Hawkdun Range summit

Having spied another possible route up onto the Hawkduns, and with a clear warm day, I couldn’t not investigate it. A gentle warm-up undulating around the water race gave me half an hour of riding before the pushing started.

Across the valley to the St Bathans Range – somewhere else to explore.

I soon found this 4WD track up slower going than the other route. Not because it was steeper, but it being less-used there was far more grass to dodge or push through.

Soon enough I had a view to gaze over as an excuse to pause. Back down Home Hills Run Rd, Rough Ridge in the background.

The foliage thinned at times…

before eventually disappearing from much of the track. The ridge still looking a fair way away.

I seemed to have taken quite a few breaks as the day warmed; thankfully a light breeze picked up.

Halfway to the ridge by now.

A big rockslide took the double track down to a more precarious thread of a trail – guess this is why this route is not used by larger vehicles.

Finally I got to the ridge and could see east to the area we’d ridden across a few weeks before.

A good time for more than a snack, I was still a few hundred metres below the summit. Looking at the map the ridge promised plenty of small descents as I headed north, which just meant that there would be more climbing. I set off pushing again, pleased whenever I could get back on the bike. The surface now was mostly rock of various degrees of size and looseness.

More excellent views of the Southern Alps, Mt Cook clearly visible.

Ooh, a brief roll down on some fun loose rock before another push.

Getting there, to another false summit that is.

Starting to realise that perhaps two litres of water wasn’t enough for all this effort, I was both surprised and pleased to see many small patches of snow left from the storm up here the previous day. I filled one bottle with snow and left it to melt.

I was surprised to see a tarn on the map, even more so to see it actually there.

Finally, the summit – rather flat, but good views across the Oteake to St Marys Range.

The highest point may have been a little off the double track.

Four hours in, time to head back along the ridge in the knowledge that I’d go past the point I gained the ridge and climb again. Best get to it. Trying to get some water out of the snow bottle, brittle fracture of my bottle split it down the side – not seen that before, it must have been quite cold or just time to replace it. Still, it held the snow-water mix adequately and I was hydrated.

A lot of my riding around here is looking like this, it might be time to start thinking about a suspension fork option for this bike. Yes, there’s a track there.

My mind still boggles that there are fences up here, let alone two parallel ones. Little use now, but funny to see how much one is gradually been subsumed by the rock.

Back to where I joined the ridge from the valley, but I’d continue south up that hill.

With only slightly more climbing than descending for an hour, I enjoyed a different vantage point of valleys, ridges and peaks that I’m coming to know better – before the long, fast, loose and enjoyable descent to the valley floor.

Yup, Falls Dam, St Bathans, St Bathans Range, Dunstan Mountains and Chain Hills becoming familiar.

Back at the car with hours of daylight left, a bit shook up and having carried just enough food and water – an excellent half-day trip getting further appreciation for what’s in the current backyard and eager to explore more. Can’t wait for new bike, one with a lot more suspension, to arrive – that beat me up a bit!

Silver Peaks intro – Jubilee Hut Loop S24O

The painting, mowing, tidying and general prep for, and then the, first open home done; I had to get away for a night. With a favourable forecast, what better opportunity to pop into the Silver Peaks Park for the first time. Only half an hour’s drive from both current-home and Dunedin this is a great area for small hiking or running trips. Mid-afternoon before I could depart, I thought I’d easily make it into Jubilee Hut before dark – online booking indicated I’d probably have it all to myself.

Leaving the car, the track slowly ascending to Green Hill was easy walking sheltered from the cool sea breeze by manuka. Apparently it would take me four hours for the nine kilometres to the hut, I was not convinced that would be so carrying only a light overnight pack.

Occasional glimpses of surrounding forest – both native and exotic.

Light clouds continued to blow through, keeping the afternoon temperatures quite bearable.

Just as I was thinking that the track looked quite rideable, it did get steeper – and stepped in places. I enjoyed picking out the trail ahead as it climbed to Silver Peak, and identifying various landmarks in the distance that I had a fair idea of what they might be.

Unsure what it was I was expecting but it wasn’t so many outcrops.

At the summit in little over an hour, I enjoyed having plenty of time and daylight to appreciate the views. It was odd to be easily able to see Mosgiel, a suburb of Dunedin, but the rest of the views were more expected.

North over the Bendoran Station – there’s good gravel riding in the hills just beyond that; Rock and Pillar Range coming in from the left background.

I could just spot the private Christmas Creek Hut, but of more relevance to my walk was the track to the Devil’s Staircase which would drop me four hundred metres in less than a couple of kilometres – that might slow progress a bit.

Looking back along the trail towards Pulpit Rock.

Starting down the staircase; Jubilee Hut just visible in a clearing in the trees above the true left of creek.

