A multi-day trip down the Whanganui River has long been on the list of “non-biking NZ trips I really must get around to doing one day”. So when friends Josh and Victoria invited me along over Hawke’s Bay Anniversary long weekend, I quickly signed up. Arriving at Taumaranui Canoe Hire, we set about packing three days’ worth of supplies into the provided small barrels and were pleased to not have to put our tents up that night – a shipping container providing bunks and shelter, and no need to pack-up wet nylon after a clear night.

Weather looking good first thing near Taumaranui.

Briefing done, we were off in a van for a couple of hours, sparking many “I’ve ridden down/up this backroad” thoughts. Putting in at Whakahoro, we managed to get ahead of the dozen or so other canoes and set off down the river. With the river high, the current assisted us well all weekend and the rapids were a little less intense than they may have been. There began ninety-odd kilometres of floating down the mighty Whanganui.

The weather was kind, Friday being wonderfully warm and sunny, the following two days more overcast. Even better, the wind was negligible – only occasionally on the nose, often behind us. It made for some blissful stretches of simply just drifting downstream taking in the birdsong and native bush crowding in at the banks.

Short stretches of rapids kept things interesting, but we all managed to stay out of the water – even if the water didn’t always keep off us. Unfortunately, no photos of these fun times – it not being nearly as quick to secure one’s phone as on my bike.

We enjoyed stopping at each campground along the way to stretch our legs and eat – such a river trip provides far more opportunity to carry excessive amounts of food over a bike! How far we had to clamber up to the tent sites and shelters giving further indication just how high this river gets in times of flood. All the campsites we stopped at were in special locations – I think it became a case of, how could they not be?

At John Coull, the hut was full and provided opportunity to chat to various people we’d seen on (and in some cases, in) the river during the day. We nabbed a sweet tent spot and enjoyed snacks while playing cards and keeping an eye on the river. Dinner done and well into twilight there were plenty of native bats to watch darting around in the sky catching their meals. Once dark enough, a good number of glowworms were to be spotted too.

We awoke to an eerily misty morning. The cloud stretching down the small valley across the river particularly memorable.

A leisurely breakfast.

On our way, the cloud soon began to burn off and another enjoyable day on the river commenced.

Conquering the tricky landing, it was time for the obligatory walk up to the Bridge to Nowhere. Bit odd going there both without a bike, and twice in six months. But always a strange sight.

Suddenly, a substantial concrete bridge over a deep canyon.

Managing to embark with no spills from the slippery rock, we popped across to the true right and the next campsite – a far more pleasant lunch spot. The afternoon cleared nicely for the second half of the day’s paddle.

Camp for the second night was at the private campsite at Ramanui. It had a number of advantages over the DOC one across the water at Tieke, for the same price – gas burners, running water, hot showers, walking access to a bar (at neighbouring lodge), and quad-bike gear ferrying amongst others.

Contemplating the Matemateaonga Track start/end and whether I’d ever return to walk it (or hike-a-bike it, remembering this video), from the comfort of the lodge balcony.

The forecast rain fell early and overnight, so we got the comfort of decamping in the dry before the last three hours of paddling to our Pipiriki end. Soon we were in a long canyon that was quite slow moving – giving ample opportunity to linger and appreciate the surroundings.

At Ngaporo Campsite, taking the opportunity to work through more snacks and check the rapid below.

We’d been warned of three sets of rapids on this last stretch, that above being one of them – it was no worse than ones upstream. I’d spied a cave marked on the topo map, it demanded further investigation.

Somewhere up there, past the mud, is Puraroto Cave.

Curious mud stalagmites from the dripping cave ceiling.

Maybe it wasn’t past the mud, violently shoe-grabbing mud at that.

Mushrooms!

Back in the boats, the next rapid was purported to give a fifty-fifty chance of staying in one’s boat. I got thoroughly soaked, but my wee craft tracked through easily – water washing all over it and me. Good fun, glad it wasn’t a cold day though. With the bush left behind and now with marginal pasture surrounding us, three days on the water was about enough and I was pleased to get out of the last rapid (despite an eddy suddenly sending me off course and almost upstream) and land at Pipiriki.

What an excellent weekend and a long overdue trip down the Whanganui for me. Highly recommended, and not just because so much food can be carried!