Tag Archives: USARoadtrip11

family, food, history, roadtrip, travel, USA

Following (a bit of) the Oregon Trail

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Regrettably, as with a roadtrip, we had to leave Boise yesterday.  Maybe we caught it in its best light, but we really enjoyed our brief visit to Idaho & its capital. We were aiming towards Hood River – which is on the Columbia River – in central north Oregon, but didn’t want to do all the drive in one day so just pottered along.  Along the freeway we saw much more cropping, an old tumbledown cement factory at Lime, a still-operating cement factory (only one kiln though) just down the road & the return of the big trains.  We popped into Baker City, a town that had taken great delight in proclaiming from most Main St windows that some publication had voted it the most beautiful small town of America in a Best of the Road competition.

It was pretty nice & we spent a little while wandering the main street, reading plaques, looking in buildings & just enjoying the sunshine. There was also a big leafy park just down the road where we had another relaxing lunch. Further down the freeway & a bit east was the National Oregon Trail Interpretive Center – with time up our sleeves, it was well worth a look. Being the national center, it was far & away the most comprehensive display that we have seen yet on that mass-migration – we easily spent a couple of hours there reading & listening & pondering the hardship of the months endured & the landscape encountered (bits of which we’ve seen from the comfort of the car).

We’re clearly getting on in the trip as we opted for the nice easy route down I-84 instead of backroads through the hills. But there were still the Blue Mountains to get over (glad I wasn’t walking beside a wagon) before descending to the Columbia River plateau. It was clear we were back near a big river as more & more irrigation & nice looking fields popped up. Hermiston was a little off the freeway & a bit of a nothing town from what we could see (although it did have a gigantic WalMart distribution center on the outskirts – that must count for something), but it was a convenient place to rest for the evening. With a quick trip down to & across the Columbia River (quite a while since I last crossed that in Revelstoke, BC) we were in Washington – our third state for the day. The river is of course really high & we were impressed by the volume (in both senses) of the water pouring through the spillways at McNary dam.

Back in Hermiston, we struggled to find anywhere to eat dinner. But we struck a jackpot when we came across the Pheasant Cafe. Apparently more of a dance/clubbing venue later in the evening (it was a large complex), the restaurant was empty when we went in & the only guy working it was rather spookily named Brandon! He was super friendly & really interested in where we’ve come from (particularly Australia) & he cooked a mean prime rib.

bikes, city, GPS, MTB, roadtrip, travel, USA

Boise

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All yesterday’s activity induced a fantastic night’s sleep for me & it was late in the morning before we got downtown on another clear, sunny day. Set in a beautiful park, we were happy to spend a couple of hours at the Idaho State Museum to see if we couldn’t discover a bit more about this state that we hadn’t really intended to visit (I think we are both really glad that a ride, of all things – imagine that, induced us to duck east from the Pacific states). I won’t bore you with the history of a state that most of you won’t visit – but nonetheless I found it interesting. We got another good dose of Lewis & Clark history – which we got a lot of at the start of the trip.

After lunching in a nice big leafy park & wandering through a decent rose garden we headed to the historic area of downtown. We didn’t find many old buildings, but did manage to find the Basque Center. Apparently, Boise has the second largest Basque population in the States – after Bakersfield, CA, of all places. Eventually we made it to the Capitol building. Not overawing from the outside (I think the dome looks too skinny), the interior is fantastic.

It’s been recently restored & all the (Alaskan) marble inside it just great. Unlike other Capitols we’ve been in, the walls are remarkably free of portraits & other such things – this suited the place very well. Looking up, I really wanted to be going up the little spiral staircase to the top of the dome. But that wasn’t open to the public of course. With the best display about the state we’ve seen in a Capitol & not many people around, it was a great visit.

Always keen to get another ride in, there was only time & energy for a short one close to town. Miles had told me of one starting on the road to Bogus Basin (what a great name for a ski-area) just out of the suburbs. Corral Trail started with more climbing than I was expecting, but it was mostly doubletrack & not too bad. A local guy snuck up behind me, told me I was riding well & then proceeded to beat the pants off me the rest of the way up. But Bernie was great, he changed his ride to make sure I got the bonus mile on the end of Bob’s Trail that is not so easy to find. The first half or so of the downhill was on Corral & it was fast & flowy. There were plenty of little jumps – these irritated me for a while as they weren’t quite right for the speed I was going, I kept touching the front wheel down first (just). I finally figured out that loading up the front fork just on approach made life much better, I was pretty happy from then on.

