Category Archives: travel

bikes, GPS, MTB, national park, roadtrip, travel, USA

Crater Lake National Park & first Bend ride

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Back on the national park trail we left Medford & headed north towards Crater Lake. Driving through a few small towns there were a few extra flags out lining the main streets & many firework stalls as well – as you’d expect on July 4. More scenic driving continued along rivers (the Rogue – another great name) & beside forests – a brief interlude was stopping to see a natural bridge. This one was a little different to the ones we had grown used to in Utah – made out of an old lava tube. The outer of the flowing lava cooled & solidified while the molten lava kept flowing, leaving a tube that the river now runs through since the lava has long since stopped running. With the river running so high, the river didn’t disappear completely (all that water couldn’t fit down the tube) – but you could see where the water was coming out of the tube with quite some force. A different interesting little diversion.

River exiting the tube

Ordinarily, the river would flow completely underground here

We hit the snow line at about 1500m as we continued towards Crater Lake. It got thicker & thicker & at the Visitor Center, it was two to three metres high in parts. With an above average 16m of snowfall last winter & a late spring, it was still very white & only one hiking trail was open (& that only for the long weekend). Crater Lake is actually in a caldera of an old volacano that collapsed on itself. I was expecting the lake to be beautiful, but this was something else – perhaps the most jaw-droppingly amazing thing we’ve seen yet on our little drive. With water only entering the lake as rain or snow & no rivers or streams exiting the caldera, the water is brilliantly blue. With the shelter of the caldera rim as well, there was no wind to cause even a ripple on the surface. Add to that the clear sunny day & the snow around the rim – the sum was something fantastic. Here are a few pictures – more here.

With a bit more driving on Valerie’s part we eventually got to Bend late afternoon. After settling in to the motel, I couldn’t resist getting straight out & hitting a trail in what is one of the top MTB towns in the States. As it was getting late & there were fireworks to go to later, I found the Mrazek trail on Garmin Connect. It was close to town & as an out-and-back I could make it last as long as I wanted – fitted the bill nicely.

It was a great introduction & a lot of fun. Mostly a (very) gentle climb on a nice wide dirt trail (bit of a shock to be back riding in dust after the previous snowy rides!). There was one section that had a few switchbacks that were markedly steeper & there were some technical rocky step-ups to negotiate; but I dug deep into the recesses of my riding brain & remembered all I’d learnt in Colorado & Utah & cleared them all. I continued steaming up the trail in a high gear until I figured I had better turn around at seven o’clock.

As I expected all the way up, going down was neat. I don’t think I realised how twisty it was as I was climbing, but I quickly found that I couldn’t go as fast as I’d imagined I would. Still, not having to pedal as much is always good; although I did spend quite a bit of time in the big chainring – it’s not often that happens for me on singletrack. My short little evening ride turned out to be 24km – but it didn’t take long, so there was enough time to get home, shower, grab a meal & then find a good place to watch the July 4 fireworks.

Launched from a small hill just east of the center of town, the show didn’t start until ten o’clock. After a rather monotonous first five minutes (it wasn’t bad, just all the same sort of firework), a bit of variety was finally introduced & it turned out to be a really good display. At over twenty minutes, it was also quite long for a Bend-sized town. Finishing with a flourish it was well worth having headed out to see them – plus we got to sift around various street parties with fireworks going off all over the place.

roadtrip, travel, USA

Into Oregon!

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Somehow, we ended up spending twenty-five consecutive nights in California.  That was rather unintentional – but I suppose California is just so much more populated than the previous states we’d been through & so in some cases there is more to see & do.  Our day today was rather uneventful, after a late start after watching the Wimbledon final & me finishing another Poirot (I finally picked one early – Peril at End House) we hit the road north.  Driving up the coast there were the usual alternating periods of brilliant warm sunshine & really dense fog as the road was either almost in the Pacific or just back a little in the hills.  We saw some curiously named places today – we went to Samoa (didn’t know you could drive there, did you?), Trinidad (or there), Crescent City (I suppose it’s better than Spanner City or Wrench City) & in Oregon – Wonder.

Just north of Crescent City the road left the coast & headed through many more acres of forest towards Grant Pass & the Oregon border. I was still loving the beauty of the large NorCal virgin forests & most of the road followed & crossed the Middle Fork, Smith River (the most boring place name of the day). A much smaller & less wild river than we’ve seem for some time, with its deep green colour & small falls it was stunning under a clear sky. (Speaking of rivers, it turns out that the day we went to Yosemite was the second highest day for water flow all season [a week after the highest]. We definitely lucked out there!) We had a very pleasant lunch by a calm part of the river.

It was quite a thrill to be going to a state that I’d never been to before for the first time since our one hour in New Mexico at the end of May. Over the border there was the obligatory “let’s put as many signs up as possible to explain our unique road rules” fever. Strangely, the double yellow lines seem to be a foot apart. It was as I expected – more trees! But they were subtlety different – not quite as tall & some plantation ones too. So far I’m loving Oregon – there’s no sales tax(!); the middle grade of gas is better (higher octane) than the premium gas in all the other states we’ve visited; the window brushes at the gas station actually have proper length handles (not twelve inches); you don’t have to prepay gas; & they have to pump your gas for you. Can you tell we filled up tonight? Plus, the riding here is also supposed to be brilliant.

