An Oamaru Christmas, again

Having missed a family Christmas the previous year due to starting a new job and needing to save leave for Tour Aotearoa, I headed south for two weeks. With Adele & James newly married and in their first home, it was to be Christmas in Oamaru for us – for the first time in over ten years. Much to my amusement it was to be on the same street as ten years ago too.

Driving north up the highway on Christmas Eve.

Adele and James were very excited to host their first Christmas. It would be very different to our traditionally small family gathering, with James’s parents and sister joining up on the day. I’ve definitely never seen so many presents under a tree for our Christmas.

Everything went swimmingly – it was a lovely, relaxed day with family and the food was most excellent.

Dad testing the heat from the brazier – a fine way to be able to tolerate cool Oamaru evenings outside.

Christmas brunch.

Don’t mind if I do.

Suddenly, Don invited me out on a Christmas Day MTB ride. Wow! This is fantastic. We went up to the reservoir, where there is a great little loop.

We made sure to be back for Christmas dinner…

and dessert – which may have been just as large as the main course.

After all that, there was a couple of spare hours for a big walk around South Hill and down to the harbour. It had clouded over, but my past complaining of poor Oamaru Christmas weather was non-existent as there was too much else going on – and I’d been mountain-biking!

There’s a cool playground down at the harbour – this slide is extremely steep, I managed to hold on to my dinner.

And the swings are bike-themed!

Boxing Day we loaded up vehicles with bikes and a big picnic and headed over to James & Adele’s section of pine trees and pond on the edge of Naseby. A few of us, me included, had not been over Dansey’s Pass in years – so we took the scenic route.

We passed a few bikepackers coming off or going up the pass (it was steep!) – my mind turned to planning big loops when I start to spend more time down here with family.

We stopped at the quaint Dansey’s Pass pub for a pint in the sun before carrying on.

Arriving at the section, there was much delight as Don had surreptitiously had the long driveway gravelled – it was far smoother.

Work has begun on James & Adele’s own mountain-bike track on their eight hectares. James showed it to me; while only in the first stage, it’s a great ride with some cool features.

I look forward to seeing how it develops and hopefully helping a bit too.

Picnic lunch was devoured before we headed up to the swimming dam.

The last time I was here – for the wedding week – the dam had been emptied for winter and I rode my bike across the floor. Not this time, as it was filled again and being enjoyed by many. However, most of us went biking. I had a great time chasing James through twisty singletrack, down some steep washes, through the trees and so on.

The lupins were out in force – after finishing the MTBing, I took Dad on a leisurely ride alongside the water race and came across this patch.

After a fantastic day hanging out in Naseby, we headed back over the pass.

Where we promptly sat around the brazier again, eating and drinking with family and friends.

Thanks to all for a great Christmas – particularly Adele & James for hosting us all so well.

The Christmas Letter 2016

Once again, I try to look back on the year. 2016 has definitely been momentous in many ways and on the whole, another excellent year. I’m still loving life in Napier, my work is great overall, having my own house is fantastic and I’m riding bikes plenty (with twelve days to go, I’m rapidly closing in on 10,000 km for the year – easily my biggest year ever; half of that is commuting to work).

The year started off with a couple of overnight bikepacking trips as some form of light training. This one riding the gravel road from Wairoa past Lake Waikaremoana towards Rotorua.

I also persuaded Steve to join me on a great local ride to Everett’s Campsite for another overnighter. The hills back there are well worth seeing and riding.

That and commuting to work was basically my preparation for my Tour Aotearoa attempt. Mum & Dad came up to Napier and dropped me off at Cape Reinga – the goal being to ride 3000 km to Bluff self-supported on a new route that was a mixture of as many cycle trails and backroads as possible (two-hundred odd others were also doing this). It was a grand adventure and I was thrilled with all I saw, the experiences I had and how I rode – finishing two days sooner than I needed to, in sixteen days, overcoming some horrendous weather and slight illness to do so.

