Category Archives: USA

Multnomah Falls & Surveyor’s Ridge

It was a nice treat to be able to sleep with the window open for a change, have a cool breeze blowing in & wake to the sound to rain falling outside. It cleared a little as we drove east again towards Hood River. Right off the side of I-84 twenty or so miles down the road are Multnomah Falls. We had to stop & check them out as the super-friendly Brandon at the Pheasant Café had raved about them a few days earlier. It drizzled a little as we checked them out, but it was hard to tell if that was precipitation or spray from the falls. A thin ribbon of a waterfall, the total height is almost seven hundred feet. Fed by a spring they’re some of the tallest year-round falls in the country – but lacked the impact of the snowmelt-swollen behemoths in Yosemite.

We met Miles again just out of Hood River & organized the afternoon’s ride. A fall in shallow water while kiting the day before had left Miles with a badly sprained ring finger & a extremely swollen hand – he wasn’t so keen on riding downhill, but still wanted to get out for a ride. We chose to go up the Dog River Trail (so looking forward to watching the final series of Corner Gas when I have time next month) & I would ride Surveyor’s Ridge while Miles rode the boring road back down. Dog River proved to be as much as we expected – really nice singletrack through beautiful forest that was one big climb. It was pretty tiring, but we kept a good pace & I think I only had to walk briefly twice; all up we climbed almost 700m in ten kilometres (about 2000 ft in six miles). Steady going & overcast conditions were in our favour, although the little drizzle was nice it did make things humid.

Miles left me at the top & I continued to complete the loop by riding Surveyor’s Ridge. As the name suggests, it was typical ridge riding – up & down & up & down, never really getting too far away from 1300m. This ride is reputed for giving occasional windows of views towards Mt Hood. But that cooling cloud was also covering the mountain, so I never really saw that much except a little of the lower snow. I turned off to ride down to the Oak Ridge trailhead. What fun it was – really fast & smooth. About halfway down I was starting to think that it was almost as good as Downieville & then it turned in to a lot of switchbacks. Out of the pine forest these got more severe & I was getting a bit sick of constantly braking & turning. I’ve since been told that it’s better not to turn down to Oak Ridge, but instead continue along the ridge trail to the big powerlines & come down from there. Never mind, it was a great 35 km ride & excellent to put a few hours together on the bike.

Along the ridge there would suddenly be random large piles of rocks amongst the trees

The many flowers (blue, pink & white as well) were prettier than the obscured Mt Hood

Portland

We drove the extra fifty miles west to the outskirts of Portland last night as it was much more affordable to stay here than in Hood River. So with no riding planned today, we were free to explore the city a bit. Supposedley one of the greenest cities in the States with all its public transportation – we had to take the light rail in. It was pretty cheap (less than five dollars for an all-zone day pass), but gosh it seemed slow. Eventually we were deposited downtown & with good instructions from some loud-voiced (according to Valerie, at least) guy at the Visitor Center we set off walking to find the streetcar (trolley). With a brief stop at Powell’s (claiming to be the largest new & used bookstore in the world) second store, I then wandered in to the main store. This one takes up a whole block & four storeys – once I read that we had to runaway (“Runaway! Runaway!”) or else the whole day would have been wasted. It was a very pleasant walk around Nob Hill & all the nice old houses before we wandered up the hill to Washington Park. After a sobering time at the simple, poignant & effective Oregon Holocaust Memorial it was a short walk up to the International Rose Test Garden. Portland, as the Rose City, does have a mighty impressive lot of roses. Never have I seen a rose garden so large & so well visited – there were people everywhere. Another very nice place to sit down & eat our wraps for lunch.

A bit more wandering, riding the streetcars, checking out the riverside (they sure like bridges here – there were well too many crossing the river) & we ended up looking up at Portlandia. She’s the second biggest statue (of the kind) in the country.

She’s also up on the second or third floor, so bigger than she looks here.

We were exhausted from pounding all those pavements (‘sidewalks’ isn’t quite as alliterative) & the Max train was packed most of the way back out east. We had our usual dose of crazies on American public transport & a rather disturbing whitetrash domestic.

