Paparoa, Pike29 loop

Not having seen Rachel since her last big bikepacking trip abroad, time was running out to get the Oteake crew back together for a more modest bike trip. The weekend long since decided, the location was only confirmed closer to the time as late-autumn forecasts considered. Andy and I were keen to ride the recently opened Pike29 Memorial Track, off the Paparoa Trail; Rachel was happy to ride it again – possibly as it meant she had the shortest drive. Richard (soon off to Tour Divide), Tom (recently reacquainted with on previous ride) and Ian made up our group assembled in Blackball Friday night. The plan was to ride a loop from Blackball, to and along the southern section of the Paparoa to the Pike29 intersection, the Pike29 and thirty-odd kilometres of road back to Blackball.

A very frosty morning, we were eventually underway after I’d sorted my car loaded for two weeks of adventures (and possibly two weeks of work) out. Getting up to the trailhead at Smoke-ho was an opportunity to warm a bit, but it wasn’t too chilly – even being the only one in shorts. The climb to Ces Clark hut is one of my favourites – an old mining pack track, I’ve always found it an achievable technical challenge on a loaded bikepacking rig. I was looking forward to the Paparoa on my unloaded trail bike; the climb seemed a lot easier – it seemed to have been sanitised in parts, but it was probably mostly the change in set-up.

A few bridges early on; the entries and exits the only non-rideable parts of the trail.

Frosty at the old hotel site, around 400 m elevation.

Ces Clark hut view down the lower Grey River valley.

As we reached the tops, the breeze picked up a bit – cooling things off a little. Despite a few prolonged stops, not many photos taken (previous trips here) as I was enjoying riding and being on the trail.

After lunch at Moonlight Tops Hut, it was into one of my highlights of the Paparoa – the goblin forest as you ride along the escarpment. My lack of time on the bike starting to show – I don’t remember there being so many little climbs! With all our stops, it was about six hours before we reached the top of the Pike29 track.

From the top end, the trail starts with a somewhat unexpected climb for half an hour – at my, now, slow speed having walked an alarming amount of it. You’d think I’d have dropped from the 32 tooth chainring by now, but no – at least getting a smaller one is finally in progress. 32t was manageable when I was in some sort of bike-fit condition and I’m definitely no longer that.

More, possibly even better, goblin forest at the top of the Pike29.

All were waiting for me at the final lookout at the top of the descent.

Finally, the long descent to Pike River – which was the main reason for bring the more-fun (on trail anyway) bike today. Wow, I don’t know of a longer downhill on an intermediate, built trail in the country. Dropping eight hundred metres over seven and a half kilometres, that was fun that continued for twenty+ minutes – little effort to give, I just enjoyed the descent twisting through the forest. For the time of year and location, the trail was remarkably dry (well-built and little used so far) – only getting a bit sticky on the lower parts near streams. An extraordinary trail, both in itself and the memorial aspect of it.

I waited for five minutes at the carpark, time to rest, look around and consider some of what had happened here in the previous fifteen years. Realising, as the slowest one on the road, I was wasting time I began what can only be described as a plod thirty kilometres back to Blackball. With big, slow-on-the-road tyres and little energy to push them it was only twenty-five minutes before I was caught and fairly unceremoniously dropped. The rest of the way being character building and good training for something. Thanks to Ian for picking me up just before the final climb to Blackball! A grand day out on two excellent trails.

Macraes to Ocean 2024

I spied the Macraes to Ocean ride some months before I was due to finish working in Napier on the pulpmill’s Cyclone Gabrielle rebuild. Conveniently timed the week after my last day, it was a good incentive to not prolong the journey home too much. In an area I became familiar with when I returned from living abroad nine years ago (parents had moved nearby; also I was getting into bikepacking and riding in more remote areas), this fundraising ride would show me some new places as it involved access to two large farms. That the ride was fundraising for a cycle crossing of the lower Waikouaiti River (would be most welcome, the highway bridge is nasty on a bike) sealed it.

