Category Archives: NZ

bikepacking, bikes, GPS, NZ

Akitio Overnighter

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I didn’t take much convincing to join one of Amanda’s Tour Te Waipounamu training weekends in neighbouring Tararua district. Learning it was her preferred Wellington escape for gravel roads and hills was enough. Alas, I’m back to having to carefully manage my leave from work, so I couldn’t join for Friday’s riding. Timing it well, we met Friday night at the Dannevirke campground to find it extremely well sheltered from the high winds that had been around all day.

Away at half-six into an overcast and still windy Saturday, a delightful twenty kilometre detour cut out a few kilometres of the busy road to Weber. With no traffic and slight hills, I’m intrigued by the connector to Te Uri (a favourite part of this year’s HBAT course) and the longer option of the loop we did. Back on the Weber road for twenty minutes, we dove off south for the Waitahora Valley and roads all new to me (I’d ridden only seven percent of the day’s route previously). No sooner had the gravel started, than it turned to freshly graded – so fresh we had to negotiate the grader approaching, blade spanning the entire road.

Grader passed safely; beside the Mangatoro Stream.

Next up Amanda had an hour or so of hike-a-bike through the Waewaepa Reserve planned – ten kilometres of long-since overgrown road, now good for ATVs, bikes and walking. But first, a rest. Very rare that I ride for four hours with no stops for food – there’s always something to stop and take a photo of, someone to talk to… But not today, being a bit slower I didn’t stop lest I hold things up or get completely left behind. A big snack break and discussion of what we’d find on the track was welcome.

Well benched for the most part, we were soon pushing up a couple of hundred metres for forty minutes – avoiding the cutty grass, small bogs, water running down the road and, with varying degrees of success, the ongaonga (a stinging nettle). The downhill section was at least mostly rideable, even if there was far more ongaonga to avoid.

Soon down to the Tiraumea River and some flattish riding beside it, only now do I realise how very close we were to State Highway Two and a couple of small towns. We found a spot out of the wind for lunch, before the short section I’d actually been on before (“It looks a nice spot to come back to explore some of the gravel roads I’ve since realised are nearby.“! True words, only took me twenty months…). Pleasingly, I even recognised it – especially the beautiful Makuri Gorge.

Strange to see some traffic again, even stranger to see it flashing high beams at us. We quickly realised that Guy had done a really good job of estimating our progress from my tracker. His bike quickly off the back of the truck, up the fantastic Pori Road we went, chatting all the way helping to pass the climb up to skirt around the south of the Puketois. Guy needn’t have worried about being slow, I was the straggler again – but at least I could try to snap some photos as we rode along.

Grey, green, lumpy.

Down on Route 52 quickly, in one of those tired lapses of concentration it took me a fair while to realise it – the Rapid numbers (in rural areas they measure tens of metres from the start of a road) were improbably high. Route 52 (a long ago declassified highway and very popular for cycle touring) is even quieter in these parts! Heading east for the coast now, the wind was now paying back for all the toil earlier in the day. Still, I lagged. Finally, a water source at Tiraumea Hall – and another big snack stop. Even if my hayfever did kick in.

Shortly after, Guy left us to return up and over the Puketois to his truck. All three eyed warily the ominous black clouds gathering back that way. Straight back on gravel, Amanda and I headed for the beach. Hills abounded again, but the sun continued to shine basically wherever we were. Ahead and behind looked well grim, with legs tiring the tailwind was much appreciated. Occasionally it had to be battled, but generally it pushed us to the coast.

The most striking hills of the day – helps being able to see them.

We chased this rainbow for quite some time, and watched it grow.

I was actually there – about the time we were sure rain would soon dump down, it didn’t.

The last little climb before dropping to Akitio.

Into the wind for the last time, down to see what’s at Akitio.

All day we’d been hoping we’d arrive before the burger van closed. We managed it with an hour to spare, and promptly loaded up with burgers, wedges, fritters and ice cream. It was quickly devoured and at the little campground we were warmly welcomed and advised where best to camp to shelter from the wind. We were only the second group to bike in this year! I think I know the other. How is that possible? It’s a great spot and excellent riding; ok, we were both pretty exhausted – but we didn’t exactly take the direct, flat route. There is much potential around here.

