Category Archives: snow

family, GPS, NZ, snow

Mt Kyeburn – The Day I Finally Got Ski Touring?

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A day’s rest back in Naseby (well, OK, I did go for my first trail and longest-ever run – all of ten kilometres) involved pottering around, heading out to the Waipiata pub for lunch and firing up the hot tub. After that downtime, Adele was itching to take me ski-touring up nearby Mt Kyeburn.

Greeted with a well-frosty, clear morning we loaded up the Suzuki and headed up towards Mt Buster. Not doing a big loop on bikes this time, we drove further up the 4WD road and passed the first hut, climbing up to about 900 m. It hasn’t been a particularly snowy winter, so it was just as well it snowed a few days beforehand. While the tussock wasn’t completely covered, the track was and we could park up and start skinning under a blue sky.

A gentle gradient had us climb three hundred metres as the views over the Maniototo and surrounding hills unfurled behind us.

Not much snow looking south-east from where we parked.

Across the Maniototo to the Rock and Pillars.

A tad higher now, at least there is snow on the skin (4WD) track. Looking over to the western reaches of the Kakanui Mountains. I wonder if there is much bikepacking to be had up there…

The wind, strangely, dropped as we got higher and reached more exposed areas. Very pleasant indeed.

We followed these footprints all the way to Buster Diggings, until we finally met two photographers from Dunedin on a day trip. Mt Kyeburn, our destination, in the background.

The gradient leveled off to flat for the next three kilometres, which was easy going to Buster Diggings – once upon a time the highest gold mining area in the country. With the snow and frost on the tussock grass, and the varied colours and textures of the hills under a stunningly clear blue sky – it was an exceptionally gorgeous day, and a very pleasant temperature too.

Into Buster Diggings – a bit difficult to see the remnants of sluice mining when it’s covered in snow. Once again, Mt Kyeburn in the distance – this time from a different angle.

Soon after the diggings we rested and snacked at the tiny Buster Hut. Apparently James spent a rather frigid night in here last winter. Well insulated, it was not.

The ascent began again, gradually taking us higher and providing different views. Few parts were steep and the going was pleasant.

Looking west over the Ida Range; it looks a bit different to when we biked over it almost four years previously.

We looped around to complete the ascent from the north, only the last part to the summit getting steep enough to necessitate some thought of path-picking.

Made it, after about four hours (1636 m); finally proper windy as the Maniototo stretches west behind us.

Looking over to the Kakanuis from the summit.

There was just enough snow that we could get a pleasing number of turns in as we dropped off the summit, away from our skin track, before heading back to the track. Adele did a better job of avoiding dastardly rocks than I, but we both had a lot of fun. A brief walk up a slight rise and we were then hurtling down the track.

The track wasn’t really wide enough, and there was insufficient snow off-piste, that one just had to strike the right balance of keeping enough speed to get over any little rises, but not lose control on the variable surface. Such good fun riding out all the bumps at some speed.

Snow cover getting a bit variable, and the track being pretty rutted made for exciting and knee-flexing times.

Back down at the hut, the skins were back on again for the flat section. This didn’t dampen my spirits as we’d had such fun on the descent so far. Hot drinks from the Thermos probably helped too. Off the plateau, there was still enough snow to switch back to downhill mode and whoop and holler down to the car. Little patches of no snow around drainage ditches made for some interesting jumps and a few hundred metres from the car the rocks became too prominent so we hiked the last little bit.

An absolutely fantastic little adventure from Adele & James’s home. Definitely the most excitable I’ve been about ski-touring. Which is odd, as the snow was sufficient but not fantastic. I think the combination of a beautiful day, having a summit as the objective and the varied, expansive views of the browns of Central Otago contrasting with the snow, and spending time with favourite-sister culminated in a memorable outing. Bonus – my legs didn’t seem to hurt from this unusual amount of skiing either; running might be good for something.

family, food, friends, NZ, snow

A Birthday Trip – Finally

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After fifteen years of annual Birthday Trips (Adele and her friend Theresa share a birth date and have marked the occasion with various wilderness trips since the start of university), I finally made it along to one.

Otago is a long way to go for just a weekend, so I took a week off work and headed down for the Birthday Trip and other winter adventures. My first snow holiday in six and a half years – well overdue.

