Category Archives: vehicles

Wall Drug & Badlands

With the weather still uninspiring, actually downright dreary, we reversed our intended loop & headed for the South Dakota Air & Space Museum. That would have been worth of pinning a tail on if most of the planes hadn’t been outside. Next door to Ellsworth Air Force Base, there was a very interesting exhibit on the Berlin Airlift there – SD seems proud of the role they played in it as half of the B29s came from Ellsworth. The museum was OK, in fact it was pretty good considering it was free. Outside in the rain there were plenty of planes. The best examples were the B-29 Superfortress & the B1-B. Despite getting damp & cold, it was neat that none of the planes were roped off, so you could wander right under them & have a good look – well, as good a look you could get before getting sick of the rain. Like all good air force museums there was a Huey – this always amuses me as the RNZAF is still flying these.

The signs to Wall Drug Store had started some hundreds of miles away in Billings, MT, & now they were increasing in regularity alongside I-90. Apparently the signs to this tourist attraction start even further east of Wall than they do west. The signs are now a bit of an institution & they sure do liven up the side of the interstate, after fifty miles I couldn’t wait to see what was there. I may have heard of this phenomenon somewhere, possible from one of Bill Bryson’s wonderful books, as the anticipation that was building seemed to be what should have been happening. From one drug store in the ‘30s, Wall Drug is now its own little mall of more than twenty stores (western wear, outdoor gear, jewelry, books, a huge café, shooting galleries & so on). There was quite a bit of local history displayed around the place – especially in delightfully pointless dead-end corridors. Although much of the wares were tat, we spent a good while there out of the rain – I was especially amused by the large T-Rex head that would come to life every twelve minutes at very high volume & send toddlers into hysterics.

On a side note of strange things you see on the back of semis on the interstate – how’s this for the dinkiest & most mobile bucket wheel you’ve ever seen?

We took a slight detour to go & check out a Minuteman site. This one was decommissioned, which is hardly a shock – there’s not much chance of tourist wandering in & checking out a live ICBM (inter-continental ballistic missile) underground site. There wasn’t a lot to see (a deep hole in the ground with a missile body in it), but at least we didn’t get shot for entering through the gate.

Finally, we made it to the national park of the day – Badlands. Driving across the prairie grassland, I had some idea what to expect having been to the Canadian Badlands a few months ago. But not covered in snow, these were so much more beautiful with the ground just disappearing from the edge of the grassland all of a sudden where it has eroded over many years. In many places it was easy to identify numerous different strata.

First the drive through was above the spectacle, then we dropped down & drove through the bottom for a while before rising again to follow the north rim. There were some quite pointy spires just sticking up from the top of various buttes. The sights would be even more spectacular in decent light or a clear twilight; alas, these are the only photos I have to show you.

In other exciting news, as we got back close to Rapid City it stopped raining! The sun even made an appearance this evening, so hopefully there is less dodging precipitation tomorrow. That ends the first week of the trip, it’s rained, it’s snowed, we’ve done a shade over three-thousand kilometers & three states & one province (plus four National Parks). I’m still undecided whether having company, not having to eat at restaurants alone, having someone to talk to or share companionable silence with (something I’m good at) is better or not than independence, doing what you want when you want, not waiting or have someone waiting for you & being forced to talk to strangers more. Time will tell I suppose.

They let us in!

It didn’t dawn much brighter in Waterton Lakes on Friday, unfortunately.  That place must look stunning in the summer.

Heading out looking for a small hike, we met Dan driving the other way on the Red Rock Parkway.  Valerie was not amused by his warnings to watch for bears – “we’ve got a grizzly in a trap up in the campground, but the campground is closed; watch for others – they’re waking up & they’re hungry”.


In the end, we didn’t get much of a hike in as everything was still covered in snow, & quite deeply too.

Consequently, we started our run to the border.  In the town of Carsford we got distracted by a large carriage museum.  We were told that it’s the second largest collection of carriages in the world – the biggest is in Lisbon.  It sure seemed big – I’ve never seen so many bleeding aerials, I mean carriages; there were all sorts: working wagons, cabooses, sleighs, society, fire engines, dump wagons, chuck wagons, stage coaches, sulkies & more I can’t remember the name of.