That extra shelter came in handy, as the wind really got up before midnight – before dropping and the sky clearing nicely for sleepy stargazing. Sunday was a slightly later start and, both wanting to get to our respective homes in the late afternoon, a far more direct route. But it wasn’t the most direct as we found extra hills and gravel roads. The wind stayed moderate and with a clear sky I appreciated being able to see more. My GPS logged a fair bit of climbing, so it wasn’t a complete cake walk.

I particularly enjoyed looking north over Central Hawke’s Bay and early-HBAT terrain, not to mention spying the Triple Peaks of Kahuranaki, Erin and Te Mata close to home.

It took riding up to the apiarists to work out that this chopper was hauling hives into the bush.

Guy had told us of Sunday’s country market at Weber, which we found in full swing mid-morning. It was definitely time for tasty paua rolls and such things – as well as catching up with Guy and Jane. Amanda headed south to her car, and me back to Dannevirke to mine, with plenty of time for the drives home. What an excellent weekend of biking new places, eating plenty and spending time with great bikepacking buddies – and not having to do any planning, thanks Amanda! Only the first weekend of December and already the summer is too full of plans to fit in all I want to do – so good to be in that position.

around home, hiking, NZ

Te Puia and Makino

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Five years of hot springs bikepacking trips, and the one a fortnight ago was finally enough to motivate me to get into the Kaweka Forest Park properly – rather than just biking to the edge and sitting in a hot pool.

Instead I’d drive after lunch Saturday to the road end and make the short walk into Te Puia Lodge – the only serviced hut in the park and a good option for a quick, lightweight overnighter. Despite almost being hit by them, I was pleased to see the three full vans of a local high school were driving out; the hut may have been rather loud that night had they been going in.

Warmer than the forecast suggested, it was a lovely walk in. Having only really crossed it, by bike on each of the six bridges I know of, I was well pleased to spend much time walking beside the Mohaka River. Mostly dry, the track was easily walkable in the running shoes I’d opted for; often it climbed away from the river over or around a bluff – which helped with varying the walking and giving some views. I enjoyed each aspect of the scene unfolding, all new to me.

Fair flow after recent rain.

A hundred minutes in, the first signs of Te Puia appeared and then there on a clearing beside the river and opposite a waterfall, there it was. Chatting to three recent forestry grads (only slightly relevant as one had just started at my work – predictably in Forests), I claimed a bunk and ditched most of the little gear I’d carried in.

I thought there was enough daylight left to run/walk/scramble up and back down what looked a steep hill to another hut for a look-see. Surely it wasn’t two hours of walking to go two-ish kilometres and climb five hundred metres… Soon reaching at a jog, but not crossing, the bridge over the Makino the trail to Makino Hut suddenly got steep. Any semblance of running ceased and I was picking a path up, up and up trying to keep my footing. After the first hundred metres of gain, the trail got steeper again for the next two hundred.

The steepest part, thankfully not too wet, or dry, to reduce traction.

Strangely, the canopy got taller the higher I got. Topping out at around a thousand metres, the forest was most impressive for the last little undulating bit to the hut – unloaded it only took an hour to reach. Cripes, one could hardly miss it – an old NZ Forest Service hut from the sixties, its bright orange paint was still resplendent in the late afternoon sun. I soon found out why as three guys appeared and explained that they’d been there for three days waterblasting, prepping and painting the hut and outbuildings. I wasn’t expecting to find some many people up here, so it was nice to chat and hear about their voluntary work. They also pointed me down a small track to a viewpoint.

The Mohaka (Te Puia is just to the right of that little bit of whitewater) and the ranges north beyond.

Losing the sun, it was time to set off down to dinner. It certainly was cooler descending, and my poor quads got a hammering – which, as usual, they’ve taken two days to forcefully remind me of. Self-preservation slowed me some, but I was still down within two hours of leaving not having slipped or tripped – skin intact.

Back at the hut, there was time to prepare and enjoy dinner before heading upriver for the Mangatainoka hot springs with the large family group also staying. Yes, more hot springs. Somehow the chat turned from hiking to bikepacking on the forty minute walk – I may have had something to do with that.

Crossing the bridge over the Makino this time; the hut is up on that ridge somewhere clad in trees.

There’s a sweet campsite too at the track end, with a nice little sandy beach on the river edge. Might be a good option for next time… With a few buckets of cold water from the river, the tub was good for a long soak as dark gathered and we watched the river disappear.

Surprise, the hot springs have been flashed up.