Meadow Hut out the back of the Snow Farm on the Pisa Range was booked out way back in February. Saturday morning, nineteen of us (including five intrepid children) left Snow Farm on the four kilometre route to the hut. Some of us were on touring skis with skins, others on skinnier skis and some on snowshoes. I assume due to differences in pace, we separated into two groups – skiers and snowshoers (which did have a couple of skiers along to help corral children).

The weather started to turn as we left and quickly deteriorated. Thankfully, we weren’t carrying heavy packs – most of our gear and food was coming in by snowmobile. The clouds rolled in and it started snowing, big wet heavy flakes. On the final stretch to the hut the wind funneled down the valley and the situation rather turned into a blizzard. The wind so strong and the snow so wet, every flake hitting one in the face elicited distinct pain.

Thankfully, the hut was not really that far away. We bundled in and got the fire going as we thawed out. Some hardier souls than I, and more experienced & useful, headed back out into the storm to help the families. Drama ensued due to the horrible conditions; children were bundled into backpacks and arrived in the hut rather quiet. The snowmobile was somehow rolled off the side of the trail, landing on the staff member’s head. He was OK. Those of us out there had to help right it, unpack the trailer, move all the luggage up the bank and reload it.

Eventually, all were safely in the hut and warming up. Finally there, a lovely afternoon and evening sheltering from the storm around the fire commenced. The beauty of the luggage being carted in for us was that we had hearty amounts of food and drink. Sharing numerous different curries, we ate well, chatted and played card games.

Most slept well, the storm blew out during the night, the snow groomer drove past at some horrendously early hour and woke us, and a bluebird day dawned. A lazy start to the day was spent breakfasting, packing and assembling for Sunday adventures. Those on snowshoes headed out to play in the snow; while those on skis also left to enjoy a bit of ski-touring further out on the Pisas.

With plenty of skinning up hills, we found some nice turns and fantastic views back over the Cardrona Valley. I enjoyed my first ski-touring in over seven years as exploring various routes over the hills, down into little valleys and eventually back to the route we’d skied in on the previous day. All made it back to the cars suitably spent.

A fun little trip with great people – excellent to finally make it on such a trip. For the actual birthday, we headed up to Treble Cone for a day of resort skiing. The snow was good, although the visibility worsened in the afternoon – we headed back to Naseby for birthday dinner.

Africa, around home, bikepacking, bikes, Canada, combe raiders, Europe, family, friends, London, MTB, national park, roadtrip, snow, travel, UK, USA

Five and a half years

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Well, my bike is packed up in its bag again, most of my possessions were collected yesterday for shipping back to New Zealand and, really, I’m a bit bored of packing. I leave London for NZ – five and a half years to the week after I left to see a little bit of the world – curious if I can settle back in a beautiful country far at the bottom of the globe. At the least, I should get a good summer of riding in. Over dinner with Trish at our favourite local Italian pizzeria the other night, there was plenty to reflect on – many excellent things, only two or three not so great happenings, all memorable.

So excuse me while I try to remember most of them and jot them down for posterity. Naturally I’ll start with the highlights in no particular order, as there are many.

As I delve into the archives, this is proving more difficult to narrow it down than I expected, …

My first port of call was the States – little did I know that would be the first of four visits and about six months in total in the country, it turns out the west is fantastic for scenery and mountain-biking.

A west-USA road-trip with plenty of mountain-biking was always a pipe-dream for when I was in my forties or fifties – thanks to living in Canada & the company of my aunt, Valerie, it became a reality much earlier.

The best biking holiday was my return to Moab last year – fantastic trails, great company & beautiful scenery – click on the photo above to watch the video Megan put together.

I also never intended to visit Africa four times, but somehow that happened. Each of the four safaris were quite different, but all excellent.

But the first one in the Masai Mara was the best.

Seeing the Pyramids on Christmas day was excellent – not very crowded either.

I only briefly went to Asia, on a visit to Turkey:


Gliding over the spectacular landscape of Cappadocia in a hot air balloon is indelibly in my memory.

