend, and indeed, some years of exploring Hawke’s Bay back roads and hills.

The second day easily being the reward for a tough Saturday – all worth it, upper Ruakituri Valley was a cracker and I wonder when I’ll be able to get back and explore some more. Might have to be sooner than I previously thought.

bikepacking, bikes, event, friends, GPS, NZ

Renegades Muster 2021 – Day 5 – Patea to Whanganui

3 Comments

Leaving the barn, we were soon in and out of Patea. At that time of the morning, little was open but we had been carrying sufficient supplies. Earlier in the trip I’d made sure I ate the food I was carrying between towns, rather than eating it as I bought more in towns. That worked well, but for this last 150 kilometres there were to be few shops – so it was just as well we had stashed a fair bit.

Pleasant morning riding through southern Taranaki dairy farms was interspersed with only short sections on the highway. I can’t say the scenery does too much for me around here, but the area served its purpose in closing a fantastic loop. We did get some good glimpses of Mt Taranaki as we left it behind.

Heading away from the highway again, this time inland.

A steep climb on the highway out of Waitotara was followed by more ascent towards a quarry in the hills – there were an alarming number of big trucks going to and from it. That did at least put us back into the Whanganui region and the landscape got a little rougher and captured my attention more as we rolled down to as close to the coast as we would get.

Crossing the highway for the last time, the Kai Iwi hall provided a nice cool water top-up and shade to make a big dent in the food we were carrying. Only twenty kilometres from the finish point, Fay had put in an eighty kilometre detour up into the hills – a stroke of genius, as I’d soon find out. I’m unsure what others felt about this routing so close to the end, but we had a line to follow and follow it we did. I tried to rationalise the climb as about the same length, with less elevation gain, as one of my local favourites, Waipunga Rd. It didn’t seem so daunting…

A shed – because we’d seen so many on this route, ranging from rustic to tumbledown. I’m sure plenty were slept in…

The climb was steady, shaded and sealed as far as Bushy Park; with little traffic, it was enjoyable. Onto gravel, the steady nature continued – it never got steep and, unlike Waipunga Rd, it never lost altitude significantly. With wide, smooth gravel I was delighting in consistently climbing and seeing what would open up in front of us. This was quickly becoming the highlight of the route, I was having a ball and feeling close to what used to be normal – nothing like getting close to the finish to empty the tank a bit more.

The summit wasn’t immediately obvious as there were slight dips and rises along the top. I waited before the big drop, during which someone told me a wide load was making its way towards us. When Brent appeared, my curiosity as to what on earth was being hauled up here was not strong enough as my conviction we’d easily beat it down the twisty downhill. We scarpered.

Whanganui National Park, again, in the background.

Dropping to, unsurprisingly, Kai Iwi Stream just meant we had to regain 150 metres on another excellent climb.

We did at least make better progress from the stream than some.

Now, this is fun!

Reaching the Kauarapaoa Rd junction, there was ample time to savour the excellent climbing, new sights and be enticed by this:

There started thirty wonderful kilometres of singletrack road, grass up the middle, still next to no traffic and riding bliss into and down the valley. What a way to get back to Whanganui! The best until last, and that’s saying something.

From then an easy section along the river, eventually crossing it near the city centre and grovelling up to the Start/Finish at Durie Hill. A late entry, with everything going on, I was well pleased I’d made the effort to come across and see just what a great route Fay had put together. Thankfully, for my current state, it wasn’t as hilly as I’m used to or I may have really suffered; planning a slower five-day ride worked a treat, plenty of time to eat, rest, recover, and enjoy the sights and good company along the way – thanks especially to Brent.

Made it!

