Category Archives: hiking

hiking, NZ

Silver Peaks intro – Jubilee Hut Loop S24O

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The painting, mowing, tidying and general prep for, and then the, first open home done; I had to get away for a night. With a favourable forecast, what better opportunity to pop into the Silver Peaks Park for the first time. Only half an hour’s drive from both current-home and Dunedin this is a great area for small hiking or running trips. Mid-afternoon before I could depart, I thought I’d easily make it into Jubilee Hut before dark – online booking indicated I’d probably have it all to myself.

Leaving the car, the track slowly ascending to Green Hill was easy walking sheltered from the cool sea breeze by manuka. Apparently it would take me four hours for the nine kilometres to the hut, I was not convinced that would be so carrying only a light overnight pack.

Occasional glimpses of surrounding forest – both native and exotic.

Light clouds continued to blow through, keeping the afternoon temperatures quite bearable.

Just as I was thinking that the track looked quite rideable, it did get steeper – and stepped in places. I enjoyed picking out the trail ahead as it climbed to Silver Peak, and identifying various landmarks in the distance that I had a fair idea of what they might be.

Unsure what it was I was expecting but it wasn’t so many outcrops.

At the summit in little over an hour, I enjoyed having plenty of time and daylight to appreciate the views. It was odd to be easily able to see Mosgiel, a suburb of Dunedin, but the rest of the views were more expected.

North over the Bendoran Station – there’s good gravel riding in the hills just beyond that; Rock and Pillar Range coming in from the left background.

I could just spot the private Christmas Creek Hut, but of more relevance to my walk was the track to the Devil’s Staircase which would drop me four hundred metres in less than a couple of kilometres – that might slow progress a bit.

Looking back along the trail towards Pulpit Rock.

Starting down the staircase; Jubilee Hut just visible in a clearing in the trees above the true left of creek.

The descent wasn’t nearly as tough as I was told – but due mostly to it being completely dry, I suspect.

Down a the valley floor for the last section alongside and crossing the creek.

A beautiful stretch of beech forest delighted for the ten minutes I was down by the creek, before the climb up to the hut.

Looking back to the ridge and Devil’s Staircase – not too bad at all.

Well, that only took two hours of walking to find I did indeed have the hut to myself. Far more daylight and time to enjoy the peaceful surroundings than I imagined.

The large flax bushes would later provide good viewing of various small birds feeding on the flowers at twilight.

With the water tank empty at the hut, popping down the hill to the creek and carefully balancing not-for-purpose containers on the return was not a hardship when it is as tranquil as this.

Slow to rise after one of the longest and deepest sleeps I’ve ever had in a hut, there was no rush to close the loop. Eventually I was down to and over the creek, climbing up the other side past the previous hut site. Morning dew wetting my legs made me conscious that this section of track was far more overgrown than that which I’d seen so far. Over halfway up the steep climb, the track widened to old double track and became a little faster.

Those tracks look rideable…

Sidling off the ridge to meet a small creek, trail finding was a bit more difficult as the gorse closed in. A brief diversion took me up to ABC Cave. Turned out I could have easily made it here the night before, which would have been fun – but I had a very nice night as it was, so no regrets there.

Could probably get four on that sleeping platform.

Leaving the creek as it was only just forming here, and two more nice looking patches of beech, I regained the ridge – now on the Yellow Ridge Route.

Recognising the peaks close to current-home.

Down to Waikouaiti, on that small bay.

I detoured again to check out The Gap and the view from the trig. The double track here quite overgrown by gorse, and even some spainard, legs were mightily scratched as I barely negotiated what was left of the trail.

Back along the track to The Gap.

Thankfully the views were worth a nice break to soak them in on a mild, clear and still morning.

Down to Blueskin Bay area.

I had hoped to go back along Rocky Ridge to Pulpit Rock – this route reported to have the best views in the park – but the track was overgrown enough that I couldn’t find it, and my legs were itchy enough. So back along the Yellow Ridge it was.

Ah yes, the naming of The Gap becomes even more obvious down here.

Dropping a little and then along the ridge I was soon at the small Philip J. Cox Memorial Hut – might be worth a stay sometime. The route traditionally drops down and crosses the Waikouaiti South before climbing up to a forestry road – for a six kilometre gravel road walk back to the parking lot. Ugh. Thankfully, an alternative has recently been opened.

Start of the River Track.

Soon in quite different surroundings, I enjoyed the drop to river (further upstream than the old route).

Marking of the track is still in its infancy, there was only one part where I really had to stop and work out just where the track went.

Not having to cross the river, it was nice to cross each tributary – plenty of opportunities to drink and wet my cap as the early afternoon warmed.

At the bottom of the valley, the trail was much more benched and easier to follow than coming down off the ridge.

I came across two volunteers, the only people I saw out there that day, cutting in more switchbacks to bypass a steeper section. I appreciated chatting for a while and hear of all the work they’d been helping with in here expanding the trail network. So close to Dunedin, I could see from this brief excursion what a great park it is in such proximity to the city.