The history was fascinating – especially as a lot of it related to the settlement & pioneering of the West.  I resisted the chance for a photo in the carriage Jackie Chan used in Shanghai Noon (it was comparatively boring).  There was a restoration workshop attached & one of the old guys who worked there (reminds me of the Kauri Museum north of Auckland) delighted in showing me how they make those big wagon wheels.

A contrast showing restoration work improvement (of the carriage, I haven’t had any restoration work done).

Lunch done with, it was a short hop to the 49th Parallel & the border crossing.  We did rather a lot better than the couple before who were turned around & with no hassles we filled our forms out & paid our six dollars & we were in Montana.  I had hoped to have a look around Glacier National Park, but it was just more frozen lakes & I’ve been seeing them all winter so we continued south.  The Road to the Sun, when it opens for summer, sounds amazing.  Highway 89 continued south through stunted & sparse forest climbing & winding up & through some of the largest snow banks I’ve seen all winter.  There was a noticeable change in prosperity from Alberta – it seemed that to live in NW Montana you had to have a hodgepodge of trailers littered with at least half a dozen old cars & pickups in various states of disrepair.

Gassed up (somehow managed to have someone else pay for a few gallons) we decided to push on to Helena for the night.  As we left it, we realized we’d been in a reservation & once out of it, the farmland started to look more intensive.  I was surprised to see a lot of irrigators, particularly large centre pivots.  We definitely were in the Big Sky State as we chewed up the miles (yes, I’ve had to start reading the inside dial on the speedometer).

Just before the Interstate (I-15) we went through a neat canyon, with the sun shining on the foreground & an ominous black clouding the horizon it was spectacular.

I think I’m on to my tenth state now & I’m pretty sure Helena is the first state capital I’ve been to.  We haven’t seen much so far except the inside of a motel room & a diner.  Hopefully we can have a little look around this morning before pushing on towards Yellowstone.  The diner last night was very much a Ma & Pa operation – it was packed & the food was simple with large portions.  To borrow a unit from Megan, flaginess was at a very high level – you couldn’t find a square metre of wall without some representation of red, white & blue (& those colours weren’t arranged in the way of the rather boring New Zealand flag).

On a side note, Montana has some great county names:  Fergus, Petroleum, Musselshell, Carbon, Treasure, Lewis & Clark, Rosebud (my ol’ son), Sweet Grass, & Beaverhead are noteworthy.

Distance Traveled: 492 km
Gas Price: 377.9
Best Meal: Finger Steaks (turned out to be wiener schnitzel)

I sat on my car & it broke

Another pleasant full day at Sunshine on Saturday with Joel, Kristy & Anya.  There was no fresh snow, but the base is still getting bigger – apparently it’s spring, but the snow just keeps coming.  We had the morning up the top, before a leisurely lunch (I had a burger with pineapple & beetroot in it – it’s been a long time, GBK in London springs to mind), a few more runs at the top before heading down for a lot of runs off Goat’s Eye.  At one stage we lost Anya off Standish (this happens when four people take four different runs down) for a little while.  But then she turned up with one of these, much to our surprise.

It’s a little hard to see, but apparently it’s a vole – “a mouse with no ears”.  We definitely don’t have these in NZ; it was scurrying across the snow so Anya picked it up so it wouldn’t be hit by somebody/a snowboarder.  Hopefully it’s doing well around Trappers.

Earlier in the week, Steve had found the rotisserie & was keen to hurry summer along a bit, so Saturday night dinner was at our place for a change.  With seven people, Steve got two roasts (we had plenty of leftovers) – the beef was good & the pork fantastic.  Once again, the whole beets done on the barbecue were just brilliant.

After quite a few bottles of wine, there was still the ice-wine to go with dessert – Kristy whipped up a divine cheesecake (I love cheesecake).

Sunday morning was suitably lazy, finally.  I still woke up with the ever-earlier daylight, but quite happily finished the latest Jack Reacher novel & then jailbroke my Kindle so I could put screensavers of my choice on it.  After texts being delayed somewhere in the ether, a group of us (Joel, Kristy, Steve, Alex, Megan & Finn) eventually headed out in the afternoon for a nice little jaunt ski-touring to Boom Lake.  As we arrived at the parking lot, light snow began to fall (it did so for the rest of our trip).  Although some of snow is melting in places, there was still plenty on the five kilometre trail up to the lake.  A bit on this bridge too.