The finish bonus being finally going on the Durie Hill Elevator down the centre of the hill and out the tunnel. An ice cream was in order, and more food besides. Time to pack and head home feeling privileged to have health, means, time and lack of restrictions to enjoy these days exploring more of the country with friends.

bikepacking, bikes, event, friends, GPS, NZ

Renegades Muster 2021 – Day 4 – Whangamomona to Patea

Leave a comment

An earlier start than the very leisurely seven o’clocks, as with so many staying in the same place someone is bound to wake and rise early. That suited as with the thunderstorms cutting Day 3 short, there was an hour or two of extra riding to catch up to the five-day plan. The misty rain we rolled into wasn’t enough for waterproof layers as we were soon off the Forgotten World Highway and heading south.

A little pleasant climbing to start.

The formed road petered out to a gate leading to an unmaintained public road – with signs warning as much. This was where we’d start to discover just how much more difficult that storm had made things. It was a bit muddy as we approached and followed the Tangarakau River, the predominant light brown clayey mud wasn’t too bad but the small patches of grey papa were tacky and soon started sticking and building up. It came close, but thankfully there was never quite enough to bind the wheels completely. With ample patches of grass to ride on, progress was slowed – but not confined to walking.

Leaving the river, to cross Okara Stream and begin the climb out.

Now you tell us.

Rachel and Gina caught up and we climbed together. I see now that we skirted the boundary of Whanganui National Park, I had little idea at the time. Soon we were within a mere five kilometres of where we camped on the first night of the paddle down the Whanganui – only a fortnight before. So much to see in such a small area! Which goes for much of New Zealand really. The surface was more grass-covered and less muddy for the climb, and the cloud kept the temperature down.

The descent on rough farm track to and along Kuri Stream was much fun, riding just on the safe side of loose. I had to slow at times with a couple of herds of cattle to negotiate. We regrouped at each gate – I must have been getting some energy back as I opened and closed plenty! At the farm buildings, we visited the kennels to make use of a high volume hose to get much of the mud off our bikes.

Finally I got to the Bridge to Somewhere! The same as the one to Nowhere, it is slightly more accessible – there is one road to it.

The dirty Kuri joining the “clean” Whangamomona on its way to its Whanganui confluence.

The biggest climb of the day (only a couple of hundred metres) took us out of the Whanganui watershed and back into Taranaki. At the crest I was curious about the Matemateonga trailhead – the other one is near the second night’s campsite of the recent river trip. Might be worth a good hiking adventure someday.

But don’t stray – there was a proliferation of similar signs all the way down the sweet Mangaehu descent.

After noon now, we rejoined sealed roads and stopped in the shade outside a school – eventually finding some water. Easy riding, occasionally a little lumpy, down the valley was still quiet before a pinch climb and short section on the highway towards Stratford; thankfully we turned south before town and headed for Eltham and a good cafe stop. We said our goodbyes to Rachel and Gina trying to accommodation for the night – so it was with some surprise we saw them two hours later rolling through Hawera as we finished our ice cream and dinner.

With plenty of daylight left, we left them again to shorten tomorrow’s ride to the finish, off into the evening heading southeast on a convoluted route that did a good job of mostly avoiding the busy highway.

Looking towards where we’d, in a roundabout way, come from and wondering if there was another afternoon thunderstorm unleashing.

The cap of clouds dissipated as the sun sunk.

The last of the sunlight, it was a nice evening to peel off an easy forty kilometres – characterised by mostly flat dairy land interspersed with dropping into drainages and grovelling up the other side.

We actually put lights on our bikes for the last little stretch of highway into Patea. Just as we were riding into town, I was turning on my GPS’s backlight and noticed the route did a sudden turn right through some farmland. This hadn’t been mentioned; we dutifully followed it for a couple of kilometres down farm tracks and past plenty of curious calves. Back on another edge of town, we found a large implement and hay shed that looked a bit like a council works’ depot and definitely suitable for a place to bed down for the night. Turns out that the detour through private farmland was an unintended anomaly from the mapping software that left a farmer bewildered as to why his land was sudden popular with cyclists; oops!

A lovely evening of riding to finish another great day on the Renegades Muster – our longest yet, but even less climbing than previous days. Great fun, the highlight was the farm section – particularly that descent!