Crossing the Hokianga to Rawene – I was feeling far less than brilliant and rested/was sick for a couple of hours in the heat. I got better.

The Timber Trail in the Central North Island was a highlight, even in the early morning mist. I must return.

Much to my surprise, my favourite day was through northern Manawatu. So close to where I went to university – yet I’d never been there, the rural landscape was sensational. The hilly gravel roads were excellent too.

Another highlight was staying overnight in the remote old gold mining area of Big River; even better because best-sister Adele joined me for a couple of days.

The West Coast Wilderness Trail is also on the must-return-to list, as it’s supposed to be beautiful – but it sparked the start of about four-hundred kilometres of rain for me, so I didn’t see much.

After freezing riding up the Cardrona Valley, being blown by a storm to Mossburn and then battling the same storm (reduced to pushing my bike alongside a flat highway into 120 km/hr winds) I was well pleased and satisfied to finish in 16.1 days.

It took quite some time to recover from that; I kept riding to work, but I was eating five meals a day for weeks afterwards – on the ride, I lost about four kilograms that I didn’t really have spare!

My winter break was a week down in Central Otago for Adele & James’s wedding. A fantastic time of family, friends, celebration, beautiful scenery and good food. I loved it.

Perhaps my only bikepacking event for this season, was a very enjoyable four days on backroads around Rotorua. It was fascinating returning to an area near where I grew up and seeing it from the different perspectives that a bike and being older give.

Still recovering from 550 km of riding in four days, came the sudden (but ultimately unsurprising) news of the passing of my grandfather (the last of my grandparents to go). Thus set in motion a whirlwind November. One weekend I was in Sydney for the funeral (it went as well as could be expected), then back to work for a blur of a week, before being back in Australia the next weekend for a long planned trip seeing best-friends from Canada (who were back for a family wedding). A month after all that, it still looms large.

We stayed at Arapiles, where Adele joined me for the renowned rock-climbing (it was quite a family & friends month). I almost popped my other shoulder and swore off rock-climbing forever. I didn’t sleep much camping in the west-Victorian weather, but it was a great trip.

I did, of course, take a bike and managed a great day’s gravel riding in Grampians National Park.

Later this week I head south for two weeks with my family – I’m really looking forward to it. While generally quiet, which is how I tend to like it, 2016 has proved to have its share of momentous occasions and has been one of the best yet. I’m eagerly looking forward to next year and seeing what it holds. There are no fixed plans, but it promises to be another great year in Hawke’s Bay, exploring a little further afield, work will be busy and challenging, and I sure hope for plenty of riding, in different places, with whoever will come along for it.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year – do come and visit Napier if you’re so inclined.

Mangatutu Two Hot Springs S24O

In what may become a December tradition, I was keen to repeat my Mangatutu Hot Springs overnight ride of last year. With all that’s been going on and an upcoming week on call for work & then Christmas – last weekend was the only one left. The forecast looked fair (just a few showers later afternoon Saturday) and I managed to get all packed in an hour, with some encouragement, in the morning. However I got a bit sidetracked(ed) early afternoon, which was OK as it was so hot, and didn’t leave until after two o’clock.

I rode the same route as last year, so will try not to repeat myself too much. As I knew how long it should take me, I figured I had plenty of time; I was also in a photo-taking mood. The northerly was strong and very warm.

Looking north-east as I climb before reaching Glengarry Road.

Shortly after, looking towards the Kawekas and bit of cloud.

There seem to be a few stud farms up near Rissington – these Charolais.

Climbing more, it’s proper humid – this looking south.

Looking back east, back down the road I’m following – the hills are getting bigger. Much climbing, slightly less descent.

Nearing Patoka, the light rain I’d been enjoying got heavier. I sheltered in a small bus shelter trying to work out if it would pass. It didn’t. Putting on my rain gear I carried on.

Through Puketitiri the rain eased & then stopped. I was only half-heartedly pursued by the same fox terrier that harassed me with such speed last year. I was rewarded with a glorious rainbow.