Back by torchlight for tea, cards, wine and chocolate. Tough evening. With a dozen staying and the fire dying out during the night (unsure why it was lit, was almost unbearably warm through the evening), my lightest sleeping bag was enough for a good night’s sleep without. Breakfast down the hatch, it didn’t take long to pack my minimal gear up and bid goodbye to my hut buddies. It tried to rain on the way back, but never really got going enough to drag a jacket out.

Pleased to see the bush start to turn white as the manuka blossoms, reminding me of the bright hillsides of my first visit to the end of Makahu Road.

Soon back at the car and in the same time again I was back in town, a very successful twenty-four hours away complete. The guys at Makino Hut told me there are twenty-six huts and bivies in the park, that sounds an interesting little project over the coming seasons.

around home, bikepacking, bikes, event, GPS, NZ

HBAT20 shortened

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Ten days between returning from the excellent West Coast bikepacking tour and setting off for the 2020 edition of the Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour was always going to be a bit rushed for sorting out the last minute details. Still all the things were done: farm inductions, finalising the tracking, answering the emails and questions, assembling my bike, getting overly excited and following up a last minute section through stunning private land, adding said section to the route and so on. From a few days out I noticed my hours of sleep gradually decrease to about three hours per night and the telltale tic of tiredness return for the first time in some years.

Twas all worth it though to have fourteen riders assemble at Ranui Farm Park the Thursday night before the four day long weekend. That worked really well (save an annoying miscommunication with room bookings), getting to see everyone for some hours before the ride started at dawn the following morning. So good to have half the field returning riders and get to meet for the first time other people I’d only exchanged emails with.

Friday morning and ready to go before sunrise.

Finally, I could challenge myself on the course I’d designed to be as such, and interesting to me. Turns out more time should have been paid to my pedals, as one promptly fell to pieces and slid off the spindle still attached to my foot. Bit of a showstopper, but as far as a place to have such things happen – one kilometre from the start is about as good as any on a remote course. Sad to see everyone else go, I turned and hoped Greg hadn’t left for Napier already. Phew, he was still there and we were soon heading home – where I swapped in pedals from another bike and made the drive back. The crazy amount of fog from just north of the start all the way to Napier persisted for the drive’s entirety, but strangely was not on the course at all.

Three hours later I was back on the route and wondering if I’d still make my goal of being back in Napier that night. A nice gentle start, in this crazy year it was a privilege to be out riding such a ride with or without the group ahead. Seeing many tyre tracks in the gravel reminded me of this and brought a smile to my face – some of it may have been a touch of pride that I’d somehow convinced people to get out and spend their long weekend on a course I’d designed. They may or may not trust me in such a way again.

Still flat, not for long.

A three hour delay wasn’t really that frustrating, after all I was soon out riding in the sun drenched countryside.

Diverting from last year’s course, the hills quickly began on a section I love. But first, a long moment to pause on the the very spot where a couple of months before I’d met a fantastic farmer who generously allowed us to ride through his farm. Tragically he’s gone far too young after a freak accident on the farm; I only chatted to Harry for quarter of an hour, yet it’s had quite an impact – part of it, another reason to savour being able to get out and make the most of opportunities presented. Eventually back riding – a dead-end road, a hilly farm crossing and then a blissful section with twenty kilometres of gravel, views of the ocean and surrounding farmland, grass up the middle of the little used road and then the long descent to sea level…

After noon by now, the store and excellent coffee cart at Porangahau was most welcome for chatting and refuelling before the steep climb up Old Hill Rd. Was a little mean putting that on the course, but the gradual downhill from the top is, I think, worth it. With over twenty kilometres to go to the beach, the tide would be mostly out by the time I arrived. Along the coastal section of Blackhead Rd, I was entertained by a stunt plane practising – a spectacular show which seemed just for me. The climb at the end of the road was not far from my mind, but conquered as I began to slow a hundred kilometres in.

The tide was still heading out, the sand not yet firm and for the first time that day a headwind – toughest trip on this beach yet.

It was encouraging to see so many people out on the beaches – camping, fishing, diving, walking, on motorbikes. Far more than we saw last year, mostly I expect because the weather was far better. Finding a hose to rinse my bike was a chance to chat to a local and top up water bottles before the big climb out of Pourerere. It’s a good one and I found my first other HBATer of the day at the top – another good opportunity for a chat. I thought I was just going to be on time to cross the second farm before night fell – when riding through was not allowed.