Having passed them, I was on trail that had had a lot more recent attention. Some of the trail building solutions and resourcefulness were equally impressive and ingeneous.

My last little side-trip – up to Possum Hut. Unlikely to ever sleep here.

Interesting walls though.

One last hundred metres climb up the new Gold Miners Direct track and I was back at my very dusty car. What an excellent morning to complete a fun little overnight. With all my little diversions, it was four hours of walking for eighteen kilometres – somehow well over a thousand metres of climbing in there, didn’t feel like it. The whole loop would be a good day walk or run (provided good weather is picked, I can see it’d be nasty up here in adverse conditions) – but I wanted a nice little overnighter and that’s what I got. Brilliant wee outing and I’m looking forward to further exploring when I’m in the area with time to spare.

around home, hiking, NZ

Te Puia and Makino

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Five years of hot springs bikepacking trips, and the one a fortnight ago was finally enough to motivate me to get into the Kaweka Forest Park properly – rather than just biking to the edge and sitting in a hot pool.

Instead I’d drive after lunch Saturday to the road end and make the short walk into Te Puia Lodge – the only serviced hut in the park and a good option for a quick, lightweight overnighter. Despite almost being hit by them, I was pleased to see the three full vans of a local high school were driving out; the hut may have been rather loud that night had they been going in.

Warmer than the forecast suggested, it was a lovely walk in. Having only really crossed it, by bike on each of the six bridges I know of, I was well pleased to spend much time walking beside the Mohaka River. Mostly dry, the track was easily walkable in the running shoes I’d opted for; often it climbed away from the river over or around a bluff – which helped with varying the walking and giving some views. I enjoyed each aspect of the scene unfolding, all new to me.

Fair flow after recent rain.

A hundred minutes in, the first signs of Te Puia appeared and then there on a clearing beside the river and opposite a waterfall, there it was. Chatting to three recent forestry grads (only slightly relevant as one had just started at my work – predictably in Forests), I claimed a bunk and ditched most of the little gear I’d carried in.

I thought there was enough daylight left to run/walk/scramble up and back down what looked a steep hill to another hut for a look-see. Surely it wasn’t two hours of walking to go two-ish kilometres and climb five hundred metres… Soon reaching at a jog, but not crossing, the bridge over the Makino the trail to Makino Hut suddenly got steep. Any semblance of running ceased and I was picking a path up, up and up trying to keep my footing. After the first hundred metres of gain, the trail got steeper again for the next two hundred.

The steepest part, thankfully not too wet, or dry, to reduce traction.

Strangely, the canopy got taller the higher I got. Topping out at around a thousand metres, the forest was most impressive for the last little undulating bit to the hut – unloaded it only took an hour to reach. Cripes, one could hardly miss it – an old NZ Forest Service hut from the sixties, its bright orange paint was still resplendent in the late afternoon sun. I soon found out why as three guys appeared and explained that they’d been there for three days waterblasting, prepping and painting the hut and outbuildings. I wasn’t expecting to find some many people up here, so it was nice to chat and hear about their voluntary work. They also pointed me down a small track to a viewpoint.

The Mohaka (Te Puia is just to the right of that little bit of whitewater) and the ranges north beyond.

Losing the sun, it was time to set off down to dinner. It certainly was cooler descending, and my poor quads got a hammering – which, as usual, they’ve taken two days to forcefully remind me of. Self-preservation slowed me some, but I was still down within two hours of leaving not having slipped or tripped – skin intact.

Back at the hut, there was time to prepare and enjoy dinner before heading upriver for the Mangatainoka hot springs with the large family group also staying. Yes, more hot springs. Somehow the chat turned from hiking to bikepacking on the forty minute walk – I may have had something to do with that.

Crossing the bridge over the Makino this time; the hut is up on that ridge somewhere clad in trees.

There’s a sweet campsite too at the track end, with a nice little sandy beach on the river edge. Might be a good option for next time… With a few buckets of cold water from the river, the tub was good for a long soak as dark gathered and we watched the river disappear.

Surprise, the hot springs have been flashed up.

Back by torchlight for tea, cards, wine and chocolate. Tough evening. With a dozen staying and the fire dying out during the night (unsure why it was lit, was almost unbearably warm through the evening), my lightest sleeping bag was enough for a good night’s sleep without. Breakfast down the hatch, it didn’t take long to pack my minimal gear up and bid goodbye to my hut buddies. It tried to rain on the way back, but never really got going enough to drag a jacket out.

Pleased to see the bush start to turn white as the manuka blossoms, reminding me of the bright hillsides of my first visit to the end of Makahu Road.

Soon back at the car and in the same time again I was back in town, a very successful twenty-four hours away complete. The guys at Makino Hut told me there are twenty-six huts and bivies in the park, that sounds an interesting little project over the coming seasons.

bikes, friends, hiking, MTB, NZ

Whirinaki weekend

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For the third time in a year, a most excellent stay at the Rec. Camp in Whirinaki Forest Park. This time, a more relaxed visit introducing friends to the superb example of native North Island podocarp forest – teeming with birdlife too. Bike trips have brought me here before, but this time I packed not only bike shoes (and a bike), but walking shoes, hiking boots and running shoes. Pleasingly, all were used.