More glorious green hills – it really is wonderful up there.

Passing Ball’s Clearing, the gravel finally started. I was starting to get concerned that the sky was darkening and I’d spent so long taking photos, that I might be a bit later than intended. Thankfully I’d stashed a bacon and egg pie in my frame bag on my way through Napier. I had that for first dinner, needing the energy – but not feeling that hungry. I was sitting around 600 m of elevation, climbing in general, when the rain came back as a light mist. It set in, so all the rain gear went back on. It was still rather hot as I was riding straight into the northerly.

The views were a bit different to last year – but I was still in high spirits, if not thoroughly wet – not for the first time that day.

I reached the top of a large descent that took me into another valley before turning off to Makahu Rd and the hot springs.

There’s only eleven kilometres left to ride, out of seventy-nine, but three significant hills to climb. The first is so steep the gravel has been sealed.

I paused near the first crest to see how all the livestock were coping – completely unperturbed would be the answer.

The rain continued as I plunged down to the only ford that must be negotiated – I got wetter feet, but at least the river was warm. Next was the longest steep climb of the day – now in dusk, it was so hot I rode up there (it goes on & on) without my helmet or hood on. A couple of cars heading for the pools passed me. Through the private farmland down to the last bridge and there stood another steep climb. That surpassed it was downhill to the campsite at around sunset.

I quickly put my tent up and somehow managed to light my small meths burner in the rain and cook dinner. I crawled into my tent, trying to keep all my dry things as dry as possible and ate dinner there. Now dry, the thought of going out in the rain to the hot springs didn’t appeal – so I listened to wonderful podcasts and was pleased at how this little adventure turned out. I remembered the delight my grandfather took in, as explained in his short autobiography, overcoming the elements when on a bike. This was hardly English cold or rain – but it felt good all the same. The rain continued to fall as I drifted to sleep.

After one of the better night’s sleep I’d had recently, I was up and about early enough under a clear blue sky. Having not been able to finish dinner the previous night, I had the strange taste of freeze-dried chicken curry for breakfast (not for the first time I must admit – Kiwi Brevet Day Two comes to mind). I had the hot springs to myself as I soaked aching muscles and cares away.

A peak of the Mohaka River from the pools – it’s not a bad spot, at all.

I faffed around a bit waiting for the sun to dry out some of my soaked gear – that worked a bit, but eventually I admitted defeat and packed away a lot of wet gear. Setting off before nine o’clock, it was straight into the steep climbs on the gravel.

Looking back towards the northern end of the Kawekas.

Back onto the main road, I went back up yesterday’s plunge – a little bit of a contrast to five photos above.

It’s shearing time, I watched for some time the ebbs and flows of this mob of sheep being herded. It was a strangely relaxing sight as the dogs and shepherds worked away. Sheep in yards and the buzz of shears were a regular occurrence for the rest of the ride back to town.

The setting may have helped some.

Back through Puketitiri, I stopped at the local Par 3 golf course for water and was a little sad about declining rural communities.

I was eager to get home and somehow managed the return trip on half of last night’s dinner and few handfuls of scroggin/trail mix. The sou-wester was even stronger than the northerly of the day before, but my legs were up to it – even if my poor stomach had no idea what it was feeling. Home easily in less than twenty-four hours, I was thankful for the escape of micro-adventures as I set about washing and drying everything. An excellent little trip – I think making that a regular December trip is a good idea; although perhaps I should check the Kaweka forecast more carefully in the future.

Australia Daze

Hardly having recovered from a great four days of riding the Geyserland Gravel Grind, on came the sudden but ultimately unsurprising news of the passing of my last surviving grandparent. Thus set in progress a few weeks of excessive traveling (compared to my now low level), tiredness and turmoil that I’ve not recovered from yet. My grandfather had emigrated to Sydney in 1964 with his family (that being my mother’s family) and never left. So a whirlwind trip ensued with late-flight bookings, all a week before I was due to go to Victoria for a week of visiting best-friends-from-Canada – who were back all too briefly.

