Category Archives: USA

Back to Canmore – Roadtrip Complete

To finish off the three months of driving I decided to drive all the way back from Vancouver to Canmore in the middle of the long weekend. The logic there being that Jasper would be a zoo on a sunny holiday weekend & I’d be better off checking it out a little later when there were less people around.

So Saturday morning I set off on a wonderfully sunny drive east across BC. The traffic was pretty good & BC was beautifully forested – it really is a large province when you drive across the bottom in one day. After Kamloops I was back on roads I’d driven before & there was a half-hour wait near Shuswap – but I had the Kindle out so I wasn’t too fussed. Over Rogers Pass & coming into Golden there was an ominous big cloud of black smoke billowing into the sky. I was near the front of a queue for almost an hour as some poor family watched their RV incinerate. The rest of the drive was uneventful & I was soon driving below familiar peaks – just they had a lot less snow (almost none) on them than I remember. It was a little odd getting closer to Canmore – being away for three months & doing so many other things must have lessened the blow of leaving such a great place as I wasn’t too concerned that I’ll be gone in three weeks.

So that was it really, just under 22000 km, 87 days, 13 states, two provinces, 45 MTB rides totalling a thousand kilometres, at least 15 National Parks & 5 National Monuments, only 2600 photos & 435 gallons of gas. What a great trip! We were blessed by the weather – notably it never got really hot, as it did the last time I visited Utah, Nevada, Arizona & California in 2009.  Highlights are hard to list as there were so many. But I’ll try anyway:

A separate list for the riding highlights, which is even harder as I rode so much quality singletrack.

That’s that – thanks again Valerie for coming along for the ride & sharing the experience (& financing a lot of it too!).  I’m in Canmore until mid-August before flying back to London to catch the last of the English summer.  Mum’s coming across to England for the last few months of the year, so it’ll be great to see her & plenty of other friends & family in the UK.  From then on, I only have vague ideas as to what I’m going to do with myself… But riding better figure in there somehow.

Boeing Factory

One of the few things I knew about Seattle before visiting was that the world’s largest volume building (13.4 million cubic metres on a 40 hectare footprint) was around. That alone was enough to go & visit the Boeing assembly plant, but with my interest in manufacturing it was a must – plus planes are just cool. Unsurprisingly, no cameras are allowed on the tour so you’ll just have to believe me that it is a big facility. We saw the assembly lines for the 747, 777 & 787 Dreamliner from high up above the floor. Naturally there were a whole lot of workstations, but being a Saturday backshift there wasn’t a lot of activity. The group wasn’t too big & the guide very informative – & clearly loving her job. Back at the Visitor Center it was great to get outside, enjoy the sun & watch a couple of WWII warbirds fly past twice. There was easily a few billion dollars of planes sitting around too.

A 747 tail

Traveling north we made another brief detour to Burlington (finally found the B in BNSF) to hunt down a dog-bone for my bike – they didn’t have one but I ended up with a pannier brace to hopefully do the job. With thirteen states, seventy-nine days & over 20000 km (12500 miles) of driving, almost 1000 km of mountain-biking over 80 hours we left the States & they let us back in to Canada. What a fantastic time we’ve had & every day we still see little things around that remind us just how much we’ve seen around the west-USA.  Not to mention all the fantastic riding I’ve done in some really great places.  If I was ever back for any length of time I think I’d spend a lot of time riding in Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho & Oregon.

We eventually met Karin near a beach (it was the first sunny day in Vancouver in months) to grab the keys to let ourselves in to her & Adam’s apartment. Very blessed to be staying in a home for a while, for the second time in the trip & also within a week.

Seattle

For a city know for its rain & only having two seasons, winter & August, we were lucky to have an absolutely stunning day on Friday exploring what is a very nice city in the sun (but then most are). After much frustration with the metro’s awful website, Google Maps told me what I wanted to know simply & we headed downtown after a much needed sleep-in. First stop was the Underground Tour, which came highly recommended from Karin. The tour was insanely popular, but very well run, informative & most amusing. When Seattle was built originally it was in the intertidal zone & twice-daily flooding was a bit of a problem. Not to mention the smelly waste-disposal problem – sewage tended to come back in with the tide. Like all good American cities it seems, Seattle had a big fire in its history which went a good way to wiping out the whole city.

For the rebuilding phase the engineers wanted to take a long time to raise up the height of the city. However, the building owners didn’t wait so rebuilding started almost immediately. Eventually the City put huge retaining walls along the perimeter of 33 blocks worth of the city. These were then filled with whatever they could find & so the street was now up on the second story, while the sidewalk was still down on the first floor. Eventually a new sidewalk was built bridging the gap between the street & the building, leaving a underground network of tunnels where the old sidewalk used to be – this was what we toured through seeing all manner of relics. Well worth the time & money to get that interesting insight in to the city’s history.

The coil of the first electric elevator in Seattle & other paraphernalia.

The ferry to Bainbridge Island was a good way to get out on the harbour & enjoy the sun & good views of the city. So we spent a few hours riding out to the island, poking around & tripping back.

We strolled over to the famous Pike Place markets, saw people throwing fish around to order & wandered out. Valerie had decided some time ago that she wanted to buy me a Stetson in the States (I could hardly refuse such an offer) & as this was our last chance we eventually found the shop we were looking for. With me having no fashion sense, it was a long deliberation before I ended up with a grey fedora – which I hopefully will find occasion to wear a bit. That night we managed to tick off a very slight desire to eat at the Cheesecake Factory. It was crazy busy on a Friday night, but we had a nice meal & the cheesecake was very good & not too intense.

Lewis River Trail

Crossing in to the final state of our trip, Washington, it proceeded to get more & more grey as misty clouds descended down the hills as we drove northeast towards Mt St Helens.  Washington, well this part anyway, was a bit more down in the tooth than any parts of the country we’d been through in a while – just older, less maintained houses with plenty of rusting pickups lying around.  My great idea of a ride was looking more & more damp as we pulled in to the Forestry Service HQ – their webcam of the volcano was just a screen of grey.

The road continued east along the top edge of Swift Reservoir before crossing the Lewis River just as it entered the lake.

Closer inspection of the GPS trail showed that I could cut the 33 km loop in half by getting Valerie to shuttle me up the road to the Lower Falls.  We lunched in the very dark & tree-lined parking lot before heading out to check out the falls.  Once again, the river was high & the falls were interesting as the drop curved around to be mostly parallel with the overall flow of the water.

Still rather chilly, I had to put on all my long-sleeved riding clothes before heading down the trail.  The river only had a gentle drop along the length I was riding & it didn’t really feel like I did an overly large amount of downhill.  In fact, there was quite a bit of climbing amongst all the moss, trees & ferns.  It was nice to have decent bridges that didn’t require dismounting, although some were a little slippery in the damp.  Annoyingly, the dogbone on my bike snapped early on so I had to do most of the ride with my bottom bracket (& therefore, pedals) floating around.  [This part has been quite difficult to find a replacement for, I may have a bodge job that will do the trick for Canada.]  There were occasional pretty glimpses of the river & creeks flowing in to it.  The short pinch climbs kept coming, but I was soon meeting Valerie at the pick-up point.

This bridge wasn’t so great, showing the signs of such a damp climate.

It was very well-timed on our part that the road along the east side of the mountain was opened the day before our visit.  We got a few glimpses of Mt St Helens & the reemerging forest along the drive in to Seattle.