Five weeks’ vacation almost five years ago in the Canadian Rockies saw me learn to ski, a bit, and then all of a sudden, living in Bow Valley for a year of mountain-biking in the summer and skiing in the winter.


Returning to the UK, I managed to settle into a job that I quite liked – that was, until the rather horrible drawn-out experience of plant closure & many redundancies. It was a good base for travels near & far while it lasted – the long, dry & hot summer of 2013 was especially good with many mountain-biking trips around the south-west. Always good to visit Taunton & also ride with my Somerset riding buddies, the Combe Raiders – whatever the weather.

That summer saw me enter a few biking events too – a six-hour solo (nice trail, but boring riding round & round the same thing for six hours), a couple of marathon events, & culminating in my first multi-day stage event.

That event, as you can probably tell from this photo taken while riding along, was in Africa.

Apart from the redundancy experience already mentioned, only two other notable low-points are worth bringing up. The mugging incident in San Diego the day after I left NZ is still the best if I ever have to tell one story from my travels. The ongoing shoulder dislocation saga was painful in a different way – but after four dislocations I had surgery and it’s been fine ever since.

With all the trips to North America & Africa, I perhaps didn’t see as much of Europe as I originally hoped. But I managed a fair few trips – with Italy being the most visited country, five times now I think. I also loved the time spent living in London wandering around all parts of the city & delving into the history. Due to the demise of work, my bikepacking tour of western Europe was brought forward to this year & shortened (& then shortened even more when I got sick of travelling alone in the August rain & mud).

Straddling the German-Belgian border somewhere.

One of the most pleasing & proud parts of the trip was crossing the Alps over Great Saint Bernard Pass – because my grandfather did the same on a bike sixty-five years ago.

Somehow I ended up spending four weeks living & working on a small vineyard in the north-west of Italy – eating a lot, hiking a bit, making new friends & thoroughly enjoying myself. Learning a second-language, Italian – thanks to work, was something I never thought I’d do – but it turned out I really enjoyed it.

Hiking near Monto Bianco.

Oh, almost forgot the whirlwind two-week trip back to NZ (the only one) for some friends’ wedding, and coincidentally my thirtieth birthday & many celebrations with friends & family all over the country. Hectic, but most enjoyable.

The visit also coincided with my shoulder being declared fit – so after six months of no biking, it was great to be active again – here skiing near Wanaka.

I’ll be back with these fine folks next week – hard to believe we’ll have our first Christmas all together since 2006.

That’ll do for unashamed self-indulgence – thanks to all the family & friends that made all this possible in many different ways (usually providing somewhere to sleep & plenty to eat). Biggest thanks goes to cousin Trish in London for repeatedly opening up her home to this often-vagabond – all this would not have been possible or lasted nearly as long otherwise.

bikes, friends, GPS, MTB, national park, snow, USA

Snow, Arches & Captain Ahab

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Waking up Wednesday morning, well before dawn it was pretty apparent it was a lot colder and the tent was sitting a little heavy. Sure enough, when the light came around there was a fair layer of snow on most things except the ground – from which it melted pretty quickly. Not overly keen to ride in the cold & snow, we finally got to Arches NP – not that I was overly fussed as I’d had a good visit there two years ago (I still haven’t got a better camera, oops) & the weather was warmer & sunnier.  I thought the others should at least see a little bit of it, so wasn’t too put out to be wandering around in the cool of the morning. Still we briefly enjoyed seeing the desert with a bit of snow on it, once we drove high enough, and wandering around a bit in the spring chill under various arches.

More interesting for the little bushes dusted with snow than catching Finn mid-step

There I am

The rest of the structure towering above me – I’m just visible

With a bit more driving & a little stroll, we saw Delicate Arch from the reverse angle to my last visit

Jackie had opted for the comforts of town over wandering around rocks – after a cafe lunch, stocking up on delicious gooey raspberry brownie (that proved a fantastic post-ride item earlier in the week – maybe after the mud ride), a quick trip back to camp to load bikes into my car, Megan & I were off to meet Jackie to ride Amasa Back & Captain Ahab in the still overcast, but slowly warming, afternoon.