So we Pheasants from NZ congregated at the family home, of over fifty years, near Parramatta with my uncle and aunt and prepared for the funeral. It was very hot, as it usually was when visiting my grandparents. There were plenty of photos to go through and stories to share. Somehow I’d been nominated as Pheasant speaker, so I really had to sort out my memories and impressions of a man I didn’t really spend that much time with – having grown up so far away. But I managed and the cycling connection & inspiration were particularly meaningful to me. Friday was hot again and we Kiwis wilted; however, the funeral went as well as could be expected and I managed to deliver my speech more fluently than writing and practicing it.

Suddenly, I was back in NZ – overnighting in Auckland at dear friends’ house again – and home to get through a week of work. It was a tough week and I was in no mood to drive to Wellington and fly to Melbourne very early Saturday morning. I don’t remember much of that week and within an hour of starting the drive I had to pull over for a micro-nap. All was well after that and I was well looked after, slept deeply and then got up at 3.30 am for the early morning flight.

Reunited with best-sister at Melbourne airport, we loaded all our gear (my bike and Adele’s climbing gear – heavier than my bike bag!) into the rental car (brand new – ten kilometres on the odometer) and headed west. Tired and hungry, we stopped in Ballarat for an early pancake lunch – yum! Although the extravagant amounts of whipped butter were disturbing. Some time mid-afternoon we arrived at the Arapiles – I’m told the best place for trad. rock-climbing in Australia and a small mecca for climbers the world over. When Adele found out, eventually – communication and knowledge of my exact plans were not strong – that I was coming here for a week, there was no way she was missing out. We met her friends Claire & Reg at the campground. They went for a little climb, I slept in the tent.

Rocks – a little part of Mt Arapiles (it’s more of a hill) rising out of the surrounding plains.

Sunday was a miserable day of weather, some time was spent in the shelter avoiding the rain and mist – I assembled my bike for something to do, and it needed doing of course. We popped into the closest town, Natimuk, for something else to do. We wandered, there was a fair bit of the town’s history displayed on signs around the place – so that was interesting.

A rather burnt out, roofless old shop.

Ready for launch. Oh, about thirty years ago.

Things cleared a little by Monday morning, although it was very windy overnight – or just seemed that way in the tent. The others climbed and Reg left to return to NZ. I’d heard of the Arapiles Big Sky Trail, so set out to explore that. I had a pretty easy run into town, mostly downhill and then flat past plenty of fields.

I eventually found the house where Megan, Alex & Finn were staying. Reunited finally after over three and a half years – excitement! Finn was an awful lot bigger, not unexpected, and had developed quite a Canadian accent; Megan & Alex didn’t seem to have grown much or changed their accents. Making plans for a bit of climbing in the afternoon, I left too soon and headed back on the trail to camp for lunch. The northern side of the loop was much less well-maintained and I slowed. Recent rain had both damaged the surface and really got the grass growing.

Watch for snakes. Yeah right, I could hardly even see the trail – let alone a snake.

Mt Arapiles off over the fields.

The trail actually went up a little hill. There is Mitre Lake – with water in it, a most unusual sight I’m told. The trail around the edge of the lake was extremely muddy and I struggled to push my bike through it as my shoes picked up a thick layer of mud, as did my tyres – so much so that the wheels would not turn.

I rode past Mitre Rock and back to camp. The “Canadians” turned up and we all went back to Mitre Rock to join Lincoln & Al (they’d arrived from Canberra, very excited they have an international airport now #canberrainternational; they’d also stayed for six-ish weeks in the house I was living in in Canada in 2011 – so good to see them again) for some easy climbing.

Adele was pleased to lead me up an easy route.

It was enjoyable, until I subluxed my shoulder (the one that hasn’t had surgery). In some discomfort, I did somehow get to the top of the first pitch without popping it completely. Claire followed me up.