It took us almost ninety minutes to reach the lake, but it wasn’t too strenuous.  There were some nice off-camber bits for Finn & the Chariot to be potentially lost to the woods, but he survived.  It was even warm enough to just be in a single layer of Icebreaker & a light fleece with no toque/beanie.  As we sat on the edge of Boom Lake, we heard a couple of booms & saw one avalanche come off the opposite Boom Mountain.

It was only about sixty minutes back to the car, but as most of the trail at the lake end was flattish the skins didn’t come off until quite close to the end.

Back to the title story – when I went out to drive to work this morning, as I sat down on the driver’s seat I heard an almighty crack.  The front left spring had sheared in two & then managed to insert itself through the tyre.  So most of my morning was spent arranging a tow-truck & getting my rather sad looking car to a workshop.  Unfortunately, both sides of the front suspension have to be replaced (I don’t really want a lopsided car) with springs, struts, plates & bearings – $1400, ouch (oh & another tyre).  Quite an unusual failure, & a complete pain in the butt – I’m glad it didn’t happen when I was on the highway (complete tyre shredding would have ensued I reckon) or parked in some obscure lot in the back of the beyond.

Still, I need a car for the upcoming roadtrip – so I have little choice but to cough up the money.  On a brighter note, I got my rear bike wheel back from the shop today – the freewheel/freehub is so much better with new pawls in it & the whole drivetrain just sounds great (as in, it doesn’t sound).  Alex & I went for a little reconnoitre on the sunny side of the valley to see how much snow had gone from the trails.  We didn’t get near the trails as there was still too much snow on the walking paths – still, it was a pleasant leg stretch & not too cold.

Riding Diary

With a nice snowy & cool forecast up now (thanks Alex), there is some hope that it will start snowing properly soon & I’ll be able to kick the relative laziness of the last few weekends by getting out skiing.  Sunshine hasn’t opened yet – they have delayed it for lack of snow.  Somehow I ended up buying a pair of secondhand  XC skis & boots yesterday – so I should be able to keep my cardio fitness up over the winter with a night or two a week on the XC trails at the Nordic Center.

Thursday, being the eleventh of November was Remembrance Day here in Canada.  The annual parade is at a bit more of a reasonable hour than the ANZAC Day dawn parades back home – but having worked my final double-shift the previous night, I appreciated the sleep-in so only saw the tail end of the parade from Alex & Megan’s balcony – did hear the pipes & the Last Post, so that was cool.   The local rags were full of tributes to Canada’s fallen & serving troops – nicely, it’s all a much bigger deal over here than back home.  I don’t think I’ve ever remarked here that many provinces & states have special registration plates for veterans – that’s kind of nice.  Also, the plates in this part of the world are so much more interesting than NZ’s bland black on white plates.  It seems I don’t have too many pictures of NZ cars, but here’s one of the only car I ever owned in NZ – I definitely got my money’s worth out of that.  The second picture shows an old-school white on black (non-reflective) NZ plate on a friend’s Capri restoration.

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Also on Remembrance Day, our big package of bike parts turned up from Jenson.  I’ve just now got to get around to installing a new drive train, nice new grippy (can you say grippy? – that’s for you Gareth) tires, grips (they had better be grippy too) & and a brand spanking new bottom bracket.  I’ll leave going tubeless for next year when my bike isn’t just sitting around in the garage.  I’ve been messing around very briefly with trying to share the odd document on Google Docs.  As this riding season comes to an end, here is my Riding Diary.  This goes back four years to when I started training for my first Karapoti Classic – since then I’ve just kept it going detailing every single ride I’ve been on.  Unfortunately, my bike computer died so some of the distance & time fields aren’t completed.  But you get the idea – I think I’ve done just a tad over sixty rides this summer/fall.  As you can imagine, there are a lot of good memories, friends & places visited detailed there.  Not all the functionality made the transfer from .odt to .xls to GoogleDocs format, but that’s not all that important.  My poor bike has done well over five-thousand kilometres off road now (ranging from NZ & Australia to Nepal to North America to Britain & Europe to Kenya), but at least it’s not as neglected as the singlespeed left in Rotorua – only about four hundred kilometres on that.  When I sort out what OpenOffice did to all the hyperlinks I had in my roadtrip worksheet, I’ll get around to posting that too.