Hood River

With as many as fourteen dams on the length of the Columbia, it is now a surprisingly wide river. Just how wide, we begun to comprehend as we drove downstream towards Hood River yesterday. I do wonder just what it was like untamed when Lewis & Clark went down it & then later in Oregon Trail times. We were aiming to meet Miles – who was out kite-surfing with his brother – after lunch to go for a ride. That the Columbia is a good place for kiting & windsurfing was obvious as we saw an extensive windfarm nearby.

Yes, another poor picture taken from the passenger seat.

We weren’t too long in getting to Hood River & we ended up finding a lot of kites. As I’ve said time & time again on this trip – the river is very high this year. Consequently, the usual staging area & beach is well under water so everything was much closer to the parking lot. We happened upon the last of three days’ worth of kiting for cancer-research fundraising – so there was a good atmosphere around & over sixty kites out on the water. It was neat to watch a sport that I know little about & looks like great fun – the air that some of the boarders were getting was incredible. I’m not sure I’d ever be able to overcome the fear of a big gust of wind pulling my shoulder to pieces again.

While we waited, we sifted around town a bit looking in bookshops & eating pie (still not too sure what a marionberry is – but it tasted good). Eventually, we met up with Miles, crossed the river to Washington & went & met his brother Alan & Alan’s family. As time was limited for Alan, we went out on a short ride from their lot up in the hills. Starting with a little road-riding, it wasn’t long before we were in the forest. We basically climbed 350m on fireroads to get to the start of the singletrack down. The first section was absolutely sweet. Super dark in the dense forest (therefore, no dust this time) & a nice twisty, but flowy, trail that was super smooth to ride. Unfortunately, the middle section had been logged since the last time Alan & Miles had ridden it – so that was more boring. With an even twistier bit of singletrack to finish off, we were soon back at the trailer. Nice to get out & stretch the legs on a ride that wasn’t super long.

Mt Hood, the tallest mountain in Oregon, had been popping in & out of view all day – usually with an annoying cap of cloud sitting around. It’s really nice to see the mountain rising out of the lowlands – so here’s a snapshot.


Following (a bit of) the Oregon Trail

Regrettably, as with a roadtrip, we had to leave Boise yesterday.  Maybe we caught it in its best light, but we really enjoyed our brief visit to Idaho & its capital. We were aiming towards Hood River – which is on the Columbia River – in central north Oregon, but didn’t want to do all the drive in one day so just pottered along.  Along the freeway we saw much more cropping, an old tumbledown cement factory at Lime, a still-operating cement factory (only one kiln though) just down the road & the return of the big trains.  We popped into Baker City, a town that had taken great delight in proclaiming from most Main St windows that some publication had voted it the most beautiful small town of America in a Best of the Road competition.

It was pretty nice & we spent a little while wandering the main street, reading plaques, looking in buildings & just enjoying the sunshine. There was also a big leafy park just down the road where we had another relaxing lunch. Further down the freeway & a bit east was the National Oregon Trail Interpretive Center – with time up our sleeves, it was well worth a look. Being the national center, it was far & away the most comprehensive display that we have seen yet on that mass-migration – we easily spent a couple of hours there reading & listening & pondering the hardship of the months endured & the landscape encountered (bits of which we’ve seen from the comfort of the car).

We’re clearly getting on in the trip as we opted for the nice easy route down I-84 instead of backroads through the hills. But there were still the Blue Mountains to get over (glad I wasn’t walking beside a wagon) before descending to the Columbia River plateau. It was clear we were back near a big river as more & more irrigation & nice looking fields popped up. Hermiston was a little off the freeway & a bit of a nothing town from what we could see (although it did have a gigantic WalMart distribution center on the outskirts – that must count for something), but it was a convenient place to rest for the evening. With a quick trip down to & across the Columbia River (quite a while since I last crossed that in Revelstoke, BC) we were in Washington – our third state for the day. The river is of course really high & we were impressed by the volume (in both senses) of the water pouring through the spillways at McNary dam.

Back in Hermiston, we struggled to find anywhere to eat dinner. But we struck a jackpot when we came across the Pheasant Cafe. Apparently more of a dance/clubbing venue later in the evening (it was a large complex), the restaurant was empty when we went in & the only guy working it was rather spookily named Brandon! He was super friendly & really interested in where we’ve come from (particularly Australia) & he cooked a mean prime rib.