You can just see Natimuk in this picture. I rested my shoulder a bit, swore off rock-climbing for ever (not much of a hardship for me) and we decided I’d abseil down using my good arm.

I was a bit glum and sore from almost wrecking my other shoulder, so returned to camp. The discomfort took a few days to disappear, but all is well now.

Some of the locals hopped through camp.

Tuesday morning was miserable again, so we headed into the larger town of Horsham to resupply and swim & shower. It cleared markedly in the afternoon. Megan was excited to get her hands on a bike, so we headed up the summit road to check out the view of the surrounds.

Past not completely harvested fields….

Up the hill; staged shot you say? Nonsense.

At the top, I looked at things.

This is one of the things I saw, damn Mitre Lake and all its mud again. Not to mention Mitre Rock in front of it, that almost ruined my shoulder. Not bitter at all.

After so long, there was some catching-up to be done – especially after Grandad’s passing (Megan & I only know each other because our grandparents were great friends, having been in the same cycling club in London in the 1940s). So the summit was a good spot for that, it was mostly free of the flies & mosquitoes lower down at the campground.

A perfect little ride down – interesting scenery, warmth but not the heat that was to come, no wind, no traffic…

We rejoined the others climbing at a smaller crag partway down the road.

Alex found a rather placid stumpy-tailed lizard; Finn was keen to take it back to Canada as a pet. Consensus was it wouldn’t survive the winters.

Wednesday I got up as the sun rose on the rock; I had a grand adventure in the Grampians. A hundred kilometre gravel ride, during which I didn’t see a soul for four or five hours.

Thursday morning Alex borrowed my bike; in exchange I was schooled in the ways of Pokemon-something. But there were other rewards, the best/only strong cup of tea I had all week for one.

Adele & Claire kept climbing things.

Spot the climber/sister – it gets progressively more difficult.

Thursday was the hottest day of the week, 34ÂșC, so we Kiwis went into Horsham again for respite in the afternoon.

I remembered the concept of sundowners from being on safari. I stashed a large bottle of stout in my frame bag and it was back up to the summit again – I almost expired in the heat. There were a lot of clouds, and possibly even more mosquitoes – I was eaten, some of the bites still show. So memorable for reasons unexpected. A kangaroo leapt right in front of me as I rode back to camp in the dark – quite a fright, especially after the deer the previous day.

Friday the weather was a bit pants again. After mooching around in the local cafe – we took a drive out to Little Desert National Park to have a look. We did some sort of nature walk looking at varieties of eucalypts. There were a lot of trees for a desert, in fact it wasn’t very deserty at all. #rubbishdesert

Now that the cafe was finally open (short week – Friday, Saturday & Sunday) there was a bit of a crowd of extended friends for dinner.

Adele & Claire climbed more things – I think they had a good week! Which was just as well, I was poor climbing company – no surprises there though.

Then Saturday came around, there were too-rushed goodbyes, promises of further bike adventures, the long drive back to Melbourne and arriving back in Wellington in the early hours of Sunday morning. Thankfully, good friends Elizabeth & Nigel had a spare comfy bed for me – I was over sleeping in a cold, and later hot, tent with all the wind. Big cooked breakfast too – thanks guys.

Sunday I took a detour via Martinborough for the Toast festival – a good excuse to spend excellent time with Pheasant family, eat plenty of interesting food, drink some local wine & enjoy the atmosphere.

Eventually, I made it home – rather pleased that all that travel was over. It turned out to be a physically and emotionally draining month. Great to see so much of family and dear friends, but tiring and left feeling that the distance to loved ones is still too great. I’m surprised to still be discovering just how strong my grandfather’s legacy is in my life and how that’s still influencing me now.
I was so over the travel, I’d have been quite happy not to go back to Australia for quite some time. But as it happens, first day back at work rather put the kibosh on that. Now I’m coming around to the idea, I hear one can fly Wellington direct to Canberra now.

Biking to go places, going places to bike.