Grateful to Adele for a drop-off in Macraes village we were not sure what to expect; we arrived to scores of bikers milling around. Having been home just a day, my only serviceable bike was my gravel bike – I thought I, and it, would cope on farm tracks, gravel roads and then be glad for it on the last fifteen kilometres of sealed road. To our surprise, there were about 150 people ready to ride on a fresh, clear morning. Ninety-nine percent on mountain bikes, I’d say about half were on e-bikes – which was great to see as it opened up what would be an adventure for far more people. We were pleased to see some unexpected Naseby faces to chat with.

Happy, as usual, to linger at the back the crowd set off, stretching out along a straight, gently climbing gravel road. A new place, there was a new part of the landscape puzzle of the local area to fit in one’s mind. Rocks aplenty in the fields.

Off the road and onto farm tracks, a short downhill was fun to blast down before a longer climb led to an hour or so on fairly flat terrain with expansive views west to the Rock and Pillar Range. It was so vast, there was little point in trying to capture much on my phone – so I enjoyed the views and chatting with obvious-bikepackers, we seemed to gravitate towards each other. A fast section through fields of turnips soon gave way to a steep descent – much fun bumping and barrelling down it and past plenty of people. A short climb brought us to the feed station – very well put on as another fundraiser, this time by a local junior rugby club. Community events are great.

This was a good time to pause, chat and admire the landscape. I was pleased to discover we were very close to one of my favourite gravel roads – Ramrock Rd (not just because of the name), one I’d enjoyed riding bits or all of years ago.

Our track continuing across the hill behind the hut.

Food time.

Back on the bike, it was mostly down and became progressively steeper (this hill we were warned about at the briefing) to the El Dorado farm gate and buildings.

Down to the north branch of the Waikouaiti, and the end of Mt Watkin Rd – no new terrain for me from there. Mt Trotter in background, the road of the same name didn’t quite take me to its upper slopes a couple of years back.

A twenty-five minute grovel up from the end of the road showed up my lack of fitness, I was pleased to have plenty of gears and easy-rolling tyres. The highpoint being going past Mt Watkin, amusingly the only time I wished for a mountain bike over a gravel bike was on the next section of gravel road! A long fast, extremely corrugated descent shook me up far more than any of the farm tracks.

Down to the Waikouaiti outlet at Karitane, left of shot.

Across the highway, soon through Karitane on Coast Road the steep climb at Puketeraki the last remaining challenge before the gentle ten kilometres to finish at ARC Brewery with a few dozen riders – most others opted for the shorter option, ending the ride at Waikouaiti.

Always worth stopping at the turnout at the top of that climb.

A fun outing around lots of people, it was good to chat a bit more in the warm sun. I was surprised when Tom came up and said hi, I’d not ridden with him since meeting him a couple of years ago as I joined a group of people I didn’t really know to ride the Lake Dunstan Trail for the first time.

With casual remote working for the rebuild project ending last week (officially unemployed again, huzzah!), here’s hoping I can return to writing a little of recent modest outings, get some condition back and go on some bigger trips.

The Christmas Letter 2023

Time spent riding this year was always going to be down with shoulder surgery scheduled mid-year, less expected is the year drawing to a close with the least distance covered by bike in over ten years. The year started predominantly at home in Naseby around family. I kept pleasantly busy with casual work driving vans carting bikes, baggage and people around the Otago Central Rail Trail (hard to get sick of driving around Central Otago) and volunteering as much as possible on the local ambulance in an attempt to have all the practical skills signed off to complete the first responder qualification.

The remoteness of the region means we see helicopters responding far more than in urban centres.

I did manage to get out for a few small bikepacking adventures, none of which went quite to plan. After one of the best trips I’d done the previous year, I was keen to head back with Andy to the Lindis headwater area. Strange how we forgot that we swore never to return to this area with loaded bikes. Sweltering in summer weather, it was quickly apparent I was not in any sort of condition for such hills. We did manage to complete most of the loop planned and I was particularly pleased to make it along Grandview Ridge.

The every-other-year Great Southern Brevet, one of my favourite bikepacking events, was only two weeks later and I was in about a dozen different minds about whether I’d show up to ride what is now my backyard, especially with Andy’s much-awaited Nine Stations immediately after. I couldn’t face Grandview Ridge, in the more difficult other direction, again so soon – but the course was changed to take it out and instead include some private land – that was enough to entice me back.

While nice to see so many familiar faces again, it took me a good day and a half to get into it and by the third day things were going well enough – that is until I pulled up at the end of the day with very tight achilles tendons. A good rest overnight, I tried to ride away into more mountains – but quickly decided against that. A few days of rest was enough to allow a day’s ride to collect my car and make it to the start of the Nine Stations ride – but the achilles injuries plagued me for quite some time, and they’re still not a hundred.

Route-maker extraordinaire Andy had somehow got permission to ride through many private stations to put the loop together, it was a privilege to ride some new places with a good group.

Got to stay in this restored hut that we’d seen the previous year.

Dropping down to the Rangitata – TTW memories.

Far enough up the river to safely cross the Rangitata.

Unfortunately, a mechanical early on the third day meant I sat the fourth and final day out – but that held less interest for me, so I wasn’t too put out.

Mid-February I watched from afar in disbelief as Cyclone Gabrielle devastated Hawke’s Bay and so many of the places I’d come to know in the six years I spent living in Napier and biking a lot of the backroads. With electricity and comms compromised for a week, information was sparse but the damage over such a wide area was more than I could comprehend.

I’d have never thought the Esk could burst its banks to flood my former workplace with over a metre and a half of water and the accompanying debris and silt.

The end of summer saw me being support crew (at the last minute by myself) for a friend’s team in the ~week-long Godzone adventure race. It was a great week for me around the beauty of Fiordland. All the driving, planning, packing, unpacking, assembling transition zone, team social media updates, washing and drying vast amounts of clothes and gear was enough of an endurance sport for me – I wasn’t even out there doing the hard yards! Pleasing to be able to support others in their mad adventures.

Heading out onto Manapouri.

I did manage to do a little exploring of my own.

Transition zone set-up.

As my own plans to build a small house in Naseby developed, helping my friend Mike replace my parents’ roof one drizzly autumn week was both satisfying and good experience for future building work.

Old and new steel.

The rest of autumn was a flurry of getting firewood for the winter, more Rail Trail work, and completing the ambulance qualification, just, before shoulder surgery. Surgery went very well and I spent most of the six-weeks of sling wearing staying with and being cared for by Mum and Dad in Dunedin. I was surprised that there was far less pain/discomfort and swelling than the keyhole surgery eleven years before. I made the most of the mild weather by going on increasingly long walks exploring Dunedin and surrounding hills.

Out at Portobello for Mothers’ Day.

A week in Auckland near the end of the sling stint was the first time I’d been to the city for at least four years and I thoroughly enjoyed catching up with many dear, and long-neglected, friends – as well more walking and warmer weather. Sling off and it was back home to Naseby, staring at the prospect of a long, cold winter sitting by the fire reading books unable to do much else as my shoulder recovered.

A well-timed check-in call from a mate (a former colleague) detailed just how much work there was to recover from the flooding in the Pulp Mill and gave the idea that I might go up for a few months and help out. I thought three months would be good, but it was five I was needed for – so less than two weeks later I was back in Napier amongst too many people telling me it was like I never left. Things had certainly changed in two years and I still struggle to believe the amount of recovery work that has already been done and how much is left to get the place running again.

It was odd returning, as Napier isn’t home any more, I’m not living alone in my own house and everyone’s lives have understandably moved on. My shoulder recovery, with some physio, continued to pleasantly surprise me and I was able to get on a bike sooner than I expected. I’d not brought a bike with me, so it was an opportunity to give a gravel bike a try buying a secondhand one. I thought I might sell it if I didn’t like it, but I’ve decided it’s a glorified, but useful, road bike and I’ll keep it for some different exploring when I return home.

There used to be a bridge there.

Getting back to parkrun, a large part of my previous Napier life, was good to try and get some fitness back; I managed to cut the gap to my 5 km personal best in half before picking up a side strain which has halted further progress. As it happens, the work in the Pulp Mill is nowhere near complete (which rather hinders my role as Completions Manager – yeah, I’d never heard of such a thing either) so I was asked to stay through summer until pulp should be coming out of the mill again – something I’d really like to see.

We managed to agree on what another four months, and summer, away from home and family was worth – but equally I’m sticking around to see a place that was good to me and is the livelihood of many workmates and an important part of Hawke’s Bay on its feet again. Pleasingly, the work is engaging, keeps developing and very satisfying. The second half of this video gives a better idea of what’s been going on.

I’m down south in Dunedin for a week and Christmas with my parents, and an overdue venesection (haemochromatosis seems to be nicely under control now, blood letting only required every few months), before returning to Naseby for a week at home doing little – maybe some biking and ambulance cover. All the best for yours and the new year!

Lindis Loop 23 – Cluden Creek to Longslip Creek

Only light rain overnight, it gave way to another overcast morning. I was keen to take the McPhies Ridge track to get better views, but the start was overgrown and Andy wanted to take the lower Cluden Creek track so as to get home at a reasonable time. I deferred, as not my route and I’d not done Cluden Creek either.

A gentle start up the valley to begin, but my – it was humid for eight in the morning! After the gravel road ended, it was gates and farm track. Neither of us were feeling particularly energetic after the previous forty hours, but I was certainly pushing more – on the steep pinches, but unfortunately on mellower slopes too.

St Bathans Range peeking through.

I kept looking at the gentler ridge line above us longingly, but we’d probably have had two hundred metres of altitude to push through to get there. Out of the gorge into the basin, we soon found our route from the second day of last year’s trip and started following it backwards. Flatter riding was a nice change, as was a good water and food stop. We joined the McPhies Ridge Track after it dropped off the ridge (I should come back and combine the creek and ridge track as a loop someday) and continued past the fenced Pleasant Valley parking lot; only to find no vehicles would be using it after we came close to falling in a large, deep gap left by a washed out culvert.

Back to Lauder Conservation Area up on the Dunstan Range, as well as Dunstan Peak.

Heading for Goodger Rd. Andy’s pic.

What’s another twenty percent gradient push…? Andy’s pic.

By mid-morning we were halfway back to the cars and embarking on the pylon road to the highway on the other, northern, side of Lindis Pass. My memory of riding it in the other direction was far hazier than Andy’s, but I was surprised that, in the tired state I was in, it was mostly rideable. We were pleased for more fresh water – from our 2022 lunch spot no less. Plenty to look at too. Sometimes the power lines could be avoided, with a bit of effort, to get better shots.

We crossed back into Canterbury at a small pass and then diverged from last year’s route to take a more direct route – only to find it kept climbing! Oops. But that was soon over and we enjoyed the steep drop down to the highway, although the sheep did get in the way a bit. Right at the end of the offroad section, I managed to get a puncture from somewhere. A bit of air at the highway was enough to get me back to the car, phew.

That was quite the sub-48 hour trip – 6000+ metres climbed in 150 km, that’s double my definition of hilly! Considering the first evening, I was a little surprised I got round – the middle day was great and manageable, but exhausted for much of the last day. Unsure if I’m just too unfit to push such loads up very steep terrain or if something else is a bit wrong. Guess I might find out on the upcoming GSB (tracking here), which I’ve been in about a dozen different minds about doing – which is odd, as it’s the event I most look forward to. Maybe I’m over mass starts and much prefer these little trips into the hills – thanks Andy for another cracker; perversely, I can’t wait to get back in there (GSB should help with that).

Addendum: Andy’s video of the whole trip. Some reminds me of all the tough pushing, and other bits of the views and fun riding.

Biking to go places, going places to bike.