The descent wasn’t nearly as tough as I was told – but due mostly to it being completely dry, I suspect.

Down a the valley floor for the last section alongside and crossing the creek.

A beautiful stretch of beech forest delighted for the ten minutes I was down by the creek, before the climb up to the hut.

Looking back to the ridge and Devil’s Staircase – not too bad at all.

Well, that only took two hours of walking to find I did indeed have the hut to myself. Far more daylight and time to enjoy the peaceful surroundings than I imagined.

The large flax bushes would later provide good viewing of various small birds feeding on the flowers at twilight.

With the water tank empty at the hut, popping down the hill to the creek and carefully balancing not-for-purpose containers on the return was not a hardship when it is as tranquil as this.

Slow to rise after one of the longest and deepest sleeps I’ve ever had in a hut, there was no rush to close the loop. Eventually I was down to and over the creek, climbing up the other side past the previous hut site. Morning dew wetting my legs made me conscious that this section of track was far more overgrown than that which I’d seen so far. Over halfway up the steep climb, the track widened to old double track and became a little faster.

Those tracks look rideable…

Sidling off the ridge to meet a small creek, trail finding was a bit more difficult as the gorse closed in. A brief diversion took me up to ABC Cave. Turned out I could have easily made it here the night before, which would have been fun – but I had a very nice night as it was, so no regrets there.

Could probably get four on that sleeping platform.

Leaving the creek as it was only just forming here, and two more nice looking patches of beech, I regained the ridge – now on the Yellow Ridge Route.

Recognising the peaks close to current-home.

Down to Waikouaiti, on that small bay.

I detoured again to check out The Gap and the view from the trig. The double track here quite overgrown by gorse, and even some spainard, legs were mightily scratched as I barely negotiated what was left of the trail.

Back along the track to The Gap.

Thankfully the views were worth a nice break to soak them in on a mild, clear and still morning.

Down to Blueskin Bay area.

I had hoped to go back along Rocky Ridge to Pulpit Rock – this route reported to have the best views in the park – but the track was overgrown enough that I couldn’t find it, and my legs were itchy enough. So back along the Yellow Ridge it was.

Ah yes, the naming of The Gap becomes even more obvious down here.

Dropping a little and then along the ridge I was soon at the small Philip J. Cox Memorial Hut – might be worth a stay sometime. The route traditionally drops down and crosses the Waikouaiti South before climbing up to a forestry road – for a six kilometre gravel road walk back to the parking lot. Ugh. Thankfully, an alternative has recently been opened.

Start of the River Track.

Soon in quite different surroundings, I enjoyed the drop to river (further upstream than the old route).

Marking of the track is still in its infancy, there was only one part where I really had to stop and work out just where the track went.

Not having to cross the river, it was nice to cross each tributary – plenty of opportunities to drink and wet my cap as the early afternoon warmed.

At the bottom of the valley, the trail was much more benched and easier to follow than coming down off the ridge.

I came across two volunteers, the only people I saw out there that day, cutting in more switchbacks to bypass a steeper section. I appreciated chatting for a while and hear of all the work they’d been helping with in here expanding the trail network. So close to Dunedin, I could see from this brief excursion what a great park it is in such proximity to the city.

Having passed them, I was on trail that had had a lot more recent attention. Some of the trail building solutions and resourcefulness were equally impressive and ingeneous.

My last little side-trip – up to Possum Hut. Unlikely to ever sleep here.

Interesting walls though.

One last hundred metres climb up the new Gold Miners Direct track and I was back at my very dusty car. What an excellent morning to complete a fun little overnight. With all my little diversions, it was four hours of walking for eighteen kilometres – somehow well over a thousand metres of climbing in there, didn’t feel like it. The whole loop would be a good day walk or run (provided good weather is picked, I can see it’d be nasty up here in adverse conditions) – but I wanted a nice little overnighter and that’s what I got. Brilliant wee outing and I’m looking forward to further exploring when I’m in the area with time to spare.

ACAL Day Four – Tailings huts to Kurow

Meeting another rider at ten, we were up and away markedly earlier. Up Guffies Creek promised nine water crossings, I was pleased they were all dry-feet rideable as the sun hadn’t quite made it to the valley floor yet. Over the last one and the track reared steeply for the climb to Buster Diggings. Either well rested, or finally getting a bit stronger again, or both, I was pleased to ride the whole thing and pottered on looking at Long Spur – scheming more rides again.

Back down to the track along Guffies Creek.

The morning sun on the diggings (alluvial gold mining from 150-odd years ago, I’ve heard the highest gold mining site in NZ) was striking. I had a bit of time to wander, and then clamber

Mt Kyeburn on left, soon…

A short distance along our trail is Buster Hut. We could have easily made it here the previous afternoon, but it is tiny (someone would have been on the floor, blocking the doorway) and Tailings Hut was nice. That is, until we were woken by bogans 4WDing in at eleven o’clock; they did apologise for waking us, and then proceeded to talk loudly for hours. Earplugs did at least mean I missed the rich colour of the language.