More wonderful, deserted gravel back down to sea level and Kairakau. A lovely evening it was shaping up to be. Stopping at the shearers quarters I found four other riders preparing to make use of the generous offer of accommodation from the farmer – alas the water supply was down. Time was tight for me to get up the big hill, but I, and the others, thought I could do it. Thankfully I know the route well enough, so I was not slowed by route finding difficulties; but I was starting to fade and on the steep, rugged grass farm track pushing my bike became more efficient than trying to ride.

South to all the places I’d just been.

There were far more gates to open and close this year, and plenty of stock around (those two not unrelated). Light fading for the big downhill, I certainly was cutting it fine. Quite the trade-off to make the most of the available light, but not reckless on rough farm tracks in the gathering gloom. Just out before dark, phew, and towards Waimarama. Half-eight by now and completely dark, my plan for making it home hadn’t really changed. It probably should have as I walked anything remotely steep up the last big climb; very odd – I have never come close to walking up Maraetotara Rd, steep as it is, before. Strange thing, I was never in any doubt that I’d make it home – one just had to keep on going.

Suddenly rain on the downhill, it didn’t last long and there was but forty kilometres home. That was just over two hours, and I was pleased to see I’d missed much more rain. Bike in the garage and into my house to sneak around trying not to wake a houseful of fellow bikepackers. I think I managed it, but couldn’t bring myself to find too much food lest I disturb people that had had just as big a day of riding as me. My poor body probably needed the fuel to mend a bit.

Head racing, I hardly slept again and woke early when the house rose to head north for a much tougher day of riding. Completely shattered, I dragged myself up and deliberated whether I should continue the course. I’d at least not fallen into the trap of scratching at the end of the day, instead waiting to see what morning would bring. As it was, there was no energy and a deep fatigue from the previous day and week. Everyone having left, I had nothing and couldn’t rouse myself to a day of many hills that I couldn’t have a good shot at.

So I was left with the ignominy of pulling out of my own ride only a day and one-third in. Disappointing to say the least; and a fair amount of worry that I’d made a ridiculous course that no one would enjoy – funny how those voices materialise. But I knew I was dog-tired and resolved to look after myself and not beat myself up too much. I tried to remind myself that I ride such places for enjoyment; if it’s not fun on some level, there’s little point.

In the end, few made it past Napier and no one finished the 750 km route. Four did amazingly well to make it through the many hills inland of Wairoa and pulled out before the last hundred-odd kilometres back to Napier; I think I misstepped in ending the route in Napier to try and help people with travel logistics. Plenty of things learned again; they may be useful if I find the enthusiasm and energy to run another HBAT. In separating my own disheartening HBAT from the weekend in general: people got out riding bikes, seeing new places in good weather, being challenged and spending time with friends new and old – so I’m counting that as a win.

Since then, I took a couple of weeks doing comparatively little and dealing with the disappointment of my own ride and the tiredness. I was unsure if my excitement for doing big bikepacking rides would return, which was concerning with two big South Island adventures coming up late-summer. Unfortunately I could not get up for the Mega ten days ago, but with a couple of shorter and less ambitious bikepacking trips over the last two weekends, the keenness to ride far and see plenty of new things is slowly returning – huzzah!

bikepacking, bikes, NZ

Apiti Ridge Ride

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Responsible in part for a last-minute addition being needed to the exciting collection of short (<500km) routes as Bikepacking Aotearoa goes to print, the least I could do was turn up for the corresponding scouting ride. I was very keen for a weekend away riding not too far with a small group. Not least because, while the route seems to have been picked from staring at a map, this particular Ridge Road had independently been highly recommended.

The rest of the crew drove north the morning of, while I managed to squeeze in being a Park Run tourist. I’m still to rediscover the running pace I had last summer, but it was a good hit out and I didn’t suffer too much over the weekend for it. Loop direction changing last minute (I suspect due to the forecast winds, I never really asked or minded), I had a little further to go after hastily showering and packing food and clothes on my bike. With accommodation booked in Apiti, it was a complete luxury to not have to carry camping gear.

Meeting at the excellent new(ish) footbridge over the Manawatu, we were soon off skirting around the southern edges of the city into a fair breeze. None too inspiring following what’s left of the Mangaone Stream (which really could do with planting out in natives), it did at least have the advantages of being traffic free and taking me places I’ve not been. We missed a turn, backtracked a mile or so and rejoined our route to find a small collection of people (and a lovely Welsh spaniel) looking for, as we learned later, an older man missing for a fair few weeks. A series of left and right turns took us out of town through the slanted grid to Bunnythorpe and morning tea – hot chips went down a treat under the cloudy skies and strengthening wind.