Bob’s Trail started out much the same as it followed a gulch all the way down to suburbia. But one had to be careful around blind corners, as pesky rocks would suddenly jump out & plant themselves in the side of the trail. More technical, this trail was most enjoyable – even if I had to walk down a few metres (still have that fear of ending the riding component of this trip early doing something stupid). Skirting around between a golf course & some really nice houses we were all done an hour after I set off. What a great ride for only an hour’s worth of effort & so close to the city too (the trail map & markings were great – there looks like there’s quite a network of trails to be explored up there).

Driving back to the hotel through central Boise, I though I recognised a bike on top of a Cayenne at the lights. Sure enough, we’d caught up to Miles – strange parallels with our first random meeting in Fruita. We had a quick chat at the hotel before he headed to Oregon. Any energy I burnt on the ride was soon regained – we went to a nice Basque restaurant for dinner. How are they not all fat? I was more full from that meal than I have been for ages – & that’s considering all those large portions we’ve been served.

bikes, friends, GPS, MTB, roadtrip, travel, USA

Ketchum

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From Boise it was a two and a half hour drive out west to Ketchum & Sun Valley to meet Miles & a few others for a ride.  We left in plenty of time & after leaving the freeway early on, Highway 20 west curved back & forth & up for a while before levelling out & going through yet more cropping land. With lots of what I would deem classic American rural buildings it was a most interesting drive – & being overcast a lot more pleasant than the previous day’s.

Turning north we went through a couple more rural towns before getting to Ketchum. We were really surprised to see dozens of Lear jets sitting off the runway at the local airstrip. On the way back we counted over sixty-five – it was quite the juxtaposition with all the rest of what we’d seen of Idaho. Apparently Sun Valley (pretty much adjacent to Ketchum) is quite the ski-resort (first chairlift in the world we are told) & the playground of the rich or famous (Zuckerburg, amongst others, has a place here). With some event on this weekend, the literal jet-set were kicking around – but I didn’t see any that I recognised. Making do with the aging Subaru we arrived in town to have a pleasant look around – I managed to regrease my bottom bracket while waiting for the others to arrive.

With the help of Karl (our local friend-of-a-friend-squared) we decided on a loop to ride from town. It was a bit of a road ride out of town & we were all honking along gradually climbing; I couldn’t make out why I was slow. Eventually I stopped & readjusted my rear wheel (2.2″ tires don’t fit so well in my bike’s rear triangle) – but I was still feeling a bit slow. We turned off the road onto doubletrack & I was rapidly losing ground – I couldn’t work it out. Was it the 2.5 hours’ sleep the night before, tired from too much riding, being back at mountain altitude? Whatever it was, I was exhausted, slow & ashamed to be holding everyone up. Finally, my tired little brain realised that my new brake pads had taken it upon themselves to start rubbing on the disc a lot. Eventually I caught up to the waiting group, fixed my brakes & got the wheel spinning freely & we continued up the hill.

As the climb continued to get steeper, I didn’t feel so bad as the surface was loose & soon everyone was walking for quite some time (even Don, who I think showed us all how to climb).

But I was still totalled from all the extra resistance early on & it was as humid as I’ve felt it in months. We completed the climb (about 600m in 6km) & got in amongst some shadier trees on the saddle to start riding the Eve’s Gulch trail down.

Tired as I, the downhill was fantastic. Pretty twisty, but not all that technical, you could get some speed up between the corners. There was a bit of dust around, which made me a little tentative pushing the front wheel out around corners – but mostly it was a good fun run down. It was great riding with others & being able to chase a back wheel down the trail for a change. Tim, in particular, rode a good pace just back from where I’d be putting myself on the edge of control. We went through an old burn zone, but even that looked nice – just a beautiful day to be out on the trail. Here’s Miles disappearing into the trees.

We had a good plunge down before the trail levelled out & we traversed along Shady Side – another enjoyable piece of singletrack.

With one last bomb down a single/doubletrack mix we were back on the road heading into town. After cleaning up there were some well deserved pizzas & beers before Valerie & I made the trek back to Boise with a really nice sunset to watch over the foothills.