Over the Maniototo to the Rock and Pillar Range. Naseby, one of my current homes, in those pines right.

Across more diggings to yesterday’s big descent to the Otematata and the Southern Alps in the background.

Starting our ascent of Mt Kyeburn quickly opened up more views and tracks to ponder. Memories of skinning up here and hurtling back down (skiing down a 4WD track doesn’t give many opportunities to turn, may as well just pin it – incredible fun) and a day-ride a few summers ago. I remembered riding the whole climb relatively unloaded, so I was pleased I could clear it while loaded.

It wasn’t straightforward.

Coastal cloud. Hopefully that would burn off by the time we went over the pass.

From the top of the track.

Andy’s photo.

Time was a bit tight for our rendezvous, but I was adamant I was clambering the final little section to the summit. I think it was worth it.

Down to the Kye Burn, Danseys Pass road across the centre, our track down coming in from the left.

I think we were all pleased we got to the top. Another of Andy’s.

Time to drop eight hundred metres in no time. A complete screamer of a descent. I’m surprised I even got this photo. Again, I refer you to Andy’s excellent record of me having too much fun on a rigid, loaded bike.

I guess that’s the bottom and I can take another photo.

A short grovel and we were on the road rolling five kilometres to the pub. Unfathomably, it was closed late on a Saturday morning in the height of holiday season. Disappointing, I was looking forward to a big brunch. We met Rob, and best-sister made it from Naseby too. Thankfully with a whole tray of freshly baked brownie (which seems to be the stuff of legend, according to Andy, who was most pleased to see this trail angel when coming off the Hawkduns dry back in TTW) and some delicious Otago summer fruit. Unashamedly, we devoured it all. Goodbyes said, I’d be back in Naseby late afternoon, we were off up the pass – fuelled by brownie. Thanks Adele.

Pass crested, a short whizz downhill to this which I’d often wondered about:

Andy had somehow managed arrange access for us through about twenty kilometres of private farmland.

Looks like Rob joined us for the flattest part of the trip! Trying to find the correct track to follow the river.

The ride out was engaging and I really liked it. Dusty farm track with lots of little climbs, there was plenty of grass and the cattle looked really healthy – we got a good look at them as it took ages to get them off the track in front of us.

There was even a wee gorge to rise above.

Out of the farm, and it was twenty kilometres of flat back to our cars. Andy had done such a good job of organising the weather on this trip that even the most tedious section of the Alps2Ocean had a slight tailwind. Into town and straight to get a cone of ice cream and marvel at a fantastic four days of riding. I’ve not had many better – absolutely loved it, can’t believe all that we saw in such a small loop (ninety kilometres across) so close to home. Thanks to Andy for organising, Rachel for thinking to invite me along and both for being such excellent company. When’s the next one?

ACAL Day Three – St Bathans to Tailings hut

Offered a cooked breakfast the previous night, naturally I didn’t hesitate. Only the time remained to be settled. Used to starting by seven, that was my pick – but eight seemed much more amenable for tired riders and the kitchen. It was a good call as we were all pretty exhausted from the previous two days and we’d broken the back of the course – two-thirds done in less than half the time available. We determined to have a shorter day to enjoy our time up on the Oteake and a stay in one of its many huts.

This is the way to start another day of excellent riding, and pushing.

Well, that didn’t last long. Note Andy’s package of cold toast sandwiches for lunch (there was no shop); the manager was gobsmacked (a priceless expression) and probably despaired for us, we were subsequently offered and took the last two, substantial, pieces of bacon and egg pie from the chiller.

Finally we rolled out at nine, which was a feat in itself with that breakfast. Forty minutes of easy gravel to a brief highway section gave ample chance to look back on the previous day’s hills and further piece the geography puzzle together.

Looking considerably nicer up there than what we dropped out of fourteen hours before.

On Home Hills Run Rd again, for a change heading into the Hawkduns and the Oteake Conservation Area.

More TTW stories to be shared – after days above 30ÂșC with a lot of climbing in the sun: I came off that in the dark, got water from the water race and slept in the only stand of trees around; Andy spent the night well back along the range and was so desperate for water the next morning that bottles were filled from a puddle – that promptly blocked his bottle nozzle (ick); Rachel spent a cramped night in tiny Wire Yards Hut with no water and many other racers. I’d also ridden what we would ride this day, in the reverse direction, on a Godzone training ride of best-sister’s just after returning from the UK seven years before – that was a big day then. I was very much looking forward to spending an easier day further exploring the area.

Filling up at the water race, we steeled ourselves for the loose and rocky track that would involve seven hundred metres of pushing.