Another ten clicks was about our most-prolonged wind battling for the day, to where we’d meet the rest of our cohorts at Colyton. Seems to be haymaking time around here, my hayfever not quite aggravated yet.

Suddenly, for us – not at the speed these move, much older tractors.

Strangely, one originally all the way from Puketitiri – a remote rural area in Hawke’s Bay which I’d ridden through but one week before.

Curious style to this church in Colyton.

A mere thirty-five kilometres into the route is early enough for lunch right? Seemed so, with more new riding buddies to meet and calories to be replaced we set to the task at the wonderful little shipping container-housed Ginger Bird Cafe. Eating plenty, we also loaded up on many slices for the few miles ahead before setting off for Apiti. The norwester stiffened some, but we were mostly riding across it so it was not too onerous.

Found the gravel, the traffic continuing to disappear really not all that far from the city.

A brief section heading east, the climbing continuing to the anticipated Ridge Road.

More haymaking did set my eyes and nose off, joining Ridge Road was a worthy time for another snack break. It’s hard work trying to get through the supplies at an optimal rate. There began almost thirty kilometres of gravel gradually climbing up to the trig point of 550 m. The wind tended more westerly as, while very strong, it was seldom a struggle to ride into. The surface, I thought, was mostly good and we saw but one vehicle for nigh on three hours. With few breaks in the heavy cloud, the views never opened up but there was still plenty of terrain to be seen in the midground.

Looking south towards the Tararuas.

We never saw more of the Ruahines, capped with thick gloom all day.

Waiting at the top of the climb, the girth of this macrocarpa impressed.

Not unpleasant.

One last climb for the day.

A quick snap of Apiti while barrelling down to the day’s end.

The Last Church – the accommodation was in the old Sunday school building at the rear, the bikes on pew warming duty overnight.

The china tea service was promptly found and put to good use, as the unloading of all the food we’d packed in began.

As great as the mix of history, large indoor palms, industrial plumbing fittings, books, umbrella lightshades, native bird depictions and various kiwiana were, the night will be remembered for the great company and the bewilderingly delicious and large meal assembled from everyone carting in various fresh items. That and the loud drum and bass hitting the building from across the field and what was probably the biggest party in all of Apiti for the year; somehow everyone slept well.

The catchphrase while preparing all this was “well, I’m not carrying it back”.

I certainly wasn’t going to let any go to waste, so reverting to a role familiar from a far off land six years ago I dutifully polished it off. I’ve got to do more bikepacking trips like this!

All Tour Aotearoa veterans (some multiple), and one the chief architect, much of the ride back on Sunday was familiar to us. Supposedly, I only vaguely remembered the route out of Apiti – I guess as it was the end of a long and spectacular day almost four years ago. Some variation was added by crossing to the true left of the Pohangina valley on a short stretch of road that is purported to have an average of seven vehicles per day – we saw one. Heading back to the flat lands of Palmerston North, we had a net altitude drop over the eighty kilometres – there was some modest climbing, but it was always followed by a bigger downhill.

A long sealed downhill heading for the bridge over the river.

Entry level, both to the housing market and if one wanted to get through the bushes.

Who were the people that lived and farmed here? Was there much of a community all those years ago? How long since anyone lived here, worked those discs?

With time up our sleeve, the short Kahikatea Walkway drew us in for a pleasant loop where we admired a rare patch of native bush in these parts and the namesake trees. There may have been renewed efforts to demolish a large, dense slab of gingery walnut and caramel goodness. No point in taking food back to the cars.

Back at the bikes, the southerly change came through and open heavens dumped rain on us for ten minutes – we were at least spared the hail that fell in town.

Having stumbled across the top of the old Branch Road on Saturday, the lower portion was worth briefly investigating – we didn’t see much, so will have to check it out properly another time.

With only twenty kilometres to go, the efforts to eat all the food stepped up with two more big stops. Bikes a wee bit lighter, we certainly were not for the damp, and then decidedly wet, ride into Palmerston North from the north. Is that trail ever enjoyable? With the big dog leg up to the highway, I’m unconvinced. Still, that can hardly dampen my thorough enjoyment of a relaxed biking weekend in rural Manawatu with excellent company, interesting riding, and I’ve probably said enough about the food already…