Tomorrow we head for Crater Lake National Park – deepest lake in the country – & then to Bend to see some July 4 fireworks.

bikes, GPS, MTB, roadtrip, travel, USA

Paradise Royale

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Initial investigations led me to believe this ride was near Arcata, just north of Eureka.  It turned out it was a long way south – almost two hours’ drive (back past the Avenue of the Giants & then some really twisty roads striking towards the coast). But as Eureka was very cloudy & generally bleh, there wasn’t much to be lost by taking a day trip south.

The trail, near the Lost Coast (quite isolated for Californian coastline) is about five years old & it took me a couple of hours to ride the 18km. You can see the effort that went in to constructing it – it’s beautifully built for mountain-biking (pleasing to see the bikers have right of way for a change). The trail was in great condition, I’m not sure it would need a lot of maintenance as it’s so well built – but I imagine the fallen leaves (covered most of the trail) are trouble when they are wet. Also interestingly, at a couple of the stream crossings you are instructed to use the stepping stones as walking on the gravel bed disturbs the young endangered salmon.

Back to the ride itself – starting from the new trailhead it was pretty level for a while before passing the bottom of a recently constructed terrain park (looks fun, but I didn’t want to keep Valerie waiting longer). There’s a nice 150m vertical descent before the first stream crossing. From there it’s an almost uninterrupted (there is a brief respite two-thirds of the way up) 400m vertical gain. This is mostly pretty good, but stubbornly trying to stay in the middle ring all the way up wasn’t a great idea. Eventually I got to one bit that was too much for my legs, so I had to succumb to the granny ring for a few minutes. Most of this is all in thick forest & with all the switchbacks it was never too warm. As the trail levels briefly there are some small grass clearings, but never enough for a view.

The trail maxed out at about 760m above sea level before starting an excellent downhill. Most of the whole loop is pretty wide & this was no exception – wide & fast. There were plenty of little trail features that you could get nice air off & they all had really nice landings. Eventually there were a couple of places where you could finally see out to the Pacific – this wasn’t one of the most photogenic of my USA rides. The downhill continued nicely before slowly levelling out to 460m & the final stream crossing & climb back to the car. A really good ride all up, but you definitely earn that fun downhill – a bit of pity it’s so far out of the way (there is a campsite near the top of the terrain park).

After I’d cooled down, eaten & packed up we continued out to the coast to look at Shelter Cove. There were a lot of kitted-out hikers in the parking lot – turns out it’s one end of the Lost Coast walk (three days mostly along the coast). I got excited when I saw the black beach from a distance – but it wasn’t ironsand, just grey pebbles. Swimming was actively discouraged due to the surf – some really nasty looking waves that just dump instantly a couple of metres from the edge. That & the rogue waves that occasionally further up the beach & sweep bystanders away.

national park, roadtrip, travel, USA, vehicles

Redwoods

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Leaving Sacramento on another fine day, we headed north on the Five through many miles of cropping land – even saw quite a bit of rice, which was surprising. Getting off the interstate & driving west we were quickly up in the hills & going past Clearlake. There was still quite a bit more time at the wheel before getting to the Redwood Highway. I must have been getting tired as I drove straight in to a really big tree. It was just as well that we came out the other side relatively unscathed.

As we approached this tree that you could drive through, a bit of a queue was forming as some complete muppet was trying to get a big Dodge Ram (that’s a very large pickup) through the hole. He was pretty stuck & holding everyone up. Somehow, I think with quite a bit of panel compression, he eventually got out the other side & everyone else could stop laughing & drive through. Most amazingly, that tree with the big tunnel through it is still growing strongly – incredible trees.

Further north we dived off the 101 & took the much more scenic Avenue of the Giants (the old 101). There were plenty of opportunities to stop & wander around various groves of the Californian Redwoods – well, those groves that remain after extensive logging in the late 1800s & early 1900s. Having grown up near & spent so much time hiking & biking around the Redwood Grove in Rotorua, NZ, this was really special to see the originals in their natural environment so close to the coast. (The Rotorua ones were planted during the Great Depression, along with many other species, to see what grew well in the area. That grove is still doing well & a very pleasant place to stroll or ride – some of the best trailpark riding in NZ is close by.) Able to grow well over 100m tall & for a couple or three thousand years – these are definitely the tallest living things on earth. To see so many of them was just fantastic. As I mentioned before, they can still continue to grow well despite scarring, holes & hollows in the base of the trunk. It was a little weird standing in the center of the base of a still living hundred metre tall tree.

Needless to say we spend a lot of time wandering around with crooked necks & jaws dropped. It was so nice & cool down on the ground & quite dark too. With light poking through the canopy & my snapshot-only photo ability, it’s rather difficult to get the proper impression of just how tall these trees are. But here’s a few token pictures to satisfy those who can’t abide all my words (not that such people are still reading).

A fallen giant – as the wood decomposes so slowly, dead trees can stick around for hundreds of years providing shelter for all sorts of plants & animals.

For some reason I’d decided on three nights in Eureka – which is not really all that big of a town. It had clouded over nicely by the time we arrived & the wind had picked up making it hardly attractive. Still we have a room & the historic downtown which I discovered this afternoon is quite nice (although with a strange lack of red, white & blue for the upcoming holiday weekend). Today we had a pretty lazy day, driving north to Redwood National & State Parks. I was feeling rather lethargic (I think excusable after two months on the road), so didn’t go for a ride (it would have mostly ended up being on the road). We walked through a few more groves (the Lady Bird Johnson Grove was particularly good) & marvelled at the magnificent trees a bit more.

(Because these trees are so old & so weathered being near the coast, their bark is grey-brown. If you want to see red Redwoods – go to Rotorua.

Taken for the meadow – not any Redwoods