Jeremy had been raving about Captain Ahab since well before I even got to Utah – & it was this recommendation that saw him reach the highest levels of our esteem.  Amasa Back is in the same area & is a Moab classic ride apparently (I’d never heard of it), so we decided to combine the two – which is completely achievable.  With a nice rocky downhill straight off the road, we crossed the only creek of the week (it was tiny) and were hit by a nice climb with, I think, some nice challenging step-ups even if the gradient wasn’t too steep.  I stalled on one particularly optimistic attempt – couldn’t move forward & close to losing balancing over backwards; a charitable push got me going again.

It should now be obvious why the new trail is named so

Even the climbs are enjoyable in this place

We continued along the wide rocky track past the beginning of Ahab & soon we were skirting around the top of Jackson Hole.  With large cliffs dropping all the way down to said hole, there was plenty to think about even if the trail wasn’t particularly hard – having said that, there was one really nasty rocky drop/descent that we all walked for quite a few metres.

That’s me & Jackie carefully riding around, & not into, Jackson Hole

That’s Jackson Butte sitting in Jackson Hole

It was a bit more climbing up to the lookout, which once again had us on top of a massive cliff overlooking the Colorado River valley.  We were all lying on the edge of the cliff looking down an awful long way – that was, until Jackie started talking about undercut cliff edges cut a little close to the bone & various fears of plummeting to doom.  I’m not sure what happened, perhaps a whole week’s worth of excitement reached some sort of zenith as we took in the vast views, cliffs, rocks and celebrated so much excellent riding; whatever it was, general frivolity & hilarity ensued as we had much to be excited about (apparently Bieber can speak French).

A summit shot for the bikes (Moab is just behind that ridge)

and the bikers

For such incredible views and vastness, I have disappointingly few photos – there’s the Colorado yet again

Not knowing much about it, except it was there, we decided there was enough time to head out on the Pothole Arch singletrack to close to the end of the mesa (or whatever it was).  Unfortunately, it was perhaps the worst marked trail we’d seen all week – eventually we found the faint red line to follow.  The riding was fun, even if we were going down too much & would need to climb back to the main trail – but the red line just sort of stopped and we weren’t too sure if we even found Pothole Arch.  But there was enough time to tape (the most use my first aid kit had all week, mercifully) up Jackie’s brake hose away from the rear spoke, again, and turn to head back to Ahab.

When Jeremy first mentioned Ahab, I looked it up online & thought it was a bit big for me – I’m not one to wear body armour or go on trails that need such excesses.  This sign didn’t really help, but Jeremy had assured it us that it was no harder than Porcupine Rim.  There was a fair bit of riding around the top of more exposed cliffs, and maybe more climbing than we expected – but we were well used to all that by that stage of the trip, so it wasn’t too bad.

There were some nice little drops to ride

In the sun – we spent a fair bit of the ride wondering if the dark clouds to the east & the west were going to rain, or even snow, on our merry ride

Every so often one feels obliged to stop & look at the view/rest.

The whole trail was most fun and is extremely well designed & built.  I can’t remember too many details, but there were some steep little descents and pinch climbs – all the descents were rollable, I think, one just had to have the confidence (& skill I suppose, as the sign suggests) to do so.  I remember only one obstacle that I couldn’t clear –  a series of three consecutive ~foot-high step-ups, on which Jackie tried her best to acquaint herself with her steerer tube & then saw stars briefly.

For the final mile to two kilometres of the trail before it rejoined the main track back down, there was a sudden & marked change in the riding.  Most importantly, from a self-preservation side of things – we were back right on the top of a very large cliff; the difference this time being that we were riding downhill and therefore much faster, if anything should go pear-shaped it would be a very large pear-shaped thing indeed.  Also, the trail got quite a bit smoother and was just good fun – even if the sign warning that precise bike skills were needed on one really exposed corner was a little worrying.

Yes, that’s a fall to certain extinction a metre to Jackie’s right

All too soon, we were barrelling down the big wide trail back to the stream, grunting up the last little bit to the road and celebrating  with beers & brownie a successful ride (on a day that started so snowy too) that easily ranked as high as the blast I’d had on Porcupine Rim a few days prior for best ride of the trip.  Somehow we managed to persuade ourselves that we deserved a second large Mexican meal in as many dinners – I think we were right.

This is worth watching if you’re interested in trail-building or just riding: