Three short months since the idea struck me, thirteen of us assembled in Waipawa to ride the first Hawke’s Bay Anniversary Tour over the four-day long weekend. 550 kilometres awaited to take us from the south to the north of the province on backroads, gravel, through a farm, on cycle trails and a short stretches of highway. Well pleased that anyone turned up at all, it was excellent to see a couple of familiar faces and meet many for the first time, after much correspondence.
The heinous winds of the previous night had died down somewhat, but as the sun rose it was still blowing a fair bit from the west under grey skies.
I had a brief moment to myself not at all worrying about anything I may have forgotten.
As six-thirty approached, riders arrived but some were still missing – just as well no one was in a rush. Ten minutes later the last of the trackers were handed out, a brief and incomplete briefing delivered, a few photos taken and we rolled out a casual ten or so minutes late.
I’m smiling as I know what is to come on the route, just waiting to see how it will play out; everyone else is doing so as they’ve no idea about the hills and are off into the unknown.
It was an easy start, and although most had cool digits – the rain didn’t eventuate. With quiet backroads and wide cycle trail, chatting was easy – so much so that I completely missed a turn. Some turned back with me to battle the wind again, others didn’t; it really didn’t matter. The rural roads even quieter than I expected, chat flowed freely as various stories were swapped. As the group spread and the strong westerly momentarily became a headwind, Pete and I settled into our similar pace. The route turned away from the wind and was never that bad. Ugly Hill Rd, followed soon after by Old Hill Rd gave us first real climbing of the route.
Before long, we were plunging down two hundred metres to Porangahau careful not to be blown over by the gusty crosswind. We’d made good time to arrive for morning tea – pie time, and a relaxed break at the always wonderful horse-float coffee-cart. I’m told the coffee is very good, judging by the smoothies and home-baked muffins I’d believe so. Turning to the east, we left town as others arrived.
Parallel to the coast, we now had a tail wind up a long straight before turning onto more gravel to Blackhead Beach. Pretty lush gravel gave us a few little hills, but distracted us with views of coastal farming. We were surprised to catch up to Debbie and Emma – they’d clearly not stopped. Dropping suddenly to the beach, a squall blew through for the ten kilometre section. More than three hours before high-tide, it wasn’t as firm and fast as on the scouting ride, but easily rideable and charmingly beautiful.
Appropriating a hose at Pourerere, we rinsed the sand and salt off our bikes before the long climb away from the coast. The following section of gravel was far more fun in the reverse direction, as we headed down towards the coast again at Kairakau. Alas, we turned north a few hundred metres short and made for the farm. That five kilometres sapped the energy from us as the shingle was wet and slow.
The rain came into visit again and things cooled dramatically; the four of us stopped briefly in the shearers’ quarters at the farm entrance for hot drinks. It was very generous of the farm manager to allow us access across the farm, and use of the quarters – five riders would stay there overnight. There was even WiFi! It was fun to check on everyone’s progress along my little route. I was pleased that all, that planned to, got through the beach section before the incoming tide prevented them; it was less pleasing to hear later that they got fairly hailed on.
We couldn’t sit around all day…
With the wet weather, the climb through the farm was now a push where others discovered what I’d try to relay about how quickly the innocent looking dirt, when only slightly damp, sticks to wheels and bind them. The views I’d had the previous month were not around as we got wetter and wetter with a front blowing across. At times, it was downright cold – as far as that happens around here.
Kairakau is down there somewhere.
However, as happened last time, once riding along the ridge in a small gully it was quite sheltered and the rain left us for the rest of the day – in fact, the rest of the weekend.
Bare Island was finally visible; no chance of seeing Mahia and the finish this time.
Riding through the farm was easier this time as I knew where to go and the farmer had moved most of the stock – which meant half the gates were open, so good! The descent towards Waimarama was still proper bumpy, more so on a loaded bike. That ten kilometres over in seventy-five minutes with quite wet feet, and our bikes washed again, Debbie and Emma leap-frogged us briefly before the long sealed climb up to Maraetotara – mostly into the wind.
Crossing the Tukituki for the second time, suddenly there was traffic and heading into affluent Havelock North was a bit much after a very quiet rural day. The long climb up the road to the iconic Hawke’s Bay summit of Te Mata Peak was tedious after twelve hours. I’m not sure it was worth it, so it may be first section of the route to be altered.
At least the summit always has something different to offer for views. Looking towards Napier.
I did enjoy bouncing down the only section of singletrack on the route, although I was in the minority. Rolling into the “village”, it was time for a big burger before the wind-assisted spin into Napier. Delightfully, two friends, and dot-watchers, met and rode with us for different stretches into town. I’d always hoped to ride to Napier on the first day, so was well pleased to get home in good company. The weather wasn’t the best, but it was far better than we’d had earlier in the week and the forecast for the coming days was friendly. I fell asleep rather pleased with how things were coming together.
I was early so popped down to Kairakau Beach to check out the camping facilities – but mostly just looked at the view.
Climbing so, the views quickly opened up as I looked south.
Bare Island came into view; but more importantly, one could see the finish way off on the horizon. It’s only another 400 kilometres of riding away, and just a few hills.
Making a break from these scouting trips.
Another horrible day out exploring Hawke’s Bay.
Stopping to distract the livestock from the view on my return to Waimarama.
Shortly after this old shearing shed, I was back on the farm.
It did afford this view – I’m sure I saw more cabbage trees up here than on Cabbage Tree Flat.
Heading out to the first possible connector – the one that had the potential to avoid the most highway.
Nor were there any obvious tracks either side.
The Waikare River, just before I got back to Putorino.
I was heading down and over the right end of this ridge, and eventually turning north and heading towards that glimpse of ocean.
Up on the ridge, looking back to the high point from which I rode.
That was a good fun drop down closer to sea level.
Tucking my car behind the scout hall, I left it under the watchful eyes of some cattle as the day drew to a close.
This toilet block looks a bit fancy for bikepacking accommodation. Also, my, every time I visit Whaka forest – not often these days – it’s grown a lot.
Just a couple of old favourites were ridden before rejoining the route.
Blue Lake was far more deserted and tranquil than I expected it to be.
The trail got a bit cut out in parts.
Then deteriorated into deeply rutted out. For quite a while, there were only three parts like this that necessitated pushing my bike.
Generally the trail was more rideable.
The main re-supply on the long course, it was well frequented.
Another bikepacking trip, another pie and packet of salt and vinegar crisps. The spring roll and milkshake went down quickly too.
The roadside foliage parted enough for one glimpse of Lake Rotoma.