Hmmm, didn’t know that – no corresponding sign if going in opposite direction.

Quickly gaining altitude, and walking, amongst the tussocks. Yesterday’s Dunstan Range in background, St Bathans Range coming in from the right.

Mt Ida and Little Mt Ida – landmarks I’m used to seeing from the other side (Naseby).

Down Hills Creek to the Manuherikia Valley.

Rocks getting chunkier, but altogether the track was in the best condition I’d seen it – most of the ruts filled in and not nearly as loose as usual.

With a light breeze from the south, it was still warming up. I found a nice, settled puddle to wet my headwear in – but not to drink out of.

Every hundred metres of ascent was marked, a good excuse to turn and take in the view – and have another snack.

Contrary to my memory of it being steep all the way down, there were parts that were actually ridable. Small parts admittedly, but it was nice to get back on the bike briefly.

Much more fun on the way down!

Two hours later we gained the summit, but didn’t stick around as we hunted for somewhere sheltered for lunch and a rest.

North along the Hawkduns, with the Benmore Range on the other side of the Waitaki (which we’d ridden around the bottom of two days earlier) and the Alps beyond – Mt Cook visible behind Benmore Peak.

Turning onto the notorious Walking Spur track, the start of the descent (before the sudden and cruel grovel back up) let me open things up a bit before finding a big rock to lunch behind with views across to the Alps.

Yay, Walking Spur! Cue eye roll.

Clear Stream, the end of which we crossed on TTW21 as it empties into the Otematata.

At least some of the spur was rideable.

Andy founded his grungy puddle, we stopped and there was no way I was drinking from that – he must have been desperate!

Not much to look at, even less to drink.

Back on the plateau, we turned off last year’s TTW course east. A glorious day, we revelled in the vastness of the top and marvelled at the sudden deep gullies – which were thankfully avoided.

Rachel returns to Wire Yards Hut.

Andy taking in the vastness, so close to towns, but so removed – we saw one moto rider at the base of the climb, and no one else all day.

A note in the hut book indicated a water source two hundred metres down the track; Rachel was most put out to find it was a good one and she’d been so close, and so thirsty on TTW. A long gradual downhill continued, which was a pleasant change, before reaching the railway station.

That’s right, there’s a railway station up here! It’s now a DOC hut, in which I’d love to stay – alas, much too early (40 km in for the day). Surely it must have been after quite a few beers one night that it was decided to drag the old Ida Valley Railway Station building up here with two bulldozers! Yea, here it is. This year’s TTW route comes this way, it would be a great place to stay.

Outside the station/hut, so much more water up here on this year’s route – a nice pool to dip in here too.

Another hundred metre climb that’s barely a blip on the elevation chart to the last time we’d get above 1000 m that day. I insisted on the short side trip to check out another hut – Chimney Creek Hut, where the eponymous creek is but a trickle.

Very similar to Wire Yards Hut, less of a view and less exposure.

A rather flat section as we crested the last hill. Getting difficult to work out where exactly we came from.

Starting shallow, the five hundred metre drop averaged out at ten percent – so it got a lot steeper. A good track with plenty of water bars, it was exceedingly fast and exhilarating. I had to keep on stopping though as the view constantly changed – more valleys, and the mountains to the east got a lot bigger and more pointed. What’s more, there were tracks all over the place – more adventures to be had and exploring to do!

Hut Creek, there’s a hut over there, funnily enough, which is called – wait for it – Hut Creek Hut. Brilliant!

One thing about stopping so often was that Andy got in front many times to take some of his video of our trip. This meant I could repeatedly tear past him, and probably give Rachel pause with the noise of rocks hurtling around, and unusually be captured having a blast. I was more than impressed at how quickly Andy was able to compile a simple film that captures our trip in such a way that all my words here simply can’t. I also like it as it goes some way to show just why I love this form of travel and how much joy and excitement I get from riding bikes in this way – especially if I can safely get some air! I won’t go so far as to say I was admonished for getting a little bit of air on a loaded, rigid bike – but it was noted, to equal parts embarrassment and delight. (Which reminds me, Andy’s footage from our end of the field features in Rob’s film, which does a good job of capturing the first TTW – if you’re interested at all in what this race was about, or what the experience was like, it’s worth it.

Tracks galore! None of which we’d take, save that zig and zag just beyond the tussocks, rising from the upper Otematata River.

About to climb from the river – after soaking our feet right at the end of the day.

Those switchbacks done, it was a nice roll down to Tailings hut – just after five o’clock! A short day, but so packed it felt much more than fifty-six kilometres. Plenty of time for a wash in Guffies Creek, much tea and a couple of dinners. Another equal-favourite day to go with the other two so far!

History, huh.

Biking to go places, going places to bike.