Home for the weekend.

Unexpectedly cold when we arrived Friday night, fireplaces in the cabins sure helped on a brilliantly clear and starry night. It clouded overnight, so more mild waking Saturday; after an early breakfast I wandered down to check out the Whirinaki River just below camp. I was thrilled to hear a vocal pair of whio, and more so to see them. Also known as blue duck, these are a threatened species (far rarer than kiwi, for instance) that live in fast flowing rivers and streams.


How they manage to find and feed on small invertebrates in such quick water still amazes me.

The short loop on the Whirinaki mountain bike track was under the canopy of towering giants, and the downhill on a rough and ready, rutted track was the most fun I’ve had on a mountain bike in a long time. It was a nice change to let go and know that the bike would soak up all but the biggest hits – rather different to a loaded, fully-rigid bikepacking rig!

The rest of the weekend was spent on foot, walking to waterfalls, the ephemeral Arohaki Lagoon and running back, gazing in wonder up at the mind-blowingly numerous giants of the forest, listening to the birdlife and most of all learning more about it all. So good to take people knowledgeable about such things along – the enthusiasm was infectious, hopefully some of the knowledge was too.

Wheki-ponga may have been the word of the weekend.

Kahikatea line the lagoon on a misty Sunday morning.

Some marshmallows may have been harmed in the making of s’mores.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, hiking

Bell Rock & Tiwhanui

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With a recent foray into small trail runs, I started looking for a suitable day to finally get up to Bell Rock. It’s notoriously windy up there, the kind of wind where people my size struggle to stand up. Liking to stay near the ground when running, I patiently waited for a clear day (the views are one of the drawcards) with little wind.

After a week of wintry weather, and while the first park run in months tired me out, I was not wasting a glorious Saturday afternoon. Quite a drive later, I was at the trailhead rather counting on that I’d get back before dark. Only three kilometres out, the trail starts with a steep, rooty and slippery section through native bush. I was slow enough not to injure myself, before emerging onto the ridge – the sheltered side it turned out.

Those hills on the coast became more familiar the following day.

Longer, tussocky grass surrounded and then turned into the route. In the shaded parts of the undulations snow lingered from two days before. That was negotiated slowly, but without incident before a climb over the ridge put me into the wind. I’m glad I chose a stiller day – it was very blowly, and just warm enough to linger without extra layers chatting to a few other daytrippers.

As expected, the views were expansive and I thoroughly enjoyed picking out roads and hills I’d ridden, all the while helping to further piece the jigsaw of Hawke’s Bay together.

The northern face of the Kawekas, with some rare snow.

North over the Mohaka and stretching towards Whirinaki.

Mahia Peninsula in the background, must get back there.

Yup, more hills.

Turning, I followed the ridge line all the way back to the road and then that to the car. Fantastic little run, I await a few spare hours and the weather coinciding again.

After liaising with farmers for access across three farms to reach my favourite Hawke’s Bay views for this year’s HBAT, Sunday was the day to scout it out. The first farm was a bit of a long shot, and is not really necessary for the route – but it would add variety. I also suspect I’d be roundly cursed – the other two farms are steep enough, this was another level. Having said that, it was absolutely brilliant – steep climbs on mostly-dry grassed tracks, frequent views of so many Hawke’s Bay landmarks, remote and deserted as far as people went (the stock were numerous, and mystified).

Partway up the first climb, looking down on the farmhouse; Cape Kidnappers on the horizon.

My path was level, briefly – but still surrounded by hills.

Welcoming party to another farmhouse, now unused, and with no road access. Private beach is pretty good, but.

Fair warning of the start of the next climb.

I missed a track turning left and when I realised, it made more sense to just forge ahead on the track I was on and get back on route. Sure it was hilly, but how hard could eight hundred metres be. I need the hike-a-bike practice after all.

I found myself atop cliffs earlier than expected.

They may have been subsiding a little; looking toward Wairoa.

That’s the way I was heading, after the summit.

Those twelve kilometres only took two hours. Eight hundred metres of climbing, with a fair bit of descent (some of that also hike-a-bike), was a solid start to the day’s loop. Napier just visible in the centre, the three peaks behind Havelock North also just there.

One of the reasons I love being up there.

There starts a screaming descent on a not too-rough, but hardly smooth, farm track. Most enjoyable, especially as everything had dried out after the week’s rain.

A few more, littler, hills.

Bell Rock is up in the cloud covered hills.

Out of the farms, that was a fraction of the distance for the day. I only had to continue battling the northerly briefly before turning to have it at my back. After a late lunch at my most-frequented country store, I ambled up Darky’s Spur as shadows lengthened. A single motorbike passed me before I hit the seal, crossed the highway, found the gravel again for some lovely ridge riding before the plunge back to sea level and my car. Gracious hospitality at the first farmhouse had many bike and travel stories shared; they thought I was nuts, but it’s all relative – they’d also seen people biking the Canning Stock Route, that sounds far more nuts to me.